Volvo 850 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Ok - So I just purchased a 1998 S70 and prior to purchase I took it for a thorough inspection at my Volvo mechanic. He was very interested in my 1995 Black T5R w/ 144K miles, even though I told him there was plenty wrong with her. He hasn't even seen her yet.....He wants me to come up with a price - and he also wants to check her out. I have NO IDEA what to ask for her - so I was looking for some help. I will list what is wrong with her - and then maybe someone can get me in the right direction. remember, he is a Volvo mechanic at an independent Volvo shop.

No AC - was not dye tested. Was charged and ran cold for a little over a day.
Needs a new drivers seat belt
Missing on all cylinders (I was told by another mechanic that a tune-up would probably clear these codes)
Code 154 - EGR Flow is too High
Code 232 Long term Fuel Trim at limits at idle
Code 315 - Evap System
Makes a clicking when I am turning hard left - heard this could be fixed for a few hundred...I forgot what I was told it was.

Headliner is in bad shape
Have to jiggle key to get her in reverse - interior lights do not work (have no idea if its just a fuse)
Other minor interior issues (ashtray is stunk in open position, a piece of the shifter cracked off)

For a Volvo mechanic who has access to no labor and parts at cost, what is a fair asking price?

Heather

Tightening torques apply to lubricated screws and nuts. Lubricate degreased components prior to installation.

COMPONENTS - NM
Exhaust manifold, cylinder head side - 24
Exhaust manifold - heat shield(Turbocharger (TC)) - 20
(Other) - 15
Exhaust pipe - turbocharger (TC)(stud screw) - 20
(lock nut) - 25
Exhaust system, front / rear pipe - 25
Exhaust system, pipe to exhaust manifold(stud screw) - 25
(nut) - 30
Fuel rail - 10
Cylinder head
stage 1 - 20
stage 2 - 60
stage 3 - 130°
Intake pipe - 17
Camshaft carrier cover - 17
Camshaft pulley - 20
Timing belt, idler pulley - 24
Timing belt, tensioner damping unit - 24
Timing belt, tension pulley (1992-1993) - 40
(1994) - 30
Knock sensor (KS) - 20
Radiator - 30
Coolant pump - 20
Carrier plate
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 50°
Torque control arm
stage 1 - 50
stage 2 - 90°
Torque converter ........ - 50
Oil trap - 15
Oil plug (to oil pan) - 35
Oil pump - 10
Oil pressure switch - 25
Screw for cover, piston cooling - 17
Flywheel
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 65°
Vibration damper, centre nut - 180
Vibration damper flanged screw
stage 1 - 25
stage 2 - 30°
Throttle spindles, intake manifold - 1
Spark plug (do not lubricate) - 25

The Very first thing you will need to do is disconnect the battery. Make sure you have your radio code. If not get it from the Dealer.

First start on the drivers side by removeing the the little round cap in the end of the dash.It is by the door on the end of the dash. Then remove the screw under the cap and remove the cover. Then you will see another screw that goes into the body by the windsheild. Next remove the speaker cover then the speaker. Push in the center of the clip one click then remove the clip. Next remove all the Vents by carefully prying them from the side of the vent in the middle.Then remove all the screws in the top of the vent holes.And remove the 2 screws in the hole by the speedo cluster. Next move to the passenger side.Remove the speaker cover and speaker on the passenger side.There is also a screw that will need to be removed. Next you will need to remove the glovebox insert.remove all the torxes screws around the insert. Then remove the door arms.There is a little hole in the door to slide a small screwdriver into to help remove the are. Then you need to remove the 4 10mm screw that go across the top of the glove box area.They screw into the Air bag. Remove the plug for the Air bag. Then the entire top part of the dash should come off. Then you can unlatch the speedo assembly and remove it. If it is a turbo you will need to remove a vaccum hose from the back of the speedo cluster if it has a turbo guage.

Then you can replace all the bulbs.

First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.

Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug or a Yellow with a Purple pull tab to release. It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Then you will see the Dash Mounting Tabs on the back of the Dash.
This is what I would use to repair the Tabs. They call it Piping strap.I have a picture posted at the bottom of the post.
What you will do is cut a piece that will go up and over the tab that you can screw on each side. You will need to screw it over the clips that are there with the threads.Make sure you get it as tight as you can. Then when you got them all secured before installing make sure you install either a piece of Duct tape or Felt tape over the Tab and strap. This way you know it won't squeek or anything like that.

Then reinstall the dash.

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

This it how you repair the seat back cable. I will also explain how to replace the cable as well.

You will need to remove the Lumbar adjustment knob. Unscrew as far as you can. Then pull out and unscrew till it stops then one more time pull and unscrew. The washer part under the knob pulls right off. It will look like this.


Then you will need to cut the 4 metal hogrings in the seam where the front and back of the leather meet.





Also you will have to remove the seat switch panel. When you do so on the back of the panel there should be a red plastic clip. Install that where I have shown in the picture. Failure to do so may cause the seat air bag to go off if that metal piece is hit while messing with the seat. If your clip is missing find something plastic fairly thick to install there.


Sometimes it is easiest to get to them from the back seat area.
Next unfold the leather from the plastic pieces on the ends. There is little hooks that hold the leather.



Next start sliding the leather up the seat back slowly and carefully. There is 4 more hog rings you will need to cut. In the picture they are located in the little holes you see where the metal rod is. They go around the metal rod in the leather and to the rod in the foam.



Also while sliding the leather up you will have to unhook little hooks from the back side that help keep the leather tight around the rear pocket of the seat.



The white stuff in the middle is the heating element for the seat heaters.

Once you get the leather this high look from the back of the seat. You will see the motor and transmisson.
If you choose to try to repair the cable you will need to heat the metal in either the transmission or motor and slide the plastic parrt of the cable in. Then while holding it move the switch and make sure the cable grabs. Sometimes you will have to do both sides at the motor and transmission. I had to do both on both of my cars. I did this today thats where this post is coming from.



Before repairing the cable.



After repairing the cable.



Before repair at transmission



After repair.

If you want to replace the cable you will have to slide the big plastic piece off the inside to remove the screws holding the transmission to the seat. Also remove the clip on the rod to slide the transmission out to gain access to the screws to remove the cable. Remove the screws in the motor from the retainer to get the cable out and replace the cable.

Install everything in reverse order.

Hope this helps someone out there.

OK, this probably is late.

I've also had PMs telling me to start with this already. So, let's start... But I want to keep this thread direct to the point, so if anyone has any suggestions, please put it in. Or if you want to PM me, I will give the credit where it is due (no worries on that) and provide sources of information as well. Outright web-links however are discouraged.

(I know this was available in the past in some other forums, but since some of them have blocked views to memberships only, let's help to keep this information free-flowing...) -> Afterall, what good is internet in the firstplace, eh?

Please note however, that I reserve the right to EDIT posts that i think are inaccurate, and DELETE any posts that I think are irrelevant without giving any notification. So, please be wary of what is written.

Thanks!






P/S:
If you're quoting directly from another source, at least, try to just give the gist of the message out...

So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while.
The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.

I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.

This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.

The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?

What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor?
Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?

Help me out here, guys! Send me some thoughts on this!
Pinning this problem would make this the only Volvo site on the net that has a real cure for the problem!

First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.


Hope this helps someone.

Good tips!
Hard to find, indeed.

Thanks to Volgrrr...

This is how I do it with minimal damage.Push down on the top of the door and look in the middle.You should be able to see where the metal latch comes out of the dash.You need to get in there with a screwdriver and start breaking small peices out of the glove box insert in the dash.Start from the metal latch and work out.You will expose the 2 screws that hold the latch in.When you have enough plastic broke you can use a philips screwdriver to remove the screws.Then the door will open.Then you will have to take the door apart to finish opening the latch.The only damage left when you are done is a little plastic broke behind the glovebox door.You don't even have to replace the insert for the glove box.You will just have to buy the door latch kit.

I have inserted some pics to help.The blue area is what needs to be removed.
Hope this helps.

i changed it last night with my dad cuz the old one was really messed up on the left and my dad said that if he pulled it any more that it would crack. so he left it and we've been driving with the left wheel a little towards teh rear. now we got one for really cheap at teh junk yard a changed it.

but there is one small thing. we also put on the junkyard control arms. they were different from the ones we had but the wheel sits the same. i looked it up and i found that the wagon and sedan had different ones. do you think that i should put the original ones back on? the original is one solid piece. the sedan ones are not. the end(i'm not sure what its called) is held on by three bolts. i'll take pictures to explain better.

oh and if anyone wants pictures of how we set everything up, i'll post them. or i'll do it anyways later. i just dont think that this is a very common part that gets replaced...

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

Once compressor is off set it like the following pic and remove the 10mm screw in the middle of the pulley.

Then carefully remove the outer part of the Clutch.(There is a special tool which I didn't have I used to screw drivers but be careful)


Then either the shims will come out with the outer peice like mine did or they will be sitting on the shaft once the outer part is removed.



If you look closely the washers/shims are different thicknesses. You will need to Measure the thickness and then find one a little thinner and reinstall and check the Gap between the outer and inner part of the clutch.
I will have to find out the exact specs but I believe it needs to be .016 Cannot be more than .020.
Use a fueller gauge to measure the gap.

Hey,

Can someone tell me, or send me a picture of where the Outside Air Temp Sensor is mounted my the front bumper? A pic would be great.


Thank you

I am thinking about getting a new Mallory Coil from IPD

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-850/Engine/Eng...2-153-155-3086/

Are they worth it? What is the voltage difference? Data please Data

What plug numbers are used to get Trouble Codes on:

A1
A2
A3
A7

B1
B2
B5
B7

Thanks for the help

What is the firing order for a 95 850?

Is plug gap 0.24 to 0.28?

Where does # 1 start on the cap?

Any links to see this?

Can anyone let me know where the Coolant Sending Unit is? Pictures?

Or a link on how to replace it!

Thanks

Is there a very good brake fluid that we can use in our cars?

Whats better?
ATE.SL6
ATE Super Blue

Or??

Has anybody out there upgraded the oil lines to braided stainless steel. If so where did you get the supplies.

My friend has an srt4 and is getting an aftermarket bov soon. he's giving his stock on to me. i heard somewhere that volvos and srt4s both have a mitsubishi turbo. is this true?

his bov looks like this:



its that blue thing that goes between the turbo and the bypass valvo.

heres the spape:




correct me if i'm worng, but wouldn't that bolt into the volvo turbo no problem?

My 95 850 turbo has been randomly shutting itself off while driving so I replaced the fuel filter today. While doing the i noticed the hoses (I am assuming vacuum lines) conecting top a Sensor above the fuel filter are broken. Could this be the culprit of why it is shutting off and also what is that sensor. Thank you in advance

My '94 850's fan switch only works in the high (#4) position. Is there more than one relay? And where may it (they) be located? Are there any other issues that may be in play here to prevent positions 1, 2 and 3 not to work? Thanks for your help.

Looking into some 240's, 740's, and 850's after my '00 S40 gave up the ghost. Just wanting to get some insight as to the pro's and con's of each model as compared to each other, from those of you more knowledgeable of Volvo's. My wife has previously owned both a 244, and and 850 and speaks very highly of both, but she's not knowledgeable of the finer details of the vehicles. I'm gonna post in the all three of the forums for you guys. Thanks.

I have noticed in quite a few posts where folks are reading transmission fault codes and using the engine fault code definitions. The engine codes and transmission codes may be the same number but they have completely different definitions. Here is a list of the trans fault codes for the 850. When you have the yellow arrow blinking on the dash, here is the list of what the fault codes mean.

DTC/OBD-II.....DTC Warning Light On(1).....Fault/Repair
112/P0750 ............... Yes .......... Short To Voltage In No. 1 Shift Solenoid Circuit
113/P0755 ............... Yes .......................... TCM Fault
114 ...................... No ............... Mode Selector Switch Circuit Malfunction
121/P0750 ............... Yes ........... Short To Ground In No. 1 Shift Solenoid Circuit
122/P0750 ............... Yes ................ Open In No. 1 Shift Solenoid Circuit
123/P0745 ............... Yes .. Short To Voltage In Line Pressure Solenoid (STH) Circuit
124 ...................... No ............ Short To Ground In Mode Selector Switch Circuit
131 ..................... Yes .... Open Or Short To Ground In Line Pressure Solenoid (STH) Circuit
132/P0745 ............... Yes .......................... TCM Fault
134 ...................... No .............. Incorrect Load Signal
141 ...................... No ... Short Circuit In Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit
142 ...................... No ............ Open In Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit
143 ...................... No ........ Short To Ground In Kickdown Switch Circuit
211/P0750 ............... Yes .......................... TCM Fault
212/P0755 ............... Yes .......... Short To Voltage In No. 2 Shift Solenoid Circuit
213/P0120 ............... Yes ........... Throttle Position Sensor Signal Too High
221/P0755 ............... Yes ........... Short To Ground In No. 2 Shift Solenoid Circuit
222/P0755 ............... Yes ................ Open In No. 2 Shift Solenoid Circuit
223/P0120 ............... Yes ........... Throttle Position Sensor Signal Too Low
231 ..................... Yes .......... Erratic Throttle Position Sensor Signal
232/P0500 ............... Yes ...... Speedometer Signal Missing Or Vehicle Speed Signal Missing
233 ..................... Yes ....... Speedometer Signal Incorrect
235 ................... (2) Yes ............. High Oil Temperature
245 ..................... Yes ............ Open Or Short In Torque Limiting Circuit
311/P0715 ............... Yes .............. RPM Signal Missing Or Transmission Speed Sensor Signal Missing
312 ..................... Yes ............... RPM Signal Incorrect
313/P0705 ............... Yes ............... Gear Position Sensor Signal Incorrect
321/P0731, 322/P0732,
323/P0733 & 324/P0734 .. Yes ............... Incorrect Gear Ratio
322/P0730 (3) ........... Yes ... Gear Ratio Information Incorrect
323 (3) ................. Yes .... Lock-Up Slips Or Is Not Engaged
331 ...................... No ........ Short To Voltage In Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit
332 ...................... No ... Open In Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit
333 ...................... No ......... Short To Ground In Lock-Up Solenoid Circuit
341 ..................... Yes ............. Lock-Up Function Slips Or Disengages
411 ...................... No .............. Control Module EEPROM Memory Fault
421 ...................... No ............ Battery Voltage Too Low
(1) - Warning light is located in instrument panel. When a
fault occurs, DTC is recorded and warning light comes
on. If fault is intermittent, warning light will go
out, but DTC will remain.
(2) - Only for as long at oil temperature remains high.
(3) - If DTC is present, mechanical malfunction has occurred.
Manufacturer recommends replacing transaxle assembly.

I hope this helps out

I have a erratic miss in the engine.

Engine has 190,000 on it

This is a list of new parts:

Plug Wires - 30,000 miles on them
Plugs- Bosch - Gap 0.28
Ignition Cap & Rotor - IPD
Air Filter - IPD
Oil Trap - Flame Trap - All Lines
Throttle Body - Cleaned

Fuel Injectors Professionally Cleaned - www.witchhunter.com
All new seals/o-rings for it.

Service Light - Not coming on.

I used dielectric grease in the connections on: Fuel Injection connectors, Throttle Positioning Sensor, Idle Control Pump

Anything that I am missing?

Hi guys, I'm not so new to the forums but I've been away for quite some time. I just purchased a 1997 volvo 850R and I'm loving every second of it. However, whenever I'm driving it I notice an intermittent rumbling/vibration (about every 3 seconds) coming from the front drivers wheel area (I think) and I was wondering if it could be the wheel bearings... Not sure if a ball joint/tie rod would be the issue either.

Also, the TRAC OFF and ABS lights are on all the time and never go off, any ideas on what that could be? Finally the Service light goes on when I start up the car, and then goes off about 5 minutes after, any suggestions on that would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks a lot for your advice, this is sure to save me a tonne of money !

Hi,

Does anyone know if there are any High Output alternators available for a 1996 volvo 850 GLT? I know that the one currently on the car is a 100 amp but I am looking for something with more power output. Thanks for the help.

i have a 96 850 turbo. the coolant turbo inlet hose had a hole. i made a new hose. but now the banjo bolt area is leaking. should there be washers on both side of the bolt. thanks for any help

Hey Guys

I have been a long time reader of the board but I never signed up till today. So hello to everyone.

My father has been a Volvo fan for years and he just bought a 1996 850 with only 80 km in great condition. Everything works fine except that it did not have a keyless entry system. I've done some research and was able to find where the location of the little black box would be. The car did not come with one so I went and bought a box from the local car yard of another 850. Now my problem is that I plugged it in, and it still is not working. I know that there is something I am missing. I programed the remotes as was told and tried many times over but still to this point have not been able to make it work. I was just wondering if anyone knows what relays I might be missing or wires that need to be hooked up to make this system work. Again it didnt have the system I went and bought the black box and plugged it in but nothing happened....Any help would be appreciated....

Thanks

Hey,

I pulled the plus out of my 850. This is plug # 4

Look at the coloring....

Any ideas?

Hello,

I recently got a 1997 850. The alternator has gone bad, so they said at autozone, and I need to remove the one in there, and get a new one. I need the instructions on how to remove the alternator. If you could please let me know.

Thanks in advance,
lost_in_volvo_land
:-)

Recently my 850 hasn't been shifting up into any higher gears. I think the winter/econ sport control might be the problem, I've tried switching it back and forth and it would return to normal. However the last day or two the problem seemed to get worse and the car wouldn't change at all.

I tried driving the car in 3 or L and now the car changes gear in Drive, but the arrow light is blinking now... what should i do?

About 2 weeks ago I did a coolant flush on my 96 850R with not problems. The other day while I was stuck in traffic I noticed a slight puff of steam when I put my foot on the gas. After getting out of the traffic I popped the hood and noticed that my turbo coolant line (the short hose section)was cracked and leting coolant out.I did have enough coolant in the system to get me home. Once she cooled down I opened the cap on the resevor and found it almost empty but there was no sign of coolant on the ground. I fixed the cracked hose refiled the system started the car brought it up to temp and no problems and no leaks. Yesterday while driving for about 90 mins the temp gauge shot up almost to the red line and came back down again. I pulled over immedatly and open the hood and could see that the coolant tank was at the max line. Got the car home let it cool down opened the coolant tank and no coolant in the tank and no coolant on the ground. So once again refilled slowly his time ( as I tought I might has case an air lock the last time) turned it on brought it up to temp left her run for 20 min everything was fine no leaks the temp gauge stayed at just below the 1/2 mark. Tonight when for a drive and the same thing happened again. I noticed tonight that there is some coolant leaking from the cap of the coolant tank. What is going on?????????

Okay, a new/continued thread for my wagon.....

I got the rear side cargo glasses and the door trim piece from member lkm46 today! It's supposed to be in the 70's and sunny the rest of the week here so it's perfect timing to get them installed right away.

PS ~ If you need any used 850/early V70 wagon parts, contact member lkm46 for a great deal and excellent service, while he's still got a lot left. I sure appreciate his help. Thanks again Levi!

I have a 95 850 2.4 10 Valve B5252S

This is what happens:

I am driving with the A/C on. I pull in to get gas, I shut off the car. After getting gas, I get in a start the car. It starts, but then stalls before I can get it into gear.

Any ideas what sensor/gadget is going bad?

Thanks

I have a 95 Volvo 850.

On the throttle linkage is a screw used to hold something down, and I have forgotten whart went there. I hope someone can help me.

Attached is a picture

Thanks

Hey everyone,

This is my first post about this issue. This has just started in the last month or so.

I have a 95 850 GLE (Canada Car)

I noticed that I am getting real lite amount of oil coming out my dipstick, and also I think a small leak from the front crank seal.

The car has 186,000 miles on it.

There is NO smoke from the exhaust pipe,
No leaks from the cam seals on the timing belt side.
Very Very Very lite oil from the cam cover.
No oil in spark plugs holes.

I have changed the flame Trap, and it was not the issue.

What could just cause this to just start?

Clogged Cat Converter?
Ring Blow By?

Thanks for any help you can give me on this issue.

My car is a 95 Volvo 850.

The is a part that is attached to the side on the air cleaner.
It re-routes the ambient(outside) air from the heat shield part of the exhaust to the breather and once car is warm, it re-routes air from the cold air intake into the breather for the engine to use.

I live in Texas, it is 90 degrees today and the cold air part is blocked off. I would have thought that it would be open and the exhaust part closed off.


Is there a way to test it?

Thanks

Friends:

Recently had a turbocharger hose pop offon my 94 850t. Not sure what was causing all the problems I took it in for repair. Car now runs beautifully -- BUT, for some odd reason the fuel economy readings on the dashboard trip computer are running backwards. When I cram the accelerator, the computer says I am getting super mileage, and when I let off and virtually coast downhill, it says I am getting way under 10 mpg.

Seems something must have been reversed or something. Any ideas?

Joe

Hi, First time Volvo owner. 1997 850 Non turbo 174000m?? (on stopped odometer).
Volvo is replacing 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2, good car, 215000 miles. The head gasket blew sometime ago but temp repair with an addative. I was still getting some oil in antifreeze and would seem to over heat on longer trips even though the temp gauge never went up.
I was shopping for a daily driver for a long time. Found this non-turbo on craigslist. Man who was selling owns a detail shop. The car was very clean since it had just been detailed, which scared me a little, but for $800 talked down from $950, I figured I can't go wrong.

After getting home, test driving, and going over everything this is some of my questions or issues I've had.

Issue 1: Lifter started ticking, checked oil, it was a little low. Put in a partial QT and tick went away. Noticed under car some oil spray under car from a leak. Noticed some oil on top of engine in groves (Previously clean after detailing). Took off Plastic SP wire cover and nearly every dip and hole was filled with oil. Checked oil filler cap and noticed crack in seal! Replaced cap and leak seems to have stopped.

Issue 2: When test driving, there was horrible noise from front brakes. Car had been sitting for some time before purchase. Knew that I would have to do brake work so bought rotors and pads. Couldn't move the LF caliper to install pads, so put on old ones (temp). Drove and there was still bad shudder. Have ordered new caliper and lines.

issue 3: I think that the shudder may not be all from the brakes. It seems that the wheel bearing may be bad on LF also. Are these known for going out? And are they hard to replace?

issue 4: Odometer is not working but I have already searched this forum and found the detailed repair for the gear that breaks. If I get a code reader, will it tell me the actual mileage?

issue 5: Power antenna was stuck in the up position. Worked it with oil and is now working great except I can't get any reception. Seemed to have worked better when it was stuck up! Any ideas as to why?

Issue 6: This is a manual and there seems to be a lot of slack in the drive train. Shifting is smooth and clutch seems very good, but say if you are driving in 2nd or 3rd at a normal pace, let off the gas for couple of sec's then give it gas, there seems to be a jolt or slack. Any Ideas where to start? could this be motor mounts? Or is this tranny slack? Any known issues of this type for this model?

I really like the car! I want to fix her up. Other than some minor issues I think she will drive for a long time. I noticed that it was said here that the 5-cyl was bullet proof! I just want to keep her in good shape.

Is there anything I should look into right away for this Model and Yr?

hi,

having had an (m reg) 850 saloon for a couple of years ive recently bought an (k reg) 850 estate.

id assumed i could use my existing wiring loom/iso harness thing which id bought for the saloon to plug my Kenwood KDC-W3037 into the estate, removing the existing Volvo CR708 cassette radio.

imagine my frustration on removing the CR708 to discover the box-plug thing & an audio style din type plug marked Amp. aargh! ive searched for a loom online but none of them appear to deal with the round din plug.

can anyone point me towards a wiring loom to connect a kenwood stereo to a 92-3 850?

I service my car myself (for the most part anyways). Recently the check engine light has gone on. So far, it doen't stay on but goes out after a few minutes. After servicing the engine, how do i get the check engine light to go off?
Second question - how do you bypass the button that releases the gear shift lever?
That's it for now - thanks for your help
kleuch48

jump started the volv this morn, been sittin a few months.
96 850t 133,xxx

did a 10 mile loop city and highway

came back and noticed oil on the ground and when i open the hood wow.
where is this oil coming from?

I was wondering if a 94 turbo alternator would work in a 95 with non turbo motor?

My daughter-in-law just bought a 850 station wagon. It seems like a nice car and has been well taken care of but it has one problem.
the back hatch latch is in the locked position but the door is not shut so driving down the road it is open or unlatched. I tried to open it with the key but no luck.
I checked the fuses and all ok. what is the name of the part if i need to replace it or is there a way to manually unlock the latch?
the guy knocked 300 off the price of the car because of this. I am very mechanically inclined but never worked on a Volvo.

thanks for the help
bofreddy

Hi, (1995 volvo 850 glt)
ever since i jumped someones car, my volvo has been killing batteries. they even die out while driving. While in mid driving my console lights, headlights, and power everthing goes slower. if I turn the light off the car will stay on but once it starts dieing it hesitates to move and drive like crap. I went to auto zone and got my alternator, starter and battery checked and they said they where fine. does anyone know anything that could help me? I think i might have a bad ground or something.

Will my car still drive without the ABS or TRAC module?

i finally purchased some BG Frigi-Clean to see if i could rid my 850 T from the mild odor at the inception of the A/C cycle. i need to know the easiest way to introduce it into the evaporator location. any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks

HP