Volvo 850 Forum

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RT Mechanics Ltd Demonstrator Car

THE PERIL - 1995 Volvo 854 T5-R



From a very early age I have always been car mad (of all types, not just Volvo’s!) and have had a big interest in motorsport etc. I followed Volvo during the BTCC years when the 850 series made it’s debut - I thought this was a great thing to show that Volvos are not boring and slow and had planned to make a copy of the white Volvo touring car at some point. Some years later, as RT started to grow, for one weekend a month I worked through a good friend in the Porsche GT 2 Lemans series for a couple of years and then went on to working in the European Le Mans series which took me all over the world with the team working on the cars before having the chance to be a mechanic at Le Mans - the best sports car race in the world which was a real treat for any petrol head - just very very tiring !!!








As RT Mechanics continued to grow and grow I had to give up the racing world and focus more on the normal day to day work. I had been thinking of having a demonstrator car for our company for some years and as we slowly found our way in the small world of Volvo modifications, I thought it would be a good route to take to show the Volvo world what we can do with these much loved cars.

I have never carried out such a big project on a car before so building The Peril has been a great experience for me. Even through the hard times its still been great, and I dread to think how many hours I have spent planning and working on the car over the last three years - all the work has mainly been carried out by me after work or over weekends - the wife has been a great supporter too which helped.

This is the story of our demo car :


Introducing “The Peril” (Volvo 854 Yellow T5-R)

When I first found the peril it had been well looked after in its life but had the usual items needing attention. Unfortunately the last owner of the car had not been very mechanically minded and had decided to drive for 20 miles with no coolant in !! A new engine and heater matrix/radiator etc was found while I planned my approach on the demonstrator!!





I am not sure the purist’s amongst you will like what I have done to the unsuspecting original T5-R but the project was not designed to make it a show winner for the originality. The demonstrator is designed to show what you can do with a Volvo that is a bit different to the route everyone else takes and also to have some fun along the way.
My first task was to look into improving the looks and general set up of the car – I fitted new wheels (I spotted another yellow T5-R saloon on the net that had the Volvo 18 inch Pegasus alloy wheels fitted and I loved the simple design so had to have them thanks to the Nordic car company), and started looking into replacing the terrible brakes and standard suspension - through a bit of research I found by far the best route was a Volvo strut brace and a AP kit for the front and Koni FSD kit with Eibach springs (which was a very new kit at the time) so was just a trial that worked out very well at first. I had also poly bushed the front wishbone arms with Powerflex poly bushes and of course the top engine mount bush. I also brought a few carbon fibre parts - a lower lip spoiler, a number plate surround, throttle body cover and a spark plug cover just to change the look slightly.



I had seen mentioned many times on the American forums that the up-rated anti roll bars were available for the 850 along with adjustable anti roll bar link rods so was very keen to try some before deciding to advise customers if it was a worthwhile modification to do. The kit arrived and I was keen to try them out - I was very surprised at how much better the car handled – it was one of the best kits I’ve brought for the car (apart from the AP brakes!).





The AP Kit gave me the stopping power the 850 should always have had - even on a standard car the brakes are not great so was I very pleased with them. At this stage I also bought a 19 T turbo and was going to use this but as my thoughts grew I decided to go bigger to see how much power I could get from the car to learn what works and what does not.

I have made some great friends in the Volvo tuning world, mainly in Sweden. I’ve learnt a lot from their approach to what needs to be done to the engine, ie chassis and brakes etc when developing a high horse-power engine. Most of their tuned Volvo engine’s run at a genuine 500 plus hp, which is a rare number in an 850 especially in the UK !! so thought it would be great to do something special with the Peril. I also wanted to focus on keeping the Peril reliable and strong - I did not want to build an engine that would break every time out and my aim is to make as many shows and events as I can. I have planned to do the Brighton speed trials - I have been going to these shows for years and have always longed to see a Volvo have a go.

My plan has always been to be 100% completely open and honest with the project as it goes along sharing the good times and the bad, and what ever power figures I can make they will be 100 % proven. I’ve always found it strange when you see people spending a small fortune on their cars and don’t have a proper bhp and ftlb torque figure with a graph to prove it! Its very easy to say “my car has *** plus hp” - but would always be great to see it proved!!


Autronic ECU (SM4)/CDI


I have a great friend in the tuning world in the UK who I caught the bug of tuning from and I have learnt a huge amount from him (Mark Shead of MA Developments). Mark has a reputation that is highly regarded as being one of, if not the best in his field of tuning mostly Evo and the Cosworth brand. Five years ago MA Developments became the largest Autronic dealer in the world for their excellent stand alone ECU’s so I thought that with what I had planned in power output this would be great to use to handle the power and have complete control of the ECU and mapping.



I knew the Autronic ECU (SM4) route would not be for everyone, but again if you look at all the high power Volvo’s in Sweden you will see them using the same stand alone type of unit for a very good reason - at this level the standard ECU is not able to handle this kind of power safely enough. You could of course run this system alongside the Volvo ECU and electrics but I did not see the point in still having the bulb failure warning light and cruise control etc. The SM4 has its own self diagnostic system which is extremely helpful in case of a problem – it can be accessed by any PC with the SM4 software. The last thing I wanted to do was risk all the time, money and effort I have put into the car to skimp on the main heart of the car. This also meant I could also do away with the air mass metre which is quite a restriction in terms of air flow and performance.

The SM4 has great features as standard such as traction control, launch control and flat shift - once a sensor is fitted to the clutch pedal you can change gear without lifting from the throttle - all of which would be an extra module to buy in other makes such as Motec – with the SM4, only a switch and a sensor is added to activate it.

I started to learn how to map the car myself with the aid of Mark Shead (the best Autronic mapper in the world and who has mapped many cars all over the world). I had always wanted to learn about mapping, but of course never wanted to tune / map a customers car before I had properly tested it on our own car. Also at the time, it was and still is a UK first for Autronic SM4 on a 5 cylinder Volvo. All the wiring for the unit was done by myself, again some thing I had never done before so at first I ran the car on the SM4 alongside the Volvo ECU’s (my T5-R was still an auto back then)!!

I read the Autronic manual and started to teach myself about how the system works and what would be needed to make a five cylinder system work. At the same time I wanted to hide as much wiring as possible. I needed to make the system neat and also accessible for if the engine had to come out.

As the Peril was always going to be run at high boost, I did not want to run into problems with a spark blow out, so due to the high boost pressures, I also brought the Autronic 500R CDI unit which removes the need for a distributor cap and HT leads so I could now run an individual coil on each spark plug. I didn’t have to search too hard for the correct coils to use - 960/V90 coils would be just fine.



Change from Automatic to Manual Gearbox

I ran the car for a couple of months like this while I sorted out my wiring loom for the rest of the SM4. I had also decided to make the car a manual at the same time as the power level I had planned would be too much for the autobox so decided it would have to go - I had only seen this done by a friend in the USA. He had a great write up on how carry out the change so a donor car was sourced and the pedal box/centre console/gear cables/flywheel/gearbox and new master cylinder clutch slave was obtained. At this stage I also added a gripper diff which a customer had wanted us to try and then fit one to his car – I was very impressed at how much nicer the car was to drive and control the power. With reducing the torque steer it made the car so much more drivable so I knew this was the diff for me. I brought a new gripper and had the ramp angle made as high as possible. The diff made a few noises on full lock but I could live with that as the benefits of having it far outweighed this.


Getting starter under the Bonnet…

After a few wiring changes the swop was made and I decided to start work on making under the bonnet a lot neater - I removed the standard Volvo wiring and mounted the new ECU inside the car - all associated wiring

The Very first thing you will need to do is disconnect the battery. Make sure you have your radio code. If not get it from the Dealer.

First start on the drivers side by removeing the the little round cap in the end of the dash.It is by the door on the end of the dash. Then remove the screw under the cap and remove the cover. Then you will see another screw that goes into the body by the windsheild. Next remove the speaker cover then the speaker. Push in the center of the clip one click then remove the clip. Next remove all the Vents by carefully prying them from the side of the vent in the middle.Then remove all the screws in the top of the vent holes.And remove the 2 screws in the hole by the speedo cluster. Next move to the passenger side.Remove the speaker cover and speaker on the passenger side.There is also a screw that will need to be removed. Next you will need to remove the glovebox insert.remove all the torxes screws around the insert. Then remove the door arms.There is a little hole in the door to slide a small screwdriver into to help remove the are. Then you need to remove the 4 10mm screw that go across the top of the glove box area.They screw into the Air bag. Remove the plug for the Air bag. Then the entire top part of the dash should come off. Then you can unlatch the speedo assembly and remove it. If it is a turbo you will need to remove a vaccum hose from the back of the speedo cluster if it has a turbo guage.

Then you can replace all the bulbs.

This it how you repair the seat back cable. I will also explain how to replace the cable as well.

You will need to remove the Lumbar adjustment knob. Unscrew as far as you can. Then pull out and unscrew till it stops then one more time pull and unscrew. The washer part under the knob pulls right off. It will look like this.


Then you will need to cut the 4 metal hogrings in the seam where the front and back of the leather meet.





Also you will have to remove the seat switch panel. When you do so on the back of the panel there should be a red plastic clip. Install that where I have shown in the picture. Failure to do so may cause the seat air bag to go off if that metal piece is hit while messing with the seat. If your clip is missing find something plastic fairly thick to install there.


Sometimes it is easiest to get to them from the back seat area.
Next unfold the leather from the plastic pieces on the ends. There is little hooks that hold the leather.



Next start sliding the leather up the seat back slowly and carefully. There is 4 more hog rings you will need to cut. In the picture they are located in the little holes you see where the metal rod is. They go around the metal rod in the leather and to the rod in the foam.



Also while sliding the leather up you will have to unhook little hooks from the back side that help keep the leather tight around the rear pocket of the seat.



The white stuff in the middle is the heating element for the seat heaters.

Once you get the leather this high look from the back of the seat. You will see the motor and transmisson.
If you choose to try to repair the cable you will need to heat the metal in either the transmission or motor and slide the plastic parrt of the cable in. Then while holding it move the switch and make sure the cable grabs. Sometimes you will have to do both sides at the motor and transmission. I had to do both on both of my cars. I did this today thats where this post is coming from.



Before repairing the cable.



After repairing the cable.



Before repair at transmission



After repair.

If you want to replace the cable you will have to slide the big plastic piece off the inside to remove the screws holding the transmission to the seat. Also remove the clip on the rod to slide the transmission out to gain access to the screws to remove the cable. Remove the screws in the motor from the retainer to get the cable out and replace the cable.

Install everything in reverse order.

Hope this helps someone out there.

Tightening torques apply to lubricated screws and nuts. Lubricate degreased components prior to installation.

COMPONENTS - NM
Exhaust manifold, cylinder head side - 24
Exhaust manifold - heat shield(Turbocharger (TC)) - 20
(Other) - 15
Exhaust pipe - turbocharger (TC)(stud screw) - 20
(lock nut) - 25
Exhaust system, front / rear pipe - 25
Exhaust system, pipe to exhaust manifold(stud screw) - 25
(nut) - 30
Fuel rail - 10
Cylinder head
stage 1 - 20
stage 2 - 60
stage 3 - 130°
Intake pipe - 17
Camshaft carrier cover - 17
Camshaft pulley - 20
Timing belt, idler pulley - 24
Timing belt, tensioner damping unit - 24
Timing belt, tension pulley (1992-1993) - 40
(1994) - 30
Knock sensor (KS) - 20
Radiator - 30
Coolant pump - 20
Carrier plate
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 50°
Torque control arm
stage 1 - 50
stage 2 - 90°
Torque converter ........ - 50
Oil trap - 15
Oil plug (to oil pan) - 35
Oil pump - 10
Oil pressure switch - 25
Screw for cover, piston cooling - 17
Flywheel
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 65°
Vibration damper, centre nut - 180
Vibration damper flanged screw
stage 1 - 25
stage 2 - 30°
Throttle spindles, intake manifold - 1
Spark plug (do not lubricate) - 25

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.


Hope this helps someone.

i changed it last night with my dad cuz the old one was really messed up on the left and my dad said that if he pulled it any more that it would crack. so he left it and we've been driving with the left wheel a little towards teh rear. now we got one for really cheap at teh junk yard a changed it.

but there is one small thing. we also put on the junkyard control arms. they were different from the ones we had but the wheel sits the same. i looked it up and i found that the wagon and sedan had different ones. do you think that i should put the original ones back on? the original is one solid piece. the sedan ones are not. the end(i'm not sure what its called) is held on by three bolts. i'll take pictures to explain better.

oh and if anyone wants pictures of how we set everything up, i'll post them. or i'll do it anyways later. i just dont think that this is a very common part that gets replaced...

OK, this probably is late.

I've also had PMs telling me to start with this already. So, let's start... But I want to keep this thread direct to the point, so if anyone has any suggestions, please put it in. Or if you want to PM me, I will give the credit where it is due (no worries on that) and provide sources of information as well. Outright web-links however are discouraged.

(I know this was available in the past in some other forums, but since some of them have blocked views to memberships only, let's help to keep this information free-flowing...) -> Afterall, what good is internet in the firstplace, eh?

Please note however, that I reserve the right to EDIT posts that i think are inaccurate, and DELETE any posts that I think are irrelevant without giving any notification. So, please be wary of what is written.

Thanks!






P/S:
If you're quoting directly from another source, at least, try to just give the gist of the message out...

Ok - So I just purchased a 1998 S70 and prior to purchase I took it for a thorough inspection at my Volvo mechanic. He was very interested in my 1995 Black T5R w/ 144K miles, even though I told him there was plenty wrong with her. He hasn't even seen her yet.....He wants me to come up with a price - and he also wants to check her out. I have NO IDEA what to ask for her - so I was looking for some help. I will list what is wrong with her - and then maybe someone can get me in the right direction. remember, he is a Volvo mechanic at an independent Volvo shop.

No AC - was not dye tested. Was charged and ran cold for a little over a day.
Needs a new drivers seat belt
Missing on all cylinders (I was told by another mechanic that a tune-up would probably clear these codes)
Code 154 - EGR Flow is too High
Code 232 Long term Fuel Trim at limits at idle
Code 315 - Evap System
Makes a clicking when I am turning hard left - heard this could be fixed for a few hundred...I forgot what I was told it was.

Headliner is in bad shape
Have to jiggle key to get her in reverse - interior lights do not work (have no idea if its just a fuse)
Other minor interior issues (ashtray is stunk in open position, a piece of the shifter cracked off)

For a Volvo mechanic who has access to no labor and parts at cost, what is a fair asking price?

Heather

Good tips!
Hard to find, indeed.

Thanks to Volgrrr...

First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.

Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug or a Yellow with a Purple pull tab to release. It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Then you will see the Dash Mounting Tabs on the back of the Dash.
This is what I would use to repair the Tabs. They call it Piping strap.I have a picture posted at the bottom of the post.
What you will do is cut a piece that will go up and over the tab that you can screw on each side. You will need to screw it over the clips that are there with the threads.Make sure you get it as tight as you can. Then when you got them all secured before installing make sure you install either a piece of Duct tape or Felt tape over the Tab and strap. This way you know it won't squeek or anything like that.

Then reinstall the dash.

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

The other day I slammed the glove box shut as normal, and yesterday when I went to get something out, the catch wasnt working. well what to do - After a good 20 minute struggle and by pulling the screws through on the actual shelf unit, I managed to detach the 2 screws holding the hook part to the dash, upon disassembling the catch it was obvious that two pins on the universal coupling connecting to the catch had broken.
the fix - to replace the pins with two 3.5mmx25 self tapping screws. two holes 2.5mm dia were drilled, and two self tappers were screwed into the holes, they were cut at the same length as the originals with a grinding disc on a dremel drill. the whole assembly was rebuilt and is working perfectly.
Grendel

So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while.
The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.

I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.

This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.

The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?

What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor?
Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?

Help me out here, guys! Send me some thoughts on this!
Pinning this problem would make this the only Volvo site on the net that has a real cure for the problem!

This is how I do it with minimal damage.Push down on the top of the door and look in the middle.You should be able to see where the metal latch comes out of the dash.You need to get in there with a screwdriver and start breaking small peices out of the glove box insert in the dash.Start from the metal latch and work out.You will expose the 2 screws that hold the latch in.When you have enough plastic broke you can use a philips screwdriver to remove the screws.Then the door will open.Then you will have to take the door apart to finish opening the latch.The only damage left when you are done is a little plastic broke behind the glovebox door.You don't even have to replace the insert for the glove box.You will just have to buy the door latch kit.

I have inserted some pics to help.The blue area is what needs to be removed.
Hope this helps.

Once compressor is off set it like the following pic and remove the 10mm screw in the middle of the pulley.

Then carefully remove the outer part of the Clutch.(There is a special tool which I didn't have I used to screw drivers but be careful)


Then either the shims will come out with the outer peice like mine did or they will be sitting on the shaft once the outer part is removed.



If you look closely the washers/shims are different thicknesses. You will need to Measure the thickness and then find one a little thinner and reinstall and check the Gap between the outer and inner part of the clutch.
I will have to find out the exact specs but I believe it needs to be .016 Cannot be more than .020.
Use a fueller gauge to measure the gap.

My 850 has the HT-259 audio system, the back 4 speakers work, but the front 4 speakers don't do anything. Does anyone know where I can get new front speakers for the HT-259 audio system?

I posted this before but did not get any feedback so I am going to try again...

I have a 1997 Volvo 850 with 120,000 miles on it. I understand that the P0455 is a EVAP leak and most often the issue is the gas cap.

However, the check engine light only comes on every two weeks or so (and the gas cap is on/fine - we make sure it clicks numerous times). I disconnect the battery for a few moments and the CEL is OFF for another two weeks. The car does not get driven that much and the light only comes on once in awhile. If I fill up (and tighten the gas cap) it may be fine for 5 days or even a few weeks and then come on.

I have read you can smoke test it, etc. However, I am curious as to whether anybody has any input - again, my big question is why this would only happen every two weeks or so? If there is a leak, then it should come on right away, right??? I don't smell any gas and the car does not drive differently.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hi Forum members,

I am the proud owner of a lovely 850 '96 TDI manual CD spec and am currently running out of ideas on how to get a new remote reprogrammed. It's got the factory Volvo Guard II system with the two light grey "fatter & thinner" remote buttons.

From the outset, I need to make it clear that I'm familiar with the "5-turns" procedure and have been trying it several times over the last 48hrs.

A little background that may/may not be pertinent to diagnosis:- I had noted that the remote (I only possess one) was becoming intermittent in operation, so decided that new remote batteries may cure the problem. Around about the same time and unknowingly I had inadvertently left the bonnet (hood) on its safety catch and driven off. Subsequently pulled over and slammed the bonnet securely shut and continued back home and locked the car on the remote - all okay.

Tried to open it by remote the following day - nothing. Long-story-short... tried new batteries in old remote to no avail. So, invested in a pair of new remotes - one of each frequency (there are two frequencies, and I reliably informed that depending on which way the wind blew, determined what Volvo fitted to your car!), however I cannot programme either.

The thing is, the alarm sounds as soon as I open drivers door or reach through the open window and try the programming sequence from outside the car. I can only ever try to programme the remotes whilst the alarm is sounding and that I presume is going to confuse the issue? I have disconnected the car battery after a number of attempts to "clear things" just in case the module has got confused. Still no joy!

Before I book it in with the Volvo main dealer and, as they stated.. "go through the glovebox" with their diagnostics (is it VIDIA on a 1996 850? I did query it with them.)

Please note.... Car is currently immobile with LED flashing on dash, and alarm sounds as soon as you open anything. Central locking is working fine on key and when you press door button down, it stays down suggesting boot (trunk) and bonnet (hood) closing sensors are fine. Fuses 15 and 32 and fine. I've turned the coutesy interior light to OFF.

So, any thoughts/advice from the community would be welcome.

Regards,
apprentice3

Hi there everyone, I am attempting to update some of my speakers in my 1997 Volvo 850. My goal was to just only put in four new speakers in total. The passenger side (1) the driver side (2) and the two far back speakers found on the sedan version of the car (3,4.) I have already purchased the four speakers I wish to put into my car, but after reading some other forums about how Volvo's are strange I am just a bit worried.

Since I don't have much money I'm really only trying to replace those four. I don't want to replace either the head unit or the amp and I just want to make sure it's possible and that the car will be able to handle it and not set on fire. I would replace the head unit and the amp if I had more money. But sadly my finances don't agree with me.

I've posted below some of the general information about the speakers I have purchased along with a direct link to the manufactures website to show the specific speakers. If anyone could help me out that would be wonderful. I am new to understanding car speakers, ohms, and all that good stuff.

Thank's so much for your time!


Here are the speakers I have purchased.

Pair of driver side and passenger side door.
JBL 5.25
Size 5-1/4
Nominal Impedance 2 ohms
Power Handling (Peak) 135W

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/...ularProductOnly


-----------------------------

Pair of far back speakers (On trunk of Sedan)

Size 6" x 9"
Power Handling (Peak) 300W
Power Handling (RMS) 100W
Nominal Impedance 2ohms
http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/...ularProductOnly


There is also quit a bit of information on the sites as well if you feel like looking. I appreciate it!

5/20/08 UPDATE: I now have pictures for most everything. I have smaller pictures for easy initial viewing, but are not so great for seeing specifics, but also included are large pictures with notes. Due to the number of pictures and size of some of them I have just made up a quick webpage explaining most everything along with the photos. The link is here:

Stereo Upgrade Info With Photos
if the link doesnt work, use this address:
http://www.blakbyrd.com/Car/index.html

Everything below is the same ole original post:

Over the past month or so I have been working on doing a complete stereo system upgrade, and have been doing some online research of what will fit where in an 850. As such I have come across alot of conflicting information, from what head units will fit, to what speaker sizes to use in place of the OEM speakers, etc. I have also come across quite a few site with posts from people asking these questions (some getting good responses, others bad, and some just plain confusing).

So, I figured I would add a little more comprehensive post here, regarding what I have found to work, as well a to give the specifics of what I used and what was necessary to make it all work.

Below are some specifics on what will fit where in an 850 wagon (mine is a 1995 turbo model). I have read that some of the wiring (for the head unit) is different on a 1993 model, so I am not going to initially mention actual wiring or wiring colors, etc, because this may cause some confusion and possible improper wiring (the diagram I did find for a 1995 was entirely backwards from what they said but all was correct color wise at least). I will mention some specifics on speaker and wiring specifications at the end, which you should keep in mine when replacing the OEM ones.

Head Unit: My stock stereo wa a double din unit (4" tall), and had plenty of depth behind it to mount any standard double din unit into it with little problem. As such I purchased a Kenwood DDX-7019 double din 7" touch screen unit (DVD player, with navigation capabilities, TV tuner, Ipod, etc). It's mounting size and depth was nearly identical to the OEM stereo that was in mine. However, mounting a factory double din unit does require some slight modification to the head unit hole. The factory stereo used a set of rails in the hole to mount to. These rails did not allow the Kenwood mounting bracket to be inerted. The entire hole is comprised of plastic walls and rails, so removing the rails consisted of simply using a die grinder with a small cutoff wheel to cut the rails out (took less than 2-3 minutes to do). After doing so, the Kenwood mounting cage slid in perfectly, but there was no real location of fastening the cage in place.Due to how the cage for the Kenwood was designed I was able to use 2 self taping screws in the bottom of the cage by drilling two small holes in the cage and useing the two screws in the bottom of the cage, through the plastic beneath it (the screws stick through the bottom but do not get in the way of ash tray, so they are completely hidden). To keep thetop of the cage from moving I cut two small notches in the upper part of the hole to use with the folind tabs of the mounting cage (have to be careful here a the upper part of the stereo hol is actually the bottom of the climate control box). From there it was just a matter of wiring and sliding the head unit in place. The mall platic bezel that came with the head unit fit perfectly and looks good to finish off the head unit install (no modifications were necesary to bezel).
Note: For those who have an OEM amplifier, it is usually mounted behind the head unit, which can limit your space behind the radio.Many nice double din units have alot of wires coming out the back (as mine did) and this may make it more difficult to stuff all those wires behind the head unit easily. ANother note, Crutchfield lists that an 850 Volvo cannot fit a double din unit, this is false if you remove the plastic rails, once removed a double din fits perfectly.

Dash Speakers: The dash speakers are small. My OEM speakers were made into a special plastic bracket for mounting in the dash, and were held in place by those annoying plastic puch lock style holders. Removing them wa an easy task. A small flat screw driver will pop them out and then the speakers lift right out. I replaced mine with a pair of Infinity Reference 3022cf 3-1/2" 2 way speakers. These are far better than the crappy one way paper cone speakers that Volvo used (mine were beginning to deteriorate and just touching them caused them to crack). The Infinity 3-1/2" speakers fit perfectly fine without any modifications. However the mounting holes did not line up with the new speakers. Because Volvo used the platic push lock style fasteners, they mounted in the vinyl/plastic part of the dah and there is no metal mounting solution. The Infinities came with mounting screws and the metal clips to put over the hole to mount with, which turned out to work just fine, although I could only mount them with one screw (because of the small speakers, only one screw was needed and they are held in place just fine, and have given no ound of coming loose or rattling). Mounting depth is not all hat important as there is plenty of room below the dash for speakers in this location. The height of the speaker is more important. Anything much higher than tweeter on a pair of 3022cf speakers may come in contact with the factory grills. However they did not interfere with mine and my factory grills are back in place.

Front Door Speakers: My OEM front door speakers were cruddy one way paper cone speakers. Again they were showing signs of deteriorating. Although they are a metric size, they are nearly identical to a 5-1/4" speaker. So I replaced mine with a pair of Infinity Kappa 52.7i 2 way 5-1/4" speakers, which have adjustable tweeters to better aim the sound from them. The Infinities dropped right into the original loaction without any modifications needed. Of course not all the mounting holes lined up, but any two opposing mounting holes did, so I mounted mine with only 2 screws (using the original screws that Volvo used), choosing two 180 degrees from each other. This held the peaker firmly in place and the other 2 were not necesary. The Infinities I used also came with a small plastic box that house the crossover. I found no need to try to mount this as I was able to simply stuff it down below the speaker hole and it lodged in place easily, out of the way, and does not show any signs of being loose or rattling. Mounting depth was of no issue, but again, using any speakers that may have a height taller than the52.7i's might come in contact with the OEm speaker grill (mine fit fine and the original grill is back in place).
Note: Crutchfield says that only 4" speakers will fit in the front doors. This is false. 5-1/4" speakers fit almost perfectly without modification. trying to use 4" speakers will require modification and or purchasing extra mounting hardware to get them to mount in the larger hole. Using 4" speakers will require more work and probably cost more for extra parts, not to mention you have a much smaller set of choices in 4" speakers than you will with 5-1/4".

Rear Door Speakers: Volvo uses a pair of 2-way paper cone speakers in the rear doors, which are just a tad bit larger than the ones in the front door. I replaced these with another set of Infinity 52.7i 2-way speakers.These did not fit as well as the front door replacements did, and there is an added complication to the back doors (easy to work with though).Volvo glues these speakers inside a plastic housing, which most likely helps them to produce better bass. Because the OEM speakers are slightly larger, 5-1/4" speakers do not directly fit with the existing mounting holes as the front speakers did. Some modifications were necessary here. You have to pry the speaker out of the platic houing (be careful not to break the housing trying to do this (use of thi platic housing is not necessary, but it will help to produce better bass with your speakers if you use them). The modifications I had to do are as follows:
- I had to drill two 1/2" holes inot the housing, where Volvo originally just had two small slits to hook up the OEM speakers, in order for me to feed the wires to my new Infinities (you may only need one hole if your speaker choice only has one set of wires to them).
- I had to locate and drill 4 holes in the plastic housing to mount the new 5-1/4" speakers. It is easy to drill since it is just plastic.
- I fed the speaker wires into the plastic housing and then mounted the plastic hoising back into the door with the 4 original volvo screws. I then drilled 4 holes, through the 4 I drilled above in the housing, so that I could then mount my new speakers.You will be drilling through plastic here again, so it is easy to do. I then hooked up the speaker wires and mounted the speaker with the screws that came with the speaker (these are self tapping machine screws, so they go into the plastic with ease, just make ure you drill the holes smaller than the screws).
Again, the mounting depth was of no issue, but the height almot came in contact with the speaker grill, but the original speaker grills are in place and look proper. What I didnt mention was the small crossover box. Before I mounted the plastic hoising in place, I pushed the crossover box inside the door towards the hinge and they lodged in place perfectly without any need to mount them.
NOTE: Crutchfield again say that 4" speakers is all that will fit in this location, and this is entirely false. 4" speakers will require special mountingand possible modifications or extra hardware.5-1/4" speakers fit well here. I have seen where some people have also been able to mount 6-1/2" speakers, but this requires a little more work and the original speaker grills will not fit over them.

Rear Pillar Speakers (note on sedans also): In a wagon, there are speakers in the rear pillars by the lift gate. These are spall speakers similar to what is in the dash, but are in special plastic mountin brackets. You can fit 3-1/2" speakers here, but it will require making special mounts for them (I have not replaced these yet, instead I simply disconnected them...see the wiring info further down for the reason for this). In a sedan, you have what resembles a metric version of a 6x9 speaker, although a 6x9 is reported not to fit without modification, intead a 5x7 is suggested for the easiest replacement, or making a special bracket to house 5-1/4" speakers.

Extra additions: Beyond normal speaker replacement, I also added a self powered Infinity Basslink 10" subwoofer. For what I want, this this is perfect. It sounds great, has plenty of bass and take up very little room. I mounted mine on the left side of the rear cargo area, which fits perfectly between the rear wheel well and the pillar, and still allow me full use of the folding 3rd how seat in the back. Wiring it was simple, with a 10 gauge fused wire from the battery to the subwoofer. I fed the wire through the fise box to get through the firewall, then fed it along the left edge of the car under the carpet to reach the back. Only other wiring is the RCA cables from the head unit, which i fed through the center console and then under the carpet, and the rmeote power lead from the head unit which I fed along with the main power wire (I try never to feed power wires with RCA cables to help keep any electrical interference from getting injected into the rca cables). What remained was the ground wire, which was simple as there is abolt right below this location (under the board the subwoofer sits on, which pops up and usually houses your CD changer if you have one). This subwoofer also has a remote control for the bass level, which I routed the wire to my center console. I had a blank cover in my center console which wa not used (same size as your heated seat switch or power window switch), which allowedme to mount the control knob in this blank cover by drilling a 9/32" hole in it, so it looks stock and is unobtrusive.

I am very pleased with the sound quallity of this setup and it is far better than the stock Volvo system, and allows me many future upgrades.

Important Speaker/Wiring Information:
Here is the bare bone specifics on the OEM speakers to keep in mind when looking to replace them.

Dash: small 1-way 8 ohm peaker
Front door: mid 1 way 6 ohm speaker
Rear door: mid 2-way 8 ohm speaker
Rear pillar (wagon) or Rear shelf (sedan): 8 ohm speaker

The ohm rating is important to note hear. Most car speakers will be 4ohm speakers with some being 2 ohm. Volvo wires their speakers a little strange. The dash and front door speakers are wired separately. However the rear door and rear pillar (or rear shelf) speakers are wired in parallel, which mean your rear speaks are all wired to a single right and left channel, which makes those 2 sets of 8 ohm speakers a set of 4 ohm speakers. Most car amplifiers and amplifiers inside the head units are 4 ohm rated. So if you leave the OEM speakers in the car and just replace the head unit (and use the head unit's amplifier) then your front speakers may seem to be quieter than normal, this is because of the OEM speakers being a higher ohm rating. So if your head unit says it produces 50 watt per channel at 4 ohms, then driving an 8 ohm speaker with that amplifier would basically mean you are only giving them 25watts of power, while the set of parallel wired 8 ohm speakers in the back will be louder since they are working as 4 ohm speakers and would be getting the full 50 watts of power.

The Infinity speakers I chose are 2 ohm speakers, driven by the amplifier in my head unit, which is rated at 4 ohms. However, the head unit is a 4 channel unit, and I am driving 6 speakers. So I wired my dash and front door speakers in series on the front channel. Wiring them in series produces a set of 4 ohm speakers, which matches the rating of the head unit, which produces its full rated power. My rear door speakers are also 2 ohm, but at the moment I have not put in the extra set of speakers in the rear pillars, so they are being driven at 2 ohms by the head unit, which effectively doubles the wattage output the head unit produces. (it isnt exact but baically if you half the ohm rating of the output rating of the amplifier, you double the power, so a 50 watt aplifier at 4 ohms would be producing 100 watts at 2 ohms). Once I add the last set of speakers the rear speakers will also be wired in series to produce 4 ohms.

It is very important to keep in mind the ohm ratings and usage, to avoid potential damage to your speakers or amplifier. Most amplifiers (and head unit amplifiers) are stable when running at 2 ohms, although most are rated at 4 ohms. If you go below 2 ohms you risk damaging your speakers or amplifier. Some high end amplifiers are stable at 1 or even 1/2 ohm but these are expensive...do not do this unless your amplifier specifically say it is stable that way. Practically all head unit amplifiers are not stable below 2 ohms.

Wiring my speakers as I have mentioned was easy to this point. Volvo already had all the necessary wires pulled to the dash. To hook my dash and front door speakers in series, you would not hook them up directly, wire to wire between the wire harness and the head unit (doing so would just wire each speaker individually to the head unit). To wire them in series (to make two 2 ohm speakers act as 4 ohms) you would do the following:
- Hook up the left positive speaker wire to the positive connection speaker #1 (dash).
- Hook up speaker #1's negative connection directly to speaker #2's (front door) positive connection.
- Hook up the left negative speaker wire to the negative connection on speaker #2.

Since all these wires are already pulled to the dash by volvo, you do not need to run any extra wires, instead, simpley connect together speaker +1's negative wire to speaker #2's positive wire in the dash by the head unit. This produces the same effect.

The problem comes later for me to hook up the rear speakers in series, since they were originally hooked up in parallel. Since I cannot easily trace how the wired these speakers, I will have to pull a new wire from the rear door to the rear pillar to hook those speakers up in series, in order to guarantee not causing potential damage to my head unit. This will not be a simple wire to pull, which is why I havent bothered with it yet. Because I am using a pair of 2 ohm speakers it is imperative that they be hooked up properly. Accidentally hooking up a pair of 2 ohm speakers in parallel will produce a 1 ohm load which can very easily damage the amplifier in my head unit, as well a possibly damaging my speakers. So, it is possible that I could use the wires volvo already ha in place, but I would rather not risk it.

As for hooking up a separate amplifier to power your speakers, it is a relatively easy thing to do, but keep in mind a few things, if you decide to also add 1 or more separate amplifiers.

- Basically, you would hook up an amplifier the same way as I did the powered subwoofer above, except you will also need to run wires to the speakers it is going to power.
- Keep track of the ohm ratings capable of the amplifier and the ohm ratings of the speakers you are using. If you are going to wire speakers in parallel or series, it is best to stick with speakers of the same rating for simplicity. Example: Two 4 ohm speakers in parallel would produce a 2 ohm rating. Two 4 ohm speakers in series would produce an 8 ohm rating. ( i mentioned how to hook up speakers in series, to hook up in parallel you simply hook the positive speaker wire from the head unit to the positive connection on both speakers and the negative from the head unit to the negative connection on both speakers).
- Do not overpower your car without proper planning. As a rule, I never put more than 500 watts of power (regardless of the ohm rating, whatever the ohm rating I am using, I never exceed 500 watts) without taking other meaure to insure proper power handling. Over 500 watts, I will them begin to provide the vehicle with better power handling abilities (ie: adding a second battery, upgrding the alternator, etc). Exceeding 500 watts can begin to cause power drains on your car, and with many modern cars with alot of electronics and computers, causing uch power drains can cause problems, not to mention dead batteries and dead alternators.

Now my 500 watt rule (this is just my rule anyways, not some standard set in stone), is based on using separate amplifiers, and I usually do not include the amplifier rating in a head unit. Good amplifiers are much more efficient than cheapo amplifiers you may find at flea marketaudio places, wal-mart, etc. Cheapo amplifiers are quite often very inefficient, have poor sound qualityand are rarely capable of the wattage they advertise. In my opinion I would suggest staying away from such cheapo amplifiers. It is common for many amplifiers to advertie a wattage capability that they really never achieve, so plan accordingly.

Also, when buying speakers, do not be fooled by their advertised peak power capacity. You do not want to supply this amount of power to your speakers. Go by the RMS power capacity of the speaker when choosing an amplifier, as well, go by the RMS capacity of the amplifier. The peak power rating is the maximum the speaker can handle (or amplifier can produce) before damage is going to occur, and even then the peak number is only to be achieved in short bursts, never full time use. As an example, my 3-1/2" Infinities, have an RMS of 25 watts, but a peak of 75 watts. If I powered them with 75 watts for any extended period of use, I would most likely blow the speakers or melt their coils (not to mention the would sound like crud and be filled with disortion).

As with any full system upgrade it is best to do your research ahead of time, buy everything you need before starting the project. If you can get all components before doing the job, so you dont have to come back later and tear everything apart again to add something later. Some later additions are simple, some may require removing your head unit again, just keep this in mind. A full system upgrade can take awhile to complete, and purchasing an inexpensive wiring harness for an aftermarket head unit can be a life saver and possibly save you from damaging your investment if you are not familiar with having to hardwire the system yourself.

I hope this info is helpful to some. Feel free to add anything else or if you find someone inaccurate, please post to correct me.

Good luck

OK, after taking the dash off and getting the whole meter-unit out, disassembling that one and finally getting to the tiny part which many in this forum say is to cause of the mechanical odometer and trip-meter not working - I find this gear and all teeth are on it. As I have a new one, I nevertheless replace it - just to no avail. Still no advancement of my odometer.

This 'engine' which moves the odometer gear looks really simple so I can hardly expect that that is broken....

ANY Idea's ?

Hello to all,
I have a problem with my trip computer, it has all 6function, but just 2 are working (Outside temp, km with fuel in tank). the total km is showing 0, But the mechanic odometer is running good. The average fuel consumption and average speed and other functions is showing dashes (---). It's very irritating, i have checked fuses, and switch connector. Can someone help me ? I think this is common problem and someone should have an answer.
Thanks for answers and sorry for my bad English, it's not my native language.
oh and the cluster is VDO

Volvo 850 2.0 105kw 20v '93

Hello,
I am new to the forum and new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k) Thank you all for any help you can give me.

This 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away(automatic)from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters. Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem. Anyone got any idea's or similar experience that led to a solution?

Hi All Boffins

My Auto 2.4 850 SE (38600miles) does this lately:

- idles at about 1200 rpm, and takes long to settle to its 850 position, even when warm;
- when I engage Drive, idle drops to very low, car vibrates as if engine wants to switch off, then rises again as I give gas and pull away.

Would anyone know why this is the case, and what I could do to remedy this?

(About 2 months ago, idling was going really nuts! I removed the flame trap and fresh air hose: it was full of oily gunk and I gave all components a good clean up with carb cleaner and then replaced them, and then idling all fine after that).

Thanks very much.

Reevo

My radiator fan recently started coming on while in reverse. The weird thing is when it's in park it sounds like the fan is trying to come on but never does. It sounds like the fan just keeps getting turned on and off very very rapidly. When I put it in reverse it just turns on, in neutral and drive it's off. This only happens when I've been driving for at least a few mins.

250k+ miles,had a slow leak for awhile plus misfire code...lately there's been white stuff on the dipstick,changed the oil and it's still there. Guy at shop said it's probably gonna blow. Truth?...

Hello all:

I have a 1997 Volvo 850 where the battery slowly loses its charge. We don't drive it much so every two weeks it has to be trickly charged.

I have determined that there is a drain of 150 mA. When removing fuse 15, it drops to a drain of 50-60 mA. When removing fuse 6 (central locking)(in conjunction with 15) it drops to a drain of 10 mA. I can live with a drain of 10 mA

I don't mind removing fuse 15 as it is not critical. However, with the fuse removed, it makes a beeping noise - like the indicator when a door is open. IS THERE A SIMPLE WAY TO STOP THE BEEPING?

I understand that there is an electrical issue but not sure I want to spend a lot of money to fix it. I am not very mechanically inclined and I have a feeling it could cost a lot to fix this...

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Hi I have a 1995 850 automatic. Last week I was stopped at a light. When it turned green I started to go and about 20 feet through the intersection I lost all momentum. The engine was running fine the transaxle was not engaging. There were no signs of problems before this happened. After towing it home I managed to get it going for short periods of time.

I tried moving the gear shift up and down through the gears like I’ve read to help the PNP switch and it seemed to work but only briefly. Now when I feel the transaxle slipping it is accompanied by the flashing arrow and blinking lights for the economy/sport settings. Did not notice these the first time the problem happened. Pulled these codes off the diagnostic unit A1; 245, 223, 134, 114, 322. I’ve read the descriptions for these codes but don’t necessarily understand if they relate to my issue.

Don’t know when the last time the codes were cleared, I’ve had the car two and a half years, so some may be old and not relevant. After I pulled the codes I cleared them and nothing has shown up since. Since clearing the codes I have not managed to get the car into gear.

I was thinking it may be the PNP switch but now I’m not so sure. I will try to clean it when I get a chance and see if it makes a difference. Anyone experienced this problem? Have any ideas? Or is the transaxle toast? I did check the fluid level and condition and it seems fine.

Thanks for your help.

Hi to all Volvoists out there.

I recently had to change the tailgate struts on my T5 wagon as sometimes the tailgate would fall onto my head when least expected (I used to be about 5'8" but, because of this happening, I am about 5'7" now).

Anyway back to my story - duly armed with my Haynes 850 Repair Manual I enthusiastically went into my garage to do this simple job.

Within about 2 minutes I had discarded the manual as I found it grossly oversimplified the actual skill and rat-cunning needed to remove these innocuous looking little critters.

The Haynes manual advises the unwary home mechanic (once the gas struts are exposed) to simply remove the gas struts and reinstall in the reverse manner.

CRAP!!!! If it were that easy!

Unsuspectingly, I removed the locating bolts on either side which left the gas struts dangling down from the roof. Then the real fun started.

I quickly found out it is impossible to simply pull them apart (i.e. Hercules excepted) as the ball joints resist fiercely any attempt to separate them from their cosy little socket.

I opened up my Haynes Repair Manual seeking help, guidance and inspiration and, you've guessed correctly, nothing.

Discovering I could not lever these apart as there is insufficient room to gain adequate leverage I eventually found, wedging a short piece of square bar firmly between the ball joint and socket, the barrel of the gas strut could be used as a pseudo lever to force itself off. A quick trip to the bench vice applying the same technique soon had the opposite end separated from the roof bracket.

The bench vice was then used to press the ball joint/socket togehter on each of the roof brackets (this was very quick).

By now I was on a roll and got a 'G' clamp intending to press the sockets of each strut into thee respective tailgate hinge ball joint however, after lining up the 'G' clamp across the basll joint/socket, I found it impossible to turn the 'G' clamp handle as it was almost embedded into the headlining.

In desperation I tried a pair of those adjustable vice wrenches and through experimentation with angles etc. and using small incremental adjustments each time on each squeeze of the handles I finally succeeded in exerting enough pressure on the ball joint/socket until each ball joint was forced to pop into it's respective socket.

Maybe some future edition of the 850 Haynes Repair Manual might include more practical instructions on how to remove and re-install tailgate gas struts but I won't be holding my breath.

On the positive side, the new gas struts now lift up with a real 'zing' and have caught me under the chin on a number of occasions - a couple more times and I'll soon be back to 5'8" again (ha ha! just joking).

Regards
Volgrrr


"There are two types of car drivers on this planet - the ones who drive Volvos and the ones who wished they did."

I have this weird sound thing....it is a very distinctive tapping cadence. It just began today and is constant as soon as the key is turned, even without starting the car up. It seems to be up in the dash area above the glove box . Opening the hood you can hear it very clearly but can't see anything moving. What could this possibly be?

Im from the New York area and own an 850 wagon that is tuned on AEM EMS and actually happens to be the only one with aem stand alone. the car made 736hp & 793tq @ 26psi the modification list is extremely long but if anyone has any questions dont hesitate to ask and i will answer your questions as best as i can, here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure. ENJOY!!![attachment=10412:nu_079.JPG] [attachment=10413:nu_080.JPG] [attachment=10414:nu_081.JPG] [attachment=10415:nu_082.JPG] [attachment=10416:nu_083.JPG] [attachment=10417:nu_085.JPG] [attachment=10418:nu_086.JPG] [attachment=10419:nu_088.JPG] [attachment=10420:nu_090.JPG] [attachment=10421:nu_091.JPG] [attachment=10422:nu_092.JPG] [attachment=10423:nu_094.JPG] [attachment=10424:imagejpeg_2.jpg]

Spammer

Motor seems to burn out spark plugs every month. I was using non volvo sparks. I took car to Volvo dealers and repairers who gave car a diagnostic check but nothing showed up. They told me to use Original Volvo Spark Plugs which I did. The Car went great with no problems for about 3 months thinking problem was fixed. Low and behold the same problem came back.
I changed spark plugs again (original Volvo) and car only ran for 10 ks and then ran very very rough with no power. Motor felt like it was running on a few cylinders. It seem this problem happens mostly in hot weather. Motor also heats up but when cooled down runs well again. I intend to buy new rotor Bosch and Distributer cap and if needed coil. Can anybody offer any help etc It would be very appreciated as I love Volcos but right now it is testing my patience

Motor seems to burn out spark plugs every month. I was using non volvo sparks. I took car to Volvo dealers and repairers who gave car a diagnostic check but nothing showed up. They told me to use Original Volvo Spark Plugs which I did. The Car went great with no problems for about 3 months thinking problem was fixed. Low and behold the same problem came back.
I changed spark plugs again (original Volvo) and car only ran for 10 ks and then ran very very rough with no power. Motor felt like it was running on a few cylinders. It seem this problem happens mostly in hot weather. Motor also heats up but when cooled down runs well again. I intend to buy new rotor Bosch and Distributer cap and if needed coil. Can anybody offer any help etc It would be very appreciated as I love Volcos but right now it is testing my patience

Hello,

I am making repairs on my 1994 850 Turbo, and have come into a problem with my steering pump. While I was trying to get his problem fixed, the employee of a local auto parts store pointed out that I had a very improper hose replacement. The hose is crimped very badly, and will not be doing it's job properly as-is. Problem is, I don't know what this part is for, nor do I know it's name.

If someone could identify the hose that should be in its place, I would be greatly appreciative. I would like to replace this part so that I'm not causing further damage to the poor car.

Thank you very much!
[attachment=10326:photo_2.JPG]
[attachment=10325:photo_1.JPG]

Hey guys. I've got a problem with my '95 850 Turbo. I recently got in an accident where this guy ran a light and ran into me head on. I replaced both headlights myself and straightened out the hood myself. Since the crash, however, coolant has been leaking out of my car like crazy. I'm not sure where from, but I refilled my tank with a bottle of Prestone 50/50 and I noticed a whole bunch of fluid in my driveway after I pulled out. I'm planning to take it to a mechanic to see what's up, but I just wanted to know if anyone here has had this problem before and knows a solution.








^^^ Whenever I start the engine, smoke comes out from here

So in my 96' 850 my dash is squeaking on the passenger side. If slight pressure is applied to the glovebox or airbag the squeaking stops. I just want to know how to fix it cause the squeaking is driving me nuts!!

Hello,

We are still working on our 1994 850 Turbo and have some questions regarding what seems to be missing parts and a funky smoke...

1. Please look at the pictures I have uploaded. You will see that it seems we are missing a part that belongs under the radiator reservoir - does anyone know what this part is?

2. Also, there is a hose that is missing from some sort of electrical housing unit to the front of the car - what is this hose called so that I can order the proper part?

3. Okay - check out this (very strange). If you see my other pictures, you will see there is a short tube (roughly 4" long) that is badly crimped, and is obviously a bad replacement. I would like to replace the tube with the proper part, but I don't know the name of the tube, nor do I know what two parts it's connecting. Any and all info on this would be really helpful.

4. The funky smoke - it seemed to come from a/c pulley - we saw it smoke and melt the serpentine belt. If we replace the unit, will it solve the problem, or there an underlying issue?

A big thanks for all your help!

I was driving my Volvo 850 yesterday and out of the blue it died, I checked the fuel pump , spark plug wires on side of the road I waited about an hr to see if it would start but it would not. i had it towed home and I checked the coil and not spark , so I replaced the cam and crank position sensors the coil , rotor cap and button has been replaced in within the last six months. I cleaned the connectors to the cam and crank sensor to the coil and mass air flow sensor and still will not start. What else will keep the coil from getting a spark?

Hey guys, first post on this forums. Im a big car nut and this is my first volvo!!!
its a 1993 850 GLT automagic 90k miles
was sitting in the yard for two year when i picked it up, didnt run, bought for 300.
Bought new battery, change fuel pump and filter. and now its brand new!
haha well kinda.

Anyways to get to what i need help with. The car runs great. just the dam transmission.
Yes i have the blinking light. it also stays into higher gear when i am driving it around.

I believe its on limp mode.

I have opened and cleaned the PNP and it seems to work a little better. i ran code threw A1 and got 1-2-2 and also 2-1-1.
S1 Solenoid code
and transmission ecu code? i believe.. not positive.

i have been doing a lot of research and now i just need a little more advice and direction on changing the solenoids. i herd it is best to do all three. S1S2 (part# 6843783) and SL (part#6843784.

where are these solenoid located?

and am i heading in the right direction?

sorry im a nub when it comes to volvo.

Thanks in advanced!

250k+ miles,had a slow leak for awhile plus misfire code...lately there's been white stuff on the dipstick,changed the oil and it's still there. Guy at shop said it's probably gonna blow. Truth?...

hi, I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue:( i have replaced everything but still overheating.It only does it when i have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. it goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red befor it dropes back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and dropes back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, i start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up? please any help would be much apprecaited:) thnk from lawrence

These trans are getting hard to find. My wife's is 11/92 build, making it a 1993. Is there any sensor/wiring issues I need to know before I take it out of the 1994? Thanx for any reply.

hi;

I have a 1997 Volvo 850 with 120,000 miles on it. I understand that the P0455 is gross leak and most often the issue is the gas cap. However, the check engine light only comes on every two weeks or so (and the gas cap is on/fine). I disconnect the battery for a few moments and the CEL is OFF for another two weeks. The car does not get driven that much but it seems that light comes on when there is 8 gallson left in the tank of so - almost seems as if it comes on each time when the fuel level reaches a certain point...

I have read you can smoke test it, etc. However, I am curious as to whether anybody has any input - again, my big question is why this would only have every two weeks? If there is a leak, then it should come on right away, right???

Any input would be greatly apprecicated.

Thanks!

I can see it but not sure how to release it for replacement. This is the microswitch to control the shift lock release. I've removed the solenoid and see the microswitch, but I can't see how the microswitch snaps into place. 1996 850 Volvo. (I did search the forum first, but found no references to this.) Les

I have a 1997 Volvo 850 2.4L with 120,000 miles on it. After fully charging the battery, it takes about two weeks and the battery is drained or very low even when driving the car. Took the car to Autozone and they checked the battery (good) but said the alternator was only producing 13.07V and 12.7 with load.

Is this definitely a bad alternator and if so, how much would approximately be to replace it? Also, would a re-built alternator be OK to save money?

No other issues with the car as long as I charge the battery every two weeks.

Any suggestions/input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

So, I just got my 1996 volvo 850 turbo wagon running, after I replaced a valve, lapped all the valves and replaced all valve stem seals/full stage zero(timing belt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, thermostat). Boy was she a strong runner, for the whole day it was running. I do admit to abusing it quite a bit. But what else would you expect from an 18 year old kid who just rebuilt his first volvo engine ? Now, i will note that the car had horrid previous owners, that took no care of the car(ran it low on oil and who knows what else). I know I ran it out of oil once, on the way home from buying it.....the guy did not put the oil filter on tight enough, and it blew the oil filter seal out. Luckily volvo's have low oil sensors. after i rebuilt the top end my engine was throwing out blue smoke for a while, but i thought it was just a bad turbo bearing.
Anyways, to cut to the chase; My engine sounds like this one.

http://s294.beta.photobucket.com/user/p ... 7.mp4.html

**EDIT: Today i found these things out

I did a compression check, all cylinders at 180 psi. all my lifters look good. I had a few plugged oil passages in the cam cover, but none that go to the lifters. i pushed on all valve springs, they look good. i used a screwdriver and hammer to check if the valve guides pulled out, and the valves are solid in place. I was still making boost even though the engine was knocking like this, so i know its not a rod bearing, because the knock sensors would have picked up on it and dropped the boost. Anyone that has had this noise, or knows what it is, please let me know

Thanks a bunch,
Predxen