Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

If you just recently purchased a Volvo 240 or are considering one, here is a list of the common issues they tend to have. The 240 is a well made car and with proper maintenance will run for a long time but any car that is 20-30 years old is going have problems. I created this list from how often an issue is asked about on the forums and my own personal experience.

1. rust – its hard to replace parts when the hardware is fused together, holes in the floorboards, etc.
2. wiring – mid 80’s 240s had bio-degradable wiring insulation under the hood, later fixed by Volvo
3. charging circuit – wiring problems or worn alternator brushes/voltage regulator
4. lack of overdrive in automatic cars – the relay, transmission solenoid, or wiring
5. oil leaks – clogged PCV system (flame trap)
6. worn rubber parts – motor mounts, front and rear suspension components
7. A/C – most systems used R12, marginal performance after converting to R134a.
8. The cabin blower motors fail.
9. problems with the rear lights – wiring, poor connections, fuses
10. dead odometers – the plastic gear break or the DC motors fail

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Troubleshooting guide to Volvo 240 no-starts and stalls.

This guide covers the common reasons as to why a 240 won't start. Please contact me if you find something missing or incorrect. This is a brief overview, I highly recommend the "Volvo 240 Service Manual" from Bentley Publishers for more detailed information:

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volvo/Volvo-240-1983-1993-Repair-Manual.html

Starter turns the engine but the car won't run or stalls.

Determine if the problem is due to a lack of compression, fuel or spark.

Compression – view the camshaft with the oil cap removed while cranking to make sure it turns, this will verify the timing belt hasn't broke. Perform a compression test.

Spark – hold a spark plug wire close to the fender while cranking (away from the battery) to verify a strong orange spark. If no spark:

With the key on, verify that battery voltage is present on the blue coil wire (terminal #15). Take resistance measurements on the coil. Inspect the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.

For 89-93 EZ-116K: Check for ignition trouble codes using socket 6. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 89-93 Inspect/replace the crank position sensor. Add dielectric grease to the heat sink of the power stage. Verify power to the ignition ECU. Verify the operation of the temperature sender and throttle switch.

For 83-88 Volvo/Chrysler system: Verify power, ground, and the output signal from the Hall Effect sender contained inside the distributor. Be careful with the connector, it will break easy. Verify battery voltage is present on the blue ECU wire (#2). Verify the operation of the throttle switch. A 83-88 diagnostic flow chart can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=5403

Fuel – 1989-1993 LH2.4-LH3.1: Check for fuel trouble codes using socket 2. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 75-90 inspect and clean the 25A blade fuse on the fender by the coil, fuse 4, and the holders. For 91-93 the underhood blade fuse was replaced by fuse #6.

For 75-84 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 5 and 7. For 85-93 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 4 and 6. Both the in-tank and main pumps will now run constantly, listen for them. If the car starts with the jumper installed then most likely the fuel pump relay is bad. For 85-93 the system and fuel pump relays are combined into one package, clipped on the firewall above the passenger's feet. As a safety feature the pumps won't run unless spark is present.

AMM – The air mass meter can be placed in a "limp-home" mode by unplugging it while the battery is disconnected. If the car starts with it unplugged (but still runs rough) then most likely the AMM is bad. Make sure it is being powered by the system relay.

O2 sensor – inspect the fuse that powers the sensor heater. A wire from the sensor will connect with a thick green wire on the firewall, peel back the rubber boot during a warm idle. Measure the voltage, it should cycle quickly between .2 (lean) and .8 VDC (rich).

Coolant Temp sensor – a coolant temp of 180 deg. F should have a resistance of ~300 ohms. Resistance will increase as temperature decreases.

For 1975-1982 CI/K-jet fuel injection see: www.k-jet.org

The LH2.2 (85-88) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=4435
The LH2.4 (89-93) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=6138

Links:

Parts, FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/

Parts, IPD USA: http://www.ipdusa.com/

Art Bernstein's 240 repair site: http://www.cleanflametrap.com/

Dave Shannon's 240 repair site: http://volvo2.homestead.com/

The Brickboard FAQ/forums: http://www.brickboard.com/

ECU/AMM matrix: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

hey Guys,

I have a 1989 240DL wagon, and have had it for 4 months. and love it!

And recently the fuel economy has gotten worse and worse. i get about 200Km per tank, it used to be double that! I have changed the plugs, Wires, cap and rotor, to no avail. There is also a slight engine shake at idle, that doesn't improve with warm up. new air filter. We pulled the injectors today to see if one was stuck open or leaking, the all checked out ok. The ignition coil resistence seems to be pretty close to spec, but it does get fairly hot. have yet to check the O2 sensor voltage or the coolant sensor resistance, but will be doing that soon, once i buy a replacement multimeter.

what else should i look to for such a drop in fuel economy? It doesn't have a tach, i was thinking maybe its a overdrive problem? how do i tell? or thought it may be a problem with the cold start injector? is that possiable? have yet to measure fuel pressure, or vaccume. Couldn't find any vaccume leaks.

Could the O2 sensor be causeing THIS much of a decrease in fuel economy. Any other ideas, its got 180k kms, and starts fast, should have good compression, and no oil consumption.


Thanks in advance!

Ok I had the valves set it's all with in spec but it's still ticking what gives? ...oh it's done 191 000 km so that would be just broken in right

hello,

An issue has popped up with my 85' volvo 240. the other week power to both fuel pumps stopped, no fuses blew, the rest of the electrical systems were fine. As a solution, a spliced a wire from the daylight running lights in the rear, from the wire loom just under the rear seat, and behold! the fuel pumps have been working ever since. The temporary fix was working well, until today. When turning the ignition, no sound from the fuel pump, car would'nt start. then I turned the lights on to see if any other systems had failed, they were fine, but then the fuel pumps started whirring away! car starts fine again.

I recently purchased two second hand cylindrical switch blocks, the ones in the passenger footwell area, as I thought that might be the issue, no luck yet.

The front left running has never worked, all other systems are fine, can anybody help me with this?

cheers.

Hello. Have an '87 240 DL and it's timing belt broke. Trying to get an idea of what we're up against. From perusing the forum, I take it not all 240 DL's have non-interference type motors. Can someone confirm this? Thanks in advance.

I'm thinking about buying the DJ Auto Aftermarket Volvo 240 European E Code Headlight Headlights from FCP Groton. Any comments on these? I live in the US and I drive a 1990 Volvo DL Sedan.

hi, i recently bought a 1991 volvo 240 sedan. i love the car but having a few issues..

1. the car will not go into 4th gear,,, i was told it was the overdrive relay, which i replace with no results.. couldnt seem to get the relay all the way in the socket.. but i do hear the clicking sound its supposed to make.. not sure what else it could be...

2. the fuse for the brake lights keeps blowing everytime i hit the brakes... the tail light assembly was just replace on both sides,.. all the fuses are new..

3. the tag light will not come.. new fuse.. new bulbs..


Any help with this problems would be great... thank you...

When I change my oil I'll have my car front end on ramps. After I put the new oil in I'll let the car sit for about an hour and let the oil settle. Then I start the car and put it in reverse to get the car to go down the ramp. When I start my car the oil light will be on for about 4 seconds and then go off. I realize the new oil isn't running in the engine for those 4 seconds and needs to circulate. I fear though I may be doing damage for those 4 seconds. Am I doing something wrong or is this normal right after a oil change?
Edit/Delete Message

I have been hovering around this forum since I got my Volvo, August of 2008. My son was born on a Wednesday and I got the Volvo on Friday. Anyway, I have been meaning to bleed the system, but I have never bleed a system before. I finally broke down and bought the Motive brake bleeder at IPD. I just found out that the master cylinder attachment also fits mid 70's BMW under the tank master cylinder for their motorcycles. I think it took me longer to find a place to put the jack stands and to break the rear lugs than it did to bleed the system. I guess I just wanted to say thanks to the forum.

Patrick

I have the opportunity to buy another 1990 240 DL 5speed with 175K for less than $800. Only problem is the battery won't charge and the car won't turn off unless you disconnect the battery cable. The owner said he installed the wrong alternator and blew something in the electrical system. A friend suggested the ignition switch possibly. Any ideas? Thanks

Here is what I have done, replaced the lens, circuit board, bulbs.
Still no reverse lights on either side?
Is there a fuse I need to look for?
Thanks
Tommy Davis

I'm a first time volvo owner so I'm still learning the in's and out's of it. When I got the car, the guy I bought it from told me it needed brakes so, when the time came, I bought pre-loaded calipers, rotors and lines for the front (rear was good so I just changed the pads). I pulled everything off the left front then put the new rotor on. I then grabbed my first loaded caliper out of the box and compared it to the old and dry fitted it to the car, all seemed good. After everything was assembled came bleeding. No luck, tried all bleeding methods and both types of bleeders (vacuum and pressure). After three days of messing with it I found that I had put the calipers on the wrong sides making them upside down. Of all the brakes I've worked on over the years, I don't recall seeing a car that you can mix up the calipers.

Beware if you have the problem of brake bleeding as the two calipers are identical except for the third, middle bleeder. Its either on top or bottom when the caliper is bolted onto the car.....should be on top.

I consider myself very tedious when it comes to working on my cars, but somehow completely over looked this. After swapping the calipers around to their right sides, the brakes bled in a matter of minutes and work perfectly.

After telling a few people about my boneheaded mistake, I've heard a total of three stories from volvo owners having the same thing happen, two of those happened with a mechanic.

It seems to take a while before it 'catches' and actually starts turning the wheels in either direction. I find that I have to bounce it back and forth to between 'catches' to get a semi-straight line lol Could it be my rack and pinion? All the boots underneath the car have pretty much crumbled apart. I was just wondering, if it was my rack and pinion, how good would it be to get one from a junk yard or is that something I have to buy new. Or can I just make an adjustment on something to 'tighten' it up?

Hi all,

My girlfriend's '85 244 has some tired, tired seats in the front. At some point, the driver's side seat got so worn out that the previous owner swapped it and the passenger's seat. Now they're both pretty much shot.

There seem to be a lot of Volvos being parted out here in the Pacific NW, so I'm hoping that someone can tell me: is there any definitive listing of what seats from what models will fit in this car with pretty much zero modification?

Thanks in advance,

Josh

hi, i have a 1990 non turbo volvo with a b230f motor and was wondering what is out there as far as performance upgrades go

What glue(or other options) would you suggest to keep this molding on?

Well I started the day out thinking that if I replaced the catalytic converter on my 84 Turbo, I would get my boost back. I had been running the car a bit hard the other day on the way to the bank. Boost was OK, but it seemed to me that the catalytic converter might be getting clogged a bit. Two years ago I had to replace it because it melted down. Anyway, when I got out of the bank the car was just dogged out and I assumed that it was the cat again. Today I replaced it, but nothing changed and the guy at the exhaust shop said that the cat looked fine. Oops $300 mistake. Anyway, a bit bummed but I kept on driving. I should mention that idle also went away on the same day that the car dogged out. I was suspecting vacuum leaks until tonight when the timing belt appears to have broken and I had to get the car towed home. Could these two things be related or am I just having really bad luck today. Is it at all possible that the belt skipped a beat and that is why it was running so poorly. I didn't think that it would run if it skipped a tooth. Anyway, I have to get it to a shop tomorrow. The brick has to go on! I will update with any info tomorrow.

Just replaced the ingnition control unit mod, relay, alternator, plugs and wires. Everytime the headlights are used the car kills the battery. It's had 3 new batteries and 3 re-charged batteries in the past 6 months. Why

And there are two extra lines on the battery cable that goes on the battery posts. If you are looking right at the battery under the hood the left cable and posts are connected, but the right cable has an additional thin cable line that goes somewhere but I don't know where it came from when I changed the battery it must have came off b/c now even with a new battery the car does nothing, not even turn on. Please help my car it on the side of the road and I don't want it to get towed.

Hi, could someone please tell me how to adjust the idle on a 1993 240? Thanks.

Can i add a short ram intake to my 1990 240 2.3l 4cyl manual? And my gas meter broke randomley does anyone know how to fix it?

I've been refurbishing an '86 240 wagon, and now that it is back on the road, I seem to have an intermittent issue with the overdrive unit. Note, this is a 4 speed manual car with the OD unit off the tail of the gearbox.
Here's what is does: On initial engagement (usually) and even sometimes after miles of engagement, a substantial vibration will develop. There have also been instances when some time passes after the OD light illuminates and then there will be a thump and the taller gear can be felt to engage.
My guess would be the solenoid is mechanically sticky of possibly getting weak and having a hard time fully engaging the overdrive clutches. The vibration might be clutch slippage? The car sat for a few years with the previous owner, so that would fit with the sticky theory. Also, I have just changed the transmission fluid with ATF type F and while the gearbox is much smoother, it did not have any effect on the overdrive issue. Anyone think the situation might free up with usage (I've put about 100 miles on the car now), or is a new solenoid likely needed? If that later, suggestions of where to find one?
Thank you.

Recently purchased a Beautiful 84 GL with a blown Head gasket. After repairing it and finally getting to drive her. The Temp Gauge reads about 3/4 the way up?? The top radiator hose is hot, bottom hose is cold ect ect. I've flushed the Radiator, but it still reads to high and feels to hot. Voltage at the sensor is around 9.7.
I'm used to my V's around 1/3 to 1/2 the way up. Wiring harness is perfect. The car is in great shape with 185,000 miles
Any ideas?? Thanks, Marshall in Portland

I fell in love with my girlfriends volvo, so I had to go in search of one myself. Found a 1986 Volvo 240 DL 4 speed manual, but it needs a little work I think. For starters, the orange arrow on the dash is always lit, I know in my girlfriends auto volvo that is the overdrive indicator, what does it represent in the 4 speed manual, and how do I get it to turn off? Also, the engine is revving really high when it is idling. Some of the vacuum hoses were to large for the piece is was connected too, and I replaced them, and that seemed to help a little, but it still revs pretty high. Finally, I believe the heater fan may be malfunctioning, and was wondering how I go about changing it. When the car is running for awhile, a very faint breeze of warm air comes through the vents, but I can't change the speed of the fan, or hear the fan running. Well thank you for any help you can offer, and I hope to get to know the forum community!

1990 240 DL. I put in a new odometer gear and the odometer started working again, then after about 6/10ths of a mile it stopped. No problem I have another broken odo/ speedo and I put the same new gear in speedo # 2 and it works, but after about a half a mile it quits as well. So I do it again with the same results. All the other plastic gears look good but obviously I have a problem. The same problem with 2 different electric speedos WHAT GIVES. Any advice or sympathy appreciated.

-Michael Fatsi

Hi All
New to the forum. Looking into a 1988 240 with 200000 miles. body looks decent in pics, owner says has a little rust on door. Claims engine and tranny are great, the only problem is the front seal is leaking. My question is if this is major or not. He has been running it till the end of November when plates ran out. Asking $450.00 or best offer. What does everyone think? And does anyone know of good Volvo mechanics in the Mid-Coast region of Maine?
thanks
Bob

Hi Folks,

I'm the original owner of a 1992 Volvo 240 with about 300K kilometres. Vehicle has had excellent maintenance history with minimal repair issues.

Today for the first time we are now predictably feeling/hearing low-frequency excess vibration under limited conditions:

1. When engine is turned on
2. When engine is turned off
3. When vehicle accelerates at low speeds

When cruising at any speed or accelerating at higher speeds (above 60km/hr) the problem diminishes almost entirely.

Your knowledgeable input and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much,

Scott

Can't get it started. 83 Manual - Solex 175CD carburetor - LPG/Petrol

Took some voltage measurements today. Maybe some one can shed some light on this.

Coil Voltage - Ignition On

Coil Terminal +15 = 7.2 Volts referenced to ground.

Coil Terminal -1 = 1.3 Volts referenced to ground.

Measured across Terminal 15 and 1 = 5.9 Volts.

Coil Voltage - Cranking Engine

Coil Terminal +15 = 10 Volts referenced to ground.

Coil Terminal -1 = 2.8 - 3.5 Volts referenced to ground.

Ballast Resistor = 1.45 ohms

Voltage across Ballast Resistor - Ignition On = 4.15 Volts.

Ballast Resistor - Brown wire to Ground = 7.2 Volts

Ballast Resistor - Blue wire to Ground = 1.3 Volts

Impulse Generator Resistance = 1100 ohms ( within spec )

I tried another coil with basically the same outcome so I don't think it's the coil.

It has the older Ignition Control Unit - Bosch 0227100018. These are supposedly very reliable. Does anyone have a circuit for it or can explain how to test it.
The Haynes manual I have doesn't cover this particular unit. It 's the one with 2 wire connector to the Impulse generator.

When I measure the voltage across the primary coil on my '88 Volvo 240, with the ignition on and I get 12 Volt.

Any ideas what's happening here. Thanks in advace

Just paid $800 for a silver 1989 240DL with A/T and 152K. Wasnt't running when I bought it, replaced the fuel pump relay and gave it a tune-up and now it runs great. I have a few questions now (this being the first Volvo I've ever owned). The dash is cracked, I've seen the dash covers that are suppose to look almost original, has anyone had any experience with these? Also... I found a set of front speaker grills but can't seem to find any for the rear speakers, if it even came with any originally. Any suggestions? I've foung a ton of stuff I needed on ebay for really good prices: rear bumper trim etc. Thanks for any help.

Good Afternoon: I have an 1983 Volvo 245 DL that wont start, i have checked for spark and it is fine. I tried to checked the fuel flow coming into the Fuel Injection rack and got fuel leakage when I opened what I think is the fuel inlet from the pump (that's the fitting on top of the rack closest to the firewall) but when I crank the car over there is no flow. Is this the right place to check? I have read that Volvo uses a 2 pump system, is this correct? If so how do you test which pump is bad?

Thanks
Alan

Hi, I have an '89 240DL wagon. She has an undetermined amount of miles as the ODO was broke when I got it, but I know its well over 200k. I'm slowly replacing all that's worn or broke including things like the entire exhaust, tailgate wiring, the whole brake system and many more smaller problems.

I have two questions that I can't seem to find answers to.

1. I got stuck in the deep snow last week, didn't take much tire spin to get out but when I did I noticed a few warning lights were on in the dash. Service engine, check engine, battery, parking brake, brake failure. Funny thing is, nothing seems wrong with the car, it starts and runs just as good as it alwys has. I did notice the snow got up into the engine bay and possibly on the generator. Could this be messed up now but still charge the system?

2. Overdrive did not work when I got the car and thought it was the solenoid from reading this forum, but when I change the exhaust I found the wire to the solenoid looks like it got burnt off from the exhaust at some point. Does anyone know where the other end of that wire is? .....I can't seem to find it to even try and splice it back together.

Thanks for any help,
freddyp

Hi All, Working on my 240 front brakes and need new backing plates. Also known in some Volvo circles and the dust plate or splash plate ? Anyway they are front disc backing plates and I need two for a 1992 240 with ABS.

Gotta be out there somewhere - Please steer me in the right direction.

Thanks, John 610-585-4905

Hey Everybody,
Just bought a 91 240 (Auto), When I went to buy it, the PO had jumper cables on it, showed me it started(sputtered, then died)(Couldn't keep it running , even while feathering gas).. Had the car flat bedded home, Got a new battery, now I have no crank. Everything else works, tried cleaning terminals, tried Park and Neutral, nothing. When I removed the Yellow/blue wire, I was able to start it by jumping the solenoid, (with a screwdriver). I did not have my meter with me to check volts at yellow/blue wire..could it be a bad solenoid, or NSS switch. I do know the plastic with the PRND around the shifter is broken and moves with the stick, if you don't hold it.. Any help is greatly appreciated..

I've got a 244GL which justs keeps on going and going.

I'm a pitiful mechanic and know nothing, for all my trying over the years.

The guy next door wants to sell me his old Holden.

He tells me my 244 sounds sick. He says he knows what's wrong with it because he's had one had the same trouble.

He says there's a funny little 'thing' in the carby which he can't remember exactly what it was - he variously described it as a 'brush' and as a capacitor.

When you buy one it costs $200. But, he says, you can't get them anyway.

The car will just get sicker and sicker and then just go dead one day, he says. Meaning one day soon.


Anyone know what this might be? Is this right, even if you don't know what 'thing' he's talking about, that the old 244's are doomed to die because of irreplaceable parts in the engine somewhere?

I just met a woman at a gas station the other day who reckons she's got 5 of them ( 244's) and reckons they're the greatest.

So I was thinking to just keep it and keep it and keep it....


I have this old Volvo and an old XY Ford, which Ford people will know is a virtually indestructable, simple, strong car - 39 years old now.

We can't afford a new car so we're bound to always have second hand cars.

Being so ignorant and mechanically inept (though I do everything I can, especially on the Ford) we can never feel confident about buying a used car.

Better the devil you know than the devil you don't. We've got that kind of attitude.

And we've been thinking we've got two excellent old devils: the XY and the 244. Two strong, dependable, simple good old cars. Stick with 'em.

But, yes, the XY parts are getting harder and harder to find and the 244's probably going the same way.

And now the neighbour's got me worried.

And I don't like the look of this Holden he wants to sell me.

Anyone got any clues/hints/advice/help ?

regards,

ab

Greetings and Salutations,

Last night a 1992 240 became a member of our fleet of old cars. My buddy John, who I've known since high school (a long long time ago) and I bought it as an intended first car for his son Jack who is currently 15. Throughout his life Jack has been around classic cars including too many muscle car Chevys, Pontiacs, and Fords to list. Our thinking is while the 240 has classic styling which appeals to him it also has ABS, an airbag, and a somewhat limited amount of horsepower, compared to say the 76 50th Anniv. Trans Am 455 or 454 Chevelle that are my current favorite toys. Jack is reasonably mature for a lad his age, but he is a teenager and we want him to enter the classic car hobby in a responsible way and survive to be old enough to waste all his hard earned money on old cars, light beer, women, motorcycles, and reading glasses like John and I.

The car is a one owner, rust free, sweetheart, showing some signs of wear and the usual parking lot boinks but the honest simplicity of the design appeals to us. Formerly owned by a Princeton profeesor it shows 150,000 miles, but runs, stops and steers like it's three years old even after sitting for three years. I guess that's what makes the 240 endearing. As the semi-restoration project commences we face two issues off the bat.

After we installed a new battery tonight the ABS warning light came on on the dash It was not on during yesterday's test ride). We took the cover off the ABS box and while the relay is a little loose it appears nearly new. THe brake fluid is full and recently changed. The fuse (I hate those little ceramic buggers) is a little corroded (reading up on these cars seemingly a common problem) but the brake lights that are on the same circuit work fine. We tried the usual newbie stuff. We shut the car off, had a beer, refired it and checked but the light was still on. We hurled a fair amount of invective about with no positive result. We puzzled, pondered, wiggled things, hit them lightly with hammers and had a second beer. The traiterous yellow light remains on. I know this is a fairly complex system, but where should we start looking before ordering a ton of parts and throwing them at the car?

Secondly the passenger side front door does not operate from outside or inside. Both handles move freely and spring back into place, Based on the over 100 cars I've owned I figure the rod has come free from the handle. I can handle that so to speak. The problem is the door panel has to come off to get in there, and the door won't open. In studying the door panel it appears there are two screws in the armrest and another near the base of the door, but the car's design is such with the door closed it doesn't appear possible without bending up a perfectly serviceable and actually quite nice door panel it can be pried out of place without barborous amounts of damage to said panel. Any tips or magic tricks?

John's wife Sue has always driven Volvos but daily drivers get serviced at a dealer. Old cars get worked on incessantly by the crew. We are currently waking this car from a three year coma. As a 50 year old car guy, I know the usual drill as far as coolant change and flush, oil change, searches for mouse damaged wiring, lubrication and such but are there are services unique to a 240 or problem areas that should be examined prior to the first explatory road trip?

Thanks in advance for any tips. Yeah, I'm a Pontiac and Chevy guy but I'm not all bad. I drove a P1800 in college till the frame rotted out.

Matt Pat Mick

This happened a few days ago. My wife was driving, really low on gas, and the car died. After towing to our house and putting about 2 gallons of gas in it, I tried starting it. What happens is, it turns over fine, starts, then sputters and dies within a few seconds. My first guess was that it might be the fuel pump, but reading around a little today made me wonder if it was the timing belt or the Air Mass Meter. Are there any indicators that I can listen/look for that might point me to what it might be? I've read of cases where a failing AMM cause very similar problems. If the timing belt breaks, will it still turn over and run for a few seconds like mine is doing?
I plan on first attaching a jumper wire to fuses 4 and 6 (it's an 87) to see if the pump and pump relay show signs of life. What should I use for a jumper wire - a paper clip?

If that checks out, should I start it with the oil cap off and see if the camshaft is turning?

Forgive me if these questions have been asked a million times. If so, maybe just point me to the relevant threads in which this is covered?

Thanks very much!

Hi everyone,

I'm new here but not new to Volvo - I've owned many over the years, and my current list is 3 '79 242GT's (one Euro-spec show car and two parts donors) and a black '82 242 Turbo with tons of R-sport mods and many if not all of the original Group A goodies (needs bodywork, and I'm putting in a GT interior).

So here's my issue: I'm getting married in September in northern NJ, and I have always wanted to have a 264TE as my wedding limo. Trouble is, they aren't exactly easy to come by!

Anyone who owns one, knows of one, or has even seen one anywhere, please let me know. I'd love to get in touch with an owner and see if I can make this happen. If anyone has any ideas for where I can look, I'd appreciate that too. Thanks in advance!

Just curious my far right tail brake light is really bright I tried swiching the bulb holder but it made no difference also
the centre tail lights are they brake lights as well because they don't work? the printed circuits are slightly worn but before I run off to the wreckers for crappy sun bleached tail lights is there a way to fix this??

Well, there's definitly more than one 'Newbie' on here sharing their story, So I guess now's about time for me to tell mine...

I've got an '82 240 GLT. Its been in the extended family for a few years and in that time I've managed to drive it long enough to love it, (if not for its looks, but for its appeal to a learning backyard mechanic) and long enough to gratefully accept it (free of charge) on the condition that if i take care of it, It's Mine. Its been in hibernation for the last 4 months. Wrapped in a tarp on the frigid winter shore of West Petpestwick, Nova Scotia, and brought back to life today. After a fluke test on the battery, 12.20 volts (warm inside) 14.4 while running, the car that would be 'R Volvoa' (Licence Plate Pending)and a quick oil change (only high mileage pennzoil from now on)she was coerced back to life. Under its own power I might add. Only a loose vacuum hose dared to test my limited knowledge of volvo resurrection protocol.

Now this is where it gets good....
After a short inventory check, and a friends 'aquired' online parts supplier password, the verdict is this.

1 rear driver's side caliper, neglected. To be ordered in and replaced. These things aren't as common apparently as GM ball joints.

2 sets brake pads, new (not like their predecessors, of whose rusted remains resembled a horror that we shall never again speak of)

4 new rotors, ATE and Girling, Vented and Non vented...which isn't clear in any Haynes book...you just gotta take off the damn tire.

Flex hoses: How many are there? yeah, that many.

And finally , 2 shiny new wiper blades, one of which will no longer be fastened with a ty-rap. A victim of a late winter night brush off.

So, that's where we stand, me and my two-fer. Relatively unharmed as far as the wallet goes. Next steps after all that, Registration, Inspection (which in NS is good for 2 years now, yay!) and a little of the Insure.

Anxiously looking forward to a summer of electronic OD and window crank sunroof drives. I look forward to conversing with some of you Swedish tank lovers out there for inspiration in these most Oxidized times, and perhaps I'll even post some pics. Spotted red primer and all...

Cheers

I've noticed a faint knocking sound coming from my front passenger wheel and I can't figure out what it could be. My thought is that it's related to suspension(???). Any help in diagnosis would be great.

Thanks,
Max

Hi again,

a friend said he thought the 1981 VOLVO 244 240 GLE 3 speed automatic
had hardened valve seats and so could be converted to LPG gas
(Dual-fuel, petrol/LPG -not sure what that's called
in the US?)
In Australia we have a $1700 Govt rebate for conversions until
June this year.
I've searched all over the internet but can't find anything
about such an early model.
I wonder whether anyone has any experience with this?

Cheers

ruby

Hi there--
I have a 1989 Volvo 240 Dl that's just sitting in my driveway, refusing to start. It ran with intermittent stalls (stalling occasionally when put in park) up until last week when I drove it home, went to bed and it wouldn't wake up in the morning.
I have determined that the issue is in the ignition system, not the fuel system. I have replaced the power stage and ignition coil without any change in status. The ignition ECU is solidly grounded and has power. I have also checked all the fuses next to the driver's seat, and cleaned them. The 25A fuse at the front, left side of the car had melted, but I replaced it and it still delivers power to the ECU, so I think I've ruled that out. I have also removed the theft deterrent system, including the switch under the steering wheel, and the only wire that was cut to install the system (blue/yellow) was reconnected.
I have been trying to diagnose the problem with a Mitchell guide (not the best worded guide) with no luck. Also, the self-diagnostic tool doesn't seem to be working. When I plug the pin into hole 6 and depress the button for the prescribed time, the red LED lights, but only as long as I hold the button. It doesn't give any trouble codes, nor does it indicate that there aren't any trouble codes with a 1-1-1 signal.
I'm nearly at wits end, and my sister has been driving my car for a week and I'm worried for its safety.. Please help.

-Ben

I've wanted a Volvo 240 since high school, that was 15yrs ago. I bought one today, a 1989 240 DL. 152K perfect siver paint with black interior, needs a new sending fuel pump and a few minor interior parts, but otherwise it's great. I'm sure I'll have many questions over the next few months while I dial it in but bear with me. I'm exited!

I replaced the taillights on daughters car, tore the circuit board. Didn't know it was glued to plastic. I am now trying to find a few of the bulb socket holders. The reverse lights were working before I got my hands on her lights, when I put the holders in the new plastic lens, they were very hard to push in. Got them in place, but now they won't come on. Neither side will. So I guess I now need to get new backup socket holders. I have checked my local Autozone and no luck.
Any suggestions
Thanks
Tommy Davis

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Purchased '93 240 wagon for $1000 with 150k on non-working odometer. Seller said it stopped working 5000 miles earlier. I took the car right to my Volvo mechanic who put over $600 of parts and labor into the car replacing belts, filters, and fluids and fixing lights and the horn. The mechanic felt the car was in great shape with a tight frame, new brakes, tires, exhaust system, good body with little rust...I drove it around Town a bit and then handed the keys off to the babysitter who took it out on the highway for the first time. About an hour in, the car began to shake, then click and then a grinding sound occurred before she could pull over. All the lights went on and it wouldn't start back up. I had it towed to the mechanic who believes there was an oil pump failure which lead to metal to metal contact. He believes the engine has destroyed itself and a new engine is the only answer. It starts up and runs well until it warms up and then the grinding sound starts up again. He has an engine with 130k miles ready to pop in to my car. Does this seem like the best course of action or should he pull the pan and investigate? Can the grinding sound be utilized as a diagnostic tool. That is, are there bad and very bad (replace engine) grinding sounds. Appreciate anyone's advice.

Hi all,

I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice.
I've looked at a nice 1981 VOLVO 244 240 GLE-
it has all its service records since new,
new tyres, cam belt replaced last year, 200,000 km,
alternator replaced, no rust and the interior is in
great condition - it's a car that's been looked after.
I do a fair bit of country highway driving and a little bit of city
driving - about 500km a week all up.
The car is great I think but I'm a bit concerned about
the fuel use of the 3 speed. Would it make such a difference
not having the overdrive? Should I keep looking
for one with a 4 speed? This is the best series 2 I've seen
and I've looked at about 8 in the past month.
.
Any thoughts?
Cheers
R.

For a year i was babying my beloved Subaru loyale with a broken transmission. It died at 80,000 miles.

About a week ago i bought a 1988 volvo 240 dl station wagon with 140,000 miles registering on the broken odometer.

Engine and power steering leak a little. nothing to serious.
the interior is the vinyl and has a couple of tears but it is pretty reasonable shape.
engine and transmission shift and pull the beast along well.

i love it. Volvo has been in my family for years. my dad had a 245,240 another 240, 760, 850 then a nissan sentra...go figure.


Is it possible to swap the instrument cluster out with one with a tachometer? i am mechanically incline. Its always been like a weird obsession with me that i need a tachometer.

It has a different hood then originally came with it. it does not meet the fenders well on one side. is there a way to adjust the panel gap in it?

Thx for any advice

am 44. Truck driver, don't know alot about volvos. Daughter bought a 90 240 DL and was told by seller headlight switch has to stay on all the time, if not headlights might come on, might not when you need them. 2nd thing, when driving, and she uses the horn, its intermittant. Related?
Next car is hard to start all the time. Takes a bit to crank over. Fuel problem, or possibly related to electrical.
Any help is appreciated.
Tommy Davis
Little Rock, Ar

I was looking around on Kijiji and I found this 1980 Volvo 242DL for $900. I went to check it out and the previous owner had swapped in a Ford 302 V8 from a 1988 Crown Vic. It's in absolutely MINT condition. New paint (2 years old), only 70000km and less than that on the swap, all new glass, and the interior is like new. The previous owner bought a kit plane and apparently that's his new toy, so I got a new Volvo for dirt cheap Sorry about the picture quality, all I had on me was my phone. I'll take some better ones soon.