Volvo 850 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

hi to all the guys who have been helping me out over the last few weeks or so.
after replacing nearly everything under the bonnet, plugs, leads dist head rotor, IAF sensor, etc. i was asked by a forum member to go back and check the new leads out. i had had some cheap leads fitted (badly), and he said Bougicord were the ones to fit. new from volvo= £150 (ouch) i picked up a used set from my local breakers yard for £23. after fitting them WOW the car has run without missing a beat for thirty miles or so Brilliant. will run it for a couple of days before putting the covers back on, but early signs are good. thanks again to you guys.

im sure this is right whats a lander sensor any ideas.
top end cars fast pull of poor??

Just repaired my 95 Turbo wagon seat back this weekend. That was interesting. I guess I saved about $400 though. It was quite the project because the gear box that houses the gears was in there backwards from the instructions I got from volvospeed. If anyone wants help with this, let me know.


Rick

what tools do i need to change the hub as there is a star shaped bolts at the back of the hub and does anyone know what socket fits the for the big nut that attaches to the dry shaft the biggest i had was 32 but was to small starting to wish that i could get rid of this........!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The speedometer works on my Volvo 850 sedan but the odometer and trip meter do not. I have been unable to locate info on possible repairs in the Haynes and Volvo service manuals. Can anyone tell me what the origin of this problem might be, and if this issue is covered in the Haynes or Volvo service manuals?

Hello,

I just recently disconnected my battery. Once I hooked it back up and went to turn on my radio, it required the 'code'. Now, I have no idea where to find the code, ALSO, no owner's manual.

Thanks,

Matt

for the last month or so my 850 has been occasionally cutting out. From what i can tell every time it dies is in sport mode, what will happen is i will be driving down the road at various speeds then ill hit the gas, or cruise control will, and the engine will drop down to about 2000 rpm, then jump from there to about 3000 and it will seem to be slowing down, as if still engaged in the tranny, but it wil do this for about 3 seconds before the engine dies. I only had a code one time, and it said MAF sensor, but i dont know if that would be it or not, since this one is not much older than a year. ive cleaned it as well, and i dont know if their could be any other things. The cam sensor has also been changed last october. The car will die and require 5-10 minutes of sitting time before it will start again. Sometimes you can make a 10 minute journey and have it die, then get 300 miles out of it before it happens again. Im wondering if i should take it in or not because this doesnt happen that often, i dont know if they could diagnose it readily, or if illl be paying them plenty to figure out whats wrong?

Hi,

I’m new to this forum, and I have a problem with Central Locking in my 1996 850.

The Central Locking system has always functioned perfectly.

PROBLEM: As of 2 weeks ago the keyless remote refused to UNLOCK all (or any) doors. It would only make all doors LOCK.

GOOD FACTS:

1. MANUAL: Each door itself functions perfectly, locking and unlocking, when operated by either the inside and/or outside doorhandles.

2. KEYLOCKS: The 3 keylocks (driver, passenger and tailgate) work perfectly when operated by key as they lock/unlock all 5 doors.

3. PIN LOCKS FRONT: The locking pins on both front doors work fine (i.e. the pins that stick up out of the door which invite a downward press). When depressed, all 5 doors lock.

4. FRONT DOORS: If the car is locked with me inside, manually opening either front door from the inside causes all 5 doors to unlock.

5. KEYLESS REMOTE: The remote operates the immobiliser, arming and disarming it with each subsequent press. It has a fresh battery, and I’ve tried my spare keyless remote with the same result (as for the doors, it only locks them, which is the problem as already stated).

6. CENTRAL LOCKING RELAY: I was lucky to have brief access over the weekend to a known good spare module (the “double-width” relay up under the dashboard) and it behaved identically (only locks all doors) so that seems to exonerate the relay as the culprit.

7. DRIVERS LOCK ASSEMBLY: I was also lucky to access a spare door lock assembly (electrical & mechanical), so I stripped my door and connected it to the door wiring harness. The behaviour of the whole system did not alter with this substitute.

BAD FACTS:

A. CENTRAL LOCKING RELAY: After putting back my original relay (after substituting as per item 6 above) the fault has “flipped”. That is, as of last weekend the keyless remote will only UNLOCK all doors. (I suspect this “flipped” behaviour might be a vital clue, but then again maybe it depends on whether the relay is inserted when the doors are all locked/unlocked? Just a thought).

B. Just tonight, about 2 weeks after the initial fault surfaced, I returned to my about 1 hour after parking it and noticed the indicator lights were flashing rather fast. Inside the car, the red immobilizer light was strobing. Not sure if this is another vital clue, or if it's another unrelated problem (groan).

OBSERVATION:

(i) In the troubleshooting section of my Haynes manual it lists my Central Locking problem under “Locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock”, so it seems to be a standard fault. However, the 3 possible solutions make only vague references to “switch” and “relay” in chapters 11 & 12, and I can find nothing of substance therein.

Hoping someone can assist please.

Thanks in advance,
cheers
Peter

I will do my best to describe this problem, I've noticed while driving at highway speeds(~55 mph and above) it feels as if the car is slightly surging forward every 2 seconds or so then feels normal, this happens at regular intervals while driving, I can't see any change in mph or rpms since it is very slight, but you can feel it while driving. This is while gas pedal is in a constant position on level roads, i don't experience this at slower speeds and it is an doesn't always exhibit this behavior at highway speeds. but when it does it seems to last for awhile. It does this in both "econ" and "sport" modes. I know this is a long shot but was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem or might have some ideas. Thanks all. LUKE

what diff does it make with the 92c and 87c thermostats?
which one is more recommended?!
thanks

Hi! It has been a great pleasure driving my 850. But lately the speedometer is giving a problem. At times it just stops working and drop to zero. This could happen during stops at the lights or during crawls in slow moving traffic. However, if I stopped the car, switch off the engine, and restart again - it will function normally again. It can happen a few times or not at all. What would probably the cause? If I need to replace the speedometer sensor, how does it look like and where does it located?

Hello all,
Could someone please tell me where the engine number can be located on an American spec '96 volvo 850. I'm new and I think you guys are doing a wonderful job here.
Thanks.

Hi everyone, new to this forum. Problem: driving along, engine died, all the dash lights came on, no spluttering, just dead. Got it to the side of the road, and after a bit of trying it started, then a few days later it did it again. technician said there was no spark at all, I changed the coil and amplifier and the car ran fine, a few days later it happened again. I took it intot he garage, tech said it was the cam position sensor. Does that sound right, i though the car would continue running once started even if the sensor failed or was disconnected and the crank sensor was the thing that times the spark?

TIA Mark Hamer

I have had the rotors turned and pads replaced on the front of my 855RA and she'll stop impressively hard without any pedal pulsation or wheel shake at normal spreeds. But when when braking hard from freeway speeds the front end will shake, you feel it not the pedal but in the wheel. I thought I saw a thread about this somewhere, forgive me if I'm redundant in bringing this up.

The car is otherwise very tight; no clunks or rattles except the undefeatable tailgate noise on rough roads. I have removed the interior trim on the gate completely and adjusted the latch as far as it will go in. Can't seem to get it to stop. Thinking about removing the gate and mounting a gun turret for tailgaiters!
(kidding). Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 1994 850 that is haveing allot of valve tic noise, i need to know if anyone has ever adjusted the valve preload on the hydraulic lifters and how it is done?

could anyone tell me if a fuel pump replacement on my 1995 850 auto estate is a DIY job, and if so how easy?>

1996 Volvo 850 Turbo with 145,000 Miles. Recently changed timing belt.

last week i noticed my check engine light come on. it wasn't the first time and i thought it was just because i was burning too much oil because that what it was last time and i had just recently switched oil brands for my last oil change, so i thought that is why it was on.

near that same time i noticed i didn't seem to have as much power going up hills as i had previously had. i noticed the car was having to downshift to maintain speed depending on the grade of the hill.

when i was driving on sat. that's when i began to put 2 + 2 together because wasn't hearing any of the usual turbo sounds (pssssh...whoosh). and i also noticed that i couldn't get the turbo dial to go up into the white "turbo is being used" area of the dial.

anybody have any tests that i could run to narrow the problem down? anybody know how much it usually takes/costs to fix it? can i continue to run the car without having the turbo without any problems? is it advisable to just rebuild it, buy a used one, or buy a new one if that is in fact the problem?

ANY help would be greatly appreciated. thanks everyone

Hello,

I have just acquired a 93 Volvo 850 GLT, 132 000kms. I've noticed that in Econo mode, the driving can be choppy when changing, also, when the Sport mode is applied the engine revs close to 6000RPMs. I would like to know whether or not this is normal for an 850 or not?

Thanks for your help!

Matt

I am a recent owner of a 1994 Volvo 850 wagon. About 2 weeks ago I tried to start my car and it would start and then quickly die. Like it was out of gas. Tried several times and finally started. Two days ago driving down the road engine quit. Coasted to side of road, same quick start and then die. After about 5 minutes it finally started. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Dennis

I know it's a minor problem but the vanity lights on both sides are not working. I replaced all the bulbs but still not working. I don't see a fuse spot for them. Any help?

Marty

I have an 1997 850 base with a broken odometer. I plan on buying the repair kit, but would like to know the actual mileage on the car. I have seen instructions here for reading the mileage using an LED (?) on pre-97 models, but don't know if there is a way to do this with the OBDII equipped models. I would appreciate it if anyone can let me know if a Volvo dealer can read the actual miles, or if I can with the appropriate scanner, and how to do it, etc. Thanks!

im after buying break pads they keep asking me if calipers are ATE OR GIRLING something like that any ideas.volvo no nothing??? SORRY GLT

I had a question. Im replacing my timing belt for maintenance. I have gone over my 70000 mile mark and these people are trying to get me to replace my tensioner as well. I don't think I need to do that. Would replacing the timing belt be fine because I am short on cash...

next saturday i will be looking at a L reg 850 SE manual gearbox how can i tell by looking at the out side of the car if it is 20v or 10v ???









thank's for any help
Pete

I own a 1993 850glt with a 2.5l 20v engine. There are currently two problems I am having:

1.) After driving for about 10 minutes my speedomoter starts to go crazy. It will drop down to 10mph when I am still going 70, and then jump up and down while I am driving. It eventually goes away after another 10-15 minutes, but will come back. When it is going through this I also notice that the car feels like it is struggling to accelarate when I am hit the gas pedal.

2.) The next problem is that during/after a rainstorm my car has trouble starting and sometimes will not start at all until hours after the rainstorm. I turn the key and it cranks and cranks but will not turn over and start. I hold down the gas pedal while it cranks but still nothing. I am guessing it has something to do with the rain b/c it only happens then or in the morning when there is alot of moisture.

Please help because it is suppose to rain this weekend,


Ryan

Just bought a 1997 Volvo 850 Base that unfortunately did not come with the Owners Manual. If such an item is available somewhere as a download I would appreciate anyone who can point me to it. Thanks in advance if anyone can help.

im trying to change the front brake hoses n the fuel filter, but the only thing that's stoping me are the really really stubborn threads, i tried WD-40, brake cleaner, engine cleaner...... still won't budge.

any suggestions?!

Hi again everyone,I have a 850 T-5 94 model.I change the clutch almost every 6-8 months.and when I dismount the gearbox the disc is destroyed-broken.Has anyone ever changed the clutch with something stronger??thanks.

Hello! New to the group and looking forward to participating. My wife just bought a Volvo 850 base model (1997) with an automatic. The stick shift handle comes off with any upward movement. Examining the handle shows nothing that appears to be broken, with two tabs on either side that I assume engage two square slots at the bottom. I cannot however get these tabs to engage those slots. I tried to remove the fabric cover surrounding the lever in order to see the slots, but couldn't figure out how to do that so stopped. I would appreciate it very much if anyone could offer some advice on reattaching the knob to the lever.

Too much?

If so, let me know.
Gary

Hey,

If anyone is from Ontario, Canada, make a post. I'd like to get involved in the Volvo doings for Ontario.

Thanks,

Matt

Hello All. Prior to doing all this work on my car there was oil blowing out of the filler cap. When we would take the filler cap of while the engine was running it sounded like it was relaxing by about 30%, this being a good sign I posted on here the problem, after being told that it sounded like an oil trap problem I purchased all the parts, and I am just now getting to doing the job(car was taken off the road for the winter). After removing all the parts so access to the Oil trap was possible I discovered the oil trap was not overly plugged, when I shook it is sounded like there was a bit of sand or something inside. I ended up cutting of the top to have a look inside and all the walls were covered with a soot looking coating and there was carbon lying in the bottom of it. Would this cause this problem or am I looking at something way more major then an Oil Trap??????? Any Input on other peoples experiences with this situation would be great.

Cheers
Dan

Hi,

The lambda light was on in my 1995 Volvo 850. I read the code in A2. The code is 3-1-4. Socket A6 no response .


I cleared the codes. The lambda light went off. I tried the car, it worked. Start it again, the lambda light did not light up.

Can I be happy now if it does not light on again? Am I destroying the car if I keep on driving without visiting Volvo?

Another stupid question> How many camshaft position sensor do DOHC engine have? ONe or tow?

Thanks.

Eric

could someone give me the rundown on a fuel filter replacement on my 1995 850 estate?. cheers

Hi all,

New to the forums, but have found it would be very useful .

I have a volvo 850 2.5 (sold in sweden 1995) , 210000 km.

One day in last month. When I turned the key to ignition, I felt there is something wrong. The engine did not like to start. I tried again, then it worked. But then the lambda light was on. So I sent it to Volvo. They said the camshaft position sensor is broken. code EFI -314. I let them changed a new one (about $200 ). After that everything was fine.

However, two days ago, I felt the same thing. I turned the key (but maybe not to the endpoint) to start, the engine hesitated several seconds but finally it started. Scaredly, I saw that the lambda light was on again !!! Volvo told me it is the camshaft position sensor problem again. Same code EFI -314 .

What should I do? Is it strange that a new camshaft position goes bad in one month? Is Volvo cheating me ? Really do not want to pay twice in a month for the same thing.

Really get angry with this!!!


Any help is greatly appreciated .

can someone estimate the cost to swap a used 850 engine.

Cheers to all

Just doing some comparisons as I am trying to build a good case for my wife, that we should buy a Volvo 850 wagon.

Our local Ford falcon in Australia is the main competition as we would get a newer vehicle with possibly less Kilometres for about $2-3,000 more.

But because I love these vehicles so much, and have conviced my dear wife that as long as we have a local Volvo mechanic that is highly spoken of in the area, we should be right (we have always maintained our own vehicles well).

But when I was just putting together some specifications I find that over here the standard 1996 850 is 4440mm in length whereas the 850 Turbo is 4670mm. Now I am really confused. Does this mean that the standard spec vehicle is some 23cm shorter? Sounds like a lot of extra legroom for children (we have four). Also from my memory there was a version called the estate, but I could not find any specifications on this one over here in Australia. Can anyone help an Aussie down under...??

could anyone tell me where the IAT intake air temp sensor is please.
my car is a 1995 850 estate 2.0ltr 10v petrol injection