Volvo 850 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Good tips!
Hard to find, indeed.

Thanks to Volgrrr...

Tightening torques apply to lubricated screws and nuts. Lubricate degreased components prior to installation.

COMPONENTS - NM
Exhaust manifold, cylinder head side - 24
Exhaust manifold - heat shield(Turbocharger (TC)) - 20
(Other) - 15
Exhaust pipe - turbocharger (TC)(stud screw) - 20
(lock nut) - 25
Exhaust system, front / rear pipe - 25
Exhaust system, pipe to exhaust manifold(stud screw) - 25
(nut) - 30
Fuel rail - 10
Cylinder head
stage 1 - 20
stage 2 - 60
stage 3 - 130°
Intake pipe - 17
Camshaft carrier cover - 17
Camshaft pulley - 20
Timing belt, idler pulley - 24
Timing belt, tensioner damping unit - 24
Timing belt, tension pulley (1992-1993) - 40
(1994) - 30
Knock sensor (KS) - 20
Radiator - 30
Coolant pump - 20
Carrier plate
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 50°
Torque control arm
stage 1 - 50
stage 2 - 90°
Torque converter ........ - 50
Oil trap - 15
Oil plug (to oil pan) - 35
Oil pump - 10
Oil pressure switch - 25
Screw for cover, piston cooling - 17
Flywheel
stage 1 - 45
stage 2 - 65°
Vibration damper, centre nut - 180
Vibration damper flanged screw
stage 1 - 25
stage 2 - 30°
Throttle spindles, intake manifold - 1
Spark plug (do not lubricate) - 25

This it how you repair the seat back cable. I will also explain how to replace the cable as well.

You will need to remove the Lumbar adjustment knob. Unscrew as far as you can. Then pull out and unscrew till it stops then one more time pull and unscrew. The washer part under the knob pulls right off. It will look like this.


Then you will need to cut the 4 metal hogrings in the seam where the front and back of the leather meet.





Also you will have to remove the seat switch panel. When you do so on the back of the panel there should be a red plastic clip. Install that where I have shown in the picture. Failure to do so may cause the seat air bag to go off if that metal piece is hit while messing with the seat. If your clip is missing find something plastic fairly thick to install there.


Sometimes it is easiest to get to them from the back seat area.
Next unfold the leather from the plastic pieces on the ends. There is little hooks that hold the leather.



Next start sliding the leather up the seat back slowly and carefully. There is 4 more hog rings you will need to cut. In the picture they are located in the little holes you see where the metal rod is. They go around the metal rod in the leather and to the rod in the foam.



Also while sliding the leather up you will have to unhook little hooks from the back side that help keep the leather tight around the rear pocket of the seat.



The white stuff in the middle is the heating element for the seat heaters.

Once you get the leather this high look from the back of the seat. You will see the motor and transmisson.
If you choose to try to repair the cable you will need to heat the metal in either the transmission or motor and slide the plastic parrt of the cable in. Then while holding it move the switch and make sure the cable grabs. Sometimes you will have to do both sides at the motor and transmission. I had to do both on both of my cars. I did this today thats where this post is coming from.



Before repairing the cable.



After repairing the cable.



Before repair at transmission



After repair.

If you want to replace the cable you will have to slide the big plastic piece off the inside to remove the screws holding the transmission to the seat. Also remove the clip on the rod to slide the transmission out to gain access to the screws to remove the cable. Remove the screws in the motor from the retainer to get the cable out and replace the cable.

Install everything in reverse order.

Hope this helps someone out there.

These are Volvo instructions.
Remove
The oil dipstick and its pipe.
The splashguard under the engine.

Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
Release the oil cooler from the sump.Hang up at the rear.
Remove the screw from the bracket for the fuel line.


Removing the oil sump(oil pan)

Slacken off all screwsholding the oil sump.
Remove all screws except fro four.
It is reccommended that four screws in the corners of the sump are left in place
Carefully tap the sump with a rubber mallet until the joint and its liquid gasket releases.
Remove the remaining screws.
Remove the sump.

Cleaning

Clean the gasket surfaces on the oil sump and cylinder block.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and gasket solvent P/N 1161440

Warning Use a fume hood or extractor when using gasket solvent.(Fan if inside a garage)

Installing the oil pan

Apply liquid gasket P/N 1161 059-9 to the sump use roller P/N 951 2767 (Or mini roller from hardware store)

Install new o-rings
The oil sump.
Secure it loosely with a few screws.
Then the remaining screws.


Press the pump against the transmission
Tighten the screws (1),(2),(3) and (4) to 3Nm.

First tighten the screws (5) to 25Nm.
Then tighten to 48 Nm.
Tighten all screws in the sump joint to 17 Nm.
Start at the transmisson and continue fowards in pairs.
Install the screw for the bracket for the fuel line.
Connect the oil cooler to the sump.
Use new o-rings.
Reinstall the pipe to the subframe.

Install
A new oil filter
The oil drain plug with a new o-ring
The dipstick and its pipe also use a new o-ring.


Note: check that all the o-rings are positions are correctly.

Fill the engine oil.
Run the engine to operating temp.
Check for oil leaks from the sump or the oil cooler.
Install the splash sheild under the engine.
Check the oil level.Top it off if needed.

Some more notes:
You may have to support the Right side of the engine and drop the subframe a little to get the pan out.

Have someone help you when installing the pan and watch the o-rings to make sure they do not fall while installing the pan.

Make sure when the pan is off you remove the pipe in the oil pan and replace those o-rings at the same time when you have it apart.

Also make sure you remove the oil pick up tube and replace that o-ring.

I think that is about all.
If there is anymore quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry but I don't have the part# for the o-ring kit but the dealer sells it as a kit.

Ok - So I just purchased a 1998 S70 and prior to purchase I took it for a thorough inspection at my Volvo mechanic. He was very interested in my 1995 Black T5R w/ 144K miles, even though I told him there was plenty wrong with her. He hasn't even seen her yet.....He wants me to come up with a price - and he also wants to check her out. I have NO IDEA what to ask for her - so I was looking for some help. I will list what is wrong with her - and then maybe someone can get me in the right direction. remember, he is a Volvo mechanic at an independent Volvo shop.

No AC - was not dye tested. Was charged and ran cold for a little over a day.
Needs a new drivers seat belt
Missing on all cylinders (I was told by another mechanic that a tune-up would probably clear these codes)
Code 154 - EGR Flow is too High
Code 232 Long term Fuel Trim at limits at idle
Code 315 - Evap System
Makes a clicking when I am turning hard left - heard this could be fixed for a few hundred...I forgot what I was told it was.

Headliner is in bad shape
Have to jiggle key to get her in reverse - interior lights do not work (have no idea if its just a fuse)
Other minor interior issues (ashtray is stunk in open position, a piece of the shifter cracked off)

For a Volvo mechanic who has access to no labor and parts at cost, what is a fair asking price?

Heather

OK, this probably is late.

I've also had PMs telling me to start with this already. So, let's start... But I want to keep this thread direct to the point, so if anyone has any suggestions, please put it in. Or if you want to PM me, I will give the credit where it is due (no worries on that) and provide sources of information as well. Outright web-links however are discouraged.

(I know this was available in the past in some other forums, but since some of them have blocked views to memberships only, let's help to keep this information free-flowing...) -> Afterall, what good is internet in the firstplace, eh?

Please note however, that I reserve the right to EDIT posts that i think are inaccurate, and DELETE any posts that I think are irrelevant without giving any notification. So, please be wary of what is written.

Thanks!






P/S:
If you're quoting directly from another source, at least, try to just give the gist of the message out...

RT Mechanics Ltd Demonstrator Car

THE PERIL - 1995 Volvo 854 T5-R



From a very early age I have always been car mad (of all types, not just Volvo’s!) and have had a big interest in motorsport etc. I followed Volvo during the BTCC years when the 850 series made it’s debut - I thought this was a great thing to show that Volvos are not boring and slow and had planned to make a copy of the white Volvo touring car at some point. Some years later, as RT started to grow, for one weekend a month I worked through a good friend in the Porsche GT 2 Lemans series for a couple of years and then went on to working in the European Le Mans series which took me all over the world with the team working on the cars before having the chance to be a mechanic at Le Mans - the best sports car race in the world which was a real treat for any petrol head - just very very tiring !!!








As RT Mechanics continued to grow and grow I had to give up the racing world and focus more on the normal day to day work. I had been thinking of having a demonstrator car for our company for some years and as we slowly found our way in the small world of Volvo modifications, I thought it would be a good route to take to show the Volvo world what we can do with these much loved cars.

I have never carried out such a big project on a car before so building The Peril has been a great experience for me. Even through the hard times its still been great, and I dread to think how many hours I have spent planning and working on the car over the last three years - all the work has mainly been carried out by me after work or over weekends - the wife has been a great supporter too which helped.

This is the story of our demo car :


Introducing “The Peril” (Volvo 854 Yellow T5-R)

When I first found the peril it had been well looked after in its life but had the usual items needing attention. Unfortunately the last owner of the car had not been very mechanically minded and had decided to drive for 20 miles with no coolant in !! A new engine and heater matrix/radiator etc was found while I planned my approach on the demonstrator!!





I am not sure the purist’s amongst you will like what I have done to the unsuspecting original T5-R but the project was not designed to make it a show winner for the originality. The demonstrator is designed to show what you can do with a Volvo that is a bit different to the route everyone else takes and also to have some fun along the way.
My first task was to look into improving the looks and general set up of the car – I fitted new wheels (I spotted another yellow T5-R saloon on the net that had the Volvo 18 inch Pegasus alloy wheels fitted and I loved the simple design so had to have them thanks to the Nordic car company), and started looking into replacing the terrible brakes and standard suspension - through a bit of research I found by far the best route was a Volvo strut brace and a AP kit for the front and Koni FSD kit with Eibach springs (which was a very new kit at the time) so was just a trial that worked out very well at first. I had also poly bushed the front wishbone arms with Powerflex poly bushes and of course the top engine mount bush. I also brought a few carbon fibre parts - a lower lip spoiler, a number plate surround, throttle body cover and a spark plug cover just to change the look slightly.



I had seen mentioned many times on the American forums that the up-rated anti roll bars were available for the 850 along with adjustable anti roll bar link rods so was very keen to try some before deciding to advise customers if it was a worthwhile modification to do. The kit arrived and I was keen to try them out - I was very surprised at how much better the car handled – it was one of the best kits I’ve brought for the car (apart from the AP brakes!).





The AP Kit gave me the stopping power the 850 should always have had - even on a standard car the brakes are not great so was I very pleased with them. At this stage I also bought a 19 T turbo and was going to use this but as my thoughts grew I decided to go bigger to see how much power I could get from the car to learn what works and what does not.

I have made some great friends in the Volvo tuning world, mainly in Sweden. I’ve learnt a lot from their approach to what needs to be done to the engine, ie chassis and brakes etc when developing a high horse-power engine. Most of their tuned Volvo engine’s run at a genuine 500 plus hp, which is a rare number in an 850 especially in the UK !! so thought it would be great to do something special with the Peril. I also wanted to focus on keeping the Peril reliable and strong - I did not want to build an engine that would break every time out and my aim is to make as many shows and events as I can. I have planned to do the Brighton speed trials - I have been going to these shows for years and have always longed to see a Volvo have a go.

My plan has always been to be 100% completely open and honest with the project as it goes along sharing the good times and the bad, and what ever power figures I can make they will be 100 % proven. I’ve always found it strange when you see people spending a small fortune on their cars and don’t have a proper bhp and ftlb torque figure with a graph to prove it! Its very easy to say “my car has *** plus hp” - but would always be great to see it proved!!


Autronic ECU (SM4)/CDI


I have a great friend in the tuning world in the UK who I caught the bug of tuning from and I have learnt a huge amount from him (Mark Shead of MA Developments). Mark has a reputation that is highly regarded as being one of, if not the best in his field of tuning mostly Evo and the Cosworth brand. Five years ago MA Developments became the largest Autronic dealer in the world for their excellent stand alone ECU’s so I thought that with what I had planned in power output this would be great to use to handle the power and have complete control of the ECU and mapping.



I knew the Autronic ECU (SM4) route would not be for everyone, but again if you look at all the high power Volvo’s in Sweden you will see them using the same stand alone type of unit for a very good reason - at this level the standard ECU is not able to handle this kind of power safely enough. You could of course run this system alongside the Volvo ECU and electrics but I did not see the point in still having the bulb failure warning light and cruise control etc. The SM4 has its own self diagnostic system which is extremely helpful in case of a problem – it can be accessed by any PC with the SM4 software. The last thing I wanted to do was risk all the time, money and effort I have put into the car to skimp on the main heart of the car. This also meant I could also do away with the air mass metre which is quite a restriction in terms of air flow and performance.

The SM4 has great features as standard such as traction control, launch control and flat shift - once a sensor is fitted to the clutch pedal you can change gear without lifting from the throttle - all of which would be an extra module to buy in other makes such as Motec – with the SM4, only a switch and a sensor is added to activate it.

I started to learn how to map the car myself with the aid of Mark Shead (the best Autronic mapper in the world and who has mapped many cars all over the world). I had always wanted to learn about mapping, but of course never wanted to tune / map a customers car before I had properly tested it on our own car. Also at the time, it was and still is a UK first for Autronic SM4 on a 5 cylinder Volvo. All the wiring for the unit was done by myself, again some thing I had never done before so at first I ran the car on the SM4 alongside the Volvo ECU’s (my T5-R was still an auto back then)!!

I read the Autronic manual and started to teach myself about how the system works and what would be needed to make a five cylinder system work. At the same time I wanted to hide as much wiring as possible. I needed to make the system neat and also accessible for if the engine had to come out.

As the Peril was always going to be run at high boost, I did not want to run into problems with a spark blow out, so due to the high boost pressures, I also brought the Autronic 500R CDI unit which removes the need for a distributor cap and HT leads so I could now run an individual coil on each spark plug. I didn’t have to search too hard for the correct coils to use - 960/V90 coils would be just fine.



Change from Automatic to Manual Gearbox

I ran the car for a couple of months like this while I sorted out my wiring loom for the rest of the SM4. I had also decided to make the car a manual at the same time as the power level I had planned would be too much for the autobox so decided it would have to go - I had only seen this done by a friend in the USA. He had a great write up on how carry out the change so a donor car was sourced and the pedal box/centre console/gear cables/flywheel/gearbox and new master cylinder clutch slave was obtained. At this stage I also added a gripper diff which a customer had wanted us to try and then fit one to his car – I was very impressed at how much nicer the car was to drive and control the power. With reducing the torque steer it made the car so much more drivable so I knew this was the diff for me. I brought a new gripper and had the ramp angle made as high as possible. The diff made a few noises on full lock but I could live with that as the benefits of having it far outweighed this.


Getting starter under the Bonnet…

After a few wiring changes the swop was made and I decided to start work on making under the bonnet a lot neater - I removed the standard Volvo wiring and mounted the new ECU inside the car - all associated wiring

First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.

Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug or a Yellow with a Purple pull tab to release. It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.
Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Then you will see the Dash Mounting Tabs on the back of the Dash.
This is what I would use to repair the Tabs. They call it Piping strap.I have a picture posted at the bottom of the post.
What you will do is cut a piece that will go up and over the tab that you can screw on each side. You will need to screw it over the clips that are there with the threads.Make sure you get it as tight as you can. Then when you got them all secured before installing make sure you install either a piece of Duct tape or Felt tape over the Tab and strap. This way you know it won't squeek or anything like that.

Then reinstall the dash.

i changed it last night with my dad cuz the old one was really messed up on the left and my dad said that if he pulled it any more that it would crack. so he left it and we've been driving with the left wheel a little towards teh rear. now we got one for really cheap at teh junk yard a changed it.

but there is one small thing. we also put on the junkyard control arms. they were different from the ones we had but the wheel sits the same. i looked it up and i found that the wagon and sedan had different ones. do you think that i should put the original ones back on? the original is one solid piece. the sedan ones are not. the end(i'm not sure what its called) is held on by three bolts. i'll take pictures to explain better.

oh and if anyone wants pictures of how we set everything up, i'll post them. or i'll do it anyways later. i just dont think that this is a very common part that gets replaced...

The other day I slammed the glove box shut as normal, and yesterday when I went to get something out, the catch wasnt working. well what to do - After a good 20 minute struggle and by pulling the screws through on the actual shelf unit, I managed to detach the 2 screws holding the hook part to the dash, upon disassembling the catch it was obvious that two pins on the universal coupling connecting to the catch had broken.
the fix - to replace the pins with two 3.5mmx25 self tapping screws. two holes 2.5mm dia were drilled, and two self tappers were screwed into the holes, they were cut at the same length as the originals with a grinding disc on a dremel drill. the whole assembly was rebuilt and is working perfectly.
Grendel

The Very first thing you will need to do is disconnect the battery. Make sure you have your radio code. If not get it from the Dealer.

First start on the drivers side by removeing the the little round cap in the end of the dash.It is by the door on the end of the dash. Then remove the screw under the cap and remove the cover. Then you will see another screw that goes into the body by the windsheild. Next remove the speaker cover then the speaker. Push in the center of the clip one click then remove the clip. Next remove all the Vents by carefully prying them from the side of the vent in the middle.Then remove all the screws in the top of the vent holes.And remove the 2 screws in the hole by the speedo cluster. Next move to the passenger side.Remove the speaker cover and speaker on the passenger side.There is also a screw that will need to be removed. Next you will need to remove the glovebox insert.remove all the torxes screws around the insert. Then remove the door arms.There is a little hole in the door to slide a small screwdriver into to help remove the are. Then you need to remove the 4 10mm screw that go across the top of the glove box area.They screw into the Air bag. Remove the plug for the Air bag. Then the entire top part of the dash should come off. Then you can unlatch the speedo assembly and remove it. If it is a turbo you will need to remove a vaccum hose from the back of the speedo cluster if it has a turbo guage.

Then you can replace all the bulbs.

Evaperator Replacement:
First thing you have to do is disconnect the battery.
Next you will need to remove all the freon.
Next start off by removing the wiper arms.There is a 13mm nut per arm.You may need to remove a black cover to get to the nut.
Then remove the 4 Torxes 25 screws holding the plastic cover under the the wiper arms.You will have to also remove the 2 clamps holding the rubber hoses to the plastic cover.Lift up on the front of the cover then slide it towards the front of the car to remove it.
Then under there is Either 4 torxes 30 screws or 10mm screws that hold the dash to the body of the car.Be very careful removing and tightening the screws for the dash.The dash tabs could break and then will need to be repaired or the dash will need to be replaced.Also just pull up on the pollen filter case if it has one.If not just remove the ring that is there.

Next remove the 2 heater core line that go into the firewall.Push the plastic clips on both sides of the hose in then pull on the hose to remove.
Then remove the 2 T-15 or t-20 screws going through the metal cover on the heater core where you just removed the 2 hoses from.

Next remove the A/C lines from the evaperator on the outside of the car.But before you do that remove the allen screw that holds the metal line to the body of the car behind the headlight on the right side of the car.It is towards the front of the car on the other side of the freon port.Then when you remove the A/C lines they should be able to slide since you removed the allen screw.

That should be all for under the hood for now.

Going to the inside of the car you will need:T-25 socket or bit with a screwdriver,A long T-30 socket,18mm socket with extension and ratchet,wire cutters,T-15,T-20,10mm ,12mm,13mm,1/4 drive socket.

First start off by removing the center console.If it is a 850 remove the front cubby by reoving the 2 T-25 screws then under the cover is 2 T-15 screws remove them.Unplug the black and grey plugs in the hole by the 2 T-15 screws.Then lift up the armrest and remove the black cover and remove the 2 8mm or 10mm screws.The early 850's may have T-25 screws.

The S70 remove the shifter boot cover bye pulling it towards the drivers seat with the arm rest up.Then remove the cover in the cover under the arm rest.Remove the 2 screws in there.
Unplug the 2 plugs behind the cover for the E-brake.Lift the back of the center console up first and work it out.

Next remove the radio by pushing in the little tabs on the side of the radio then they will pop out and then pull them to release the tabs all the way.Remove and unplug the radio.

The next step will depend whether you have ECC (Electronic climate control)or MCC(manual climate control)
If you have ecc then you car reach through the hole for the radio and push the climate control module from the back.Be careful put a rag on your arm.Sometimes it is stubborn and when it releases it will cut your arm.

If you have MCC then remove all 3 of the control knobs.Then under the 2 outer knobs is 2 T-25 screws.Remove them then push the outside cover out from the back and unplug the wiring.On the sides you will see one Phillips screw on each side remove them.You are done here for now.

Next remove the air bag from the steering wheel.Turn the steering wheel so that the top is to one side.There is a hole in the back of the steering wheel.Insert a long T-30 and remove the screws for the airbag.Always remove and tighten the right side screw for the air bag first.If not then the horn might not work.
Next take the little T-20 screw stored in the steering wheel.That will get screwed into the hole on top of where the bolt for the steering wheel is.It will hold the Contact reel from unrolling.
Note: Break the bolt for the steering wheel loose before installing the small screw.
Remove the bolt holding the steering wheel in.It is a 18mm head bolt.Then lift the steering wheel off.

Next remove the steering column covers.On the S70 pull up on the top one and remove it.Then loosen and remove the T-25 screws in the bottom cover.The screws go from the bottom going up.
The 850 you will have to remove 2 T-15 screws in the front part of the cover.You will need it to be long to reach the screws.That will remove the top cover.Note be careful removing the T-15 screws.Hold down on the top cover while removing then or the tabs might break off the top cover.
Then remove the 2 T-25 screws and remove the lower cover.

Next remove the turn signal switch and the wiper switch.They are held on by 2 T-25 screws each.Next remove the SRS contact reel.Note:Be very careful the plastic is very brittle.
There is 3 screws total holding it in.Then unplug it and remove it all the way.

Next remove the lower dash panel on the left side of the car.Then look up under the dash and you should see a long red plug.It should have a tab to pull to release it.Pull it and release it.That is the main plug for the dash.
Next on the 850 you will have to remove the metal knee bolsters.There is 13mm nuts holding it in.Note:Or you can wait till you remove the dash.It is easier to remove them once the dash is out.
Pull back the cover at the bottom of the dash by the door.The sill cover that runs all the way back.Pull it off by the dash.You will see a screw holding the bottom of the dash.remove the 10mm screw.

Then go to the other side and remove the glove box assembly.Remove the T-25 screws folding it in.On the 850's unhook the glove box support arms by inserting a small screw driver in the hole.Then remove the insert.Next remove the lower dash cover on that side as well.
Also unplug the passenger side Air bag.You will see the plug.Look for an orange wrapped wire and follow to the plug.Then pull back on the sill cover again and remove the 10mm screw on that side as well.

The dash should be ready to come out.Make sure you have someone help you remove it.
You will need to leave the key out of the ignition.To get the car out of park.Look on the right side of the shifter.There is a soleniod you will need to push the soleniod back and push the button on the shifter and pull out of part.
Remove the dash.If it is turbo you will also have to unplug the line for the boost guage if the car has one.Also be careful some cars have an extra plug you will have to unplug while removing the dash.Watch while removing.

Set the dash off to the side in a safe place.

Once the dash is out of the way then remove the knee bolsters if you chose to leave them till the dash was out.

Then pull and remove the 2 black air pipes that go to the white A/C box.Then remove the wiring for the blower motor,resistor and maybe the relay if you have one.Also unlock the plastic guide holding the wiring to the case.
Cut the wire ties where the wires go across the front of the case.Let them hang for now.

On the 98 S70 and the 850 look over by the gas pedal and you will see a diaphram and a rod for the cruise contol.Undo the rod from the gas pedal.
Then remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the case to the body of the car.Lift up on the case a little then pull it towards you.
Note:On the 99 and 2000 S70 you will have to remove the gas pedal and the pedal mount from the body of the car.That will allow room for the heater core lines to pull back from the firewall.

When the case is loose pull it out some and turn the box towards the seat.Then you will see the recirc door motor located on the top of the box.Remove it by removing the 3 T-15 screws.
Then remove the rest of the T-15 screws around the smaller part of the box by where the motor was attached.There is 2 clips on the back of the box that have to come off and 1 clip under where the recirc motor was.

Once all the screws are out you can remove the upper part of the cover over the Evaperator.
Replace the evaperator.Make sure you transfer the rubber seal from the pipes to the new one.

Install the cover and everything else.When you stick the box back in make sure the heater core connection and the A/C drain are back where they belong.If the drain is not connected it will leak water into the car and flood the floor board.

ALSO leave the plastic cover on the evap pipes while installing the box back in where it belongs.Also spray some lube on the rubber grommet where the pipes go through.It will make it easier to go in.

Put everything back together in reverse order.

Once everything else in the car is together then if you decide replace the dryer.
Then connect all the pipes and put the system on Vaccum for about 1HR.

Then charge the system.



I think that is everything.I migth have forgotten some small things.
If any quiestions feel free to ask.

Sorry I don't have any pictures if I find any I will put them in the post.

Hope this helps!!!!

So I've got the problem where the engine won't start when it's been driven a while.
The engine cranks and starts, but the RPM retards/drops until it reaches 0 after about a second or two.

I've measured voltage to and from the fuel pump relay. It gets 12 volts and spits out 7.5 volts with ignition on and engine not running. This is the correct voltage, so I see no reason to suspect the relay being the culprit. Besides; I can feel the relay clicking and hear the fuel pump working when the problem occurs, meaning that they both should be working fine. That's the conclusion I've reached, let me know if you think I should investigate the relay more thoroughly.

This has led me to start thinking that the ECU is getting some bad input from one of the sensors monitoring the conditions of the engine, resulting in an incorrect fuel mixture.

The first sensor I checked was the coolant temperature sensor, which turned out to be quite correct - a couple of % lower than what the table says it should be. Could this have any effect?

What other sensors are sending important signals to the ECU, possibly contributing to bad fuel mixture? Air Mass? Air Flow? Oxygen Sensor?
Are there any vaccuum hoses or idle valve components that could cause this behaviour?

Help me out here, guys! Send me some thoughts on this!
Pinning this problem would make this the only Volvo site on the net that has a real cure for the problem!

First jack up the car safely and put on jackstands.Then remove the wheel.Remove the nut on the end of the Axle which you will need a 32mm socket I beleive.Next Remove the outer tierod.Which I think is a 18mm.Then remove the bolt for the lower balljoint.You will need a 15mm socket and a 13mm wrench.Also it will help if you remove the sway bar link.It will also help some if you undo the ABS sensor wire from its holders.Then push down on the lower control arm to remove the lower balljoint from the hub.Then pull out on the hub to back the axle out of the hub.Once that is done then you can remove the axle.The drivers side you can use a screw driver and put it between the axle and the trans. to pop the axle out. The passenger side(rightside of car) you will need to remove the support bracket that holds the axle in.It is 2 12mm bolts.Then the axle will slide out.


Hope this helps someone.

This is how I do it with minimal damage.Push down on the top of the door and look in the middle.You should be able to see where the metal latch comes out of the dash.You need to get in there with a screwdriver and start breaking small peices out of the glove box insert in the dash.Start from the metal latch and work out.You will expose the 2 screws that hold the latch in.When you have enough plastic broke you can use a philips screwdriver to remove the screws.Then the door will open.Then you will have to take the door apart to finish opening the latch.The only damage left when you are done is a little plastic broke behind the glovebox door.You don't even have to replace the insert for the glove box.You will just have to buy the door latch kit.

I have inserted some pics to help.The blue area is what needs to be removed.
Hope this helps.

Once compressor is off set it like the following pic and remove the 10mm screw in the middle of the pulley.

Then carefully remove the outer part of the Clutch.(There is a special tool which I didn't have I used to screw drivers but be careful)


Then either the shims will come out with the outer peice like mine did or they will be sitting on the shaft once the outer part is removed.



If you look closely the washers/shims are different thicknesses. You will need to Measure the thickness and then find one a little thinner and reinstall and check the Gap between the outer and inner part of the clutch.
I will have to find out the exact specs but I believe it needs to be .016 Cannot be more than .020.
Use a fueller gauge to measure the gap.

hello this is my first time posting.
i had a red 95 850 non turbo that got totaled (yesterday) and i also have a white 96 850 turbo.
i wanted to know if the catalytic converter on the red 95 850 non turbo would fit on the white 96 850 turbo, and any other parts you recommend me taking off the red one. thank you!





ps I AM ok!

It tries, but will not start. Battery is good, but there is no spark to the plugs, someone told me it could be the ignition control module.

hi my 850 needs a timing belt and a RMS just asking if anyone knows how and wether i should do this myself i grew up around cars and family are in to them so i wouldnt be on my own .

Hi all,

I am the proud owner of a Brown 1994 Volvo 850 4 valve automatic non turbo.

The thing has been solid as a rock and other than replacing the alternator and starter it hasn't given me any problems for the past year.

Until this past week. The top Radiator intake hose cracked and fell apart on me. I made a quick fix and got the hose clamped back in, but it doesn't create a tight enough seal and the coolant will eventually start spewing out.

I have picked up a Radiator off a 1996 Volvo 850 for 60 bucks that has a warranty from the wrecking yard.

Now my question is. Do i try and install it myself? With the help of an uncle who is a truck mechanic and has all the tools. Minus the lift.

or

Do i shell out the 100 dollar installation fee at the local mechanics?

Also should i replace the hoses? Do the hoses come with the clamps or do i have to buy those separate?

I would love to try and do it with the help of my uncle, but he asked if there were any online tutorials or walk throughs before we started it. Part of me wanted to grab it off the wrecking yard myself. taking it out is almost a snapshop on hot to put it back it.

Any advice would be apreciated.

Thanks!

I recently purchased a 1996 850GLT for my wife. Had been parked for 3 years. Had a radiator leak and head gasket was leaking some. Put in some Barr's for the leaks. Something somewhere got plugged and all heck broke loose. Blew out a hole in the radiator and ended up with green slimy oil.

I replaced the radiator and hoses. Filled and drained the oil 3 times to get the engine cleaned out. Also replaced spark plugs.

The car continued to overheat, and seemed to get over-pressurized as the center of the radiator cap, brand new, melted and or broke out, sending the valves and plastic into my cooling system.

I removed all hoses and the thermostat and used a power sprayer into all parts of engine, heater core, and radiator, forwards and backwards, in order to make sure all the plastic was flushed out. Put everything back together again.

It continued to overheat sporadically, temp gauge would remain in center if on the highway. If stop and go, it would go up to red and then drop back to normal, back hot, back normal...

I found that fan was not operating properly. It would only come on with the a/c. (which didn't help matters since I told my wife to put heater on high if engine began to get hot) I repaired a kinked wire on the fan switch, which didn't fix the problem. I told my wife she could take it short distances but to keep the a/c on so the fan would keep running.

The next day she called me and said she was broken down on the belt way. She said that when she started out she could not accelerate past 45. The car began to overheat, and then died completely.

I went to rescue her. I started the car and it ran fine but coolant was low. I had her follow me home as I drove the volvo. The car ran like a champ the whole way home on the beltway (approx 10 miles) except when stopped at a redlight where it started to overheat. It accelerated fine and ran smoothly. Then about a mile from home, it suddenly lost power and would not accelerate over 50. (my wife told me that a puff of smoke came out of the tailpipe when that occured) After about 400 yards of being sluggish, the car died completely.

The car would crank just fine but there was not the slightest hint of it catching at all.

After towing it home, I found it had spark, though somewhat weak, and there was no fuel pressure in the fuel rail.

I removed the injectors and pressure regulator and cleaned everything. After replacing it all, I again had pressure in the fuel rail. The fuel injector relay would click when turning ignition to position II. I could hear the fuel pump running.

Still did not run. I tried it with starting fluid. There was not the slightest hint that any combustion was occurring. I had strong spark from the coil to the coil wire and somewhat weak spark from spark plug to engine.

Upon removing plugs, I could see the pistons operating.

Using a multi meter, I found that the secondary winding test on the coil gave me very erratic readings. The rotor and distributor cap had alot of carbon on them. One of the spark plug wire connectors broke off when I went to remove it.

I went to pic-a-part and found a new coil that gave me proper readings with multi meter. also got rotor and distributor that were in good shape, good spark plug wires, a new fan relay and fuel injector relay, and an ECM just for fun. I also put the battery from my car in it and also tried it with a jumper box added also just to be sure it had enough juice.

The the cam's and crankshaft turn just fine, but there is no start. Again tried starting fluid also.

I NEED HELP!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!! Being a 1 car family with 5 kids is quite a challenge.

G'day there - I'm brand new to this forum. I have a 1996 850 that's in a world of hurt, but I'm gradually ironing out the problems. When I turn on the "Recycled Air" switch, it makes a repeating 'thump' - I have just replaced the heater core and the blower fan works fine. Any clues???

1995 855 turbo. Coming out of a valley today I got into the throttle about 805. Initial burst was good but then the car quit accelerating. I floored it to no avail. Let off to about 1/4 throttle and it took off like there was nothing wrong. That's when the CEL popped and the car almost died coming to a stop at the top of the hill. Bad initial acceleration and stumbling while at idle all the rest of the way home.

Pulled the following codes - 543, 545, 455, 555 from the A2 port.

Pulled the #5 plug but didn't notice anything wrong. Plug wires look good too.
What worries me is the " catalyst damage ".

I cleared the codes and took the car for a drive. Quick spin to the on-ramp and on the freeway. Performed well. Came off the freeway and the stumbling/very low idle reappeared. NO CEL yet.

Did my catalytic converter bite the dust?

My daughter's car is a 1996 850 wagon with 215K miles and the 2.4L non-turbo engine. She tried starting it and it wouldn't start. The engine turns over strong and all warning lights come on when turn on the key to position II, but it doesn't even sputter. I checked the spark at the coil and it was fine. I then removed the fuel pump cover and had her turn the key to pos II, but I didn't hear any noises like the pump was working. How do I determine if the fuel pump is not working or if it can be the fuel pump regulator that is bad? What else should I try to make sure it is the fuel pump? If it is the fuel pump, should I buy a Bosch pump that costs $180 or a Walbro fuel pump kit that costs $80? Should I also replace the O-ring? Thank you for any help you can give me.

Have to let her go. Tried to get her back to original condition, but ran out time and money. So I am letting her go for $800. It needs work....



Broken maifold stud,

oil pump gasket leaks.



The whole front end is new (less then six months)

New water pump and timing belt and theromstat.



Anybody interested?



Live in NE PA, Scranton, Hazleton area.

Hello all, just bought 96 850se 2.5 10v estate 155,000 miles, very pleased with car, the issue is that the cars volvo remote central locking did not work. checked fuse to find it was missing so replaced fuse and guess what? using the door lock the central locking worked, but once the fuse was fitted now the alarm and the imobilizer activates (without sound but indicators flash) and will not switch off.
Any guidance with this problem would be gratefully recieved.

Hi, all. I have been experiencing this problem for a couple of months now. Y transmission acts normal when it's cold, but after a few miles it won't downshift from 3rd gear. Even when I come to a complete stop. From a stop the engine will jus rev and start moving slowly. 3rd and 4th gear always work normal. Even if I put the shifter in low gear it won't go down. If I park it for a few hours it will worl normally for a few more miles. The arrow has been flashing ever since it started happening. A transmission shop told me that the transmission has to be rebuilt. Does it really have to be rebuilt or is there something more simple I can do to fix the problem? The shop is charging me $700 to rebuild it. The car has about 183,000 miles on it. To m knowledge the transmission has never been rebuilt.

Any help would be deeply appreciated

Hi, I just bought an 850 glt 5 speed manual with 177,00 miles on it, it has been well kept from what i can tell
But it has a rough idle at a stop and it seems to run fine while going down the highway
i pulled code 2-2-1 from the code light, and it says
*Long term fuel trim part load, Upper limit*
not sure what that means, can anyone help?

Hi,
My 1993 850 has had several incident where it will not start when the engine has been running and it is up to temperature. If you wait for a while for it to cool off, it starts right away and runs good. Any suggestions for what to look for that is temperature sensitive? I have ordered a new temperature sensor and will install that when it arrives.
Thanks for any suggestions.

Hi everyone. I just bought a '95 850GLT. I've done searching on Google, found that I have an AW50-42LE tranny (correct me if I'm wrong?). It's a quart low, I've read it calls for Dexron IIE but that is now outdated. I've read that mixing the 2 is okay in some cars, but everything Volvo specific I've read has said not to do it. Am I going to have to go to the dealer, or can I put Dex3 in there? Thanks in advance.

Hello. I have a 1996 850 nonturbo with 220,000 miles. Now I just purchased this car and have no idea what kind was used before me. Oh, and how many quarts does this car need? Thank you.

2 weeks ago I bought what i think is a 1997 Volvo 850 T5-R Wagon automatic
( my first Volvo thats not a demolition derby car ) Im not 100% its a real
T-5 R ill post some picture when I get a chance, its super clean and a blast to drive heres what i have learned so far

It had Titan wheels on it drilled and slotted rotors
The tan leather interior has no velour bolsters on it on it
It has the sport economy winter button for the shifting

i have yet to check the ecu number could that tell ?
it does have the badges in the rear but it also has an ipd badge on it that makes me wonder what she really is

contacted the Volvo dealer with the vin ## and they couldn't help said it had the b523t engine thats all they could tell me

[attachment=7685:volvo.jpeg]
[attachment=7686:volvo2.jpeg]

can you help me ?

Hi everyone, long time reader first time registerer and poster.

I have a Volvo 850 1994, don’t know if it’s a GLE or GLT or SE, don’t think it’s important. I have owned this car strait from my grandparents from 2006.

The problems I have I think are all related, eg wiring under dash.

Problem 1, solved itself, but here it is anyway: cruise control stopped working.

Problem 2, I rarely use my horn so I don’t know when it stopped working, but went to use it the other day and there was no sound, checked fuse but it was ok.

Problem 3 tacho sits at zero, occasionally (once a month) it works for a short time then returns to zero, Problem noticed since early December (before rego check) last year.

Problem 4, Speedo didn’t work for a day, but solved itself, after I fiddled with some loose wire plugs under the dash, mainly the red hinge one.

I believe its loose wires, as all the problems have occurred in the past (except for the horn) and I have fixed them by disconnecting/refitting some of the loose wires, even just giving them a wiggle. Another reason I think it’s the red wire hinge plug or somewhere close to it as when that is loose, and you wiggle it some of the dash lights (abs, engine check, hand brake, etc) go out.

Has anyone had the same or similar problems?

All help would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

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Have a '95 850 Turbo Station Wagon. Bought it used and just now discovered the factory-installed CD unit in the cargo area, underneath one of the rear hatches. Cool! I accidentally filled it from #6, but not all the way down(up) to #1. It played the first disc and in the middle of the 2nd one, I got an error "E 02" meaning on disc 2, I think. How the heck do I clear the error? I took out all the CDs, put in 6 new ones, but the error won't clear. Nothing in the driver's manual about error codes. Did all the obvious (to me) button-pushing (switch to radio; switch to tapes; turn it off, turn it back on) - nothing clears the error code. I'm all out of ideas. Help!?
Thank you.
Clueless in Seattle

IS it possible to "inspect" the timing belt for wear without a full tear down? I bought a T 5 Wagon(1997) with 195,000 miles. The car runs very well and leaks no oil. All fluids were clean and correct at purchase. I beleive the timing belt should be changed at 70,000, 140,00, 210,000 miles.

One could dangeously assume I still have 10,000 miles to go before the change.................but. I would rather be safe than sorry. After all I've got $2500 bucks tied up in this ride. Thanks for the input.

dgsaz

Hi, everyone.
I have a problem with ac that looks similar to many problems posted here. AC blows warm (slightly cooled air). I took the car to independent mechanic to evacuate, check for leaks, and recharge the ac system. He did everything and said that the pressure was good and he could not find any leak and put dye in it.
He also said that the compressor is probably not good. The problem is that compressor and evaporator were replaced a year and one month ago (part warranty expired). That sounds strange to me that compressor would fail so soon.
To add some details: when i switch on the ac i hear the click, clutch starts turning and cooler fan starts too. (lights flash for a while and then stop). Everything seems working but air is warm or slightly cool (for example if i drive on highway it becomes a bit cool).
I tried to bypass lower pressure switch..did not help.
Does anyone know how to test whether it is realy commpressor or one of switches?

My 1994 850 T5 has had an aircon problem for a while now and I probably should get it fixed but fear a big bill. The air con lights display the usual 20 sec flash error, the fan motor won't start. I've pulled the codes from the ECU. Just one code : 419 - Faulty diagnostic signal from blower fan power stage.
I did check out the fan motor and it seems fine, even tried another one but still no good. Suspect electronic issue but wondered if there may be a known common fix for this one. Thanks....

Why does this happen?

This happens almost every time I close the trunk and its rather a bother.

hi i have a 850t5 glt i have a problem with the central locking system if you lock the drivers door it wont lock the boot or dead lock but if you lock from the boot it locks all doors and boot plus you can dead lock has anyone had this problem before all help would be greatful thanks jim

hi first time using a forums site
i have just got a 1992 850 with 15 alloys on it just wondering if anyone knew where to get some aftermarket wheels for it. looked on line but none of them have the 92 as a listed car. plez help.

My dear 850 T5R engine overcooked and seased up badly.
Now looking for option; tip, rebuild, swap from other
The car is in ok original condition.

I have a Can a -94 850 T5 sedan car insight and wonder if the engine
can be fitted straight in my -95 850 T5R wagon?
The 850 T5 sedan cost less than a rebuilt engine, not mentioning all the mechanics labour on top...
Im in Aus which makes the selection pretty BAD for a T5R

Can anyone help me?
Do i need to compare the engine# to know?

sad-sad-sad to see the beast like that...

1995 Vovlo T5-R that turns over but doesn't start. The orange arrow on the dash flashes and the manual says that it is some type of transmission fault. I had a trans place hook it up and they got a neutral switch fault. Is there anything else? They cleared it out and said it didn't come back but still wouldn't start. Rarely, I can get it to start after leaving the battery disconnected for a while. I reconnect the battery and the arrow is solid and starts and runs perfect. It might work for a week and then starts all over. It's been about a month and a half and it still won't start. The nearest dealer is almost 100 miles away so I'm just trying to get it started to take it to them. Any suggestions?

Hello to all. I'm brand new to this forum as far as posting but have been searching every thread both here and several other forums that I can find regarding similar symptoms. It's beginning to sound like this is a pretty common occurrence with this model. Anyway, here's the situation....

The car is a 1993 Volvo GLT, 2.4 ltr 5 cyl non-Turbo, automatic

Symptoms:
The car takes 2-3 turns of the key to start. Once started it idles just fine. But, when you start driving giving it gas at a normal acceleration rate it wants to die out. While driving in town up to speeds of say 35 mph or so if you feather the gas pedal just right it'll come up to speed (accelerate) just fine and seems to run ok; i.e. no miss-fires, back-firing, or any other sign of bad timing etc. If however you are getting onto the freeway once you get up to about 3k rpm it'll start lagging or stalling out. If you continue to accelerate at this stage it'll will (and has) completely die. Even when that happens the car will start right back up in seconds. If you are already at 60 mph or so and then punch it the Tach will go from like 3k to 4k but there's absolutely no response in acceleration.

What we've done so far:
1.) Checked for codes
only got one....1-2-1 (Indicating a bad MAF Sensor)
2.) Replaced MAF Sensor with exact same Bosch OEM MAF Sensor
3.) Replaced TPS with a Bosch OEM exact match
4.) Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay with exact match OEM Relay
5.) Did a fuel pressure check. Got a reading of 29psi at idle. Not good! supposed to be 43psi.

So, after replacing the above items the car "seemed" to do a little better around town but still stalling out on the freeway. Even though it still does that I have checked several times and it is NOT throwing the 1-2-1 code anymore nor any others.

So my question deals with the obvious...the bad fuel pressure level. Is there any specific tests that can be done to determine if it's a bad fuel pump as opposed to a bad fuel pressure regulator? A Fuel Pressure regulator is a LOT cheaper than a new Fuel Pump and and I'd hate to waste the money on one if that money needs to go toward a Fuel Pump.

FWIW my son is paying for all this as I am not currently in a position where I can help him right now. He's a "struggling college student" and can not afford to take it to a dealership or any other mechanic for that matter and spend hundreds just in diagnosing. That's why I'm trying to glean as much info. as I can online from knowledgeable folks such as yourselves that have 1st hand experience with this and aren't trying to make money off us if ya know what I mean. I realize that this is not a one answer easy fix kind of thing. I just need some ideas/insights from folks to at least know what direction to maybe look at next.

Thanks in advance for any help you all are willing to share.

Bryan

Took car (98 V70 2.4 litre non- turbo) to shop cause chk engine light was on and got yhe following report:
1. FET 448 Air pump signal faulty P0410
2. FET 446 Air pump valve. intermittent fault leakage P0410
3. FET 442 Air pump system, intermittent fault

Was told #1 was air pump #2 was chk valve #3 was relay.
Can anyone out there give me a heads up on what an air valve is and what these codes mean? Appreciate all responses!
Thanks in advance.

Hi... my 96 has been acting like it needs a freon recharge. (on/off cold while driving, clutch clicking on/off when idling, generally lousy cold air from the vents when it works, a/c works less as the car heats up) This has been happening for a few days now... the compressor, when on, sounds fairly loud. It's a continuous noise that you can hear over the engine at idle. Car is fairly new to me (couple months) and the A/C, while not amazing, has been working.

So I went out to the store to buy a 134 charge kit and I stuck a thermometer in my vent. Best I could do on a cold engine at about 95 degrees ambient was around 67 degrees. Bought my stuff, went on a couple more errands and that's when it really started to act up after about 10 minutes. In stop and go traffic the clutch was cycling on and off every 5 seconds, I just turned it off to save wear on the compressor.

Got home, read the directions, saw that the can suggests 50-55 psi on the low port in hot weather. Attached to the port and saw 64 psi so I stopped there. At this point the vents were putting out about 80 degrees so I know the compressor was on.

I'm reading a little more online and some suggest holding the revs at 1500 - should I be doing this? Will that drive the low port PSI up or bring it down more?

Should I bleed out some pressure to get back to 55 psi?

The can says to run the car for 3 minutes, does it matter if the car has been running (in my case, 45 minutes and heat soaked) or should I do this when everything is cooled off?

My 855 won't start.

Put in the key and turn and it doesn't crank.

Christmas tree on the dashboard.

Fuel pump active.

Sometimes I'll get a click like a relay and sometimes not.

I've seen a number of references to a "starter relay" but no instructions on where it is.

Help?!

ok this might be a bit long winded but here goes.car is volvo 850 2.5L SE, engine fault light came on a few days ago after i was poking repair on big air hose that goes into inlet manifold, i could hear air being sucked in through the repair, so i guessed that was what caused the light to come on. Today i replaced the hose and read the onboard diagnostics. Placing the jumper into the A2 socket these are the codes it read back to me in this order,113 (long term fuel trim lean), 512 (long term fuel trim too rich) and 231 (long term fuel trim at limits at partial throttle). the first two sound like they are contradicting each other. car has definatly been using too much fuel. trouble is i have read the codes, repaired what i suspect was causing them, but now can't get onboard diagnostics to reset. it says on instructions i have to clear the codes push and hold button for 6 to 7 seconds then release as soon as led comes on, well that would be ok but when i push the button the led comes on straight away, so nothing is being cleared. have read somewhere else about putting the jumper into socket no.7 pressing the button 4 times and then the led should glow continuously etc but this doesn't work either. have also tried reading codes from other sockets, i only have connector in 3 sockets 2,3 and 7, before resetting but this doesn't work either. please help

The needle on the turbo boost pressure gauge is almost all the way to the left in the black with the engine at idle. When I press on the gas the needle will come up just pass center getting into the white area. The engine seems to be running fine, but I'm sure the needle was normally in the middle with the engine at idle. The turbo was replaced last year. Could a cracked or hose coming off cause this problem?

I have an 1996 850R that i need to replace the right headlight wipers, it seems that the right side is very difficult to replace since theres no room for it to get it out, any help or pix to show how to tackle this odd of a job., thanks

Here in Australia there is currently E10 10% ethanol blend fuel available. Does anyone have experience or advice regarding this in a 1994 n/a 20v. Opinions vary but I haven't heard anything specific regarding the fuel. Thanks in advance...