Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

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Troubleshooting guide to Volvo 240 no-starts and stalls.

This guide covers the common reasons as to why a 240 won't start. Please contact me if you find something missing or incorrect. This is a brief overview, I highly recommend the "Volvo 240 Service Manual" from Bentley Publishers for more detailed information:

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volvo/Volvo-240-1983-1993-Repair-Manual.html

Starter turns the engine but the car won't run or stalls.

Determine if the problem is due to a lack of compression, fuel or spark.

Compression – view the camshaft with the oil cap removed while cranking to make sure it turns, this will verify the timing belt hasn't broke. Perform a compression test if needed.

Spark – hold a spark plug wire close to the fender while cranking (away from the battery) to verify a strong orange spark. If no spark:

With the key on, verify that battery voltage is present on the blue coil wire (terminal #15). Take resistance measurements on the coil. Inspect the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.

For 89-93 EZ-116K: Check for ignition trouble codes using socket 6. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 89-93 Inspect/replace the crank position sensor. Add dielectric grease to the heat sink of the power stage. Verify power to the ignition ECU. Verify the operation of the temperature sender and throttle switch.

For 83-88 Volvo/Chrysler system: Verify power, ground, and the output signal from the Hall Effect sender contained inside the distributor. Be careful with the connector, it will break easy. Verify battery voltage is present on the blue ECU wire (#2). Verify the operation of the throttle switch. A 83-88 diagnostic flow chart can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=5403

Fuel – 1989-1993 LH2.4-LH3.1: Check for fuel trouble codes using socket 2. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 75-90 inspect and clean the 25A blade fuse on the fender by the coil, fuse 4, and the holders. For 91-93 the underhood blade fuse was replaced by fuse #6.

For 75-84 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 5 and 7. For 85-93 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 4 and 6. Both the in-tank and main pumps will now run constantly, listen for them. If the car starts with the jumper installed then most likely the fuel pump relay is bad. For 85-93 the system and fuel pump relays are combined into one package, clipped on the firewall above the passenger's feet. As a safety feature the pumps won't run unless spark is present.

AMM – The air mass meter can be placed in a "limp-home" mode by unplugging it while the battery is disconnected. If the car starts with it unplugged (but still runs rough) then most likely the AMM is bad. Make sure it is being powered by the system relay.

O2 sensor – inspect the fuse that powers the sensor heater. A wire from the sensor will connect with a thick green wire on the firewall, peel back the rubber boot during a warm idle. Measure the voltage, it should cycle quickly between .2 (lean) and .8 VDC (rich).

Coolant Temp sensor – a coolant temp of 180 deg. F should have a resistance of ~300 ohms. Resistance will increase as temperature decreases.

For 1975-1982 CI/K-jet fuel injection see: www.k-jet.org

The LH2.2 (85-88) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=4435
The LH2.4 (89-93) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=6138

Links:

Parts, FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/

Parts, IPD USA: http://www.ipdusa.com/

Art Bernstein's 240 repair site: http://www.cleanflametrap.com/

The Brickboard FAQ/forums:
http://www.brickboard.com/

Dave Shannon: http://volvo2.homestead.com/

ECU/AMM matrix: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

If you just recently purchased a Volvo 240 or are considering one, here is a list of the common issues they tend to have. The 240 is a well made car and with proper maintenance will run for a long time but any car that is 20-30 years old is going have problems. I created this list from how often an issue is asked about on the forums and my own personal experience.

1. rust – its hard to replace parts when the hardware is fused together, holes in the floorboards, etc.
2. wiring – mid 80’s 240s had bio-degradable wiring insulation under the hood, later fixed by Volvo
3. charging circuit – wiring problems or worn alternator brushes/voltage regulator
4. lack of overdrive in automatic cars – the relay, transmission solenoid, or wiring
5. oil leaks – clogged PCV system (flame trap)
6. worn rubber parts – motor mounts, front and rear suspension components
7. A/C – most systems used R12, marginal performance after converting to R134a.
8. The cabin blower motors fail.
9. problems with the rear lights – wiring, poor connections, fuses
10. dead odometers – the plastic gear break or the DC motors fail

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I have a 1990 240DL, Today when I started the car and the seat belt warning stopped there was a beep the I can't figure out what it is warning me about. It seams to start when I turn the ignition switch to the run position. It is most annoying. Can anyone please help and tell me what it is warning me about.

Thanks,

Bill Manley

I have a small device that I keep plugged into my cigaret lighter and it shows the charge in the system. When driving it would show up to 14.5v and usually the Battery would hold about 13v.
This is the device I was using:
http://dx.com/p/3-8-lcd-digital-clock-with...-vehicles-35152


Over the last week it seems to be taking a turn for the worse. It shows about 12v when running and down to 11.5v. Tonight when driving home tonight it showed voltages down to 10v and the stereo would shut off randomly. I finally just kept it off.

If I drive with the lights out it seems to up the power a bit, but right around 12v.

The car would not start when I got home - I have put a charger on it overnight.

I saw something similar happened here:
http://www.volvo-forums.com/t40145-3989-24...ng-problems.htm

I have not had any problems with any of my warning lights it seems like some kind of grounding leak or something, but I am not 100% sure where to start.

Also the last weird thing is that the temp gauge seemed to stay really low tonight on the drive home. It barely moved from the bottom. I do not think these things are related, but you never know.

Any ideas where to start?

I am not getting any spark.

I went to the diagnostic box under the hood and I pushed the button and I got no flashes.

I plugged the pin into #6 and I held it for 1 second and I tried to hold it longer, but I never got a single flash.

This is where I got the instructions:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qi...13191219AAbKKsg

What am I doing wrong? or what could be fried to cause this?

Dear members,

I do own a Volvo 240 GLE 1992 from Sweden (a diplomatic auto) in Lima, Peru. Finding the bumper trims for this European model is hard because the trims are identical to USA versions from @'84-'86 instead of '86-'92 (both upper and lower rubber borders are similar). Do you know of some moders trim tapes that could replace the original trim parts from bumpers?

Thanks,

flogisto

Hey there guys and gals,

My beautiful 1990 Volvo 240 will not shift into 4th gear! It is an automatic. The OD light will go on and off and I can hear it click when I turn it on. I just noticed that when getting on the highway it seemed as if the RPM was a little too high so I started paying more attention to which gear it was in and noticed today that it stays in 3rd gear.

I have already replaced the fuse #11. With the OD seemingly working fine, should I mess with the relay?

Help!

Hello,

I have an 1983 245 wagon that is 9 out of 10. This car is a real cream-puff and runs and drives almost like new. The only issue is that once in a while while driving, the engine cuts out momentarily and then usually runs normally. Sometimes it will stall completely but will then restart and run perfectly. Whenever this happens, I can hear the fuel pump relay click several times. I originally thought it might be a defective fuel pump relay so I installed a new one but it still does it. I've noticed that with a full tank of gas, it is less likely to do it and oppossed to a half full tank where it will happen once or twice during a trip. I've also noticed it won't due it at all if I put a can of "Seafoam" in the gas. I know it's a fuel supply issue but really confused if it's electrical or mechanical related. Could it be the main pump or perhaps whatever controls the pump relay? It does have a new "In-tank" pump installed. Does anyone have any ideas?

I'd sure appreciate any help.

Stuart from Portland Oregon

Hi. I recently got a 1989 240 DL 4Dr Sedan just as a daily driver and fell in love with the little car. Not being able to leave anything I own stock, I've purchased a tach and oil pressure gauge from ebay. The tach fits where I now have a clock, and I've done some research about the replacement. In some places it states that all 240s came with the wiring for the Tach installed, and if you get a stock tach all you need to do is plug it in. Other places say you have to do the wiring. I live in a very rural area, so before I break open the cluster and have no driver I was wondering if anyone could please clarify. Is there wiring in the harness for the tach, or should I purchase all the extra wiring stuff to wire it myself? Also in looking at some post pictures there seems to be a small round washer of some kind on the inside lower driver's corner of stock tach dashes. Anyone know what that might be and do I really need it? I didn't get anything like that with the tach I bought.

Thanks...

Hi all!

I live in Utah and commute (25mi each way) on a motorcycle most of the year, but that's not a good plan when it starts snowing.

I need a good winter/occasional errand car, and the Volvo 240s look great -- reliable, wagons (always a plus), and easy to fix. Oh, and I dislike automatic transmissions, so a manual is a requirement.

There are two near me that fit the bill:

1985 DL Wagon: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/473563

1992 Standard Wagon: http://www.ksl.com/auto/listing/459381

Any advice on which one might be a better buy, and what I should look for if/when the sellers get back to me? I'm not worried about cosmetics. I've read through the common problems thread, and none of that seems too serious.

I'm also a reasonably competent mechanic, so any repairs that aren't expensive don't trouble me.

Thanks!

i own a 1990 volvo 240DL w/ 200040 miles
recently the fuel gauge on the instrument panel stopped working, so me and my friend took out the entire dash
now, even after checking to make sure all the cables are plugged into the appropriate spots, the odometer, trip mile counter, fuel gauge, and engine temp gauge all dont work. Is there something I can check, or should I look for a used instrument panel and buy it?

I have a couple questions about my '93 240 wagon that I could use some help with, I have had a complete tune up done and new exhaust and exhaust manifold seals as well as new engine and transmission mounts, however it seems to idle kind of rough with a lot of vibration; and though I've only had it since October (so I'm not sure what normal is yet for this car) the gas mileage seems poor and acceleration seems a bit sluggish.

Second, all three of my wipers seem to be off track. The rear one stops significantly above the bottom of the rear windshield; I have looked up several pictures, they all show the wiper stopped at the bottom of the windshield, also the rear washer doesn't work (unless there is a separate reservoir, but I haven't found one.) The front wipers, especially the right one, seem to fall off track, going down onto the hood or going too far the opposite way. I can reset them and they work fine for a while, until some thing disturbs their position when they are turned off, such as a car wash.

I have been getting a strange intermittent steering trouble on my 93 wagon. The steering can be very labored at low speed, difficult to return to center and rather than moving fluidly the wheel feels like it wants to track in 10 degree increments. I don't feel it when I'm trying to park or anything like that just when I'm making low speed turns. We put it up on stands and were able to consistently get a click when the wheel was turned quickly. We were unable to locate the source but you could feel it through the tie rod and steering column shaft. We were also able to get some play out of the lower u-joints but not the uppers. Other than that steering was smooth without the load of the front end. What do you folks think is the most likely culprit? The power steering pump is humming along nicely so I feel confident that it is working but other than that who knows. All help & ideas appreciated - Thanks.

I drive a 1990 240 with close to 300,000 miles on it. Haven’t had any troubles with it in the 1-2 years I’ve had it.

Recently went in to get my smog checked and failed two of the three tests: the functional and emissions. I've attached the VIR.

Mechanic said there might be a leak, so a buddy of mine checked the engine for a vacuum leak but couldn’t find anything.

Can anyone help point me to common sources for a failed smog check? Or give me advice on what to do from here. I plan on getting a diagnostic later in the week, but I’m asking here on the off-chance it’s something simple.

I appreciate any help. Thanks.

[attachment=10465:smogcheckVIR.png]

What would cause this?
Faulty part?

G'day all,
I gave my Volvo a nice long tow, and it has improved quite a bit. I believe that the piston rings were stuck. A great volume of blue smoke, with some oil, came out the exhaust pipe. It is starting and idling OKish, but if ever I want power, it coughs and splutters. it even does it in neutral. It took me about 200m (1/8 mile) of riding the clutch to get it into 1st gear. Fuel is getting to the injectors, and I have good spark. A friend of a friend (who has worked a a mechanic for most of his life, and recently specialised in radiators and A/C is now a friend) says that the head gasket is OK.
Also, my fuel gauge died while I was running it.
I want to conduct a fuel pressure test but I don't really want to buy Volvo's special tools. I have a non-turbo CI injection.
Does anyone know what is required and/or how to go about the test?? I do have a Bentley service manual, but my specific model is not covered.
Another thing, there is what I think is oil coming out of the front of the motor, I believe it is coming from the camshaft seal, the aforementioned friend also suggested the water pump. Any Ideas??
Thanks and thanks again
John
P.S. Thanks to Daniel and Vermont for helping me with my last topic. Also, what's with these random links??

Have been working on a weird Intermittant fast / unstable idle problem With fault # 311 on my 1990 240 DL. After driving on the highway or around town for a while the car developed Fast Surging Idle, around 1500 rpm in neutral and would not go down until the ignition was turned off then on again, idle returned to normal 750rpm and car ran fine for a while, then after driving a while problem would return. I replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator, MAF Sensor, O2 Sensor, Cleaned Throttle Body, Cleaned Idle Air Valve and checked throttle switch --NO HELP. Engine code # 311 in ECU Fault Readout. I was told that fault 311 was not significant, it means "no speed signal to ECU". It IS NOT INSIGNIFICANT. I replaced the speedo chip (ITT 2115 chip available on ebay cheap or I have one spare)in my speedometer and the problem went away. Apparently after driving a while the ECU notices that it has not gotten any speed signal and goes into some kind of Default Limp Mode causing the Idle to go Crazy and producing the 311 fault (no check engine light). If you have an idle problem which cleares up with ignition off/on together with the 311 code, fix the speed pulses before spending lots of money on sensors like I did.
Apparently this chip gets blown a lot if someone plugs the Tacho wire onto the duel spade connectors on the back of the instrument panel. (easy to do) The Speedo still works but the output to the ECU and Cruise Control gets blown. Fixed my cruise control too.
Contact me for more details.

Mike

My '87 245 DL is having some major problems. I replaced the head gasket, Re-timed the engine, placed the Harmonic Balencer. She is hard to start but once she starts, the idle is perfect. In Park or Neutral the car will run perfectly; idles smooth revvs high, just like she is supposed to.

The problem comes when I put the car in gear. The idle will drop from 1000 to 800, not uncommon, but it is a rough 800 RPM. When you press on the gas, she shutters and will not rev past 1500. The engine shakes and knocks.

I replaced the flame trap (having had problems similar due to that) checked the ignition timing, rechecked the engine timing, checked and adjusted the idle speed. It all seems to be good, but I am still having the problem. Anyone have any suggestions?

Has anyone had any luck finding a compatible tape deck for a late 80s 240? I have an '88 245 DL with an aftermarket AM/FM/Cassette in the lower console (behind the shifter). The radio still works but the tape deck is worn out and just switches back and forth between sides.

It would be easiest to put in a brand new head unit, but I'd thought I'd see if any makes/models had similar units that could be mounted in there. Thanks!

At last I found a company that supplies 240's with under bonnet sound insulation. WooHoo.
Go to the link and quote part no 1360533.

good luck guys, mike

http://www.turnervolvoparts.com/parts

I have shopped around pretty well to source out a non standard under bonnet Sound/Heat Insulation. But Does anyone know if Volvo ever made a full piece under bonnet insulation mat for the 240's. For love nor money I can't locate one anywhere.

cheers
mike

This is my first post on this forum (as a new member)...about 15 years ago I had an '85 240 that I loved, but alas traded it for a '70 Fiat 124 Coupe and haven't had a Volvo since. Fast forward and yesterday I helped my daughter get a (beater, but still a solid Swedish brick) '92 240 sedan. Among the few annoying things done by previous owners, one of the most disturbing is the drivers door was replaced with one with a manual window door....and the wiring for the central window control is gone. I haven't dug into the wiring enough to know where the harness was truncated, but I'm hoping that I can simply provide power to the other doors from the central location (I presume it all is routed through the drivers door switch panel) to power the windows...and, of course (I suppose), I'm looking for a complete door to replace this one as a preferable option. We're looking for function over form so a crank drivers window & power for the other 3 is OK for the time being. I'm not going to presume anyone else has had to deal with this specific problem, but I was hoping someone could provide some insight as to where to look for wiring & how best & most simply to get power to the other 3 doors.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Quick question.

I have a 92 Volvo 240 (250k) with EGR (California car). I live in Alabama, no EGR needed here.

There is check engine code that points to the EGR.
It has been exhibiting all the symptoms of a defective EGR for quite a spell, check engine light just showing up recently.

Should I clean it, replace it ...or just take it off entirely.

If I remove it, what needs to be done with that removal (such as ECU adjustment, replacement)?

Thanks

Hello!
I own a '83 super high mileage volvo 240, diesel. About a year or two, a wrote about a transmission problem (overdrive), wihch is all sorted out now

But now, i have a new problem (again the transmission)
Last couple of dozen km, switching gears got harder. Today, while i was beggining to move ( during the realising of the clutch), i felt a slight click, afterwards the gear changing became very dificult. Eventhough the clutch is pressed to the end, it feels like it isn't pressed to the end (it feels as the clutch is not separated enough). When changing into the reverse, i hear creaking. However, when the gear is finally switched, the car rides as usual.

Is the clutch cable the problem, or something with the clutch or something else? And what should i do?
Regards, mrvos

I have a 1990 Volvo 240 DL

The brake lights will not come on whether the lights are on or not. When I turn on the headlights the tail light part comes on. However, when I push the brake pedal the brake light part does not engage.

I have checked the fuses and replaced new brake/tail light bulbs. I have no issue when any of my other lights.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

I recently replaced the front brake rotors, calipers, lines and hoses on my '93 240 Wagon, But when i press the brake pedal with the car off, it sinks straight to the floor with almost no braking power, it's even worse when the car's running. i bled lines on all 4 brakes, and replaced the old master cylinder with a gently used one, there's been a slight improvement, but still not as much power as before I did the brake job. I'm totally stumped on this one, I'm hoping someone's had this problem also and can help me out. Thanks.

Have been thru a 240DL door opener replacement before on older model; here's what's happening on my '91: driver door exterior handle/opener has been loose. Assumed was eventually going to be deemed "broken", but meanwhile the door opened for me with no problem. After cleaning the entry metal section (when door open) followed by an overnight snow, there was a bit of a problem where it now took 2 tugs on handle to open door. Then the next snow came and issue was resolved. The following third snow it went back to a problem. Next thing I know, 2 tugs turned to 4. Week or so later, 4 to 6 (not 7, not 9 but 6-always even numbers!) Then after garage did an inspection and entered from inside door handle w/ window down, it now took 8 tugs to gain access. Later in month in took 10 tugs to open door. It had been dry weather for quite a while. Sprayed some grease in and door technically afterwards just wouldn't open (maybe after 20 tugs if lucky.) Finally it rains. Suddenly the door opens nicely after 2 pulls throughout the day and the passengers door that can be a bit stiff opens like new (like my passenger side doors). Things dry out. Door won't open (again, maybe after 20 tugs if lucky). It rains again and Eureka!, door opens again throughout the day. This became a continued phenomenon. I could spend the next year spraying a hose on the door(s) on rainless days the beginning of the day (...) or does anybody have a suggestion? Does this sound like perhaps it is not broken but has a hinge off or is greasing or adjusting needed in the right spot and if so, without dismantling the whole interior door handle and where do I grease? (BTW, no problem opening the door from the inside-that's totally normal.)

Looking at buying a 1992 240. The odometer reads 99,000, but odometer is broken. Owner says it has around 135,000 true miles. Any suggestions as wheat I should look for when looking to buy? Any specific common issues that can be seen or typical rust spots? Currently they are asking for $1,500. I haven't been inside it yet. From a drive by/walk around it does have a rough dash (a crack) and the usual interior wear.

Any advice would be good


Thank You

I recently replaced the front brake rotors, calipers, lines and hoses on my '93 240 Wagon, But when i press the brake pedal with the car off, it sinks straight to the floor with almost no braking power, it's even worse when the car's running. i bled lines on all 4 brakes, and replaced the old master cylinder with a gently used one, there's been a slight improvement, but still not as much power as before I did the brake job. I'm totally stumped on this one, I'm hoping someone's had this problem also and can help me out. Thanks.

Hi all,
first time poster, long time lurker.
after doing a search re: no heat, my situation seems odd.

engine gets up to temp quicker than normal, then seems to sit just above halfway on gauge.
heater only blows cold air though.
the temp never seems to get into red zone, but has come close, highest reached was maybe 75-80%.

coolant is full.
the winter has finally come to southern Ontario this week, so that would be the biggest change.
the temps have been down to about -8 deg Celsius.

the last drive was about 45min. I have not notice any performance issues.

I have a thermostat to put in, so am going to try that.
is there anything else I should be looking for?

any and all help is appreciated.

Colin.

Spam removed.

Hello all,

I bought a 1993 240 sedan in the fall and I love it. It's my first 240 but not my first volvo.

Soon after buying it I noticed it started rough in cold weather(it's very rich-I can smell fuel coming from exhaust), then would even out and I also noticed I was getting poor mpg. I did all of the following but I'm still dealing with the rough start and I'm not convinced I've fixed the low mpg(my odometer quit so I'm not entirely sure):

-New O2 sensor
-spark plugs and wires
-air filter
-fuel filter
-coolant temp sensor
-engine temp sensor
-cleaned MAF and throttle body
-both fuel pumps(in-tank and in-line) but I still can hear the fuel pump whining in the car cabin

I was going to replace the IAC valve but it looks brand new. I'm left with thinking it's the cold start valve which is $$$, a faulty message coming from ECU, or that I'm still having fuel pump issues.

Should the fuel pump be audible in the cabin? Unfortunately, I did not spend top $$ for new pumps. My wife and I just had our 2nd son and $$ it tight.

Any advice or help is greatly appreciated.

Tyler

93 244
91 745(killed by drunk driver)
98 S70

I have a 1993 240 that has spark advance pulsation on low acceleration between 12,000 and 17,000 RPM's. The car seems to have pulse (revving sound) until you get past 17000 rpm's then the car runs great. Also runs great acceleration to that point. There is just a period that it does this.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Puzzling. Was leaving a parking lot with a bit of a dip, nothing major, but a good dip for the front end, so I was driving slow and careful.

As I took the dip the car shut down completely. Engine, headlights, dashlights, all.

I put the car back in park, reset the key, and all I got was starter turnover with maybe 1 or 2 turnovers of the engine.

Lights and dashlights are back on, but no luck getting the engine to turnover. Had to tow it home.

Battery is charged. I have spark from all my wires, coils and distributor. Spark plugs are good too.

Sprayed some starter fluid deep in the air intake and that got her running for about 15 seconds and ofcourse she shut off once the starter fluid burned off.

I can hear the fuel pumps whining as they normally do.

Not sure what's going on but definitely suspect something to do with the fuel system.

All the lights and power shutting off that first time was very odd and I'm wondering what caused that?

Thanks for any advice!

Hi All,

After 5 years between vehicles I find myself back in the Volvo game. Despite knowing there were some issues with this particular one, I couldn't resist purchasing it for the price and overall condition. I plan on taking it to a Volvo mechanic and putting some money into it, but don't want to get taken for too much. I thought I'd come here to consult all you hobbyists before I walk blindly into a shop. Below are the various nuances of this vehicle.

1.There is a minor, but noticeable shuddering/shaking when the engine has to work up a hill or from a dead start. I'm thinking engine mounts on this? The one I checked looked original, so I imagine they all need replacing.

2.There is a knocking or clunking sound in the driver's side front wheel well during various maneuvers. I think both front and rear suspension need a bit of an overhaul (everything feels a bit loose and bouncy over bumps), but not positive on what specifically to expect here if I go into a mechanic and tell them, "My suspension needs work." Do I likely just need the rubber parts replaced? i.e. inner/outer track rod ends, control arm bushings...anything else?

3.On the freeway it's hitting about 4000rpm for 65mph. I know it's just a 3-speed transmission, but I hate to make such an old engine work that hard. Anything to be done here?

4.At high speed 55+ there is a vibrating noise. Sounds like it's coming from the windshield on the passenger side. Almost like something is knocking against it. No ideas here.

5.When the engine is cold and I accelerate from a stop, the car begins moving and then quickly hesitates transferring power to the wheels for only a second or two before it catches and acceleration continues. So to explain differently, I push the gas and begin moving, RPMs continue to get higher but car does not accelerate for a brief moment, then if feels like something catches and power is restored to the wheels. This only happens with a cold engine and only in first gear at about 5mph.

6.Idle will sometimes fluctuate. There's a slight up and down cycle that completes every 1-2 seconds, with the lowest end feeling almost too low (almost sputters).

7.The previous owner said there is minor oil leakage, but it must be pretty minor because I haven't seen any on the ground yet. Still, worth having the PCV system looked at?

8.Front passenger power window doesn't go down from either control switch up front(previous owner said he had better luck in warm weather). Does this likely need both contacts cleaned as I've seen on a few other posts? Looks pretty simple...

9.Passenger side automatic door lock does not work. No ideas on this one.

Thanks for taking the time to read, and for any replies. I really appreciate it!

I did a head gasket the other day between cylinders 1& 2.
Do to a minor bit of pitting on the head between those cylinders & time constraints I swapped the head with a spare I had off a Volvo 240 with 25,000kms on it.

Now my questions are -
Is there any major differences in the head that will cause me grief between a head off a 1992 Volvo 240 and a 1988 Volvo 240?
Are black top injectors suitable for a LH 2.4, I have a new set sitting in the shed.


Thanks

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I can't be the first person to ask this question: Is a Volvo 240 a good car for a freshly minted driver? Trouble is, I don't know much about them other than that they have a reputation for anvil-like reliability. Any particular years to seek or avoid? I do plan on doing a search in the forum too, but thought I'd introduce myself. We live in Oakland,CA, and the family cars are (in order of old age!)

1956 Ford F100- Not restored, but a hard worker
1987 Subaru GL 4WD Wagon 370,000 miles- now the Son's car
1990 Ford F250 HD 4x4 with an Alaskan Camper
1997 VW Passat TDI, chipped with nozzles and bigger turbo
2006 Subaru Outback - wife's car

As you can see it's all pretty old stuff and I do maintain these cars myself except the '87 Subaru which my son takes care of (for the most part). What are the weak points on the DL? I don't mind helping her fix the thing on occasion! Ha!

Hey all,
Well I have used this forum to help out and answer some questions in the past.

Now I have an issue that I can not find an answer for.
My old girl has 540,000kms on her clock.
She was well looked after by an old man before I got her with 420,000 on the clock.

I have always tried to look after her and she has looked after me.
I live in the country so she has an easy life, the hardest part is dodging Kangaroos.

The other day while motoring along she started losing power and there was a chattering noise from the motor when I tried to accelerate.
I pulled off to the side of the road and the idle was so violent that the car was shaking and the engine looked like it was trying to jump out of the engine bay.
About a week ago the Catalytic Convertor started rattling slightly, was going to replace it this week when I had a few days off.



I limped her home(downhill most of the way) and parked her up.
Recently I replaced -
1. Air filter
2. Leads
3. Coil
4. Plugs
5. Battery
6. A few vac hoses.

Now until she is fixed I am forced to drive my death trap ute.
Any ideas on where to start looking?


Thanks.

So, I have this 88' Volvo 240 DL and I wanted to know/get some people's opinion on which front and rear bumper look good on it. At the moment I have the stock front and rear bumper, but I was wondering if ya'll could throw out some names that I could check out to see if I dig them.


Please!

Completely new to the 240 DL game! Teach me your ways!




-Mark

Hey all. I have a 1990 240 DL Wagon. Doing some repairs to her prior to getting her inspected for the year.

A couple of days ago, i pulled the instrument cluster, and in my haste pulled off the last few non-harnessed wires and realized immediately after I pulled the cluster... "I have no frikkin clue where those wires just came from"

(see attached)

I know they were off the tachometer module (see attached), but exactly where on the module, I have no idea.

Any help?

I bought a 1989 automatic 245 a few months ago. It wasn't starting, so I had the coil replaced and since then it has been starting great. Recently it stalls randomly when I come to a stop (3 times last month). I put it in park and it starts right up and off I go. Yesterday it stalled when I came to a stop so I put it in park to restart but it cranked but would not start. I put it in neutral and it started right up and off I go.

From what I have read the culprit might be the fuel pump relay or perhaps the crank sensor. Anything else I might consider?

Looking for recommended conditioners &/or cleaners for my 240 Volvo's dry dashboard.
I'm not comfortable buying 'off the shelf' as those products seem to contain drying agents and I already have a crack in the dashboard.
What have you used and would recommend?

Hi guys. I own a 1986 Volvo 240 DL. I need to replace the turn signal lens on the driver's side and don't know how to do it. I've looked everywhere online but no sources helped. What can I do without replacing the unit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

What's the best tyres - brand and specs for a Volvo 240 (1990 model) Sedan with stock rims?

I sometimes do a fair bit of road trips - 300km - and want a good performance tyre that gives me a smooth ride. I heard some people recommend the 195/65/14?

Bought this car six months ago, did the brakes &c &c &$$$$

All good, love them, second I've owned.

Noticed hesitation on brisk acceleration, thought a tune up would fix.

Started stalling in traffic, particularly when tank near-empty, took it to the garage, was told that in-tank pump was dead, under-car pump dying and straining.

Garage changed in-tank pump, no change, still stalls in traffic.

Bought new under-car pump, tried to drain fuel pressure by removing fuses...pump won't shut off.

Removed fuses 4 & 6 as per fuse panel cover, pump still merrily buzzing along while the car is running, and the short, low, brief hum from the in-tank still happens, with both fuses removed.

Anyone have any ideas?

There is no evidence of those two fuses being jumpered, as per the hack I've found here and elsewhere (to get you home sort of jerry-rigging).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I am in the process of resurrecting a 1983 244GL with a B23F engine. Here is the history: Car has set for over 4 years, engine recently rebuilt, and now I am trying to crank it. Drained gas tank, and replaced in-tank fuel pump. Verified both fuel pumps are working when the fuel relay is jumpered out. Engine turns over fine, but will not start. Began checking ignition circuit according to my Bentley Service Manual. Coil checks out ok, wiring to ECU on the front of passenger side of engine compartment is ok, began checking Hall sender at distributor and this where things started showing problems. I have the Bosch distributor and found no fire when the spark plug was removed and grounded, and the B and C pins of the distributor connector were intermitantly jumpered with the ignition switch on. Checking the A pin of the connector, my voltmeter indicated 12.4 volts referenced to the ground located on the fuel rail support on the intake manifold with the ignition switch on. However, when I rechecked the A pin with a 12 volt trouble light, the lamp glowed very dim. I checked the operation of the light by touching it to the positive post of the battery with the same negative reference, and it glowed brightly. I traced the wire to terminal 3 of the ECU (green wire), and checked there, again the lamp glows very dim. I know Bentley's has a note stating if the ECU is disconnected, the wiring harness will need to be replaced, but the plug appears to be solidly connected, and "back-probing" the connector does not show any other problems. My questions are: Could this problem be due to anything else beside a bad ECU? Are there any further tests that can be done to further confirm the ECU? If it is a bad ECU, are there any schematics/wiring diagrams available for this ECU? I have a very strong electrical/electronics background, and I am thinking a transistor or something in the ECU has failed and it probably won't be too serious to repair. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I was attempting to change all interior light bulbs in my 1986 240GL to L.E.D. The process went smoothly and all the bulbs worked, however I purchased the wrong size for the guage cluster. I left everything in the garage as it was and came back a few days later.

When I came back, I discovered none of the lights were functional when turned on the "park" or "headlight" function. The door chime comes on and all exterior lights come on, but no cluster lights, console lights, or shifter light. However, strangly enough the courtesy light over the ashtry in the back seat DOES light up when I turn the knob. I am completely lost. The fuse is good, I've changed all the bulbs back to the old ones just in case, messed with connections, and nothing. Does anybody have any ideas?

to summerize all of my interior lights are not functional except for rear courtesy light over ash tray drawer.

Thanks for any advice!

For a great year my 1991 volvo 240 ran without any issues. Just recently the the idle started acting strange so i found out the MAF Sensor went bad and I replaced it. It ran great for a few days but now if im going up a hill, or on the freeway, or put the car under heavy load above 40-50 mph it sputters! Any clues on what could be causing this? Its driving me crazy. Thanks!