Volvo 850 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

This it how you repair the seat back cable. I will also explain how to replace the cable as well.

You will need to remove the Lumbar adjustment knob. Unscrew as far as you can. Then pull out and unscrew till it stops then one more time pull and unscrew. The washer part under the knob pulls right off. It will look like this.


Then you will need to cut the 4 metal hogrings in the seam where the front and back of the leather meet.





Also you will have to remove the seat switch panel. When you do so on the back of the panel there should be a red plastic clip. Install that where I have shown in the picture. Failure to do so may cause the seat air bag to go off if that metal piece is hit while messing with the seat. If your clip is missing find something plastic fairly thick to install there.


Sometimes it is easiest to get to them from the back seat area.
Next unfold the leather from the plastic pieces on the ends. There is little hooks that hold the leather.



Next start sliding the leather up the seat back slowly and carefully. There is 4 more hog rings you will need to cut. In the picture they are located in the little holes you see where the metal rod is. They go around the metal rod in the leather and to the rod in the foam.



Also while sliding the leather up you will have to unhook little hooks from the back side that help keep the leather tight around the rear pocket of the seat.



The white stuff in the middle is the heating element for the seat heaters.

Once you get the leather this high look from the back of the seat. You will see the motor and transmisson.
If you choose to try to repair the cable you will need to heat the metal in either the transmission or motor and slide the plastic parrt of the cable in. Then while holding it move the switch and make sure the cable grabs. Sometimes you will have to do both sides at the motor and transmission. I had to do both on both of my cars. I did this today thats where this post is coming from.



Before repairing the cable.



After repairing the cable.



Before repair at transmission



After repair.

If you want to replace the cable you will have to slide the big plastic piece off the inside to remove the screws holding the transmission to the seat. Also remove the clip on the rod to slide the transmission out to gain access to the screws to remove the cable. Remove the screws in the motor from the retainer to get the cable out and replace the cable.

Install everything in reverse order.

Hope this helps someone out there.

OK, this probably is late.

I've also had PMs telling me to start with this already. So, let's start... But I want to keep this thread direct to the point, so if anyone has any suggestions, please put it in. Or if you want to PM me, I will give the credit where it is due (no worries on that) and provide sources of information as well. Outright web-links however are discouraged.

(I know this was available in the past in some other forums, but since some of them have blocked views to memberships only, let's help to keep this information free-flowing...) -> Afterall, what good is internet in the firstplace, eh?

Please note however, that I reserve the right to EDIT posts that i think are inaccurate, and DELETE any posts that I think are irrelevant without giving any notification. So, please be wary of what is written.

Thanks!






P/S:
If you're quoting directly from another source, at least, try to just give the gist of the message out...

RT Mechanics Ltd Demonstrator Car

THE PERIL - 1995 Volvo 854 T5-R



From a very early age I have always been car mad (of all types, not just Volvo’s!) and have had a big interest in motorsport etc. I followed Volvo during the BTCC years when the 850 series made it’s debut - I thought this was a great thing to show that Volvos are not boring and slow and had planned to make a copy of the white Volvo touring car at some point. Some years later, as RT started to grow, for one weekend a month I worked through a good friend in the Porsche GT 2 Lemans series for a couple of years and then went on to working in the European Le Mans series which took me all over the world with the team working on the cars before having the chance to be a mechanic at Le Mans - the best sports car race in the world which was a real treat for any petrol head - just very very tiring !!!








As RT Mechanics continued to grow and grow I had to give up the racing world and focus more on the normal day to day work. I had been thinking of having a demonstrator car for our company for some years and as we slowly found our way in the small world of Volvo modifications, I thought it would be a good route to take to show the Volvo world what we can do with these much loved cars.

I have never carried out such a big project on a car before so building The Peril has been a great experience for me. Even through the hard times its still been great, and I dread to think how many hours I have spent planning and working on the car over the last three years - all the work has mainly been carried out by me after work or over weekends - the wife has been a great supporter too which helped.

This is the story of our demo car :


Introducing “The Peril” (Volvo 854 Yellow T5-R)

When I first found the peril it had been well looked after in its life but had the usual items needing attention. Unfortunately the last owner of the car had not been very mechanically minded and had decided to drive for 20 miles with no coolant in !! A new engine and heater matrix/radiator etc was found while I planned my approach on the demonstrator!!





I am not sure the purist’s amongst you will like what I have done to the unsuspecting original T5-R but the project was not designed to make it a show winner for the originality. The demonstrator is designed to show what you can do with a Volvo that is a bit different to the route everyone else takes and also to have some fun along the way.
My first task was to look into improving the looks and general set up of the car – I fitted new wheels (I spotted another yellow T5-R saloon on the net that had the Volvo 18 inch Pegasus alloy wheels fitted and I loved the simple design so had to have them thanks to the Nordic car company), and started looking into replacing the terrible brakes and standard suspension - through a bit of research I found by far the best route was a Volvo strut brace and a AP kit for the front and Koni FSD kit with Eibach springs (which was a very new kit at the time) so was just a trial that worked out very well at first. I had also poly bushed the front wishbone arms with Powerflex poly bushes and of course the top engine mount bush. I also brought a few carbon fibre parts - a lower lip spoiler, a number plate surround, throttle body cover and a spark plug cover just to change the look slightly.



I had seen mentioned many times on the American forums that the up-rated anti roll bars were available for the 850 along with adjustable anti roll bar link rods so was very keen to try some before deciding to advise customers if it was a worthwhile modification to do. The kit arrived and I was keen to try them out - I was very surprised at how much better the car handled – it was one of the best kits I’ve brought for the car (apart from the AP brakes!).





The AP Kit gave me the stopping power the 850 should always have had - even on a standard car the brakes are not great so was I very pleased with them. At this stage I also bought a 19 T turbo and was going to use this but as my thoughts grew I decided to go bigger to see how much power I could get from the car to learn what works and what does not.

I have made some great friends in the Volvo tuning world, mainly in Sweden. I’ve learnt a lot from their approach to what needs to be done to the engine, ie chassis and brakes etc when developing a high horse-power engine. Most of their tuned Volvo engine’s run at a genuine 500 plus hp, which is a rare number in an 850 especially in the UK !! so thought it would be great to do something special with the Peril. I also wanted to focus on keeping the Peril reliable and strong - I did not want to build an engine that would break every time out and my aim is to make as many shows and events as I can. I have planned to do the Brighton speed trials - I have been going to these shows for years and have always longed to see a Volvo have a go.

My plan has always been to be 100% completely open and honest with the project as it goes along sharing the good times and the bad, and what ever power figures I can make they will be 100 % proven. I’ve always found it strange when you see people spending a small fortune on their cars and don’t have a proper bhp and ftlb torque figure with a graph to prove it! Its very easy to say “my car has *** plus hp” - but would always be great to see it proved!!


Autronic ECU (SM4)/CDI


I have a great friend in the tuning world in the UK who I caught the bug of tuning from and I have learnt a huge amount from him (Mark Shead of MA Developments). Mark has a reputation that is highly regarded as being one of, if not the best in his field of tuning mostly Evo and the Cosworth brand. Five years ago MA Developments became the largest Autronic dealer in the world for their excellent stand alone ECU’s so I thought that with what I had planned in power output this would be great to use to handle the power and have complete control of the ECU and mapping.



I knew the Autronic ECU (SM4) route would not be for everyone, but again if you look at all the high power Volvo’s in Sweden you will see them using the same stand alone type of unit for a very good reason - at this level the standard ECU is not able to handle this kind of power safely enough. You could of course run this system alongside the Volvo ECU and electrics but I did not see the point in still having the bulb failure warning light and cruise control etc. The SM4 has its own self diagnostic system which is extremely helpful in case of a problem – it can be accessed by any PC with the SM4 software. The last thing I wanted to do was risk all the time, money and effort I have put into the car to skimp on the main heart of the car. This also meant I could also do away with the air mass metre which is quite a restriction in terms of air flow and performance.

The SM4 has great features as standard such as traction control, launch control and flat shift - once a sensor is fitted to the clutch pedal you can change gear without lifting from the throttle - all of which would be an extra module to buy in other makes such as Motec – with the SM4, only a switch and a sensor is added to activate it.

I started to learn how to map the car myself with the aid of Mark Shead (the best Autronic mapper in the world and who has mapped many cars all over the world). I had always wanted to learn about mapping, but of course never wanted to tune / map a customers car before I had properly tested it on our own car. Also at the time, it was and still is a UK first for Autronic SM4 on a 5 cylinder Volvo. All the wiring for the unit was done by myself, again some thing I had never done before so at first I ran the car on the SM4 alongside the Volvo ECU’s (my T5-R was still an auto back then)!!

I read the Autronic manual and started to teach myself about how the system works and what would be needed to make a five cylinder system work. At the same time I wanted to hide as much wiring as possible. I needed to make the system neat and also accessible for if the engine had to come out.

As the Peril was always going to be run at high boost, I did not want to run into problems with a spark blow out, so due to the high boost pressures, I also brought the Autronic 500R CDI unit which removes the need for a distributor cap and HT leads so I could now run an individual coil on each spark plug. I didn’t have to search too hard for the correct coils to use - 960/V90 coils would be just fine.



Change from Automatic to Manual Gearbox

I ran the car for a couple of months like this while I sorted out my wiring loom for the rest of the SM4. I had also decided to make the car a manual at the same time as the power level I had planned would be too much for the autobox so decided it would have to go - I had only seen this done by a friend in the USA. He had a great write up on how carry out the change so a donor car was sourced and the pedal box/centre console/gear cables/flywheel/gearbox and new master cylinder clutch slave was obtained. At this stage I also added a gripper diff which a customer had wanted us to try and then fit one to his car – I was very impressed at how much nicer the car was to drive and control the power. With reducing the torque steer it made the car so much more drivable so I knew this was the diff for me. I brought a new gripper and had the ramp angle made as high as possible. The diff made a few noises on full lock but I could live with that as the benefits of having it far outweighed this.


Getting starter under the Bonnet…

After a few wiring changes the swop was made and I decided to start work on making under the bonnet a lot neater - I removed the standard Volvo wiring and mounted the new ECU inside the car - all associated wiring

First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.

Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug or a Yellow with a Purple pull tab to release. It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Then you will see the Dash Mounting Tabs on the back of the Dash.
This is what I would use to repair the Tabs. They call it Piping strap.I have a picture posted at the bottom of the post.
What you will do is cut a piece that will go up and over the tab that you can screw on each side. You will need to screw it over the clips that are there with the threads.Make sure you get it as tight as you can. Then when you got them all secured before installing make sure you install either a piece of Duct tape or Felt tape over the Tab and strap. This way you know it won't squeek or anything like that.

Then reinstall the dash.

i changed it last night with my dad cuz the old one was really messed up on the left and my dad said that if he pulled it any more that it would crack. so he left it and we've been driving with the left wheel a little towards teh rear. now we got one for really cheap at teh junk yard a changed it.

but there is one small thing. we also put on the junkyard control arms. they were different from the ones we had but the wheel sits the same. i looked it up and i found that the wagon and sedan had different ones. do you think that i should put the original ones back on? the original is one solid piece. the sedan ones are not. the end(i'm not sure what its called) is held on by three bolts. i'll take pictures to explain better.

oh and if anyone wants pictures of how we set everything up, i'll post them. or i'll do it anyways later. i just dont think that this is a very common part that gets replaced...

Good tips!
Hard to find, indeed.

Thanks to Volgrrr...

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

Ok - So I just purchased a 1998 S70 and prior to purchase I took it for a thorough inspection at my Volvo mechanic. He was very interested in my 1995 Black T5R w/ 144K miles, even though I told him there was plenty wrong with her. He hasn't even seen her yet.....He wants me to come up with a price - and he also wants to check her out. I have NO IDEA what to ask for her - so I was looking for some help. I will list what is wrong with her - and then maybe someone can get me in the right direction. remember, he is a Volvo mechanic at an independent Volvo shop.

No AC - was not dye tested. Was charged and ran cold for a little over a day.
Needs a new drivers seat belt
Missing on all cylinders (I was told by another mechanic that a tune-up would probably clear these codes)
Code 154 - EGR Flow is too High
Code 232 Long term Fuel Trim at limits at idle
Code 315 - Evap System
Makes a clicking when I am turning hard left - heard this could be fixed for a few hundred...I forgot what I was told it was.

Headliner is in bad shape
Have to jiggle key to get her in reverse - interior lights do not work (have no idea if its just a fuse)
Other minor interior issues (ashtray is stunk in open position, a piece of the shifter cracked off)

For a Volvo mechanic who has access to no labor and parts at cost, what is a fair asking price?

Heather

The other day I slammed the glove box shut as normal, and yesterday when I went to get something out, the catch wasnt working. well what to do - After a good 20 minute struggle and by pulling the screws through on the actual shelf unit, I managed to detach the 2 screws holding the hook part to the dash, upon disassembling the catch it was obvious that two pins on the universal coupling connecting to the catch had broken.
the fix - to replace the pins with two 3.5mmx25 self tapping screws. two holes 2.5mm dia were drilled, and two self tappers were screwed into the holes, they were cut at the same length as the originals with a grinding disc on a dremel drill. the whole assembly was rebuilt and is working perfectly.
Grendel

Tightening torques apply to lubricated screws and nuts. Lubricate degreased components prior to installation.

COMPONENTS - NM
Exhaust manifold, cylinder head side - 24
Exhaust manifold - heat shield(Turbocharger (TC)) - 20
(Other) - 15
Exhaust pipe - turbocharger (TC)(stud screw) - 20
(lock nut) - 25
Exhaust system, front / rear pipe - 25
Exhaust system, pipe to exhaust manifold(stud screw) - 25
(nut) - 30
Fuel rail - 10
Cylinder head
stage 1 - 20
stage 2 - 60
stage 3 - 130°
Intake pipe - 17
Camshaft carrier cover - 17
Camshaft pulley - 20
Timing belt, idler pulley - 24
Timing belt, tensioner damping unit - 24
Timing belt, tension pulley (1992-1993) - 40
(1994) - 30
Knock sensor (KS) - 20
Radiator - 30
Coolant pump - 20
Carrier plate
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 50°
Torque control arm
stage 1 - 50
stage 2 - 90°
Torque converter ........ - 50
Oil trap - 15
Oil plug (to oil pan) - 35
Oil pump - 10
Oil pressure switch - 25
Screw for cover, piston cooling - 17
Flywheel
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 65°
Vibration damper, centre nut - 180
Vibration damper flanged screw
stage 1 - 25
stage 2 - 30°
Throttle spindles, intake manifold - 1
Spark plug (do not lubricate) - 25

The Very first thing you will need to do is disconnect the battery. Make sure you have your radio code. If not get it from the Dealer.

First start on the drivers side by removeing the the little round cap in the end of the dash.It is by the door on the end of the dash. Then remove the screw under the cap and remove the cover. Then you will see another screw that goes into the body by the windsheild. Next remove the speaker cover then the speaker. Push in the center of the clip one click then remove the clip. Next remove all the Vents by carefully prying them from the side of the vent in the middle.Then remove all the screws in the top of the vent holes.And remove the 2 screws in the hole by the speedo cluster. Next move to the passenger side.Remove the speaker cover and speaker on the passenger side.There is also a screw that will need to be removed. Next you will need to remove the glovebox insert.remove all the torxes screws around the insert. Then remove the door arms.There is a little hole in the door to slide a small screwdriver into to help remove the are. Then you need to remove the 4 10mm screw that go across the top of the glove box area.They screw into the Air bag. Remove the plug for the Air bag. Then the entire top part of the dash should come off. Then you can unlatch the speedo assembly and remove it. If it is a turbo you will need to remove a vaccum hose from the back of the speedo cluster if it has a turbo guage.

Then you can replace all the bulbs.

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while.
The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.

I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.

This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.

The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?

What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor?
Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?

Help me out here, guys! Send me some thoughts on this!
Pinning this problem would make this the only Volvo site on the net that has a real cure for the problem!

First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.


Hope this helps someone.

This is how I do it with minimal damage.Push down on the top of the door and look in the middle.You should be able to see where the metal latch comes out of the dash.You need to get in there with a screwdriver and start breaking small peices out of the glove box insert in the dash.Start from the metal latch and work out.You will expose the 2 screws that hold the latch in.When you have enough plastic broke you can use a philips screwdriver to remove the screws.Then the door will open.Then you will have to take the door apart to finish opening the latch.The only damage left when you are done is a little plastic broke behind the glovebox door.You don't even have to replace the insert for the glove box.You will just have to buy the door latch kit.

I have inserted some pics to help.The blue area is what needs to be removed.
Hope this helps.

Once compressor is off set it like the following pic and remove the 10mm screw in the middle of the pulley.

Then carefully remove the outer part of the Clutch.(There is a special tool which I didn't have I used to screw drivers but be careful)


Then either the shims will come out with the outer peice like mine did or they will be sitting on the shaft once the outer part is removed.



If you look closely the washers/shims are different thicknesses. You will need to Measure the thickness and then find one a little thinner and reinstall and check the Gap between the outer and inner part of the clutch.
I will have to find out the exact specs but I believe it needs to be .016 Cannot be more than .020.
Use a fueller gauge to measure the gap.

Have got the following codes using the homemade reader using pins 3,5 and 16 of the OBDII socketof my 1995 850.
1.2.1, 5.1.2, 2.2.3, 3.1.1.
Can anyone tell me how to clear these, so I can see if I've cured the faults?
Thanks for any help or advice!

Hi all hope you can help.
I have a 1993 850 2.5 20v auto. The gearbox mode selector switch is not lighting up or is the orange arrow. I bought the car 4 weeks ago with a faulty pnp switch (313) I replaced the pnp switch with a used but proven one and the gearbox behaves as it should changing smoothly and at the correct speeds for econ mode. I now check the fault codes and I have 313 and 114 codes. I have followed the diagnostics for fault code 114 and no faults in the wiring can be found on the checks. What I have noticed that there is a 4th wire which seams to have no current at all( white and brown in colour). Even with the failed pnp there was no warning on the dash from the orange arrow. I was wondering if this seamanly spare wire should carry a current to power the switch. Not sure where I go from here? Any help please??

It's been awhile since I've posted...but an issue with the car that no one could explain brought me right back here :-)

The car: 1996 850 T-5 Wagon 130,000 miles

The issue: CEL's pop on for running too rich, and ECU malfunction...and the car smells like burning metal. I wish I had another way to describe the smell...it's sort of a combination of burning plastic and a metal refinery.

Two mechanics have looked at it, and given me wildly different responses. One said the issue was because one of the hoses from the radiator is leaking, and the smell is antifreeze...and the Cat is clogged. I know antifreeze smell, it's definitely not that.

The other said the evap (?) system is clogged and that's producing the burning metal smell. I know that can cause the running too rich CEL...but didn't know it could cause a burning metal smell.

I also found a VERY sexy S60R with a manual...is it time to retire the 850 and get the S60R?

I have a 96 850 Turbowagon, bought 2 years ago with 80K miles on it....


The front wheels scrape the inside of the wheel wells on full stop U turns, and I feel resistance in the steering wheel as I make U turns. also, the car seems like its riding a little low in the front... I've had a full wheel alignment done by a good wheel store, they said my toe-in was 0 and reset it to spec (I forget offhand), everything else was right on. That definitely improved the handling on turns (was too neutral and vague before)... I mounted new Yokohama Avid V4S right after getting the car and the fronts were wearing very evenly prior to rotation.

so... is this wheel scraping normal on these cars? i'm using P205/55-16 which is what the car had on when I got it. I believe this is one of two optional sizes that 850 turbos were offered with at least according to Tire Rack...

is there a set of dimensions I could measure regarding ride height to see if perhaps some lam-o put shorter springs on this car? it doesn't show any such evidence, its 100% stock, the license plate frame and parking stickers seemed to indicate the original owner was a Brentwood suburban mom (carfax said 1 owner, no accidents, car traded in at Lexus dealer who put it to auction, I bought from a broker). Per door sticker, the original owner actually replaced the airbags at 10 years old per schedule (something my local shop says hardly no one ever does), they also redid the front seats with factory leather at the same time, so the interior is in very good condition, a major reason I bought this car.

I drive a 1994 Volvo 850 wagon, I love this car, but she is giving me problems lately. She cranks easily, she runs great going down the road 70 miles an hour and all of a sudden she slows down will not accelerate and by the time I come to a complete stop she dies. I have to wait a few minutes, crank her up again and she is running like nothing ever happened. She might run fine for the rest of the day , she might not. If she dies and I crank her right after she dies she will not accelerate, she acts like she is choking. Also sometimes when you drive down the road short before it happens the whole car starts shaking real bad and I know its time to pull over. She also does it sometimes when I have to come to a stop. The shaking and dieing part ...It happened a few times that I was driving her low on gas...so I try to keep her half full, didn't help.We put a new fuel pump in...didn't help....so can anybody here help...please.... Sometimes I have the feeling it gets worse if I have the blower running and the radio on...but I'm not sure about this...by the way I call her a she because of the way she is acting up...

im in need of a ac wiring diagram for an 850 with ecc can anyone point me in the right direction, ive done numerous searches with no luck

Hello everyone-

Just signed up to this forum, and while I've found tons of useful information.. I haven't really found anything that helps me.

I just finished doing a complete head job and top end rebuild. Car started right up before I took it apart a few weeks ago. Now, it will not even attempt to start.

There is definitely fuel to the rail. I ran a container to the return line and cranked it, and it filled up in about 2 seconds.

There is spark as well. I rigged up a spark plug to a metal bar that I could see while cranking.

I checked for voltage going to all of the sensors, and I'm good there also.

Every single electrical connector and vaccuum line is exactly as it should be, and all fuses are good.

Now as far as I can tell, the plugs seem dry though. Is there something that would keep the injectors from firing?

One other thing as well.. the pickup for the cam sensor may be on backwards. I've switched it around a few times with no results.

I'm also considering squirting a little ATF down the cylinders, as I read that may help.
The only thing that the car is getting now is a weak little "poof" from the exhaust. I've never heard anything like it.

Thank you so much for your input!

thanks
-David

I am new to the forum, though not to 850's since I am on my fourth. a 93. Last week I replaced my odometer gears and engine mounts, all seemed to be fine until last night. Last night about a mile from home whenever I turned a corner or made a sharp turn all indicator warning lights came on and went of when the wheel was strait. I got home and while stopped it still happened and the power steering felt like it was not working. I pulled out my drop light and checked the belt, looks fine, checked power steering fluid, it was good. Normally I would figure that is was electrical, like a plug to the guage cluster loose, yet the lack of power steering has me lost! I put 250 miles on it over the weekend. Has this happened to anyone else or do any of you have any idea of what the culprit could be? I figured it would be best to ask rather then to just start ripping stuff apart. BTW I a mechanically inclined and do all my own work. Thanks! And another thing, I alsoforgot the proceedure to turn off the maintanence light! Thanks

When i purhcased my 850 the fuel gage has always under-read 8L.

I have checked the resistance and it looks like it under-reads based on this document
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/8...rumentPanel.pdf

is there a way to finetune/adjust the resistance to make it read correctly?

I'm out of ideas on what to do with my 850. I've tried many things and it still has the same problems. I know that it's an electric problem though. It randomly stalls and always hesitates on accleration. It always jerks when I accelerate. It stalls without any signs. I know it's electrical because it does it more often when the radio is on. A few times when the radiator fan comes on the fan almost stalled the engine. I'm thinking about just taking it to a mechanic and letting him figure out what's wrong with it. I've been trying to fix it myself but I'm out of ideas. What do you guys think?

Installed New Poly Upper Engine Mount, Serp Belt, and paper MANN air filter Today.
I want that sound, which Blow Off Valve should I get?
I am wanting to get a Blow Off Valve for this GLT light turbo.
Also interested in.
Volvo Sport Tuning Short Ram Intake or IPD short ram intake.
What would you get?
Then VMS ECU upgrade, its very similar to IPD's but half the price.

I am looking tor the SPX Number of the tool that holds the Crank/Harmonic Balancer

I have looked through the SPX Catalog, but have not found it yet.

My Harmonic Balancer Bolt unsrewed itself,,, or ??? Hell, it is just GONE.

I need the number to order the tool..

Mike

Hello Gang,
My 1999 C70 is having a starting problem. The problem is that it will start for ~5 seconds go to say 1500 RPM then start dropping in steps then shuts off. It did this last week but if I did not give it any fuel with the throttle it settled down and ran. I have searched the site but not found anything but then again I maybe using the incorrect search term.
The throttle body has been replaced by Volvo ~6 months ago so that should not be the problem.
Any one else seen this with their drive by wire Volvo?

Hey guys,
I have been reading through the forums for a while now, and decided to register.
I found a 1997 Volvo 850 T5 with 210 000kms on the clock. It was neglected and abused by a young lad, who received it as a gift from his parents.
The car developed a few problems, and was driven until it could no more. It was then parked at the end of their industrial premises, and forgotten.

I spoke to the parents who felt rather awful about the car's situation. I asked them if I could make an offer for it "as is".
And they obliged saying it couldn't please them more seeing the car going into "loving hands", although there are some problems with the car.
They weren't sure about any specifics, but they said they heard that it had some sort of "gearbox problem".
Power delivery was down, and finally, the motor just wouldn't start anymore. They said they would try and find out more about the car's ailments though.

But I have a rather good feeling about this car. One of the topics here gave me invaluable information regarding the starting issue.
I will probably get this car for a very good price, seeing as the owners just want to see the car get the attention it needs.
I was just wondering, is this car OBDII compliant, and can I use my VAG-COM cable to connect VADIS to the car?
Are there any specific ailments I should look out for?
How "tough" are these cars, and what can be considered "high mileage"?
So any information anyone can give me regarding these cars would be appreciated.

The only pictures I have are these,





Thanks in advance!

i have a volvo s40 t4 1998 reg. it has full service history and has now accomplished 96k.

the problem i have noticed is, when i pull away, there is a creaking noise, and it seems to come from the front offside of the car, and its only when i initially pull away from standing point or when i pull my foot off the accelerator whilst changing gears and apply my foot back onto it.i initially thought the springs or the shox were in need of attention, but having inspected them, they seem to be ok. now i am aware that usually the cam belt is in need of change around the mileage my car has reached, and having inspected the belt, it has signs of wear. a very small groove throughout the middle of the belt and small cracks appearing on the inside. i'm no mechanic, but the noise which only appears when i drive from standing or accelerate away (which is an intermediate creaking noise, not a long sustained scream)could this be anything to do with the belt/tensioner?

any cheap prices on belts/tensioners in the uk?

Can anyone tell me or show in a picture or PDF where is the torque convector wiring located? and what should I be looking for once I am there?

Thanks




BTW
NEW PNP aligned correctly.

Before I put in the new PNP switch: I only got a A1-0313 code - PNP Switch
After I put in the nee PNP switch:
I get:
0313 - PNP Switch,
0322 - Wrong Gear Value
0332 - SL Solenoid Open or CM Fault
0323 - Slipping Lock Up

I thing 0313, 0322 are the same because if it thinks the PNP is bad 0313, it will think it is in the wrong gear 0322

Also, If there is a open in the Solenoid the it wont go into lock up

Any one with a serious idea?

I have a 1995 Volvo 850

When I plug the male test connector into the A1 and A3 sockets with the key in the # II the LED glows a bit.

The A2 does not, so my though is that it's not suppose to glow at all.

Does anyone know for sure?

This will help with this post:
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t30280-850-wit...-pnp-switch.htm

So I made the mistake 5 years ago of buying a Volvo 850 without a Turbo. Now I have one of my own as of today. Its not the cleanest 850 and it has a few quirks but I know that I can fix all of those small quirks with your collective help. I will get more into all that later on. For now, here is a pic of it. Its a 97.

The driver's side wiper on my 850 GLT loses contact with the windshield about halfway through its sweep. I installed brand new wiper blades and have tried to adjust the arm myself -- no luck. I tightened the bolt at the bottom of the arm and checked to make sure that all the springs, etc. are in place -- still no luck. Any advice/ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, HMK22

MAF is plugged in, fuel pressure is good. I read the computer and i got the following codes:

p0116 Engine Coolant Temp Circuit Range/Performance
p0300 Random Multiple Cylinder misfire


Then i got p0302 p0304 p0305 .... codes but they were blank with no description but they are just random cylinder misfires.

Measured resistance of all injectors they are all at 16.1 - 16.3...

Trying to swap the temp coolant sensor right now with a one that i know works... damn t screws!!

If anyone has suggestions please share!! =)

Thought I would post this as I couldn't find the item in the Manual when I need it - was looking under "Fuel door/cap" and "Gas door/cap" and even "Emergency" in the Index (totally worthless). It is found in a section entitled "In Case of Emergency" that is apparently not included in the index. (Gee, where am I going to look "in an emergency"? I was always taught the Index!)

the 850 has an emergency/ Manual Release cable accessible from the access flap for the tail lights on the same side as the gas cap/access. The cable ends in a ring - about 1.5 inch diameter and lays along that quarter panel wall. You should be able to easily see/reach it - but it not color coded, merely a nice aluminum. Pull it toward the rear of the car to release the door lock.

As I was driving long distance and rather in need and freaking out, I ended up pulling the trunk liner from the frame to find the cable! Crap.

There is a comment about this on the Matthew's Volvo Site in the forums 1/2 to 3/4 down, but I couldn't find a mention on this site. (And since I've seen many a question about the Black Ice/freeze conditions indicator ....)

OK, I have had this problem for awhile, say 4 weeks.

In the morning the starter cranks slowly, especially if it was a cold night. As the day warmed the starter would crank normal speed. After awhile it didn't matter if it was cold in the morning or not. Starter cranked slowly, sounding like a dying battery, but car always started. Then this would happen all day long. Sometimes by the end of the day the starter cranked at full speed and then would be fine many more starts.

See I am a sales rep and I start the car at least 10+ times as day.

So I finally decided that the battery was probably shorting between cells, it was three years old, and I installed a new battery.

No change. Randomly starts quickly, and randomly starts very slowly like it almost won't start.

So I am wondering if this is a potential starter issues or could there be a conectivity issue somewhere. IF there is a loose connection or corroded connection where would be a place to look? Battery connections are perfect.

All help is greatly appreciated.

1996 Volvo 850 Platinum Turbo Wagon

Thanks
Ray

will a blower resistor from a 98 volvo s70 work on a 95 850? it looks exactly the same and the connectors are exactly the same even down to the color of the wires on the connectors

Okay I have posted another thread saying engine will stall after start up. But since I bought the car from the customer I experience one heck of a scary moment. Well before I tried to diagnose the stalling problem after start up which wont start until 4-5 tires or let the key off for a few mins. That happened today after re-fueling. Then while coming back from dinner, driving on the highway around 60mph. Engine starts to feel jerky, like the vehicle is pulling back. So after a mile later, started to get worst, I lost control of the engine power cannot accelerate, vehicle is losing speeds. I put on hazards, pull over to the side of the road. And when at a complete stop, engine cut off. Took me two tries to get the engine fire up. And had to wait for traffic, while on the way home the 854 felt fine. No stalls.

This is the items I think might causing it:

Fuel Pump
Fuel Pump Relay
Battery cable? Postive (heard 850 postive cable is known to have defects)



I was going to drive it to work to diagnose it tommorow, but now is NO WAY!

btw no MIL, havnt check for DTC. Bought the car for 2200k at 122k miles.


I also looked at one of the threads in this 850 section. Cam Sensor might also be the problem?

how many ac temp sensors are there in a 850 with ecc and where would they be located? im assuming somewhere in the vents but not to sure.

Dear Volvo-Forums,

I own a 95 Volvo 850 GLT. I bought it off a family near my hometown. It was fairly cheap and I knew it had several problems. The major one is the oil leak, which I just had fixed today. I also had some other major/minors fixes here and there. I drove it home, went in the house for about 10 minutes, and went back out started it up and a red warning light comes on about two miles down the road, then goes off, comes on, and goes off, repeating this at random. It's kind of weird, almost as it has a mind of it's own. I am trying to figure out what the light means. It is a red light, with a black fan in the middle and squiggly lines under it. (the air works fine, heat and A/C) If anyone is familiar with it let me know as soon as possible.

Thank you

hey everyone well im new to all this and barely finding out how all this works so yep lol
well the problem with my 1994 VOLVO 850, SEDAN , FWD, IS THAT ANYTIME I STEP ON THE
BRAKES HARD, THE (ABS) LIGHT TURNS ON OR WHEN I JUST PRESS ON THE BRAKES A FEW TIMES AND
THE LIGHT ALWAYS TURNS OFF WHEN I TURN THE CAR OFF N COMES BACK ON WHEN EVER I BRAKE AS DESCRIBED, BRAKES ARE GOOD SO ANY IDEAS , AND THANKS IN ADVANCE TO EVERYONE AND I APRECIATE YOUR HELP

Have got the following codes using the homemade reader using pins 3,5 and 16 of the OBDII socketof my 1995 850.
1.2.2, 5.1.2, 2.2.3, 3.1.1.
Can anyone tell me how to clear these, so I can see if I've cured the faults?
Thanks for any help or advice!

this problem started a couple of months ago, my ac blower would only come on sometimes, and when i started the car the lights on the ecc panel would flash. so i got a used ecc from the jy for 40 bucks, didnt fix it, same prob so i took the used ecc back and they gave me another one and still the prob was there, what could cause the blower to only come on sometimes? when its on i can control the speed of the motor so i dont think its the resistor. or can the resistor cause it to not come on at all? and also i replaced the motor with a new one and it still just comes on when it wants. also if i wire up the motor direct it works fine
has any one else had this prob? and what did you do to fix it?

Hello,

I'm new to this forum and ran across it while doing a few Google searches to figure out how to fix this problem. I drive a 96 850 and have run into some electrical problems.

My blinkers work sometimes, but not all the time. If they aren't working, and I run over a bump in the road, they might start working (i.e. while changing lanes). However, my emergency flashers work fine and seem unaffected.

My thinking is that the best way to address this problem is with a new turn signal switch lever, but I don't want to spend the money if that isn't the problem. I realize the relay is in the emergency flasher switch, but since those are working I don't think it is that relay. I suspect an open circuit somewhere between the turn signal lever and the signal relay.

I need to do this ASAP because I need a brake and light inspection to revive my car (salvage title) in the next two weeks before the registration is past due.

I appreciate all suggestions!

I've been replacing the climate control with used ones from ebay. I had luck with one for a while then had smoke and the smell of burning electric and it failed...double orange lights of death and the blower stopped working. I replaced with another but it still doesn't work. I suspect possibly the blower transistor or resistor but I haven't a clue about this stuff. I am not particularly handy with car repairs...but I did replace these units myself..those were easy...not sure about soldering.

A guy at a shop bypassed the climate control somehow and confirmed that the blower motor still works so it must be something else that causes it not to come on.

Have any of you been through problems with your climate control and successfully fixed them?

Hello Everyone, I'm a newbie to the forum.

I purchased a 1996 850 wagon mid last year. Recently, the Odometer and Tripometer stopped working.

The Speedometer does still work, however.


Now, i have done some minimal research, and have read that for some it was the Odometer Cable and for others it was the "gears" in the Odometer that need replaced.

How do I know which direction to take?
Any suggestions/pointers?

Thank you all in advance!

My speedometer intermittently works. How can I correct this?

Hi,
I have found a set of factory volvo mags (15") for my 850 wagon from a S70. Does anyone know if these have the same offset and PCD for the wheel-nuts?

Thanks in advance,

James