Volvo S90 & V90 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Hi!Have had great luck on other forums my previous years of wrenching on go fast cars, now need some basic help on a V90- I am buying my parents 1998 V90 wagon with 168k. It has been driven regularly up till last year. Buying it for a third car for my learning to drive teenagers to use around town (school, sports, etc) no road trips. The good news is the exhaust is new from cat back, ans all brake rotors and pads are new. Put new battery in this weekend and fired right up, no smoke.
Have a few basic questions. I will list them to try to make it easy-
-At 168K, regular 10-40 per manual, or go synthetic or blend?
-Trans - is it a sealed system or filter and fluid need changing? Average cost to have done? Dipstick location?
-Radiator - I have a slight drip at top by hose inlet and I hope its just a hose crack-BUT-if I need to replace the radiator, what am I looking at for cost on a proper replacement? - Best source?
-Will do air, and PVC filters. Can I get to the fuel filter or best left top pro's?
-Plugs and wires - can a average joe do them in the driveway, or, like some cars, a PITA to get to? They looked buried!
-Scan tool - Best scan tool out there at the lowest cost?
-Where do I find the codes?
-Known water leaks? I found water in the driver front floor yesterday after sitting outside for the winter. It has a moonroof and the seal looks good-no cracks but I see it has a drain hose too. Likely source of the water a clogged drain hose, or, the cracked/missing windshield trim right at the base on the corner just above the wipers?
-Known issues with front end suspension? bearings, bushings, etc etc?
-Electronic gremlins?? I know some people never have issues, and other do - any known issues on this model?
-AC is dead - not a real issue, but, if I wanted to try to address it, are parts insanely expensive as I read about?
- anyone know a source for a carpet replacement if I cant the musty smell out of it from the water leak?
--last, and for the teens - can the factory radio be removed by a average joe and replaced with a aftermarket unit as long as I have proper harness's from Crutchfield, etc? No secret security codes or tools to remove?
Thank you in advance!
Dave

Hello, I have a 1997 S90 and on the driver's door the exterior handle has broken but the interior one works fine. After scouring the internet it seems that there is a plastic connector that connects the exterior handle to the locking mechanism. When I shake the door back and forth and forth I can hear something slapping back and forth in there. Now, to my know ledge you can't order that one part so, I was found I could buy the new handle in the correct color for ~$220 and that seems quite excessive. I looked around and found this. It says It works for the 960 which is the same series car. Now is it possible the remove the plastic piece (which you can see in the item's picture) from this handle and attach it to the door handle on my car which is fine except for the broken plastic part?

Thanks in advance!

Hello Everyone,
I have an S90. It recently has been giving me fits. It has difficulty starting and will not start without some starting fluid sprayed into the MAF intake.

When it starts, I must bring it up to speed very slowly to keep it from stalling out. I have changed the Mass Airflow Sensor, I have gutted the catalytic converter, I have changed the engine temperature sensor.

After installing all new parts listed above - all ODB codes were cleared and showed that all is good. However, the condition remains. It is particularly horrible on any type of hill. On the hill it acts like it is completely overheating, although there are no other symptoms of overheating.

After I changed the engine temperature sensor (small sensor just under the thermostat housing). The car began to run like it was overheating also. So I disconnected 1 side of the temp sensor. When the weather gets warm the car starts to act like it is overheating and bogs down. Again, there are no other symptoms of overheating.

Does anyone have a tip what could be wrong? When I do get it up to speed it will do 85 smoothly. I'm perplexed.

Thanks

If anyone could, would you please check the part number on your oil dipstick. It is located on the bottom of the dipstick where oil level indication is?
From my research the part number should be 271670. Mine reads 3528487. My dilemma is that after an oil change and checking the oil level cold
the next morning my dipstick level shows a 1/2 quart low.

My 98 S90 was manufactured July 1997.

I have a 98 S90, AT, with 165k miles. I was driving to work when at a stop light the engine started to idle rough, diesel, little to no power. Cranked and started for awhile then finally would not start at all. After trouble shooting and following guidance from this forum it still will not start. so far this is what I have done. I have spark, timing good, fuel at the injectors, compression avg. 128psi on all 6. I have checked the cam shaft sensor(good spark), replaced the crank shaft sensor with new one, installed used but good ECU. Still nothing!
PNP/neutral safety switch next???? Thanks in advance volvo heads this one has me stumped!

Regards

I have oil, yellow and clean runing down over the back bumper of my XC90 2005. I am sure it's coming from the top hatch, running down inside the latch adn tail gate and out the bottom onto the bumper. What is inside the Hatch that would leak oil? Has the Rear wiper transmission blown? Door lock? What else wierd and wonderful have Volvo tucked back there?

Any suggestions as to what this is would be welcome.

Thanks Ken

Hey fellas!

I am having some issues with my 98 s90, with 200 000km on the clock. When it's really cold , below -10 celcius, the car will not even crank in the park position, but will in neutral. Also, i have the flashing arrow in the dash, mode selector switch flashing W-S-E, and it will start in 3rd gear... When the temperature is warmer, it runs like a charm.

Pnp switch failure? I'm fed up of this crap lol

Ive got a 1997 s90 and ive got it up to 112 mph, how fast have you gotten your volvo?

Hi, just bought an S90 and I have noticed there is alot of oil in the coolant tank. Anyone know what the damage is
Thanks x

Okay so this is the largest of my problems. Every time the fuel level is half (or at least I think it is because my fuel indicator doesn't work either) then the engine starts cutting out, especially when I take a right turn. I think that I already need to get a new fuel sending unit but before that I would like to know what is the cause of this "cutting out" problem. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

My driver side door lock has not worked for 5 years and I am ready to do something about it! It will unluck/lock if i go over to the passenger side and toggle the lock twice with the key. But the key used in the driver side lock does nothing. I can unlock it from inside with pushing the switch up also, so obviously it functions. Just not from the driver side lock.

Also I have never had a remote for this car. If I get one on ebay can it be programmed? I see instructions for programming it but want to make sure it will work before buying.

Thanks so much! Love my "Augergine Pearl" Car

Justine

My driver side door lock has not worked for 5 years and I am ready to do something about it! It will unluck/lock if i go over to the passenger side and toggle the lock twice with the key. But the key used in the driver side lock does nothing. I can unlock it from inside with pushing the switch up also, so obviously it functions. Just not from the driver side lock.

I work in aerospace so know my way around basic tools and could get into the door panel with some direction (without destroying it i hope) Is this something I could purchase and install?

Also I have never had a remote for this car. If I get one on ebay can it be programmed? I see instructions for programming it but want to make sure it will work before buying.

Thanks so much! Love my "Augergine Pearl" Car

Justine

I need to replace the shocks all around my S90. I've never done this before and I'm told the front ones are a bi#ch.
I guess I'm looking for advise, and maybe a link to pictures, and what tools will I need. It's over $1000 at my Volvo guy's place. I'm just looking to save a little moolah!

I recently bought a 97 S90 (242k mi) that's been parked around say 2 years. I know there's going to be things to fix, but I'm trying to work out a list of things to deal with before even trying to start the car. I want to get the car started, and test it out before I invest in other repairs) Anybody have any thoughts? Here's what I've thought of, so far:

battery (duh, it's dead as a block of lead)
oil change (cheap, so easy to defend)
fuel system ? (should I drain all the fuel out of it, up to the rail, and prime with fresh? new filter?)

Any "gotchyas" that other people know about?

The last time I worked on a long-time stored car, the engine needed a rebuild, so I didn't have to ask these questions...

Thank you!

I have a 1998 Volvo S90.
Both trunk Lid strut anchors broke.
These are the anchors attached to the sheet metal support for the back seats.
I know I need to replace the struts but without the strut anchors, I'm out of luck.

I could try to weld them back on, but is there another way to make this repair?
Is this a know issues with these S90 cars? (The trunk lid weighs a ton)

Thanks guys

I need one or two replacement knobs. I think I'll have to end up buying the unit with the knobs. They seem to be abundant on ebay.
Anyone have one I can have?
also need a console arm rest in tan and the plastic cover for the rear parcel shelf brake light.

My S90 has an intermittant engine shudder. The Volvo Service deparment says it doesn't show up on the computer. It may happen every 3 or 4 days when I am waiting for a traffice light to change. Any suggestions?

Anyone have any interior parts for an S90, in tan/beige?
Console arm rest, rear parcel shelf brake light cover?
Thanks

My stereo will not take a CD into the player - Last winter I tried as I do so often do and wow it accepted (pulled in the CD) - through the spring and summer it plays but I know once I eject the CD it will no longer "pull in a new one". Any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix?

Hi Guys !
Can anyone tell me if the coil springs on a S90 are the same as the 960 ? Im looking for lowering springs for my 97 car but can only find a listing for the 960 which im fairly sure is the same car...
Any help gatefully accepted !!

The title and description pretty much say it all. The car is a '98 S90 with the original AW-30 transmission and 120k miles. I got the car with just over 100k miles, so I don't know what maintenance was done to the transmission, if anything. I had the problem with the sticking gearshift lever, so I bypassed the key lockout by shimming the cable shortly after I purchased the car a year ago and had no problems since.

Over the past month or so, I've noticed a "whining" noise coming from the engine bay, almost like a motor's bearing was going bad. It grew more and more pronounced but the car still drove fine and shifted properly from what I could tell. Over the past couple weeks, when I first back the car out of the garage in the morning (slight down incline out of the garage), I go to shift from R to D and it didn't engage... just acted like it was in neutral. I had to put the car back into park, then back to D and it would finally decide to take off. I've had cars with automatic transmission issues before, and it was behaving like there was a loss of transmission fluid, so the first thing I checked was the fluid level. Everything was topped up to the proper level and there was ZERO leakage under the vehicle. A light coating of oily road grime over most of the undercarriage in the engine/transmission bay area, but not even so much as a DROP of tranny fluid on my garage floor.

When the car decided to not move after sitting for a week while we were on vacation, I decided to try a transmission flush to see if that would get things going again. Just to clarify... before I drained everything, with the car in a particular gear, I could get it to move a little bit if I revved the engine. I.e. in D, if I revved up to about 3,500 RPM, the car would crawl forward a few MPH so I could maneuver it about in the driveway/garage.

I drained the pan, then put the car in gear with the engine running and the parking brake on and a flush line attached to the oil cooler connection on the radiator per the procedure described in the 700/900 maintenance FAQ. This did NOT generate much tranny fluid coming out at all. I've flushed a transmission before and the fluid comes out at a pretty good clip... this just drizzled out. I couldn't add it very fast back to the transmission because I was doing so through a rather tiny hose, but it seems like I should have been getting MUCH more out of the oil cooler connection at a MUCH faster rate. What did come out was definitely brown and "gunky" looking. Didn't smell burnt, which is good, I suppose. There are no codes, flashing warnings or indicators, or anything of the sort coming from the car.

I would VERY much welcome your thoughts. My theory is that the oil is not getting from the pan into the "guts" of the transmission... hopefully just due to a clogged filter. I have a new filter and gasket on the way that will hopefully address the issue. You will notice multiple uses of the term "hopefully." I do not relish the thought of dropping this transmission to try and find/free a stuck valve or something like that.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions you can provide!
Best,
-Jon

I recently purchased a 1997 Volvo S90 after years of owning a '79 Town Car. I got a great deal on the car, although it does have 109,000 miles on it. Nevertheless the only problem I have had is this darn shifter. Yesterday I noticed that it was hard to get the shift lever in and out of park. After a few times of shifting, now I can't get it into park at all. I can shift just fine between all other gears. The worst part of it is: my parking break doesn't work, and I was told that when I bought the car. Luckily, I live in a vary flat part of Ohio, but I would like to get this done soon. Anyone have a solution? Thanks for you time and help. -Owen

I bought a 98 S90 about one month ago. A week ago, the alarm was set off, now the car won't start. Everything electric runs when the key is in the on position. I've tried every method to reset the alarm (everything I've found from hours of research online). Today I got a "starter circuit plug" #3545333 bypass unit from the volvo dealership. It completes the circuit with pins 50E-50F. How and where do I install this plug....it doesn't go to the relay box. I don't know a thing about volvos. This is my first. I love the car.....just disappointed......

What manuals do you use for your v90? I haven't been able to find much of anything. What do you all use?

I've got a random misfire at idle on my '98 V90 with 165K miles.

It hasn't triggered the "Check Engine" light yet but really rough when starting it cold and always rough when it idles whether it's in gear at a light or just in park.

Replaced the plugs but the codes list "Random Misfire" in 1-3-4-5.

Any ideas before I drop $300 in coils and/or $400 in ignition modules?

Thanks, Bud

I tried to replace the starter on my V90. I almost got to the darn thing but I couldn't remove the airbox. Its a very pretty piece of metal, but it seemed to be anchored down by something on the bottom. I was unable to get to it from the bottom as there was a cross member in the way and I couldn't see any way to get at it from the top. I've since put it together without replacing it yet. In hind sight I wonder if it was something crazy like putting a socket on a long extension into the bottom of the airbox through the top? Anyone else know how this is done?

I need to replace the parking brake cables on my V90. Has anyone else done this? I have found different sources of information and I can't even tell if its 2 or 3 cables (the current ones are corroding so I think I probably only need the ones the go to the left and right wheel, not the third cable). The shop said it required dropping the fuel tank to get at it and pulling some interior parts. The one manual I found showed removing a center console that looks nothing like mine.

The driver door lock does not return to neutral position after unlocking (both primary and secondary locking functions work. Lubrication does not help. I have decided to replace the cylinder and have removed the driver door panel and insulation, the two horizontally oriented screws under the lock on the posterior door and the two more superior vertically oriented screws along the posterior. At this point I am stuck. I cannot seen any other screws to remove and need some help. What is the best way to proceed from here? thanks Londe

Greetings all; long time reader, first post. :-)

We have a 98 S90, 127k miles, have been refilling the coolant reservoir every 600 miles for the past year, finally found the source of the leak while doing an oil change today. From the passenger side of the block is a metal tube which is wrapped in that protective plastic expandable hose/wire wrap. It appears to head under the block to the other side of the car and connects above some kind of subframe which prevents getting a good look. All I know for sure is that the line coming from the block is wet and green. No other wetness under the hood, no puddles under the car, no tell-tale signs of head gasket troubles or pressure problems.

I know an oil pressure switch can leak oil when it goes bad; any chance this is a water pressure or temp switch which is going bad? I'd love to identify this part and know its function and repair/replacement options. If I have to remove a crossmember to complete the job, I'd like to know about it up front before I get into the job! :-)

I've searched the forums and most coolant leaks appear to be coming from old hoses, the plastic radiator inlet/outlet, etc. Haven't seen anything pertaining to this particular quizzical item...anyone have any ideas? I can easily snap a pic if needed. THANKS folks! :-)

My girl friend has a 1997 s90 with the 6 cylinder and when the car starts it idles fine but if you hit the gas it goes to stall out after running for awhile it runs fine, also as soon as the car starts the temp gauge goes half way up and the electric fan runs none stop even after the car is turned off. as far as the fan im thinking its the temp sensor but can that cause the other sputter issue?

I've noticed a slow coolant leak that has picked up over the last few weeks. I took off the drip pan on my 1997 S90 and found what appears to be the source of the leak. Unfortunately, I'm not sure what exactly it is, or if it is something I can easily repair myself. I was hoping someone could tell me what it is that is leaking. I've attached two pictures. The coolant is coming out of the corner (passenger side) of a a plate that seems to be bolted onto the engine directly above where the oil filter attaches. Any help on what that is and if it is relatively easy to fix would be appreciated. The first picture is for perspective (shot from underneath the car passenger side). Second picture is the leak.
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My s90 has driver seat issue - the automatic seat will not go back and forth - the left side will - but limited - the right side seems to have an obstruction.

I removed the seat to look for coins blocking the track..... doesn't seem to be that.
Are there 2 motors (one for the left side and one for the right side of the drivers seat) maybe it's my right motor that is shot????

Or maybe not. Maybe it's still something blocking the "gear track" under the seat?

Any guidance or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance!

I have a 97 S90 that I have had for a few years and loved, but just recently the transmission has gone out, and I was wondering if anyone has had similar problems, or knows about how much it would be to repair/replace. The car has 175,000 miles on it, I hate the thought of scrapping it, but one quote I received was for 3-5,000 which is more than I initially paid for the car.

Any advice out there on changing the gear oil on a 98 S90? Where are the drain and fill plug's? I looked but its tight in there, thanks volvo world!

Just bought a 98 V90 with very minor issues. Clean car all maintenance done 121k miles.

My power steering is weird no noises leaks or anything but its harder to turn left than it is right say 30-40% more effort. Car tracks pretty straight but I know alignment is a bit off.
What could be the culprit?

I also have a knocking noise coming from the front end mostly the right but the left started to do this too when going over short bumps.
The end links are shot and I ordered new ones. Can the end links be part of this or should I be looking at the strut hats?

The rest of the bushings seem in decent shape, some have been replaced with new ones others feel and look crack free.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Btw this is my 4th brick.
1st was a 93 945 Turbo
2nd 89 764 Turbo parts car
3rd 94 855 Turbo POS blew the tranny in a month so I donated it

Now the 98 V90

RWD Volvos FTW!!!!

Hi Everyone Volvo Fans and Drivers ,

Nice to Own and Driving Volvo Experience.

I gotten a Second Hand 1996 Volvo 960 Executive (Long Wheel Version) 24V 3.0L, Here is my problem

1. the wires of the OBD1 socket got loose (came out of the socket 1-6), and I dont know which wire is belongs to which number .

Now only guessing and pull the code from the unit
Green wire : 1-1-4,1-3-1,2-2-2,2-3-2,2-3-1,3-3-2
Orange wire : 3-1-1

2. Gear Problem
Situation (Problem Observed) : Flashing W/S/E, changed PNP Switch, High REV when in 3rd gear of D Drive,
Blinking Check engine Light, "Clink-clink-Clink" Sound could be heard at
transmission area. The gears i can use now are (P,R,N,3,L)

3. Very Rich petrol Smell from Exhaust, I think it is the lamda sond (Oxygen Sensor fault)


I know this is alot but truely this is a Very Nice Car to Drive in. please advise me what to do, This car only done 102,000 KM. Previous Owner is owned by Company as chauffeur Driven, and i got this car by chance .

Hey all

So, I bought my V90 last January with 120k. Now has 145k. Heated seats (both driver and passanger) did not work when i bought it. The switches light up, but no warm feeling on your bum. So I googled it.. and came up with a few helpful topics mainly regarding a relay.

***ALL OF THE BELOW TROUBLESHOOTING RELATES TO THE DRIVER SEAT, I HAVEN"T DIVED INTO THE PASS SEAT YET***

So about a month ago, I got under the seat and found the relay. Volvo no longer makes these.. so I found them on ebay for cheap. I bought 4 re-built relays. None of them fix the lack of heat in my seats. The new ones are much much cleaner then the old one I took out. The connections inside the old relay that run to the actual plug itself were brownish and smelled like burnt plastic, even though I doubt they had worked in the last few years. Anyway, connecting any one of the 4 new ones don't help at all.

I just pulled my center console out and unplugged and plugged in the heated seat switch. Still nothing. I checked under the seat itself following all the wires running from the relay plug. Everything is plugged in and connected.

I checked all the fuses. They are all good. Although, one BrickBoard post said it was supposed to be a 25amp and whats in there, and labeled on the fuse panel is 15amp. So Im leaving it as 15.

(One post I read said that you will feel the relay switching on and/or off when turning the seat heater switch on or off... NOT ON MINE lol)

My leather seats have a relay. I read somewhere that leather seats with a relay doesn't have a thermostat inside the seat cushion.. is this so?

ANYWAY... WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???

Is it possible that the light in the switch itself can still work even if the switch itself does not?

Is there some combination of thermostat temperature on the dash or settings thereof in relation to how warm the seats will ever get? Does it warm in relation to the outside ambient temp? It's almost mid November here in CT and it's effin cold in the am.

I'd call a dealer, etc.. but they ALL want me to bring it in in order for them to troubleshoot..and i can't afford dealer prices at this point. BUT, I also don't want to spend a ton of money in useless heated seat parts if it's something really simple.

ANY help what-so-ever would be extremely appreciated! I Love my Viola Volvo and want her to last me another 150k..with a warm tush.

Thanks :-)

I can't find a place that sells any kits for the car. I know the rear suspension rides on that leaf spring thing in the back I at least want to lower the front.... Does anyone know what springs I can use there or is there a coil over kit from another car that will fit....


anything really I want the height just right

and if there is any solution for the rear I would like to hear it as well

My 98 S90, although still running like a god, is looking slightly worn inside! I desperately need a new lid for the center console. And my shifter is falling apart. The heat has made the plastic very brittle and it's falling apart. Anyway.... I've been watching evil-bay for a while and no luck.

Anyone have the parts I need? Tan interior.

The dashboard bad bulb warning light turns on when I step on the brake pedal. The driver's brake light is weakly lit and the plastic portion of the brake bulb socket was partially melted. Does anyone have an idea why this circuit is drawing so much current that it is melting the plastic? Thanks in advance.

Hello,

Does anyone have an suggestions regarding putting a car starter in a Volvo, XC-90? A friend of mine brought me a car starter for Christmas and I am worried about having it installed. I called the Volvo dealership and they advised against it due to the complicated wiring and the computer system of the car. When I called the mechanic who is going to install it, he said he put one in a Volvo last week, the same model. He also said that the Volvo dealership will advise against it, because it is not a Volvo product.

Any suggestions would be appreciated? Thank you.

I was changing a burned out rear amber turn signal the other week and decided to try a set of red bulbs. Red turn signals are legal here in America. I used regular 1153 red bulbs but these were way to dull. Couldn't really see them on a sunny day. So I found some 12v red LED bulbs and fitted these. What a difference. I'm thinking of changing all the rear bulbs to LED.
Anyone else tried this?

I could find this second belt routing NO WHERE on line.
When I began putting my V90 back together I suddenly wound up with 6 extra inches of serpentine belt! Can a mod sticky this to help save others from the grief I went through today?
It was a Volvo update and they changed the belt and the routing. The new routing adds about 6 inches so it uses a different and a longer belt.

MY THANKS BUD AND THE REST OF THE GUYS AT IPD! I was stuck on this one and you guys took the time over the phone to find the info and the email me a diagram of the proper routing.

Recently replaced a 97 Volvo S90 cylinder head and could not find anywhere the position of the pistons, timing belt, crankshaft, and camshaft. After numerous tests I finally got it to work, and made a diagram of the correct position:


TAG: 1997 Volvo S90 Cylinder Head Alignment Diagram

I have a 1997 V90, does anyone know where the fuel filter is located and how to replace it? V90Pete

Over the last 45 days i have dropped a boatload of $$ into my 98 V90.
On last Friday she was running great coming back from a nice lunch with the wife when suddenly on the interstate I felt a vibration. Pulled it off and she had a dead miss
I was just a mile or so from home so I limped it in and hooked up the OB2 scanner that showed a miss in #5 so I just pulled the plug on #5 and

The center electrode is just GONE????
Here is the lowdown on these plugs.
The brand name silkscreened on the ceramic and it's VOLVO!


This is what they are supposed to look like
1-4 and #6


#5


They are silk screened VOLVO came on a Blue and White Volvo card under the blister pack.
Read on the base made in France then 906 X 9146775
I'm just sick and I now have internal damage to the Whiteblock 6 from one of these OEM VOLVO plugs coming apart be WARNED about this design guys!!

I just bought a 98 S90 that was dead in a friends driveway. It had a bad fuel pump, so I replaced it and got the car running. Once running it had a check engine light and flashing tranny light. I changed the PNP switch, and installed an new gas cap since the original was missing. This corrected all my problems, and now the car is running excellent. I hooked the car up to a scanner at a friends repair shop and cleared all fault codes. The car still has a steady check engine light, the outside temp reads -188 degrees all the time and the snowflake is lit. Im assuming these all all tied to the same problem. Anyone have any ideas? Im confused how I can have an engine light but the car isnt kicking out any codes.
Thanks!

The key will not turn the ignition switch in my 98 S90. My guess is that it is some mechanical problem with the interlock. Does nyone know what parts need to be replace & how? Thanks!

Is there a manual override?

My rear part of the seat wont go up or down and the back is stuck in an awfully high position which makes it very uncomfortable to sit.
Is there a manual override to bring it back to the bottom. I dont care if it doesnt move up again I just want it to stay at the bottom.

Mike

It's been a great car but a front tire blowing out ended its life.

I have a question for you guys out there. Should I take the $250 the salvage guys are offering or part it out myself?

I have a garage all the tools needed and skills so mechanically speaking, it is only a matter of time.

I am also tech savy so ebay and craigslist are very familiar to me.

The engine is still good but most of the body panels are shot. There is a lot of parts in the interior that are still good.

Is the parts market for these V90's any good or should I just take the $250.

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