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Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

If you just recently purchased a Volvo 240 or are considering one, here is a list of the common issues they tend to have. The 240 is a well made car and with proper maintenance will run for a long time but any car that is 20-30 years old is going have problems. I created this list from how often an issue is asked about on the forums and my own personal experience.

1. rust – its hard to replace parts when the hardware is fused together, holes in the floorboards, etc.
2. wiring – mid 80’s 240s had bio-degradable wiring insulation under the hood, later fixed by Volvo
3. charging circuit – wiring problems or worn alternator brushes/voltage regulator
4. lack of overdrive in automatic cars – the relay, transmission solenoid, or wiring
5. oil leaks – clogged PCV system (flame trap)
6. worn rubber parts – motor mounts, front and rear suspension components
7. A/C – most systems used R12, marginal performance after converting to R134a.
8. The cabin blower motors fail.
9. problems with the rear lights – wiring, poor connections, fuses
10. dead odometers – the plastic gear break or the DC motors fail

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Troubleshooting guide to Volvo 240 no-starts and stalls.

This guide covers the common reasons as to why a 240 won't start. Please contact me if you find something missing or incorrect. This is a brief overview, I highly recommend the "Volvo 240 Service Manual" from Bentley Publishers for more detailed information:

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volvo/Volvo-240-1983-1993-Repair-Manual.html

Starter turns the engine but the car won't run or stalls.

Determine if the problem is due to a lack of compression, fuel or spark.

Compression – view the camshaft with the oil cap removed while cranking to make sure it turns, this will verify the timing belt hasn't broke. Perform a compression test.

Spark – hold a spark plug wire close to the fender while cranking (away from the battery) to verify a strong orange spark. If no spark:

With the key on, verify that battery voltage is present on the blue coil wire (terminal #15). Take resistance measurements on the coil. Inspect the distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires.

For 89-93 EZ-116K: Check for ignition trouble codes using socket 6. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 89-93 Inspect/replace the crank position sensor. Add dielectric grease to the heat sink of the power stage. Verify power to the ignition ECU. Verify the operation of the temperature sender and throttle switch.

For 83-88 Volvo/Chrysler system: Verify power, ground, and the output signal from the Hall Effect sender contained inside the distributor. Be careful with the connector, it will break easy. Verify battery voltage is present on the blue ECU wire (#2). Verify the operation of the throttle switch. A 83-88 diagnostic flow chart can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=5403

Fuel – 1989-1993 LH2.4-LH3.1: Check for fuel trouble codes using socket 2. See http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm

For 75-90 inspect and clean the 25A blade fuse on the fender by the coil, fuse 4, and the holders. For 91-93 the underhood blade fuse was replaced by fuse #6.

For 75-84 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 5 and 7. For 85-93 place a jumper wire on the left side of fuses 4 and 6. Both the in-tank and main pumps will now run constantly, listen for them. If the car starts with the jumper installed then most likely the fuel pump relay is bad. For 85-93 the system and fuel pump relays are combined into one package, clipped on the firewall above the passenger's feet. As a safety feature the pumps won't run unless spark is present.

AMM – The air mass meter can be placed in a "limp-home" mode by unplugging it while the battery is disconnected. If the car starts with it unplugged (but still runs rough) then most likely the AMM is bad. Make sure it is being powered by the system relay.

O2 sensor – inspect the fuse that powers the sensor heater. A wire from the sensor will connect with a thick green wire on the firewall, peel back the rubber boot during a warm idle. Measure the voltage, it should cycle quickly between .2 (lean) and .8 VDC (rich).

Coolant Temp sensor – a coolant temp of 180 deg. F should have a resistance of ~300 ohms. Resistance will increase as temperature decreases.

For 1975-1982 CI/K-jet fuel injection see: www.k-jet.org

The LH2.2 (85-88) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=4435
The LH2.4 (89-93) wire diagram can be found here: http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?act=...ost&id=6138

Links:

Parts, FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com/

Parts, IPD USA: http://www.ipdusa.com/

Art Bernstein's 240 repair site: http://www.cleanflametrap.com/

The Brickboard FAQ/forums: http://www.brickboard.com/

ECU/AMM matrix: http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

Hi -
Recently had my ac switched over, and since then the electrical components have all started dieing? First the over-drive light would dimly lit sometimes(still does), the seat warmer stopped working, the intermittent function on the wipers stopped, the chime when i start the car doesn't always "chime" when i start it, and today the blinkers both stopped working and the brake failure light flashed for a moment? Could the ac conversion of fried my electrical, or purely coincidence? doesn't that always seem to be the case when you take your car in to get fixed? :/ none of these things started until after i get the ac converted. Any info would be appreciated.

I was enjoying the warmer weather yesterday and was poking around the car. I had a look at my motor mounts and noticed that the driver's side rubber seems a bit off centre. Is this mount on its way out? Sorry for the poor quality photos, they were taken on my mobile.

Thanks
Matt

wondering if anyone could let me know if the fuel pump is supposed to prime the line every time the key is turned to the #2 position? Mine does some of the time I think the fuel pump relay is failing...also could this cause what I believe to be vapor lock?

Blah blah blah random no start.

Replaced Fuel pump relay, and life was good for awhile.

Here's where I am:

1. Intermittent fuel pump relay failure
2. Soft buzzing from pump in main tank
3. Fuse #6 is hotter than hell!!!

Not hot enough to actually blow the fuse, but hot enough to MELT the plastic fuse body! I had to scrounge for an older ceramic fuse.

Any advice? Also- does anyone have a fuel tank bung tool I can borrow?

(I know, I said bung)

1982 245A

Recent work, replaced hoses, thermostat, all belts.

Current issues - leaking power steering fluid from driver side of assembly inside baffle. Separate topic.

New noise, very recent....

Will not make sound until I engage the clutch. Will make sound before wheels move, ruling out bearings. Can't replicate sound in neutral at any rpms's. No tach, so sound start low mid rpm's and goes to mid high rpm's. As it get louder it sounds more orbital. Mainly 1st and 2nd gear. no loss of power or slipping in trany.

Starts with a tink, turns to a rattle, then becomes some sort or orbital sanding sound. it almost sounds like something in the exhaust like pebbles going orbital in the pipe.

Wife drove, I ran next to her...seems to be near gear box.

Clutch going bad? Can't feel it.

Transmission going out? Doesn't slip or grind

odd ball whatever - seems probable.

Help appreciated.

On a 90 240DL. I was told I need to change the neutral safety switch to get the reverse lights to work. I bought one, now I need to know, "Where does it go" and "how hard of a job is it"? Thanks Tommy

Hi, I have a 240 DL and the AC is not working. I have taken it completely apart and blew out all the hoses and condenser and evaporator. when I put it together and vacuumed the system and put in a can or so of 134a ( the system had already been converted). I get 30 psi on the low and 225 on the high side, but no cool air. Are the psi correct for this system? what am I missing?

I wanted to ask a question about a in tank fuel pump. I know this one was not disgust, because I read 60 plus pages of this forum.I could be wrong! I replaced my in tank pump,but when I got the new pump it was not like the old one. I thought I was watching the new pumps + and - but I could have messed up with the wiring. Dam that Vodka and those Beers! Question is can a pump run backwards and still get gas from just the main pump pulling.Did I also tell you my fuel level indicator was now always reading full. In trade I will let you know where to get the exhaust pipe between the manifold and the catalytic converter cheap. Would you believe Advance Auto Parts $115.00 and about $14.00 for gaskets. I was about $170.00 plus shipping on the internet.Save about $85.00 bucks. OK thanks and please let me know.

Hello,
I Inherited a 1981 Volvo wagon that was my fathers after when he passed in 1999, the car is of great sentimental value to me.I do my best to keep it up and replace parts and over the years It's cost quite a bit.I was hoping maybe someone would be able to help me with an issue I'm having currently with it.I was driving it the other day and all of the sudden it began to idle roughly with a strange knocking sound,the sound isn't present while driving,but at lights and in especially in park and when I turn the key off ,however it seems a bit bogged down and not as spunky while accelerating and normal driving,One thing I noticed was the when I placed the shifter in park the car would roll a little until I pushed on it "it seems to have started about the same time as my other issues" another symptom is after driving it for a while I stopped the car to run a quick errand when I started it again it sputtered and stalled it started back up and did the same thing also accompanied by a whining sound coming outta the back seat,after waiting 15-20 minutes she started back up and drove home...So I'm thinking fuel pump,clogged fuel filter,some kinda sensor on the linkage? Any Ideas would be greatly appreciated the mechanics in my town have made enough money from me and really don't want to do work unless I've got a minimum of $2000 to spend thanks in advance....

Hey All.

I am currently in the process of shopping for a 1986-1993 Series 240. My previous vehicle was stolen, and I have only about $2200 to use to buy and make roadworthy a car.

I am wondering what condition vehicle I can expect in the $1500 neighborhood. I drove out yesterday to look at a car I found in the classifieds, and it was an inexcusable pile of hot garbage. The seller was asking $1300, and given its condition, I might have been able to painfully fork over $400 tops for it. Needless to say, I was disappointed.

Also, if anyone has any leads on a good example of a 200 Series Volvo near Detroit (I am willing to travel about 100 miles for a car) for under $2K, please private message me.

I miss my previous Volvo and hope to find a nice replacement before it gets too cold out. I am capable of a lot of repairs myself, but would prefer something that is not in need of too much attention until the spring because I have class from now until May and need a commuter car to make a 40 mile daily round trip. I am open to either a sedan or a wagon, and would prefer a manual transmission, but would be content with a solid-running automatic.

Thanks Much! -Ben

Car was acting like it was out of gas. Per other forum threads, I jumped fuses 4 & 6 and was able to start the car. I just replaced the fuel pump relay but the car still won't start -- unless I jump fuses 4 & 6. Could the new fuel pump relay be bad or do I need to look elsewhere?

Please advise.

I recently upgraded my 91 240 air conditioning to use 134a refrigerant. It turned out to be not as bad as I thought.

I bought a Volvo upgrade kit (around $75) which comes with 134a compatible fittings and O-rings. Installing all of the supplied hardware was easy. However, once it's all put together, you have to evacuate the system of air before adding the 134a.

I have a vacuum pump so I was all set. You might be able to just have an A/C shop evacuate and fill your system for not too much.

If you fill it yourself, make sure you use 134a that is compatible with R-12 residues or you'll have big trouble. If an A/C shop does this, talk to them about this.

Being cool in the summer is neat!

A faulty air box thermostat caused super hot air to be pumped into the AMM. This caused the AMM to malfunction and the computer went into full-rich mode. This, in turn, sooted up my O2 sensor which lit up my Check Engine light and registered an O2 sensor failure diagnostic code.

As a temporary fix, I disconnected the aluminized tube leading to the exhaust manifold (at the manifold) and pointed it towards the front of the car. This stopped the hot air from being pumped into the airbox.

Fortunately, the AMM wasn't permanently damaged and started operating properly. I replace the sooty O2 sensor and all was well again.

I ultimately replaced the air box thermostat (pain in the neck) and re-attached the aluminized tube to the manifold. Actually, I could just disconnect the tube in the summer and reconnect it in the winter and forget about the air box thermostat.

Where exactly is the fuel filter located on the 240? I've gone from the tank, through the inner panel and down through spare tire, but then everything is covered up. Any suggestions? Ethanol is ruining the environment - think of all those filters etc going to landfills. . .

i have a 1990 240 dl. when i purchased it this spring everything seemed fine, but about a month after i bought it, it developed a number of problems. i have fixed the coolant system and replaced the engine mounts and am working on replacing the exhaust, but it's most serious issue is this: when the car hits a bump or rounds a corner, the back end sways back and forth (side to side), sometimes making a creaking sound. most of my mechanical experience is on motorbikes, so i'm not sure what to look for or what to suspect as the cause. can someone give me some pointers?

thanks

Hi all, just a visitor looking for some help. my brother has a 93 240 that recently got broken into and had a screwdriver jammed into the ignition lock. i got him a kit to replace it and all the other locks, as a few of them were keyed differently. However, the kit came with the whole wheel lock assembly, including both the ignition switch and lock cylinder. i am hoping i can just remove the cylinder and replace the one that is currently in his car, but i have no idea if this is possible. i have to go to D.C. to do this for him this weekend, which is about 4 hours away, and i cant eyeball any of the stuff to see what tools i am going to need. if anyone has replaced one of these and can give me a rough idea of the required tools, and if i will need to replace the whole wheel lock or if i can just pull out the ignition lock cylinder, i would appreciate it greatly. i know doing the whole wheel lock assembly will be a PITA if that's what i have to do. thank you for anyone who can give me some assistance.

[size="3"][/size]Hello people.......I joined this forum hoping some volvo experts may be able to point me in the right direction with my rally car.....basically im building a ford mk 2 escort but running it on all volvo 240 running gear ( engine box and axle)....this way it is much cheaper as the axle is strong enough and dont have to spend 2000 on an atlas, the engine is bomb proof and more poerfull than a standard pinto....but anyway ill get to the point....what is the best route for the gearbox...are there any straight cut gear kits out there or dog box's off the shelf.....any basic mods i could do to improve power etc....let me know your thoughts .....many thanks

Got a 244GL sedan and this morning put the key in the switch and turned it and got nil response. Took the kids to school, came back and tried again a bit more thoroughly.

Volts on the battery.

Gear in P okay. Still nil response. Kept trying and suddenly I get a beep-beep-beep continually while ever the switch is in the lock. Tried again later and now I get a continual agitated 'brrrrrrrr' kinda sound. No sign of lights or any other electrical activity.

The switch itself feels funny. No feel of 'steps' within in it, just a smooth rotation of the key around as you turn it, no sort of 'clicking' from one position to the next.

Seems to me pretty definite the switch has broken.

Can anyone confirm that fits the symptoms for me? Suggest further troubleshooting?

Point me to where I can find a workshop manual or something that will describe how to replace a switch?

regards,

ab

south australia
08 85324176

Looks like my ignition switch on our 244GL went to heaven during the night. Key just turns without any sign of resistance whatever. No starter motor. No lights. Nothing.

Anyone know how I can get the switch out? Looks to be a 'remove whole front panel' type job - way beyond me, I think.

Anyone know how I can start and run the car without the switch so's we can put it somewhere else in the garden (luckily happened during the night in the carport) ? Feels as though the wires are securely fastened inside the switch rather than something that unplugs. So probably necessary to cut the wires, in which case which ones would I reconnect or put switches in so's we could work the car?

And, lastly, does anyone know where I could download or otherwise get a user manual that shows this kind of detail?

regards,

ab

Okay- So the Bride was rockin' the wagon whilst I'm replacing her transaxle seal

, and I get the dreaded "it's overheating and smoking call".

She lets it cool for an hour, and limps it home (only a few blocks). All I can hear is a slight whine from the water pump, otherwise all the normal clickety noises of a reasonably maintained 245. So here's where I now stand:

1.Thermostat is less than six months old
2.new water pump and coolant today
3.Flushed radiator. Great flow, with no crap or chunks coming out
4.Yes, I burped the system after I put the coolant back in
5.The thermal compensator got ditched two months ago, so the gauge is fairly reliable.

So now to the problem: it's still running hot. Not the burning death head-warping hot, but whenever I kick on the A/C, the temp climbs. If I stay moving, she can handle it, but stop-and-go traffic combined with Louisiana heat is kicking her a$$.

Last week this wasn't an issue. I could leave it idling in the parking lot while picking up the kids, and come back to a content car. Not anymore.

Suggestions? My only suspicion is perhaps a weak thermostat that isn't opening up enough (is that even possible

)

Thanks guys!

Hi all-

I've just purchased an '88 240 DL and want to replace the radio. How can I determine if a brand-new Blaupunkt is compatible with the upper dash radio space in my car? Thanks.

ok so i have a 1994 volvo 850. i bought it from a guy and the ac compressor clutch kicked on and off rapidly. neighbor told me it was bad so i went to a junkyard and got a differant one that looks way better then mine and feels less shacky(the pulley i mean). now, i hooked it up and bolted that pain in the **** thing back up jsut to have nothing change, except now it does not come on at all. i bought a bunch on refill cans and was told after evert time the gauge hits 50, to pull the refill can off the line and poke the needle on the line with a screwdriver until all the airs out. then go again. neighbor said 2 cans should work. still nothing has changed. i live in 110 degree climates and really need a ac system to work. anyone got any suggestions, am i not suppose to be bleeding that line, how many cans do i use, is there a way to tell if the compressor is bad, anything will help so please help me. thanks

Howdy -
A newbie here to this community. Need some answers to my 240 conundrum. I just purchased an 89 wagon and just last week had the ac converted(didn't work because it was out of frion)from r12, to I'm not really sure(had it done at the mechanic). Since I had it fixed, the car drives so sluggish, I mean I expect it drive pretty bogged down considering the weight of the wagon, but..something seems off. I've also noticed if I'm idle at a long light, it starts to overheat to just before the red zone, and I have to turn the ac off to cool, also noticed the overdrive light will lightly dim for a moment when starting the car, and then will go off after a minute, now when the light dims on, its not fully bright and it's not engaging the overdrive, the overdrive works fine and engages when i push the button,...and then yesterday I noticed when I start the car with the ac on, the check engine light stays on for a few seconds, than goes off??? It's like the car really dislikes the ac. I've tried to research the problem, but the only things I can find are possible overcharge or vaccum leak?. It seems to me to be something electrical, but I really don't know that much about cars. Otherwise the car drives GREAT with no ac on. Any answers? Thanks!

Does anyone know how to test the catalytic converter to determine if it is bad? ('83 Volvo 245DL)

Any help is much appreciated

Hey everyone.

The previous owner of my 240 had a thickie moment one day and tugged on the hood release hard enough to separate the cable from the release lever, thus leaving me only one way to open the hood: on my back underneath the front of the car prying at the latch with a screwdriver. This is less than convenient in a lot of locations, especially service stations, and I prefer to check my fluids on ANY car when I stop for fuel. Thus, the situation drives me bonkers. At least I'm lucky the there are no active leaks.

Anyways, how should I go about correcting this? Where has the cable for the release handle gone? Should I get a new cable/latch assembly, as our local Volvo mechanic suggested, or is there a way to fix it? The cable IS connected to the mechanism under the hood, but not at the other end.

Thanks for any help!

Hi Everyone,

I'm missing a few of the rubber grommets that you screw the roof rack into--and the existing ones are all dried out--so water is leaking into my 240 wagon. Has anybody found any replacement nuts/grommets? I tried searching online (and called the dealer) but haven't been able to locate any.

If you could point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

Jon

Hi Friends,

I want to do the work myself installing a new Engine Temp Compensator Board for my Volvo 240.

Is this something fairly easily done with simple tools? Please detail.

Thanks,

Scott

hello fellow volvo enthusiasts,

i have an 89 245DL (240 station wagon) and i have recently been having problems getting it started and keeping it running. thinking the battery was the problem, i got a brand new one and was able to drive it for a day or so before it once again refused to start. the battery reads 14V with nothing connected, but when i turn the car over, the voltage drops to less than 4V. my understanding is it should remain in the 9-10V area when being started.

also, when i jump start the car and its running, the lights in the dash flicker, especially the battery light. also, even once the car is jump started, it will die shortly after. it sputters a bit and then just stops running and i smell unburnt fuel. im thinking the alternator isnt putting out enough juice to make a proper spark and this is why it stops running. also, im guessing the alternator is not charging the battery. does this sound right?

if that does sound right, should i test the alternator on the car or should i just replace it? if the answer is to replace it, can anyone confirm that the alternator on this vehicle is found on the underside of the engine on the passenger side? anything tricky about removing it?

thanks!

Just wanted to point out the fact that this vehicle will (supposedly) be in Gran Turismo 5 just as it was seen in GT4.

Also, I'm wanting to know if the stock transmission of the '88 GLT Estate is the same as my '84 DL Estate. I want to see just how well my car could/would do at Laguna Seca or around Nordschleife!

If the ratios are not the same, where can I find the gear ratios of my car and just plug those numbers into a fully customizable transmission?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I have an 84 GL, and was wondering. Do you really have to replace the timing belt at 40,000 miles? It would seem like all engines use this giant rubber band, and most manufacturers recommend 100k to 120k.

Hey guys
I have had volvos for a while now, but have never done much maintenance on them and so now I am frustrated when trying to do it on my own.

I am trying to replace one of the alternator belts as it is pretty worn out however to remove it, it looks like I need to remove the compressor belt as well to get to the alternator belt. Adjusting the alternator was quite easy, however I am finding the compressor much more challenging to adjust. It seems like there is a lot of help to doing it on pre-87 models, but I cant find much help for the newer models.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and please be gentle to the newbie
Thanks
Chris

Hey everyone. This is my first post, because as of today, I'm the proud recipient of an '89 240DL.

My problem is thus. The previous owner has two CD stereos that came with the car. One was a Panasonic, the other a Pioneer. As I have done car stereos before, I decided to take a stab at this. The complaint the previous owner had is that his Panasonic amp suddenly stopped outputting sound one day a few weeks back, and he was going to replace it but hadn't had the time. Whoever put in the Panasonic did a piss-poor job of it, as there is nothing left of the factory plugs. Nevertheless, I went with what was connected already to put the new harness in for the Pioneer, and I didn't do it the stupid way (electrical tape? really?), but lo and behold, I have a fully functioning deck and no sound. Nothing out of any of the four speakers.

Is there anything else in the car that could be causing this?

About a year ago I purchased my 17 year old son a 1991 Volvo 240 that had 55,000 miles on it. We bought the car from an estate in Houston, Texas. The car belonged to an elderly woman who drove the car once a week to the grocery store. We are the second owners of the car and it currently has 66,000 miles on it. The car is in great shape and has no rust. He loves the car, but we've become increasingly concerned about the safety of the car for a teenaged driver (only one air bag). We've recently put new tires, brakes and muffler on the car. Here's my question - How much is the car worth and how do I market it? We've got about 5K invested in the car.

Hi. This is my first time on here

My torslanda tailgate hinge has broken (93 model year).
What sort of a job is it to replace this?
Is there any problem that I may find when replacing these parts?

any comments will be helpful

Thanks

Good Morning to all!

New to the site and I have a issue with my 1991 Volvo 240. I have replaced calipers (Girling LF and ATE LR), flex lines, pads, etc. I was bleeding the brake system, with a power bleeder, which hasn't been done. I followed the bleed sequence and went though twice to ensure I got rid of the old fluid. On the second and final bleed, the right rear caliper quit putting out fluid. The bleeder is clean and I think it could be the rear brake valve but I am not 100% Any thing else I can try first??

Your help will be appreciated!

Rich Geister

1982 1/2 245 DL wagon with 4 cyl.
New to working on cars but have done a few things already to this gem.
Want to replace all drive belts - easy to spot tensioner for alternator and power steering, cant find the tensioner for the AC unit.

I'm sure I'm missing something stupid...help is appreciated.

So i was driving to work yesterday - car was running great then all of a sudden it just died.
Engine would turn over but not start.

Got it towed to a volvo mechanic up the street and he just called back saying it needed a new fuel pump relay and a brain box.

Whats a brain box? Is he talking about the Engine Control Unit? If so how hard are those to replace?

He also said it would be $600 to repair which is way more than i can afford to put in to it.

I just replaced the O2 sensor on a 1983 Volvo 245 DL. The car runs fine. It won't pass the CA smog though. (High NOx).

The O2 sensor does not oscillate from 0.1-0.9 Volts when tested with a volt meter. Is this an issue? I just replaced it...

Any help would be appreciated!

I recently installed rear shock absorbers on the 240 wagon and broke the end off the top mounting bolt. I over torqued it. Oops! Anyway, had to order a new one from Volvo dealership here in Franklin, TN. I'll have it tommorow afternoon.
This bolt with nut and washers cost me near $30. So, be careful out there when doing this job. I need to add a spacer/washer to both sides on the top shock mount bolt in order to tighten it snug enough to avoid the knocking noise it was making. It is a common problem according to the many threads on the topic on all the forums. No matter what brand of shock absorber - people still have the knock without the extra spacer/washer. Hope this sets it up right when I reinstall them this week.

Best of success to you all,

Brandon,
Franklin, TN

Ok, i've tried a few search queries with no luck so I'm posting the question to see if anyone can help. My 1990 245 has always had a low idle on startup, it starts fine, but upon firing the idle simply slowly achieves idle speed, there's no rev up high and settling down to idle as every other car i've owned or been in does. It wouldn't concern me other than it doesn't always start the first time, and i fear that in colder temps its going to have a hard time keeping itself running until its warmed up. Their are no codes present, so the car is giving me no help diagnosing the issue. A brief history of the car as it might point someone to a possible answer. The car was stored and to my knowledge not started for at least five years. When i took over possession of it, i changed all of the fluids, turned over the engine by hand to spread oil, and then without spark turned over the engine to bring up oil pressure. the long storage destroyed the fuel pumps, which i replaced, and the alternator also replaced. Other new parts are the crank position sensor, spark booster thingy, weather tight fuel fuse, and of course oil and filter. The car runs great once it achieves idle, it only has 140,000 kilometres on it.

Where is the rear intermittent wiper relay? I'm guessing that's my problem since the rear wiper works otherwise. Thanks!

Hello,
My 91 240 is having some issues with the idle I believe...Usually, the car's idle gets too low over a long period of time and will sometimes shut off when I come to a stop. When I initially turn the car on the engine will have a knocking noise until I adjust the plastic piece on the idle control unit, and the screw directly below it. The plastic piece I'm referring to, I can not find the name of..I'm sure it needs to be replaced because it seems to be worn down and can easily come right off of whatever it's connected to with a slight tug...I have a picture I'll attach as well

David[attachment=7548:IMAG0036.jpg]

This is my first post - I hope I am doing it correctly!

My 1992 240 gl stalls when its hot outside and idling. This car if for my daughter so I have never experienced it my self. I have taken the car to two repair shops - one a volvo dealer and the other is a smaller shop specializing in volvos. Both have had a couple of shots at diagnosing the issue and have come up short.

We have been the only owners of this vehicle and it just started in the past two years. The car has 137,000 miles on it.

Any suggestions out there?

Thanks.

Lee

I have a 1992 Volvo 240 GL. All four power windows stopped working today. The main control panel on the driver's side does not activate the windows and the rest of the switches do not work also. I checked the fuse box and the fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and as soon as I turned the car on, the fuse blew again. I repeated this and the fuse keeps blowing. I'm not familiar with the electrical in this car, but I am assuming it's an electrical short within the driver's side door...? The rest of the electrical is in working order with the car. Any ideas or help would be great! Thanks

I have a 1989 Volvo 240 DL 4dr. Ran great all summer. As it started to get cold out she just shuts off while driving. When trying to restart it's a strong turnover but nothing. I'm thinking fuel pump. Any ideas. Help.
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ACURA shocks and struts
ACURA quick strut
MAZDA shocks and struts

Hey guys,

I have a 1992 Volvo 240 that was recently broken into. They ripped out the newly installed radio which messed up the wiring inside. The dashboard no longer lights up, when I turn on the light on the ceiling of the car it makes the beeping noise for when the car door is open, and when i push down on the drivers side lock it also makes the beeping noise. I want to take off the dashboard to get at the wires inside but I want to know the best way to take it off without damaging it, and how to fix the wiring. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone.

My passenger side gate hinge is completely broken - I picked up a replacement but I can't figure out how to get the headliner down to access the "ceiling"

I am just looking for tips so that I don't start breaking things :-) Any help is much appreciated...

Thanks!