Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

Hey I've got a 1990 Volvo 240 DL Wagon and it's been having some strange problems lately. Anywhere from 2-3 times to a day to about once every other day this problem will occur. When driving the car I will find that the engine shuts off and the gas pedal disengages. I then pull over on the side of the road and must start the car up again. The car sometimes starts right back up, however more often takes anywhere from 5-15 minutes to get it started. When turning the key the engine comes very close to catching, making the quick "putt-putt-putt" sound, but doesn't quite catch and get that big "vroom" until it finally works. Once the car has been started, a very loud screech is coming from what sounds like a belt, and doesn't go silent until I get to 3rd gear. Lately, the symptoms I just outlined for starting the car have also been occuring when the car has not been on, not just after the engine shuts off while driving. I cannot figure out what the problem might be, and I don't want to take it to a mechanic where they will just start ripping out and replacing parts to look for the problem. Help would be very appreciated!!!

Hi all, i need some help with a problem with my 88 model volvo 240gl wagon. A few weeks ago it developed a grinding noise that seems to be coming from the rear of the car. It only happens when the car is moving. I first thought it was a stone or dirt in the rear brakes. Took off the back wheels, checked the brake pads all looked good. Then i checked the diff , making sure i had enough oil in there. All looks good. The noise continued so i brought it to a mechanic, he checked the same things as me and the parking brake pads, all seems fine. But the noise is still there. Actually its getting worse. Seems to almost a constant now. One thing though is that when i use the parking brake while driving the noise stops. So last night i checked them myself. But theres plenty of pad there, the pads arent loose. What can it be? any ideas ? anyone?
Its starting to drive me mad as its quite a loud noise, and im worried driving it could damage the car more.

My 1988 240 has recently been having brake trouble, I have to depress the brakes almost completely to slow the car and, at times, I find myself with the pedal to the floor with no action from the brakes.

It recently got very bad right after I filled up on gas, could this mean anything?

Any help is appreciated.

hi please could someone help

i have a volvo 240 wagon and the past little while if i'm in drive it looks like its half in N and if i'm in park its sometime still in reverse! which can be quite dangerous.
does anyone know what this could be?

thanks gill

Hey, I have a 1992 volvo 240 wagon. i want to change it from a auto to a standard. i just want to have a regular 240 manual. i can get a donor car. What needs to be swaped?

Looking into some 240's, 740's, and 850's after my '00 S40 gave up the ghost. Just wanting to get some insight as to the pro's and con's of each model as compared to each other, from those of you more knowledgeable of Volvo's. My wife has previously owned both a 244, and and 850 and speaks very highly of both, but she's not knowledgeable of the finer details of the vehicles. I'm gonna post in the all three of the forums for you guys. Thanks.

I'm buying a 240 from a local dealer and it makes some noise at the fuel pump. Outside the car, the pump sounds very erratic. Not the constant hissy noise my old 240 made, but kind of unevenly pulsating. Inside the car, you can hear the pump make a groaning sound that fades in and out. It's audible over the engine and gets especially loud under the drivers seat. Of course the shop/dealer says "oh! That's nothing! Lots of cars make that noise and there's nothing wrong with them!"

Naturally, not believing them for a second, I went back home to do some homework with my Bentley manual. It suggests noise at the main fuel pump noise is likely due to a problem with the in-tank pump. Does anyone have experience with a problem like this?

Also, on a completely unrelated note, does anyone know if it's possible to run an amp wire to the trunk without drilling a hole in the firewall? I'd like to be noninvasive, if possible. Why, you ask? Well, the car happens to be a beautiful '83 flathood that is completely stock, and I'd like to keep it that way!

Yes, I'll post pictures. Picking the car up in a couple days.

I need advice from members.

I lost my lock lug nuts key so the lock nuts were taken off (using electric solding). Now I need a new set of 4 lock nuts (one per wheel). But Volvo doesn´t offer them anyomore.

Which brand is better (model, part number) for a 1992 240 GLE?

Thanks!

I am looking for a used but in good running order York AC compressor that is off the mid 1980s Volvo. The model is the YORK 210L or 210R. Please get back with me if you have this model and willing to sell it.

loren

I am working on my girlfriends 92 240 wagon. I told her I would fix the speakers. I replaced the front door speakers with 4" and was hoping that would solve the problem.
For a while, even before the speaker change, the front right would work and the front left would go in and out.
The new speakers didn't solve the problem. I thought I would just run a wire from the head unit directly to the speaker but that has turned out to be more difficult than I had bargained for.
It is a 'new' head unit,after market but fairly old, and I am not sure the problem is not in the connection with the head unity but I don't 'think' it is.
If any one has any ideas or tips I would much appreciate it.

Dan850

Hi everyone,

I hate to post on such a common topic (it seems), but I need some advice.

Here's my situation:
I have an 82 volvo 245 with manual trans. The overdrive works sometimes. Most of the time not. The button is connected. The light is never on. I've only ever seen it once.

To further complicate things, my odometer was not working, so I took apart the unit and fixed a broken gear but screwed up my speedometer in the process (messed up the tension spring on the needle- is that replaceable?). Now my odometer works, and the speedometer needle does go above 40 or so. Would the speedometer keep the overdrive from engaging? (see excerpt from manual below)

I am planning on replacing the OD relay, but want to get your perspective before buying. What do I need to do to fix this thing?

Thanks!


<<<from the manual:>>>
Overdrive (some models only)
Shift to overdrive at 45 mph (70 km/h) and disengage it when speed drops below 40 mph (65 km/h) or vehicle encounters hilly terrain. The overdrive can be engaged in 4th gear only. The overdrive is engaged by pressing in the switch on the top of the gear lever. If the switch is pressed in once again the overdrive will be disengaged. In addition, the overdrive is disengaged when downshifting.
No extra operation of clutch or throttle pedal is normally necessary. Engagement is facilitated if the accelerator pedal position is maintained steady.
When disengaging, depressing the clutch pedal slightly makes a smooth transfer.
The overdrive should be used after the engine has reached normal operating temperature (minimum time is five minutes) and the vehicle is being operated on relatively level roads.
Downshifting to a lower gear will disengage the overdrive.

When I bought my 1990 Volvo DL 240 a year and half ago, someone ran over something crankling/dent in the bottom portion of the oil slump(where the plug is). I found someone who has one real cheap. But I also found out that you have to lift the engine to replace it. I talk to this gentleman who is retired from being a mechanic and he said that he would switch it out for $125.00 which is a really good deal because it 4 hours of labor. But then I called my Volvo repair shop and they said they have a tool and they can try and pull out the dent/crankle in the slump. Which would be best for me to do?

I have a 1989 Volvo 240 DL with a 4 cylinder engine. Who ever had the car before me ran over something and it smashed the oil pan in. All though it doesn't really leak, the mechanic said I need to replace it. The shop wants to charge 390.00(with gasket) to do so. I would like to try and find a used part off of ebay and try to put it on myself at my step dads house because I'm poor. I already did a search on google, but I can't find exactly what pan model it is. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
-darin

Hi All,

I bought a large quantity of the outside window scraper weatherstrip for all 200 series Volvos. I selling it at cost to fellow 240 owners, 26 cents per inch. Please see ad on Craig's List.

Hello all! I'm new to this forum...but I could really use some help


The pin on the rear hatch came loose so it couldn't be locked and wouldn't latch. I managed to get the pin back into place, and ran the rod that goes from the locking mechanism for the key back into the pin. Sweet, now it latches shut, but I can't lock it at all, and the rod keeps coming out of the pin making the latch useless again. It seems like there should be a spring or something, but I don't find one tumbling around inside the door.

Any ideas?

Someone suggested that there should be two pins, but I didn't find another, nor does it look like there is room for a second pin.



Cheers
Supa

Hello All,

I've been having a heck of a time figuring out what is wrong with my car! I've searched all over the forums and I can't find the answer to my questions!

1991 240DL

Check Engine light will not go off, reading code 1-2-1. I have already replaced the MAF, checked intake system for leaks, and tried resetting the codes multiple times to no avail.

The "new" MAF (pick-n-pull) seems to work perfectly, the car idles smooth, with no hesitation on acceleration. I've tried to read the voltages at the MAF (both disconnected and connected reading return voltages) but I'm not sure the correct pins to measure, or what the correct voltages should be. It is one of the 6-pin harnesses, with wires to pins 1-5.

So, what voltages should be read from which pins? Or outside of that, what is going on!?

Thanks to all in advance!

Hello all! I just started driving an 88 240 Wagon about 2 months ago, it has about 150k on it. The thing is a beauty. I noticed recently the engine is ticking, it sounds like it is coming from the valves, or at least under the valve cover. This may be a normal noise for 240's I have never had one. The car runs great, timing belt was changed recently.

Thanks for the help!

Bob

I have a 91 240 and would like a roof rack and bike attachment for my car. though, I guess I wouldnt mind one that attached to the trunk lid but I dont know if those exist for the 240 sedan.

so, anyone know the part number for the roof rack and then the bike attachment?

It seems like the most popular one is the one that attaches to the trailer arm and well, I dont have one of those and that was is more expensive I think.

as the title says i am looking for an air horn for my volvo 240 to replace the wimpy one in my car. i dont know anything about it so i just need to find one thats cheap but decent quality. any help would be appreciated thx

While underneath my '82 244 GLT trying to diagnose a starter problem, I noticed a huge hole rusted through in the area where the feet of the rear passenger on the left side would be (odd that I never noticed it before). It's about 12 inches wide and 10 inches long. My question is, being that this hole is in a location between the two axles, should I consider this to be a terminal condition for the car? The car already has too many things to fix, including the blower motor for the heater (I REALLY don't want to do that one), so I believe it's time to get rid of it anyways. I just want to know if this condition can be repaired while maintaining structural integrity, should I ever happen upon it again.

Hello, The SRS light on my '91 240 stays on. I'm told the Crash Sensor Module is bad. Any idea where to get a used replacement and how much it will cost? New is around $1400.

Thanks,

Markap

Hello all, my first post here, and I wish it were under better circumstances.

The problem: My '82 244GLT has had a problem for a few weeks where it didn't want to fire up when cold. Battery is very strong, but there was no spark. I used a circuit tester to see if there was power going to the coil, and there was, yet there was no spark from the coil. Somehow, I fluked out and disconnected and reconnected one of the power wires to the coil while the ignition was turned on, and when I turned the key again, the car started. From then on, I found that when the car was cold, I'd usually need to do this trick to get the car started, have the ignition turned on, disconnect the power wire, then reconnect it, then, without turning the ignition off, crank it over, and then it would start. The car would then run fine, and once warm, I could turn off the engine and restart it without a problem.

This went on for almost 2 weeks, until my car died on my way to work, last Thursday, and I couldn't get it going again. I would have wanted to tow it to work, where I would be able to park it and work on it (tight space and poor lighting at home, plus my building doesn't allow auto work in the undercover parking), but because I was already quite late for work, and didn't want to pay for another tow in the event that there was something else at fault besides the ignition, I opted to tow it to a mechanic shop that operates on the property where I work.

They were busy, but finally, 6 days later, they said they had my car fixed. The owner told me that it was difficult to diagnose the problem, because the wiring appears to have been altered. They had replaced the pickup coil, and taken it for a test drive, and everything seemed fine. I was charged for 2 hours of labour for diagnostics and repair at $80CDN/hr, and just over $35CDN for the pickup coil. So I got my car back, and it was running, but within a few blocks of driving, it conked out again, and I couldn't get it going.

I called up the shop, and spoke with the owner, he said to try to limp it back so that they could take another look at it. I did get it going again, after it had cooled down for a couple of hours, I had to do the trick of disconnecting and reconnecting the power to the coil while the ignition was turned on though. I decided to drive the car and park it somewhere that I could take a look at it myself (the shop was closed by this time).

I remember that when my car first died, I had tried swapping my distributor cap with a spare that I had in my trunk which was still good, to no avail. The spare was orange, and the original was black. I had left the black cap on my passenger seat when I had my car towed to the shop. For some reason, when I was checking my car this time, the black cap was now on the distributor, and the orange one was nowhere to be seen.

After some checking, I found orange plastic bits in the centre of my distributor shaft, where the rotor pushes on. I also discovered that my rotor had the tab in the centre broken. So those pieces came from there. I also found 2 pieces of graphite in my distributor, which look to have come from the other cap (the 2 pieces form a cylinder with a rectangular bit on one end which seems to be a wear indicator for the graphite centre piece on the missing cap (I know how it looked before it went missing. I

So I fished out the graphite bits and swapped my rotor with a spare I had, it seemed to go on more tightly than the broken one. Now I don't know if the rotor was broken before my car went to the shop, I remember it seeming to fit on sloppily while I attempted roadside repairs, but I know that the missing cap was in good condition before my car went to the shop, and nothing was mentioned to me about where that cap went.

I don't know how you can bust the centre graphite piece from a distributor cap, I've swapped them over so many times, and never had that happen. And I suspect that the rotor was busted at the same time as the centre piece on the cap, so how does that happen?

Anyways, to more direct topics. My car is a 1982 240 series, and according to my repair manual, it should have the early Bosch pointless ignition (not EZ-116K Chrysler/Volvo system). The distributor cap is a small one, not the "big, white, ugly" one that the Chrysler/volvo ignition systems have. The distributor has a 2-pronged connector going to it (for the pickup coil). From what the manual tells me, it shouldn't have a crank position (RPM) sensor (can't verify, the car is at work and I am at home). And also, the module that controls ignition should be separate from the one that controls the fuel injection (not all integrated, as in EZ-116k, if what I read is correct.)

Another thing that has bothered me is that there is an adjustable "air gap" between the impulse generator (pickup coil) and trigger wheel in the distributor on early pointless ignition systems, like my car apparently has. The owner of the shop that worked on my car insisted that an improper air gap can't be the problem, and that the air gap should never need to be adjusted outside of the factory. Can anyone comment?

I'm hoping some gurus can shed some light on this situation, I'm sure that this problem has a simple resolution, but I have yet to find it.

hi. I have a 1989 240 GLE with 202000 km (125000 mi).

does any of you know how much is the max volume of the ATF tank? it seems that the car has a leak or something because I've just checked and it was almost empty (which I think that may explain the fact that while the engine is cold, the gears take very long to shift (sometimes it engages 2nd gear at 3500 rpm, not before!!), and the OD does not engage. as the engine gets warmer, the gears shift more normally and the OD does engage, BUT the light is still on as if it was manually disconnected, and it does not change even if I press the button).

Well, as soon as I noticed that, I ran to a gas station and purchased 1 lt (0.26 gal) of Shell Helix Donax (TG Dexron III i think it was), filled the tank with that, but the ATF level was barely risen (it still showed below the min limit mark). The man at the station told me that these volvos use another ATF, but I dismissed his comment since as far as I remember, we've always purchased Shell ATF for this car (we own this one at home since 1995) and to be honest, I don't think the guys that work at the gas stations here do know too much about volvos... I thought about adding one lt more, but I had the doubt about the maximum volume of the tank.

Shall I fill it until it reaches the lower mark? could that solve the problem of the gear shifting with cold engine?

thanks!

Im posting this to get some insite of what may be the problem with my mom old volvo. Its a 1991 volvo 240 and the a/c does not blow cold.When she bought the car used the a/c blowed very cold and worked perfect. After a couple of months the a/c started to blow hot air, so we took it to a shop and had them convert it to r134. After two weeks the air blowed hot again. The shop said they could not find any leaks and wanted to charge my mom again for a recharge. So last week i filled it up with r134 myself and it still blows hot air. My mom just bought a mini cooper and i will be useing the volvo as a daily.Any suggestions?

Ok, here's the general overview of my Volvo

About a few years ago my father purchased an 1986 Volvo 240 GL from an owner who had used it as his "airport car" (driven every day 30 minutes to the airport, and back for quite a few years.)

Well, the spedometer broke, so the Odometer went as well, and he said it was stuck at 250,000 miles for a few years. We're pretty sure it's well past the 300,000 mile mark, just to give a estimate of it's age. I now use a GPS for my speed purposes, cheaper then replacing the speedometer anyways.

Anyways, besides a few minor repairs, a water pump, distributor cap, plugs, and a radiator, it's run beautifully for me as a "college kid's car". Until recently when the starting has become sporadic. I love the car and want to save it if possible, but, It's going to hit the junkyard soon if this isn't fixed. (note, the fluids and such are well maintained. We've taken good care of the engine!)

Here's what happens. Most of the time it starts right up, no problems, issues, or complaint. However, every so often (which has become more and more often recently, so I suspect some component is failing/getting more out of place) it just won't start.

The Battery is new (~1 month old), and the engine turns over just fine. Everything feels like normal, and it sounds like it's about to crank, but as the seconds tick by, nothing happens. It just won't thrum to life. I'll stop, try again, nothing. Try again, nothing. Sometimes if I wait for a few minutes, it'll start, or sometimes it will take hours. It also seems to have no relation to how cold or long it's been run. I've had it on a cold morning not start, I've had it on a blisteringly hot day not start. I've had it not start when the engine's cold, or after it's been running for nearly an hour.

BUT, once it does start, it'll start up immediately, and runs smoothly as always. It has never died while running or idling, it only refuses to start.



So, what should I be looking to fix in the car? The sparkplugs are new, and when I checked them this afternoon, there was no gunk, black, or buildup, just nice grey plugs. So, I know the engine runs properly, just won't start.


Thank you all for your time! If this has happened before, and there's already a good discussion on it, please, point me to it! However, I did a search and didn't find anything, so I thought it would be appropriate to go ahead and ask.



PS: hmm... thought I had posted, guess I had merely pushed preview, well anyways, we were following the manual for checking the fuel pump, and were unable to get a whirring sound from the fuel pump in the tank (as per the manual's instructions) even after jumping the relay. Perhaps this is a big clue...

Thanks for Viewing my topic for starters!
To the problem at hand. I replace my FULL cooling system radiator,hoses,water pump, thermostat, res cap etc... all except for heater core. I got it all sealed up again without any leaks put a mix of 60/40 in it. Started it up ran it for a bit. Decided to take it down the road and it got HOT It never breaks over into the RED area but runs right under. It's becoming a big problem. I thought it might be head gasket but, tested not the problem. It's getting hot enough it caused my stock Ignition module to die. I replace it and drove it around some more and cause the new one to get hot and kill my car for a bit.
Long story to short can you please tell me how to get an air bubble out of a cooling system that is completely sealed?
Please if you have a heart send a reply!

Thanks for Viewing my topic for starters!
To the problem at hand. I replace my FULL cooling system radiator,hoses,water pump, thermostat, res cap etc... all except for heater core. I got it all sealed up again without any leaks put a mix of 60/40 in it. Started it up ran it for a bit. Decided to take it down the road and it got HOT It never breaks over into the RED area but runs right under. It's becoming a big problem. I thought it might be head gasket but, tested not the problem. It's getting hot enough it caused my stock Ignition module to die. I replace it and drove it around some more and cause the new one to get hot and kill my car for a bit.
Long story to short can you please tell me how to get an air bubble out of a cooling system that is completely sealed?
Please if you have a heart send a reply!

Before I break it, how do I remove the rotor from the distubtor on a 91 240?

Do I have to remove the entire distributor? or will it pull off somehow like my old beetle's would.

I recently bought a 1984 240 wagon in Oregon,planning to drive across the country. I drove it around for a week, everything seemed fine with the car. I made it to San Francisco without any problems, but it broke down on my way to Los Angeles. I had the fuel pump relay replaced, and got to LA. It sat for a few hours and then I tried to drive it. It would start fine but then stall. I drove around a few blocks and every time I stopped it would stall again. I brought it to a mechanic here in LA who told me that the wiring harness is bad, there's a leak in the power steering system, and the dust boot is collecting oil. They repaired the wire connections to the mass air flow sensor, and cleaned meter connectors, and the car seemed to be driving normally again. Now it's stalling again and there's water coming out of the tail pipe. Are these all connected? I love 240's and was very excited about this car, but am wondering now if it's worth it to have it fixed. Would a new wiring harness fix the stalling? Does anyone know of mechanics, or Volvo enthusiasts that would want to buy it and fix it up? It only has 165000 miles on it, the body is good shape.

Please please help me.I have an 1987 240 glt with 198000 on the clock.I noticed last week that the engine temp sat at the beginning of the red and moved back down when i went down the motorway.I checked the engine and steam was no where to be seen and the engine seemed ok.I assumed a stuck shut thermostat so replaced with an aftermarket one,no joy!I removed the stat and the temp sat at the nearly cold mark. Assumption was a dodgy aftermarket stat so tested both the old original volvo one and also the new one.Both stats seemed to operate fine in the boiling water test.As a matter of course i have replaced the noisy pump and a new radiator was fitted.The old one rotten where it sits in the bottom brackets.I flushed the block back and too and the water was clear as daylight.I have also fitted a new sender and checked that it had 10 volts at the sender connection.I checked for a'temperature compensation board'there isn't one!I have changed the gauges(both temp and fuel)in case of a back feeding problem. The pcb also swapped to no avail.I have also today changed the thermostat(again)for a proper volvo one at 87 degrees opening.This problem is still there!I managed to get another voltage regulator even though i had a nice 10v at the sender.There is no bubbling in the expansion tank and the car seems to run good on 95 octane.This problem is driving me mad and i now rather dislike this car at the moment!please anyone any ideas?john

What glue(or other options) would you suggest to keep this molding on?

I know this must have been asked a hundred times before......
but I tried the search feature repeatedly and came up with zero.....
How does one turn off the service needed light on a 1993 240?

thanks
Bob

Hi

I have a 240 which has begun stalling when cold in low gears, the problem has gotten worse and now it stalls even in 3rd gear in traffic. My mechanic cannot find the problem and has decided to try a mass air flow meter. This is working out to be more expensive than the car and he is not sure if it will solve the problem. Is this a common problem and is there a cure??

Thank you

Hello; I am currently looking at a 1986 240 Gl Wagon, 176,000 miles to replace my 1996 940. Having only owned one volvo wagon, I am in love with these wagons and cannot see myself driving anything else. So, I would like to know with the listed problems, if it is worth restoring at a purchase price of $1,000 and rust-free.

Problems:
needs new radiator
needs new paint job (clear coat worn off on hood and roof)
seats need to be re-upholstered, as well as floor, rear trunk space and doors
both front headlights and one rear light needs replaced
potential a/c problem (I have come across a lot of mentions a/c malfunctions are notorious in these)

I would appreciate any feedback! thank you-

abelyear

The title says it! I replaced the broke gear and the odometer still won't work. I removed the instrument cluster and double checked everything. The gear is fine and everything was installed properly. Could the little motor that drives the odometer be bad?

My boyfriend and I just bought a 93 240 with only 100k miles for 700 bucks, what a steal!!! Right? Well we drove it home and no sooner did the thing cut out on my right in front of my house. It cranked one last time and I was able to reverse back to my driveway. We opened the hood and realized that the distributor cap wasn't fastened down with the clips so we clipped it down. Then, it wouldn't start at all anymore. Then we looked at the cap and it was corroded so we replaced it.

Now it will crank but won't start. No spark. We have replaced the coil, wires and plugs. We have checked the fuses. Replaced dist cap and button. There is no spark from the new plugs.

Also...When we first got the car, we were told by the previous owner that the car was idling low because the MAF needed to be replaced and after some research I found out that it could be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner, which we haven't done yet.

My boyfriend is handy with cars. He can usually figure these things out. Right now, he refuses to deal with the MAF until we get the spark issue figured out. Is it possible that the MAF is the problem? He is being stubborn about it because I suggested it. But also, he is afraid to ask for help and all of these failed little fixes are adding up quickly.

Any thoughts on what this no spark issue may be?

Well, a-Craigslisting went I, and I found a couple of parts cars to help me put my driver back on the road. Found an '88 240GL sedan, and a '90 240DL wagon.

Actually, the wagon looks good enough to where I MIGHT want it to expend parts on it rather than harvest. (Sigh. Another mouth to feed...)

Engines and trans in both cars are total unknown quantity. The wagon apparently ran but leaked oil, the sedan is my cadaver for volvo-med-school, some kid had wanted to hot-rod it but only got as far as yanking the valve cover and chopping holes in the hood for a scoop, and then it sat outside in the woods for two years with the engine exposed and windows down. What a waste.

Anyway, both were full of trash, and while cleaning, I found that I couldn't drop the wagon's rear seat, because there's no handle to do it, just a slot with a plastic shaft(?) visible down in the slot. It runs away if I try to touch it.

So, two questions:
1. What diagnostics/feasibility checks do I start with? It was the guy's daily until he parked it, but I assume nothing.
2. How can I unlock the wagon's back seat?

Once I determine if it's feasile, I'll give the car a name.

I want to change the fuel filter(outside the gas tank). Do I need to jack up the car to do it? I looked around the rear driver side tire and I can not find it. If I do need to jack it up, is it safe to do so since all I will be doing is changing the tire?

Thanks,
-Dman

I have an 88 volvo 240 Wagon, manual with 140k on it. Today I was driving along and suddenly noticed smoke from my car. I opened the hood and oil was leaking out quick. I could feel, see and hear that it was coming from behind the valve cover in the rear. I can't really see what it back there since it is about an inch away from the firewall. I cleaned out the flame trap, it was already pretty clean. Is it a blown out camshaft seal? Does anyone have any pics of the back of that engine?

OK, This is what I know about my car. I put the key in the ignition, turn it on and it goes. That's it.

This is the first serious problem that I've had with this car and no one can figure out what it is. She has always started flawlessly and runs beautifully but now is becoming very eratic about starting.

I turn the key and nothing happens. For awhile I could jiggle the shift and she would start. Now it's getting worse and jiggling doesn't always work. I leave the car, come back five minutes later and she starts fine.

Took her to the mechanic I use and he kept her for a week and she started every time he tried. I prefer to think he's telling the truth. But he said he tested her over and over, cold, hot, drove, parked, tested. Couldn't find anything wrong and did examine the shift...

I took her home, two days later in a parking lot, she wouldn't start. There's no sound when this happens, nothing at all. Battery is good. All lights come on. Then 15 minutes later she started fine.

That's the story. She's so iffy that I'm afraid to drive and park. I've always gotten her started after waiting and repeated tries but I never know.

Someone told me to try to start in neutral but this car won't start except in park. I can unlock the shift lock by pushing a button near the shift but that accomplishes nothing other than taking the car out of park.

It's as if there's some contact that the shift should be making when in park. The car is is park but doesn't know it and won't start as a result.

I don't know but think it must be something worn that the shift lever is supposed to come into contact with and doesn't. Unfortunately this has only happened with me and not the mechanic.

Anyone have any ideas?

Hello all, this is my first volvo. It is a 240 DL with a B230F. Bought for 300 dollars. Runs a little rough, Which brings me to my questions/concerns.

My friend said when going up hills, he noticed smoke, slight blackish blue, he was not sure the color. To me it smells like it is running rich. I have not checked the timing, nor done a full tune up yet. While revving from idle it is slightly hesitant, then goes.

It has a huge cherry bomb glasspack, after the CAT, under the car, and is secured there, and there is no shift boot, so i can hear and smell the exhaust.

Also the mechanical fan broke all the fins off when the battery hit them while running (not strapped down he said) I have a electric fan to use, but It doesnt seem like a volvo fan. I am wondering if that matters? I don't know how to do the relay stuff, so I was just gonna make a toggle switch to turn on the fan when I need to.

Any idea's would help for my concerns, I would like this thing to run tip top shape for having 244k miles on it.

Hi,
The central locks in my 1986 240d have worked just fine, but recently about 5 seconds after i use the central lock on the drivers side door all the other doors, other than the central lock open.
I have tried locking from the inside and the same happens. Does anyone know how to turn off the central lock function?
Thank you!!

Hi,

I am new to the Volvo and just bought an '82 245gl with 288,000 miles. Great car, well taken care of by previous owner. I have noticed typical top end clatter and thought the valves needed adjustment(which may be true). However I opened the oil fill on the valve cover and saw no oil splash on the cam. Also when I shut down the engine I checked for oil film on the cam lobes and they were absolutely dry. How is the top end lubricated on these engines and does anyone have any suggestions besides or if necessary taking off the head and cleaning the oil passages?

Also can anyone tell me the full charge for the AC system on this car, the tag on the placard on the radiator support is scraped away and I cannot read it?

Thanks for any suggestions,
Joe

Hey guys I have an 84 240 Turbo which has a seized engine. Before I send it to the Junk yard is there anything worth parting out?

Greetings 240 fans,

Question: Does any one know the structural layout of the 87' 240 wagon roof?

Plan: Sawzall the top off my old brick.

Please save your safety comments for another post. It's always easier to say not to do something than to get something done.

Background: I have an 87' 240 wagon that has been with me for about 8 years. It was bought by an x girlfriends dad who bought every volvo that the local mechanic would sell him! (at one point we had two 240's and her parents had two 240's in the same driveway) We drove it 4 times between Montana and New Hampshire with a full load and it ran flawlessly. Anyway, we split up years ago while the brick red wagon was without an air mass meter so it became mine for the price of the part.
For the past 8 years I have done everything from live in it to neglect it, mostly neglect and let sit in the garage for the past 3. I got it with 200,000 and it's at 209,000 now.

Now that spring is here I opened the garage and fired her up on the first crank! Good old car maybe she can be a phoenix from the ashes or Lazarus type story. She didn't have any pipes from the bent 2-1 manifold connector to the muffler, they rusted out with the cat converter years ago, so I picked up a section of pipe off craigslist that had a cat converter on it for $20 and with some grinding and welding I got it stuck on and she runs beautifully.

While I was below putting the new pipes in there were bucketfuls of rust and sand and leaves falling on me. Serious/ terminal/ fatal rust problems! Some genius had rhino type lined the undercarriage when it started to show rust (probably to sell it) and it continued to rust away right under the coatings all these years. I mean I was pulling handfuls of panel and structural material out of there. Poking around I busted through the rocker panels, and most other panels, but the floors are solid still. (aluminum?) Like many of your 240's she has plenty of other "non-working but who cares" parts like temp gauge, lic. plate lights, one of the seat hinges busted so I have to keep the rear seat down to support it. Etc...

It is apparent that no amount of work will get her through the state inspection for me to be able to legally drive her.

So I'll drive her illegally! She is fun to drive and still good looking and runs excellent. My work commute is three miles on 25mph zoned road, my beach commute is .3 miles and I was thinking how sick would it be to turn it into a topless tub looking rig, load the friends, upgraded girlfriend, dogs, cooler, and boards up and make her a true "wagon" for the beach. A pirate rig!

I would appreciate any suggestions for where to/ where not to cut. I'll post pictures of the action and results if any one is interested.

Options considered:
1) Topless: Cut everything from windshield back. Cut rear hatch level with the doors and put side opening hinges on. Sweet!
Will she loose too much structure in the top? Will she drive like a twist-o-flex watchband?

2) Semi- topless: Picture where where roof racks are, leave side supports for my thule's and remove roof underneath and everything else. Long wagon windows will have to stay in this case. It would be usefull to have the roof racks.

3) Huge sun roof: cut the thin roof metal out leave everything else. Where are the cross roof supports if any?

Any input except "dumb idea" appreciated.

Hi all. What size are the lines from the calipers to the brake line junction? Also what size is the threaded fitting at the end of the line that screws into the junction and caliper. Thanks.

So, in the process of replacing the alternator in my 1987 Volvo 240 DL, I noticed there is a little black wire that is bundled with the wires that connect to the alternator. It appears that it should be connected to a piece above the alternator (a sensor of some sort?) but it has become disconnected. Does anyone know what this wire is for and if it needs to be repaired?

okay, so I have a 1987 240 DL and I am replacing the alternator. I got the old alternator out and want to make sure I put the new one in correctly. I was wondering if there was somewhere I could get a good picture of which wires attach where on the alternator. There are three wires, a small red one, a larger red one and the blue ground wire. I think I found where the two red ones go, but the blue one was bolted with a hose on the original alternator, but I can't find the same spot on the new alternator. Also, how much tension should be in the belts and are there any signs that will let me know that it's adjusted correctly? Also, I'm not sure how the adjustment bolt goes in exactly. Again, a diagram would be greatly appreciated!

This is my first adventure into trying to be a mechanic, so any and all advice is welcome!

Thanks!

I have a 240 station wagon (1992). The fuse for the engine control system (located in the engine compartment on the left wheel housing by the ignition coil)came apart and the car wouldn't turn over. We cleaned the tip with a little sandpaper and then plugged it back together and the car worked great for a few days. This morning started as usual then I shut it off to run back inside and when I returned the car would not start. I want to replace this fuse but I don't have a part number and the parts guy has no idea what I am talking about. Does anyone know how to order a replacement fuse? Also is there a reason I should start looking at that would make this fuse come loose?
Thanks

My 1992 240 wagon starts and idles perfectly 99% of the time, but 3 times in the past couple of weeks it was very hard to start. I had to really pump the gas to keep it running which I never have to do. The only thing that is similar in all of the situations is that the car was pointed uphill. Any ideas?