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I am having a weird rattling sound coming from the passenger side of the engine - where the timing belt is. It happens only when the engine is cold and disappears almost completely when it warms up. It is noticeable at idle and low RPMs (it gets louder when I pump slightly the acceleration pedal). I tried removing the accessory belt - the noise is still there, so it is not the AC, alternator or power steering. Also I replaced the timing belt and all it's components, EXCEPT the water pump recently (~20k miles ago). The car has ~125k miles currently. That rattling started recently - maybe in the last 5-6k miles. It sounds like there is something is loose and rattles - metal rattling sound. It is difficult to say where it is coming from, but my guess is from the crankshaft pulley area. Also I recently removed the Timing belt cover to inspect the TB tensioner and the idle pulley for vibrations, but they were fine. Any idea? I believe it is getting a bit louder in the the last few months. I am out of ideas already. Here is the rattling sound I was able to record: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7483103...tling_sound.mp3
Hello All, I have a 2000 V40 with less than 80k miles. I'm been having a problem for the past several months that several mechanics have been unable to solve and am hoping someone here might advise. My check engine light has been coming on for no apparent reason. Months ago when the problem began, the car was misfiring a little when idling. Mechanic #1 changed my transmission fluid which needed to be done anyway, and then suggested that the problem might be related to my timing belt. He cleared the code and I opted out of the timing belt because it seemed too soon to replace it. Shortly after that the light was back on. Mechanic #2 said timing belt was fine, replaced spark plugs and that fixed the misfiring but a week later the check engine light was back. Next they replaced my thermostat. After that all was fine for a week or so and then the light went back on, intermittently this time, but still on. Today I was told that the codes indicate that maybe my oil is dirty and they could replace my oil and see if that fixes the problem. I opted out, since I changed oil in November and don't drive that much but now that I'm thinking about it, this light did start coming on shortly after that oil change last year. Could that really be the problem. Any advice? Should I just ignore it since it's not seeming to affect my car's performance (and I'm short on cash!)? Thanks!
I live on the Central Coast in NSW and travel to Sydney for work.
Now don't judge me in advance - but I listen to AM Radio in the moring primarly for traffic/ accident/ weather informaiton.
In Sydney the AM radio is perfect/crystal clear as good as FM. However for anyone familiar witht he F3 north bound run back to the central coast as soon as I get to the top of the "big dipper" I lose the AM radio to a background crackle noise that progressily gets worse the further I go north.
In previous Volvos I have owned in the last 5 years, I never had this problem. In other makes and models of cars relo have etc I haven't had/seen this problem. I have tried both manulally and scanning in the AM stations etc and it make little difference. The best I can get is ABC 702AM. And that is pretty patchy.
Does anyone else have this problem? I drive a V40 T5 R Design.
My Wifes '99 V40 is having issues with the rear doors which is proving a nightmare getting kids in and out of the car. Until last week, all was fine. Then all of a sudden the rear doors will not open at all. One side had a child lock on. The indicator knob rises when the central locking is activated and the solenoid sounds normal on both sides. You can not open the doors from the outside, or either from the inside!? The problems happened to both sides at the same time and we are getting desperate. I would love to take to a garage, but simply cannot afford too. So I am hoping someone here has an idea!
Newbie here, Hi guys hope you can help.....sometimes my tail gate locks when closing it and sometimes it dosen't, I have adjusted the bubber buffers on the bodywork but that does not seem to works either, any ideas gents? thanks in advance
My Volvo V40 (2000 year) has only done 83,000 miles. Yesterday the air bag warning light remains on after I have started the car, and never goes out. Searching here in Volvo Forum, it looks like a costly trip to a Volvo main dealer. Or does anyone have any useful suggestion as to how it can be rectified ? Secondly, is there are potential risk/problem in driving the car as it is ?
The only work done recently was in Nov and Dec. 2012 -complete front headlamp unit replaced at Volvo main dealer; then heater fan fault rectified by an independent auto-electrician. Since then the car has run perfectly until this latest fault.
I am now beginning to feel that Volvos are not as reliable as they used to be, and the V40 I have is nowhere near as good as my previous Volvo - the solid 850.
Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
I have a problem. I Have Volvo V40 1999 petrol 1.8. A cpl weeks ago i saw that my car start be smoky. Smoke was white. so i check my coolant level and oil. my coolant level was dropped less then an minimum and oil color was creamy. So i was thinking that is head gasket. so i bring my car to mechanics. They check and told me that my water pump was broken not head gasket. so they change timing belt. water pump. of course new oil filter and new oil. When i collected my car seems was everything ok. (For mechanic paid 400euro). Drive back home about 10km. and my car for cpl days was standing. when i was planing to go to work and i started my car. I saw that again its to many smoke coming from tailpipe. i checked my coolant.Coolant level was just above the minimum and color was brownish. Oil color normal. So i don't have clue what happen now. Of course i will bring back car to mechanic who was fixing. But for my own knowledge what to know what can be. is it possible that wrong coolant. or its normal. I hope so maybe somebody from you had same problem.
My four year old was messing about with the alarm keyfob on my 1998 V40, must have held some buttons down or something because now any time I try to lock my car with the keyfob the alarm goes off automatically!
Is there a sequence of button presses or something that will stop this annoyance?
I have a 2003/4 V40 1.9 Diesel and the engine seems to take forever to warm up. Changed thermostat (uprated opening temp from 89 to 92 degrees) to no effect. Fitted a second new thermostat, ran engine for about an hour and bled system from heater hose and top hose. With diagnostic eqipment attached coolant temp recorded at 92-94 degrees but all hoses were barely warm and consequently heater not very hot. Temp gauge reads half way/normal. Today completed 6/7 mile journey home including some dual carriageway, checked hoses and only just warm. No overheating problems and no water loss just doesn't seem to get hot as quick as it should. Also placed piece of cardboard in front of rad. If engine temp is 90 odd degrees surely hoses should be too hot to hold for more than a few seconds mine are barely warm. If there was an airlock surely I would have problems when it shifted. Anybody had a problem like this or got any ideas I would be grateful for any feedback. Thanks
After a long list of troubleshooting, I think I should be able to start my car by jumping the starter solenoid so I can take it to a mechanic. However, I've been staring at my engine for a bit trying to locate my starter, but I can't seem to find it anywhere looking down at the engine. I haven't looked underneath the engine yet because I don't have any car stands and I'd rather not try to jack it without using em.
Can anyone confirm where the starter is located or if it can be accessed through the top?
I just got 2001 v40. I noticed that air vents control doesnt work right - cant get any air to blow on windshield. I can switch it to blow through the front and side vents. Fan is working fine. I guess it's vacuum line issues, can anybody point to schematic to figure it out?
I recently replaced the alternator and battery in my 1999 V40 as it had been stood for around 3 months and needed both. A week after replacing the battery the alarm LED is constantly on when the car is switched off and locked. What this means isn't covered in the manual. Can anyone shed any light on what this means? Many thanks, Vigo.
I have a 2002 Volvo V40. The heating element works, but the fan is schizophrenic. When the dial is on low, it works, but then occasionally comes on full blast for a second or two. With the dial on medium, it's as if the fan is still on low, but again it comes on full blast periodically for short periods of time. And with the dial on high, it's mostly full blast, but still a little unpredictable.
From what I have read, it's located behind the passenger glove compartment. Is this a part I could replace with limited car knowledge -- but all the necessary tools? Or should I just visit a mechanic? Or do you experts think it's something else?
well just picked up my new wheels, its a lovely year 2000 2.0 Turbo with the basic volvo performance kit fitted by the dealers, the first time the dump valve went off caught me by surprise, but the car drives well despite the 150,000 on the clock, the rear suspension has been changed to adjustable bilsteins and I have got the set for the front (included but not fitted). I'll try and get some pictures tomorrow when its daylight, to say the performance difference was noticeable over my 1.8 GDI v40 would be an understatement (as it happens on the way to pick up the new one the old v40 started clunking on right turns (I'm guessing drive shaft or cv joint) Grendel
Hi i have a 98 v40 2.0 that wont start but turns over. new battery(s)fitted, tried the 5x lock unlock for reseting the immobilizer etc. On key start it turns over / sounds resonably slow and there is no immobilizer fault light showing however the relay on top of the fuse box clicks constantly, one of the reasons i suspected the immobilizer. clean terminals etc
Is it possibly just a shagged starter is the immobilizer playing up or is there something else i should be looking at?
Update: after putting the multi-meter on there isnt any power to some of the cabin fuses and the main "engine" fuse under the bonnet, is this the immobiliser or is there a feed fault somewhere??
I have a question about the standard Volvo V-40 rear pillar speakers. I would like to know the specs as in total power and nominal power in Wats. Searched googled and i can't seem to find the specifications anywhere only the price, see this link :
As u can see on the back it reads : LPBH / 130 / 19 / 115 so doe this mean that the speakers can handle 130w max and 19w nominal?
I bought a pair of Pioneer speakers that fin in the rear pillars of the car, these speakers costed me € 45,- so they are more expansive then the Volvo standard ones. They are Pioneer TS-G1321I with a max power of 200W and 35w nominal.
I cant make a choise weather to put the pioneers of keep the original Volvo speakers ( i still can bring the pioneers back to the shop and get my money back) I think the pioneers are better but they are a bit smaller and even feel lighter compared to the volvo ones.
Hope somebody can help me out here.
Ow i forgot to mention, ive put a 4channel amp in the back and im using 2 channels for a subwoofer so the other 2 channels are free to hook up speakers. Also not sure yet if im going to hook up the rear speaers to the amp.
My Volvo v40 (X reg. year 2000) has a fault on the front offside headlamp. The dipped beam does not work, although the full beam is still working. Tried new bulb but the problem persists. The headlamp fuse is OK. This morning I have been to a local garage but they cannot find the answer, even after fitting a new electrical connection box, and trying 3 different bulbs. The power is getting to the headlamp unit, but for some reason the bulb is not lighting on dipped beam. Does anyone have any idea as to the cause and the remedy ?? There are a couple of posts in here re headlamp faults, but I can find nothing in them to point me in the right direction. Hoping someone has the answer for me.
Hi well to cut to the chase, this is the 3rd v40 i have owned, this one being the bi-fuel model,1.8 2001, anyway, whilst driving one day i went to go into 5th gear and "nothing"? it does not crunch grate etc just if it has only 4gears and 5th option is sloppy and like the clutch is still pressed to the floor, i have or the garage i go to has changed the fluid and noticed the cv boot was leaking so i was losing gearbox oil, this has been changed but makes no difference, garage says i need new gearbox! is this right or i thought it was a rod or selector or something easy? Thanks guys
Morning, all. New (well old, actually) Volvo (also old) owner here for the first time of probably many visits.
I bought my 1999 Volvo V40 2.0 automatic estate last week but it came with no user manual and I'm struggling to find the right one online. I've sorted a lights issue with help from a thread I found in here but have a question about the rear wiper. Mine doesn't work and I can't even find the right fuse to check, although they all look OK to me. One manual I did find online is for eth 2002 model and points to an internal fuse box somewhere near or in the glove-box but my car doesn't have one - or my eyesight is worse than I thought.
Hi all, bit new to this so be patient with me. I have a v40 1.9 diesel sport, 2004 and yesterday the temp gauge started fluctuating. It never rose above its normal position but i noticed when I slowed down, the gauge started to drop and when I accelerated it rose to the normal position again. I checked the coolant level and that was fine. Any suggestions please?
we have had the Volvo s40 for some time and it has never been perfectly smooth while idling OK but not perfect
we changed the timing belt when we first bought the car a couple of years ago
about 12 months ago it almost died so i replace a coil pack which didn't help so i replaced the other one which solved the problem and at just over 200,000 it was probably worth changing both.
we drove from Victoria to Queensland and it ran fine until we reached Queensland when it started to misfire at the same time not sure weather it is coincidence or no but we accidently put some E10 in the tank.
we had the fuel system flushed out all except the lines and the tank.
i have since replaced leads and plugs and now it seems to fire much better but still misfires and had a look at the air filter which looks OK i think we replaced it in Victoria at some point.
has anyone had this problem before or know anything about it?
Hi! I have an 01 v40, the issue is there is a strange noise when shifting, and stopping. Also when you look at the engine while shifting, it tilts backwards. I'm not suree if it's the transmission or an engine mount. Any info would be very helpful!
I own a 2006 s40 which today for some reason is playing up. The buttons on the key are not locking/unlockng the doors and the key will not insert fully into the ignition, yet i can turn it and the car starts and drives even though the key is sitting on the passengers seat. Any advise would be much appreciated.
Apologies if this has already been covered, I could not find any answers to it when I have been looking.
I have an S reg V40 which has been causing me a few issues recently, firstly the central locking key fob doesn't work, this caused the alarm to go off constantly any time the car was started, the siren seems to be ok now and the car is drivable, however the hazard lights are now constantly on and the key fob still doesn't work but the car can be locked with the key. Locking the car with the key isn't a problem for me but I would like to be able to drive it without the hazard lights on.
If it's an easy fix for me that would be great as I would rather not drive it to my local dealer (20 miles) with hazards on. Does anybody have any suggestions please?
Hi guys been a while since ive been on here and now im on my 4th volvo so doing pretty well Just bought a v40 t4 and loving the power but could use a bit more really so would love some good suggestions for what i can do to get those extra horses out of the beast! looking to fit a dump valve once i actually find somewhere that sells a blanking plate for the recirc valve then anything else that will help it, Also just one little niggle I do have is that it turns over quite a while before starting when cold or left for say more than an hour anybody got any ideas what could be causing it?
Like i said any help or suggestions would be great cheers people!!
hi thanks for allowing me to post my problem. im in rural bulgaria and need my car to get arround car has been great had it for two years no problem till 3 days ago drove car when i parked up everything was ok pressed remote locking but indicator light kept flashing went back to car and put egnition on i noticed i had no intrum lights, no lcd fuel gauge all lcd read outs had gone,no radio cd player, no remote central locking i have checked all fuses and there all ok.
volvo 19 sport 2003 diesel car drives fine, all ok, but when driving over the slightest bump in the road . a knocking seens to come on the drivers side but i dont know if its coming from the front wheel/suspen/or steering but it seems to come from inside the lower dash. got me baffled. anybody had anything similar. or know what it is.. (sometimes its ok ) THANKS
OK so yesterday I went to the car - started up, and she was making a bit of noise and squealing from the belts, nothing unusual, I have been meaning to replace this for a while. But when I come to turn the car, its like someone has locked the steering, oh wait, yes it does turn - no power steering then. so I used the other car, when I got back I noticed the pulley was moving rather oddly, the outer part of the pulley is rotating independantly from the rest, causing the belt to come off. So this morning off to the dealers (most local parts places dont stock volvo spares - well they have pattern belts, but not the oscillation damper (ok lets stick with pulley then- no we dont have that either)). parts are now ordered, and should be in first thing tomorrow, the OEM belts are not a lot more expensive, but the pulley, wow £130 + tax for a pulley. next job to change out the pulley once the parts arrive, any tips for holding the crankshaft while I turn the nut? Grendel
I have a 1996 V40 that has suddenly started giving me a static shock when I touch the body work after the car has been driven. While this is funny to my family who watched me fling my phone across the drive from the jolt of the shock and scream out a rather bad word in front of my well to do neighbours,its now starting to annoy me and hurt. So does anyone have any ideas on why the car is doing it and how do I solve the problem. I need this sorting before I end up looking like someone from a comedy film with frizzy smoking hair after a shock. Please help someone
Question 1.. short and sweet but hopefully easy to answer before I start spending loads of money... V40 2.0l 1998.. When taken for a drive from cold start its ok.. but after stopping for shopping and start her up again it sounds as if shes firing on three cylinders... revs are there but feels like im pulling away in 3rd gear and stuggles to get any speed.. but after running for a while above 40mph it then kicks back in and speed is back to normal..this takes longer in city traffic and i worry that I may damage engine.... Oh and gas/petrol level drops really drastically (if that helps).. Have changed the plugs, now thinking on changing ht leads and coils but dont want to waste money on something if its not the problem..cheers
My battery was changed in my remote now it does not work, it was ok up until then although I had to be really close to the car for it to work hence the new batteries. However I have noticed that the red LED on the passenger speaker is on all the time when the ignition is on. The central locking works when using the key in the lock. The handbook covers every eventuality on the LED status except when being on all the time. Any ideas would be appreciated?
Hi all, my remote central locking fobs batteries have been on their way out for a while and finally stopped working yesterday. Nipped into Halfords today a new pair of 2016 batteries, popped them in the fob and it still doesn't work!
Please tell me I don't need to get it reprogrammed by Volvo.
Hope you don't mind me tapping your collective experience: I'm driving a '99 Ford Mondeo TD with nearly 225,000 miles on the clock and looking to replace it before something expensive breaks, as so far I've been very lucky (8 years / 140,000 miles). SO I need to pick a replacement Estate car with great reliability & practicality.
I don't trust more modern diesel engines to be as reliable as old-style ones (due to the increasing amount of clever and mechanically complicated gadgets applied to them) so I'm looking for a solid petrol car to convert to LPG - which is a great excuse to finally own a V40 (I love the look but always steered clear in all my diesel-driving years as I didn't want a Renault engine)
I'm interested in fuel economy as whatever I buy will be slightly constrained by the smallness of the LPG tanks in most conversions. Reading review sites suggests that the most efficient Petrol V40 is the 1.6 litre, followed closely by the 136bhp 2.0i.
Was wondering if user experience backs that up? I'm thinking the 1.6 will be a bit gutless on LPG as the usual power loss would bring it down to about 95bhp so I had intended to buy a 1.8, unless the 2.0 really is the second most efficient engine.
Whatever I do it does seem this is a great time to buy used V40s - I've seen several with less than 80K on the clock sell for less than £1000
I recently got a PM asking for the part no. for the roof rail end covers on the V40 as I got a set a while back from the dealer. These are now sold as a set of four & the part no. is 30883366. Can't remember exactly the price but think is was around €25- €30 for the set. Definately no more than that. Maybe help someone else out as hardly worth getting second-hand ones when they're that money new!!!
last week I had a minor slow speed shunt, a post office van turned right from behind a bus when I was 6 feet from the back of the bus going the other way. I had slowed to 10 mph as I had figured if anyone turned right they wouldnt see me (uk roads driving on the left - a right turn crosses oncoming traffic) anyway, there was a small dent in the leading edge of the bonnet, a broken grill and a broken numberplate. insurance assessor phoned today - £1200 to replace the bonnet and grill and numberplate - including painting the bonnet. estimated value of car - £1000 = write off. my view is - quick trip to the breakers for new bonnet with grill, new numberplate, at a pinch just a grill and numberplate. but now its a cat C writeoff (beyond economical repair) so a vehicle check will need to be done, and the car will have to be reregistered to get it back on the road. still I will get a payout - minus scrap value of the car. what a palaver all this hassle because the postman cant wait to turn until he can see the roads clear.
When I shut down the windshield wipers, they do not stop at the down position. They stop at whatever position when it is turned off. I have to keep switching it on and off until the wipers are stopped in the lowest position. Is this normal?
My Wife's '01 V 40 has 1333k mi. From normal wear driving in San Diego CA and inspected by 2 mechanics with there OK "just replace them every 60,000 mi." I don't see any safety concerns and this car is tight moving and comfortable.
What's your opinion? Are you going to change your struts and why?
W-reg V40 automatic. Hasn't had a service in a while.
Pulled the indicator stick to start a screenwash. It started. And wouldn't stop. At all. It emptied the screenwash but the wipers kept going while the pump made a louder whining noise.
Turning off the ignition stopped it - but starting again started it again. One of the headlight wipers is stuck in a vertical position (the other wasn't moving) while the windscreen wipers kept going.
My suspicion is it's something to do with a headlight wiper. But your thoughts welcome. Something that would stop the windscreen wipers going pointlessly would be a start. (It was dark, so I haven't tried stuff like fuses etc. Even so it would be good to have an idea of what it is..)
1998 v40 1.8 maf sensor location/does it have one i have looked on-line and as far as i can see there is no maf/mass sensor on my v40. i have also checked all the air intake for the sensor but still appears that i dont have one. hope someone can prove me wrong
Hello, I have a 1998 V40 T4 I bought recently but it has a faulty electronic fuel gauge which is showing half full when its empty. I've been told this is probably down to a falty sender unit which is attatched to the pump inside the tank. This is an easy enough fix but im wondering if it could be down to some sort of blockage in the tank because when I go to refuel I can only get £30-35 worth of petrol in until it starts to overflow. I know the tank has a 60lt capacity so this well below the limit and the range meter says I have 370 miles to go but can only do around 150 before I run out. Any ideas? thanks in advance.