Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

If you just recently purchased a Volvo 240 or are considering one, here is a list of the common issues they tend to have. The 240 is a well made car and with proper maintenance will run for a long time but any car that is 20-30 years old is going have problems. I created this list from how often an issue is asked about on the forums and my own personal experience.

1. rust – its hard to replace parts when the hardware is fused together, holes in the floorboards, etc.
2. wiring – mid 80’s 240s had bio-degradable wiring insulation under the hood, later fixed by Volvo
3. charging circuit – wiring problems or worn alternator brushes/voltage regulator
4. lack of overdrive in automatic cars – the relay, transmission solenoid, or wiring
5. oil leaks – clogged PCV system (flame trap)
6. worn rubber parts – motor mounts, front and rear suspension components
7. A/C – most systems used R12, marginal performance after converting to R134a.
8. The cabin blower motors fail.
9. problems with the rear lights – wiring, poor connections, fuses
10. dead odometers – the plastic gear break or the DC motors fail

Troubleshooting guide to Volvo 240 no-starts and stalls.

This guide covers the common reasons as to why a 240 won't start. Please contact me if you find something missing or incorrect. This is a brief overview, I highly recommend the "Volvo 240 Service Manual" from Bentley Publishers for more detailed information:

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volvo/Volvo-240-1983-1993-Repair-Manual.html

Starter turns the engine but the car won't run or stalls.

Determine if the problem is due to a lack of compression, fuel or spark.

Compression – view the camshaft with the oil cap removed while cranking to make sure it turns, this will verify the timing belt hasn't broke. Perform a compression test if needed.

Spark – hold a spark plug wire close to the fender while cranking (away from the battery) to verify a strong orange spark. If no spark:

With the key on, verify that battery voltage is present on the blue coil wire (terminal #15). Take resistance measurements on the coil. Inspect the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.

For 89-93 EZ-116K: Check for ignition trouble codes using socket 6. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 89-93 Inspect/replace the crank position sensor. Add dielectric grease to the heat sink of the power stage. Verify power to the ignition ECU. Verify the operation of the temperature sender and throttle switch.

For 83-88 Volvo/Chrysler system: Verify power, ground, and the output signal from the Hall Effect sender contained inside the distributor. Be careful with the connector, it will break easy. Verify battery voltage is present on the blue ECU wire (#2). Verify the operation of the throttle switch. A 83-88 diagnostic flow chart can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=5403

Fuel – 1989-1993 LH2.4-LH3.1: Check for fuel trouble codes using socket 2. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 75-90 inspect and clean the 25A blade fuse on the fender by the coil, fuse 4, and the holders. For 91-93 the underhood blade fuse was replaced by fuse #6.

For 75-84 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 5 and 7. For 85-93 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 4 and 6. Both the in-tank and main pumps will now run constantly, listen for them. If the car starts with the jumper installed then most likely the fuel pump relay is bad. For 85-93 the system and fuel pump relays are combined into one package, clipped on the firewall above the passenger's feet. As a safety feature the pumps won't run unless spark is present.

AMM – The air mass meter can be placed in a "limp-home" mode by unplugging it while the battery is disconnected. If the car starts with it unplugged (but still runs rough) then most likely the AMM is bad. Make sure it is being powered by the system relay.

O2 sensor – inspect the fuse that powers the sensor heater. A wire from the sensor will connect with a thick green wire on the firewall, peel back the rubber boot during a warm idle. Measure the voltage, it should cycle quickly between .2 (lean) and .8 VDC (rich).

Coolant Temp sensor – a coolant temp of 180 deg. F should have a resistance of ~300 ohms. Resistance will increase as temperature decreases.

For 1975-1982 CI/K-jet fuel injection see: www.k-jet.org

The LH2.2 (85-88) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=4435
The LH2.4 (89-93) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=6138

Links:

Parts, FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/

Parts, IPD USA: http://www.ipdusa.com/

Art Bernstein's 240 repair site: http://www.cleanflametrap.com/

The Brickboard FAQ/forums:
http://www.brickboard.com/

Dave Shannon: http://volvo2.homestead.com/

ECU/AMM matrix: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

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Help!! I had to rebuild the rear wiper motor on my '83 245 because it seized up. The motor now works fine on the bench but am having trouble hooking it back up. Even though the motor appears to work fine when tested on the bench, when installed back in the car, it will only run for a brief time and then blows the fuse. This happens even with the linkage disconnected so there is no load on the motor. It's almost as if there is a intermittent dead short created when the motor is put back in the car.

There are three wires which are a black ground, a black 12 volt contstantly hot and a grey which is controled by the stalk switch. Both 12 volt wires tested good but now I'm wondering if I have the hook-up wrong causing the problem or if there is still a problem in the motor even though it works on the bench. I'm not sure just exactly how this thing is suppossed to work. Somehow, there seems like there is an intermitant dead short when the motor operates that blow the fuse.

Does anyone know what the operational theory and correct wiring hook-up is for this or know how this whole thing is suppossed to work? Any ideas on what might be creating the short?

Thanks in advance for any ideas you guys might have.

Stuart D.
Portland, Oregon

Had a strange thing happen today. Took out the injectors on my B21F to get them tested and cleaned. Could not get one out and it ended up breaking. Fortunately I had a spare that I had taken out of a 1981 junk yard find. Here is the dilemma, the guy who cleaned and tested them said that 2 were at 90 psi and 2 were at 60 psi. So the question is, what are the B21F specs for the injectors, should they be 90 or 60? Very confusing and I cant find any specs for the injectors. Need some help here.

I picked up a (for Wisconsin) sweet 83 wagon about a year ago. I needed a camping car, and Hilde has proven more than up to the task. Last fall, though, it became clear that there were numerous electrical issues with the engine harness. Nothing serious, I suppose - I mean, she never actually stranded me anywhere. Just needed a brief nap now and then. And there was some little odd timing deal where the ignition would go crazy advanced occasionally and she'd pop and backfire and sound like a diesel for a few seconds - sorta like vehicular Touretts. At any rate, I like the car too much to get rid of it, and am too broke to do the job right.

Ebay to the rescue. For $25, I was able to obtain an AQ series intake manifold, for a single carburetor. For another $75, a fairly nice AQ series distributor became mine. You see where this is going. I picked up a Carter 1bbl at a swap meet A carb kit, some gaskets, new points and a condenser to put it all together...

[attachment=10025:0509121603.jpg]

It works. Damned if it doesn't work, quite well too. Very smooth acceleration, climbs up to the redline very respectably. Idles smooth, no hesitation when you mush the go pedal. Startup is very good. Not perfect yet, but dead reliable.

Distributor is points and condensor, centrifugal advance only, but this doesn't seem to be an issue. I have it set to 6 deg btdc for now. This weekend I need to get it out of town on some long uphill pulls to find where the advance limit will be. Points are somewhat archaic, but they generally let you know when they need service.

The 1bbl Carter YF carb is the definition of simplicity. Tag numbers indicate it originated on a 200cu" Mercury Comet, and the jetting seems to be dead on. Plug color is a nice light brown. I'm feeding it with a Delphi inline electric pump I had in my junk drawer, through an inline filter and a fuel pressure regulator. The air cleaner is just a cheap thing I had laying around, long term I'm going to run a snorkel tube down to the stock airbox. I haven't checked the mileage yet, but the needle seems to be dropping about as fast as it ever did with the old FI equipment - best I ever got back then was 24 hwy.

I know the purists might not like it, but Hilde is back on the road. BTW, anybody need a MAF and a Bosch-type 83 distributor? Got a computer too, just taking up space.

Volvo 240 1984
500,000 kms

I recently put in a second hand alternator to fix a charging problem, but now the battery light in the dash blinks on and off when I put the indicator on, although it keeps pace really well, I am worried I have another charging problem. I will test the charging system tonight, but I do not know where to go from here!

Recently the timing belt chewed around thirty teeth off the belt, $500 just there, the car caught fire a month ago, $185 right there, and a service three days before the timing belt died, $300 right there.

So, in short, if anyone has some good tips on this particular prob, it would be great!

cheers, Gareth

Can anyone tell me where my A/C compressor is for a 1991 Volvo 240. When I turn the a/c on it blows fairly cool air. So I bought the stuff that re cools it down and I need to find it. The only thing stopping me is I can't open my hood at all. Since I got in a fender bender a while ago and haven't had a chance to get it fixed.

Without any warning my '92 240 wagon went from running great with no error codes present to refusing to start. Replaced so far:

• Spark Plugs (brand new Bosch)
• Ign Wires (brand new)
• Cap & Rotor (brand new)
• Timing Belt (replaced with tensioner 10,000 miles ago - teeth still look new, spins camshaft fine)
• Fuel Pump (works fine, recent filter change)
• Coil (huge spark from center wire)
• Battery (fairly new, fully charged)

The symptom is one fire on cranking, then nothing. If I let it sit it for a while, then try starting again, I get one fire out of it, then no subsequent firing at all, just cranking. This is completely repeatable. Checked spark at coil and it is healthy! Checked spark at plugs (grounding them to engine) less spark than coil, but spark is present. Sparks fire repeatedly on cranking. Pulling plugs after starting attempt and can smell gas on plugs. This car ran great, before this problem, smooth, full power, never burned oil. Has 270,000 miles, with 20,000 on rebuilt transmission. The thing is I would like to avoid if possible replacing expensive parts to see which one fixes the problem. So I'm wondering if there is anyone has ever had this experience and can steer me in the right direction. Someone told me the'92 has some sort of spark amplifier, but I can get repeated sparks on cranking, so I don't know about that. Someone else said crank position sensor.. I'd like to get some more ideas before I start buying parts, since I don't know what else to do.

I have a 1991 Volvo 240 wagon that has a bad Jetronic ignition control module, item number 028000572. I swapped it with a good working one off of a friends 240 that was 0280000933 and it started and ran beautifully. I asked my friend if he wanted to trade my bad one for his good one, he laughed and took his back. I went to a local pick and pull and I found a couple, however there numbers are significantly lower: 028000544, 028000556. Since these were from mid to late 80's cars I was wondering if they would work. Does any one have any experience in trying something like this. I am reluctant on purchasing one, just in case it wont work. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Garrett

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Hello, I am hoping that someone can help me diagnose this issue or point me in the right direction.

Well after a lot of tinkering and replacing parts, I was able to get her running on idle. Before she would start then I would have to rev the engine to keep it running, however as soon as I would release the gas it would die. After replacing the in tank pump, fuel filter, main pump, distributor wires, plugs, air mass meter, air box thermostat, and the crank position sensor. I also cleaned all the fuse contact, replaced with all new fuses, cleaned all the ground connections, and checked and replaced the fuel pump relay.

After this she now starts and runs alright on idle, I can increase the rpm's and it will settle back to base idle without dying. Strangely as soon as I start to release the clutch to engage first gear it dies.

I figured it would have to be somewhere in the fuel delivery. I do believe it is running rich because I can slightly smell gas out of the exhaust. It also might be a misfire of some sort because the exhaust output is choppy and not smooth. It could possibly be the rotor, however the person that I purchased the car from told me he just had the rotor and cap replaced. I was thinking there is a possibility that the coolant temp sensor might be at fault.

If this was the case shouldn't it show up on the OBD codes? The only code I am getting is from socket 2 which is 121. I believe would be cause by the o2 sensor, considering there is not one connected. I am in the process of getting a new exhaust with the o2 sensor. When I purchased it there was no cat back, thus no o2 sensor. Strangely I was able to make a 4 hour trip with the car like it was. Then I arrive and the next day the battle begun. I wouldn't think a missing o2 sensor would not allow it to start, as it has run before without one.

I thought it could of been an issue with the throttle body so I disassembled that and cleaned it to a shine, replaced the gasket, and installed a new throttle body switch. Since I was down there I swapped out the idle air control valve thinking that might be the issue. I figure it a good way to do preventative maintenance.

Well that is were I am at now, and I need my car running as soon as possible. If anyone has any comments, questions, concerns, ideas, theories, please let me know.

Thanks,
Garrett

Afternoon everyone.

I've been pleasantly surprised with the lack of issues *knock on wood* I've been having with my new '79 245. It's turning out to be a much better purchase than the '89 was. That said, it still has it's negative points, as does any car this old. Chief among them is tires, though obviously this isn't the car's fault. They're just nine years old and almost bald. I wasn't concerned when I bought the car because I didn't have any immediate travel plans, but the primary role for the car is going to be longer distance driving, and thus replacements need to be sourced.

On there now: four toasted Uniroyal TigerPaw AWP, 205/70R14.

Tires I'm considering? BF Goodrich Radial T/As with the white lettering facing out, would give it a muscle car vibe (maybe I've seen Death Proof too many times). I've had TigerPaw Tourings on a previous car, and they were comfy and got great mileage but kinda noisy. I also put a set of cheapo MotoMaster SEs on the last 240 I had, and six months in I already had sidewall buckling. So that's a no.

What do you guys run on your 240s? I suppose the other option is to buy used, but right now all the used places are lacking in matched sets of four, and I'd prefer matched tires. Thanks for any help or advice!

HELP! I finally found the vacuum leak on my 240.... it was the cold start valve o-ring. However, It seems impossible to find one. Many web sites LIST the o-ring but in reality it is not an o-ring but a 8.2 x 11mm copper washer. I have talked to several venders and they all say I am correct and they had never noticed the mistake. I need my car so I was even desperate enough to buy a whole new cold start valve to get the blasted o-ring.. well, even the brand new cold start valves do not come with the o-ring. Does anyone know or have the correct o-ring for a 1991 240 LH 2.4 cold start valve??? Could really use some help

So, got the car on the road again (91 240, CA Emissions even w/EGR Valve, Automatic). Its eating about 30% more fuel then before the head/Gasket replacement. It idles rough enough that Ive shortened the Throttle Connection Rod settings to keep it at just above Idle speed (Roughness lessens as the RPMs go up. Also seems to do better under a load as small as putting it in gear). Even though Ive done this, it still seems to randomly Idle rough. Sometimes its ok, but I cant find rhyme or reason to it.

OBD Diagnostic Device thingy (Forgive me I can't remember what the damn things called), gives me 1-1-1 in both Sockets 2 & 6.

Im thinking Timing is the most likely cause at this point. Im going to also try replacing Distributor Cap & Rotor tomorrow and see if that improves it at all. Already put new Spark Cables on it.

If a Gas Regulator goes, are there any other signs besides Gas in the Vaccum line?

Are there any Vaccum lines that are more likely to have sprung leaks? Particularly in the process of a shade tree mechanic unknowingly reefing on the Intake Manifold to get it off the Head (WAS NOT me or my father, same guy busted my Fuel Rail, nice guy.... not....)?

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Falcus

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Thanks,
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[attachment=10014:1248_549...7_2852_n.jpg]Aloha fellow Ovlovers!

I am looking for a new home for my beloved "No. 6"...I'm moving overseas and unfortunately, I can't take her with me. I've owned No. 6 since 2003 and she just celebrated her 21st birthday with about 300K miles this month. She is black with a manual sunroof and gold interior. I've kept all of the maintenance records since I've had her and I've invested about $1200 in her in the last 4 months (transmission, in-tank fuel pump, freon charging, etc.). I've lived all over, but used the same Volvo mechanics for years. Even with these last few repairs, I know that she still needs some work and needs the back driver-side door interior repaired to get back to excellent condition. She also has a new HD radio with USB connection and new backseat.

My back-up plan if I can't find her a home ASAP is to find a salvage yard near LA. But if you can use her for parts or would like to modify her, she's yours--I'm accepting the best offer. I left Texas in her yesterday and we will arrive in LA Friday. If you'd like to check her out, please let me know and we can arrange a time/place to meet.

She really has a lot of soul and I'd always dreamed of getting into the Million Mile Club with her, but now it's time to donate her body to medicine or find her a new loving home.

Cheers,

Ovlov240

After 6 months 10 days, I have got my 240 back on the road. Blew the Gasket Oct 2nd 0'11. Today, Apr 12 0'12, drove it back under its own power to my place. Woot!

New:
Headgasket Set
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Cables (CANNOT believe the HUGE difference these made to how the engine runs)
Water Pump
Water Pump/Alternator Belts
Numerous Bolts & nuts

Borrowed, but in working order:
Cylinder Head
Cam Shaft Pulley (Really nice looking one too. I *Think* its volvo OEM. Got it off another 240 in a JY)
EGR Valve
Fuel Rail (Long story)
Spark Plug Cable Looms
Temp Sensor Connector & Boot.

Still to go before its ready for Daily Driving:
Transmission Service
New Front Tires
1x Lug Stud on Each back wheel
a REALLY good Cleaning, outside and In
*possibly* a new battery
*Possibly* a Steering Fluid Flush
*Possibly* a Brake line Flush, they're real mushy for some reason and won't "Pump up", we're thinking air in the lines, though Ill be buggered to how it got in there. /shrug. They work at least.

Im SO happy. Even drove my wife and I to the store in the thing just to get used to it again.

Thanks for anyone that kept up with my occasional Posts and sometimes nonsensical questions!
Falcus

Car: '89, 240DL, auto
A few weeks ago the pressure on the brakes randomly dropped and I was forced to use the hand brake just to get home (good thing I was close when it happened). Had it towed to the local garage I always deal with and they said the break fluid was old and had water in it. They replaced the fluid and found no other issues. Over the past two weeks it's happened twice although not as bad. Just pressure issues, not loosing the brakes all together. I stopped by the garage today and told them and they said they'd have to replace the master head (or something like that, I'm no mechanic). Anyways, they want to charge me another small fortune for parts and labor.

I'm just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and what the problem was? I trust my mechanic for the most part and need to pay seeing as it is a brake issue but I'd like to know if maybe it could be a hole in a line somewhere? I'd hate to pay all this money (on top of what I've already paid) only to find out it is something like a hole in a brake fluid line?

Thoughts?
-Thanks

I got a 1991 Volvo 240 last week. Bought it for pretty cheap. The guy said he just replaced the battery and the alternator. The car was running fine for 3 days, but then the battery kept dying. At first I would drive and whenever I turned on the lights or something, the CD player would turn off, or when I stepped on the brake pedal to use to brake lights, the dashboard lights would come off. Then it just wouldn't start or turn over all together. I'm not good with electrical systems, but I am assuming the alternator is not charging the battery. If this is the case, why did it work fine for as long as it did, then stop working? Another question, if volvo's only use Bosch or Volvo parts, could the fact that its a cheap Duralast Import alternator have an effect? Again, I am no electrical expert and new to this forum so if you have advice, speak in lay mans terms please. Sorry. Haha. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hey guys, not sure if this is the right place for this, total newb here. Mods can move it if there is a better spot for it.

I have an '82 240 DL with square headlights, but I want the round headlights. Is there an easy way to accomplish this? Kits, DIY, junkyard parts hunt?

Any help would be great guys.

Thanks!!

When the car is on flats its fine, but uphills the temp gauge jumps up near the red and I get this burning circuit board smell, just replaced radiator hoses but the problem existed before, I have gotten a temp gauge bypass kit from IPD but I don't think it would be a safe idea because I think since it goes up when climbing allot of hills it may be working still.

any ideas>?

-thanks
Aaron

Anyone have one of these? A vaccum hose diagram, or diagrams for the fuel injection system? Took on a half finished job and the guy left disconnected bits hanging everywhere.... Most of it seems self explanatory, but its always worrying when you find multiple hoses that fit in different places just sitting in the trunk..... ~85% sure all the parts are there at least, but any help/advice would be appreciated. As my father put it "Oh boy, thats a real basket case" upon opening the Hood.....

Thanks!

I recently purchased a 1981 245 with my 18 year old son. To start with it needed an in tank fuel pump so we dropped the tank, cleaned it out and installed a new pump. This quieted the main fuel pump down to a normal sounding pump. We have replaced the fuel filter, plugs wires, distributor cap rotor..etc. It still runs rough on start up so we are thinking about going through the whole fuel system. Our question is what are all the fuel system parts that we need to go through between the fuel pump in the tank to the injectors? Been fun so far and it is fun to drive, reminds me of the old days.

For some reason my Volvo likes to studder sometimes when I'm driving it. It acts as if it is not getting enough fuel or something. My shift gears light flashes repeatedly as if I need to shift (which I don't since I'm usually going fast enough). It's annoying when I'm driving and it feels like my car is going to cut off as if I stalled out. Any suggestions?

Hello all, I just bought a 1991 240 Wagon. It had a miss at idle but the body was so nice I bought it anyway. It idles very roughly so I checked the fuel pressure and it is dead on spec. While I was fiddling around I noticed an "Exhaust Leak Type Noise' It sounds exactly like the noise you have when there is a hole in the muffler. Anyway I finally found out where it was coming from... The Airbox where he air filter is. I have owned several 240's and have been through the idle issue before. Never seen or heard anything like this!! I thought maybe the idle air control valve was causing it so I removed it and cleaned it and there was no change. I no longer have the money to just start replacing things to figure out the problem. I could really use some help if anyone has any ideas what may be causing the noise and if it has anything to do with the idle issue.. Thanks so much

Hi all!

I am replacing the bulb failure sensor in my '89 wagon, as all other troubleshooting I've done on intermittent brake lights has turned up a negative. Here's my problem:

I'm trying to remove the the sensor from the wiring connector, but just cannot get it to budge. I've given it a good pull, both pushing and pulling what appears to be a release pin in the center of the circle of wires going into the connector...but the thing won't budge.

Is there something I'm missing? A trick to getting the sensor off without damaging the connector or wiring?

Thanks in advance!
Alex

Ok, I did go over the stickie post about common start issues. There was no spark from the ignition coil, and i don't have a volt meter to check the #15post. I purchased a new one with same results(side note the new one has a positive + and a negative - terminal instead of the #15). There is still no spark at the coil. Checked common fuses under the steering wheel, spun them around, all look good.

Any and all suggestions are appreciated. I attempted to trace the post wires back just not exactly sure where to go from here.

'88 240 wagon

-FiveAces

Has anyone here seen a Block's Water Vein's Crack? Or any Crackage occur in a Block for any reason (Short of a thrown rod, Im specifically looking for the possibility of Heat/Corrosion/Electrolysis Damage)?

Im hoping for a quick reply, but I understand the idiosyncrasies of Web Forums ^^;.

Thanks,
Falcus

So i have a 1985 244 GL and it has stock rims on it. I have turbo s70 FWD rims that i want to put on the car. I put two of the rims on the back of the car and when i went to drive the car would not move. I undertand i need spacers and longer studs or spacers but where can i find them and what size? If anyone can explain to me why the car wouldn't move that would be awesome. There is a little pin that comes out in between two of the studs and fits into a little hole in the rim. Is this the reason the car wouldn't move? Thank you for your help!!

Also, I am looking to sell my car it is in fantastic shape! If any one is interested leave me your e-mail and i will send you pictures

I'm working on an 88 240 that runs rough at idle. Stupid me, I didn't check fuel pressure to start and did all the normal tune up stuff, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, clean TB, etc. Still idles rough. Checked fuel pressure and it has over 70 at idle. That explains the sooted plugs.

So, I get a bosch regulator which has the same numbers as the one on the car and no change. The regulator says 2.5 bar on the side and I wonder if it is the wrong part. As a shade tree test I pulled the regulator off and attached a big piece of hose and pinched it with varying pressure and the car began to idle perfect.

So, I suspect the regulator is not doing it's job. I broke my vaccuum gauge/pump so I can't manually apply vaccuum or even test how much is getting to the regulator. I'm going to try and borrow a pump but in the mean time does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks.
-Chris

Just wondering if anyone knows a price range for a head gasket to be repaired on a 92'240 wagon. It's not blown but it does leak. I spoke with one mechanic who said between $700-$900, just curious if this seems like a reasonable amount? I'm going to get a few more quotes but I just wanted some opinions.

I recently acquired a really great 1978 242dl. I am interested in making it a turbo, but i really do not know enough about all the things involved in doing this. I Imagine that it is not as simple as simply attaching the turbo unit to the engine in some way. Or is it? I am pretty new to this stuff and i could really use some input here. What are all the things i need to know before attempting such a thing? and once i know them, what is the best way to go about doing this?
Thanks!!

Hi, I have a 93'240 wagon that occasionally will make a whistling sound from under the hood. It seems like it happens mostly in the mornings when it's a little cooler out but not all of the time. The whistling comes from under the hood but I can't pinpoint where. It usually won't last very long, but with this being my only car it concerns me, Don't want to ignore something that could potentially be serious. I should also note that the car does have a leaky head gasket. Doesn't leak a bunch but does leak. Now for the rear end noise!- When I drive the car when it's warm out every so often, after probably an hour or so of driving it will make a buzzing type noise from the rear end. I initially thought it was my fuel pump because it will sort of buzz if it's low on fuel, but this was much louder and coming from the passenger's rear end side. My husband thought it sounded like it was coming from the catalytic converter, but not sure. Any help anyone could offer I'd be greatly appreciative.

Hey all, The heater in my '90 240 wagon sounds like a herd of tiny trumpetting elephants when it works and sometimes it just doesn't seem to go on at all. In fact usually, but not always, settings one and two do nothing and only three and four blow. Also the other day a bad electrical smell was emenating from the dash area.

My question is this: should I just replace the blower motor, switch and resistor for my time or would I be served to try and troubleshoot it, finding the exact problem. I'm no electrical whiz, in fact, kind of a dolt when it comes to circuitry, let alone relays

Thanks

Hi!
This is my first post on the forum but I really need help here.
I bought a 1991 245 5 speed with the 3.1 fuel system. The guy I got it from said he was done with trying because he had sunk too much into it keeping up with it for the last 10 years, but the latest thing was that it needed a MAF, TPS and Thermostat. I got into it and noticed that the Flame Trap was also screwed up. So I got a MAF, TPS and Flame trap and installed all of them.

Before I did, the car ran really rich and the idle was really rough weather the MAF was plugged in or not. After the parts were installed, I couldn't press the gas at all without the car bogging down and almost stalling, the throttle went up and down as if I was pressing the pedal in and out. I checked the codes at this point and got a 1-2-1 (MAF) so I unplugged the MAF and the car was reving fine ( super rich but reving)

My thought was, darn. I got a junk MAF sensor. But now people are telling me it could be a intake manifold gasket problem or main relay and the MAF sensor is just a symptom of the problem.

Has anyone had this or something similar happen? I am really getting tired of this car wasting gas and shaking all over. I wish I was better at diag.

Thanks

Josh

My ac clutch froze and destroyed the belt. Since it did not work in the first place, I just want to bypass the unit directly to the power steering pump. I can not find any kits. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ok, so when it rains, it pours.. Right? I'm new to this site, but not to Volvos. This is my second with the quad round headlights, and it usually runs very well. But this week my starter died, and so I replaced it with some extreme difficulty.

It's a 1978 245 wagon with a 4 speed manual and electric overdrive. This is not the first time it has happened, but it's been a long time since it has.
Under acceleration, it's hard to describe, but the car stutters/bonks. During the fractions of a second that it does this, I notice that the RPMs don't climb like it would if the clutch were slipping. It will do this continuously, but only under acceleration, even slight. Ranging anywhere from once every 30 seconds to constant jolts. Earlier today when I replaced the starter, I removed the clutch fork spring to access a bolt.. But made sure to replace it exactly as it had been.

Can anyone help me out with this? It's really a downer, because I love this car.

Is it possible to get a cargo cover for the 240 wagons?

Hi all!

I have a 1990 240DL that recently has developed an issue with idle quality after the high pressure pump next to the filter failed. I replaced the pump and filter over the weekend.

Now, when first started, the engine idles with a small but noticable shake. After about 3-4 minutes idle quality changes and the idle starts falling in speed, stumbles a bit, and then goes back up again. The longer it idles, the drop in idle speed falls farther with each up/down cycle getting progressively worse until the engine dies. While it is doing this, I can hear the new fuel pump cycling along with the change in idle speed and it seems to be running almost constantly.

After clearing the ecm codes, I started it up and let it run until it died again. The only code being displayed at this point is 232.

The engine will stall at any stop when driving, yet it drives very well when at highway speeds.

I suspect the in-tank fuel pump has also failed, so I have a new one purchased and sitting on the shelf until I receive the new sending unit lock-ring and o-ring I ordered from FCP Groton - should be here in the next day or so.

I replaced the O2 sensor about a week ago along with new plugs, wires and rotor cap/button. Also coming with the lock-ring and o-ring is a new flame trap kit as well.

Does the Lambda code(232) and these symtoms seem indicative of a failed in-tank pump? I'm wondering what to do next if these symptoms continue after replacing the in-tank pump/filter...??

Any insights will be much appreciated!!

this is what's happening. i'll drive the car for a while, maybe half hour, suddenly feels like i'm no longer accelerating. in fact the more gas i give it the slower the car seems to get. eventually the car stops entirely and i have to pull over, wait about half hour then car starts again. it only seems to do this when it's warm out.
has anyone experienced this before?
thanx
kim

Can a 1986 240 rack be adjusted? Just got new rack/control arms/tie rods/bushings and there is the most annoying looseness, particularly when driving straight. Steering wheel can go left or right and wheel takes too long to respond, plus wheel pivots like crazy like steering column needs to be stuffed with paper towels to keep it tight. Actually steerting on turns or curves is actually quite pleasant. Going straight is hell.

I have a 1987 Volvo 240. It is manual.
It idles just fine. I can rev it up while it is idling and it sounds great.
If I start slow it seems to work under about 5MPH. Once you push on the gas for real it just doesn't move.
It starts bucking like a mule half the time and it really won't go past maybe 20.
It doesn't smooth out at all.
If you accelerate very very very slowly it is a little better but still I have not gotten it past 25 or so.

All I have done so far is replaced the fuel filter.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Anyone know a good website to get short ram intakes for the 1991 Volvo 240

Just a quick double-check here - the fuel return line is the rubber hose leading out of the fuel pressure regulator aftward, with a hose clap retaining it; and the high-pressure inlet is the stiff nylon hose that has a threaded connector on the fuel rail itself? Or have I got my understanding backwards?

from ad:

"We are selling our trusty 1988 silver Volvo wagon for $1400 obo. This Super safe car has 189, 960 miles and runs great. It has been our daily driver for 2 years until we recently upgraded to a van. This vehicle has 3 rows of seating (3rd row faces rear and folds into the floor for storing), leather seats, heated front seats, Roof rack, Am/Fm cassette, Spare tire and jack, original owner's manual and Haynes repair manual, heat works great/ AC could be cooler. Nice Toyo tires with about 70% left. We have replaced alot of new parts/had alot of work done recently, including: Alternator, Tune-up, Pluggs, Wires, Distributor cap, Rotor, Fuel pump, Fuel pump relay, Fuel lines, PCV valve, Fuel system flush, ECU (main electrical computer), Cover gasket, Transmission flush. This car is very reliable and has been regularly maintained but is 25 years old so it has some cosmetic flaws such as: Paint clear coat starting to bubble on hood and top, crack in corner of rear bumper, reverse light cover is missing, rear left hub cap missing also, driver's seat has a few tears nothing major. Salvaged title from a side-swipe in 1997. All damage was professionally repaired in '97. We have more photos available upon request"

sounds pretty good right? they want $1400 for it. it's been wrecked in the past. is that a deal breaker?

I'm looking for a weekend driver, must be reliable 100%... what do you guys think?

Helo fellow 240 owners I have had several volvos over the years including a 1974 164 a 1978 245L Van which did 1000,000 k's and is still going a 1990 240 which I drove for 5 years was not as good as the 245. I didnt think I would own another one but tonight I bought a realy nice 1990 240 for our daughter for $800.00. Just drove it home on a permit as its not registered. Drives well but still needs new struts and a bit of work to make roadworthy.A one owner car form Tamworth in NSW used to belong to the local doctor it has done 249,000 ks so its just run in.

Can anyone tell me how i go about repaceing the struts and does this forum have guys who realy know their stuff and do up photos of how the go about fixing things. I am in the landrover forum as well and its like a huge how to fix it manual but then they need a lot of fixing.

Anyway I am Mike I live in Perth and for those who dont already know it my user name of Franservic is the name of the guy who won the Australian 1986 Touring car championship in a 242 GT turbo. I met the guy and watched him race at lakeside in Brisbane it was an amazing car and I saw it push Peter Brock literaly bumper to bumper down the straight. He signed the dash of my old 245 L.

I Look forward to getting our new 240 on the road and seeing our daughter driving a nice safe car.
Mike

I have an 1989 Volvo 240DL

It seems to keep getting low on fluid and overheating. However I see no leak.

I just keep adding coolant every week.

I did change water pump a couple of months ago.

Thanks...

my 1990 240 (automatic) seems to be developing a transmission issue. While accelerating from a stop, the transmission always starts in 2nd gear, bypassing first. This makes for poor acceleration. if i put the shifter in first and manually shift through to drive it works just fine. It seems ti be getting worse. Anyone know anything about this? transmission fluid is at the appropriate level.