Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

IS THERE AN EXTERNAL PUMP LOCATED IN THE REAR ON PASSENGER SIDE NEAR GAS TANK? THIS IS MAKING A LOUD HUM NOISE AND I AM GOING TO THE BONEYARD TOMORROW. SHOULD I GET ONE? ARE THERE FUEL PRESSURE CONCERNS WITH REPLACEMENT? THANKS. GEORGE

I just took my 1990 240 GL into the shop to get a hard starting problem figured out. They determined that the car needs a new mass airflow sensor and oxygen sensor. MAF is about $300 for just the part, oxy sensor is $150 for the part. It also needs a tune-up (new plugs, wires, dist. rotor, etc.) because apparently it hasn't had one in the life of the vehicle (!). Needs tranny fluid change, and, oh yeah, the speedo and odometer don't work. No A/C either.

I got this car for free from my in-laws. Should I just give it right back to them? It's got close to 200k miles. I don't know what I should get fixed and what is a waste with a car this old. Help me out here--I need your advice.

Thanks!

Adam

hey guys well i was just rolling my window down until the window stopped moving half way and the crank was still going....so im guessing the window came off the track? what do i do thanks

My beloved 240GL has a jammed shut glove box...the special key turns in the lock but the hatch cover refuses to budge ! Short of doing damage with a heavy screwdriver has anyone had this prob and managed to solve it ?

Hi there

Looking for some advice on a couple of issues I have with my 240.
The car is a '93 torslanda with 160,000 on the clock.

Firstly the fuel gauge doesn't work.
It used to, then it sometimes did, now it won't move at all.
I'm thinking that I need to get in behind the dashboard and replace a fuse...

Secondly there is an intermittant idle problem.
Every now and again whilst in neutral the revs drop off and the engine stalls.
Doesn't happen often, but when it does it persists for a while, usually till it gets turned off and left for a bit. I've also noticed some pulling from the engine during motorway driving which may be related. It's a pretty rare event, but somethimes (whilst on the motorway) the engine drops all power then kicks in again, giving a lurching/pulling motion.
I'm thinking it might be something to do with my injectors...

And, while I have your attention, the llamada light on my dash has just lit.
I reckon it's my cat, but if anyone can confirm that then I'll resign myself to the large bill that will accompany it.

These issues aren't stopping me getting about, but any help or advice would be gratefully apreciated.

cheers
Doug

this car is a real pain. I just did a complete tune-up and cyl.head replacement to get the car to pass smog. finnaly passed yeh. on the way to smog the car all the warning lights came on but after sitting for a few minutes they went out . friend told me they came on again when she was going down the freeway but went off again. i cheched the charging system was good. now i have no dash indicator lights and the car will not start. i cheched all the fuses and they were ok. i also cheched for spark also ok car has gas but not starting seems to be an electrical problem maybe in the dash but not sure any help would be greatly appreciated

hey guys im going to get new suspension components for my 84 244 dl and was wondering what to get...i have looked at ipd and looked at there struts and shocks...since i am gettng new ones i want to get some performance types. bilstein or koni? which one is better? i want to make my car feel like it handles for the track. then it comes to springs...i need new ones def. so i want to get the sport springs by tme sweden from ipd....and i just looked at some on their site and they said sport springs by IPD not from tme sweden..whats the deal? thats just for now cause i do not have a whole lotta money lol. what would u get ? thanks

Hey I bet yall have heard this before but I'm about to be the new owner or a '93 240 but the one problem for me is that the only 240 i can find in my area are automatics and i just love 5-speeds. I was wondering witch tranny should i use withthis 240 a M46 or aM47, or any other reccomendation, and then where I could find these parts. Thanks you!

Hello, new to the forums!

Has anyone here taken apeart their door and re-spooled a window? It's a manual window, right side. I know it can't be too tough to take the door off and re-spool it- any help?

Hi again everyone,

1986 Volvo 240 Wagon

I've replaced the ICU (the Programa type ICU seems to be more rare and consequently more expensive than the Bosch so i've reluctantly paid $135 for it) as i need to get this sorted out, anyway i've put the new ICU in and i'm still having same problems, this morning (only 1 day after fitting new part it woudn't start) perhaps i should look at more basic solutions;

Last week the after the car stopped and the battery went flat after turning it over for 30 minutes i called the RACV. The call out guy looking at the car couldn't work out what was happening, he said there WAS enough fuel getting through but here is no spark, no spark at the coil either i think he said, like nothing was getting through... a fuse perhaps?

He was orgainising the tow truck i gave it another turn over (the battery was fully charged again so had plenty of juice it it, i was completely surprised and releived when it started!... somewhat a waste of the $170 to join RACV on the spot and have the patrol come out BUT is has given me somemore clues i suppose.

I'm not sure what to look for now, ANY advice as to why the car would stop intermittantly will be really gratefully received some ideas i've considered are battery hasn't enough juice to give the engine spark (though it seems strong enough), the distributor might need replacing? The coil? The alternator (or would the battery just run completely flat after a couple of days if this was the case? Perhaps the 'NEW' ICU isn't working either?

Thanks guys for all you help! :]

p.s. the headlights seem to come on only after a 5-30 second delay also once switched on? Seperate issue but could be connected, will look at fuses, distributor contracts now i think.

This is my first post here, so thank you in advance for any help. I have a an '80-242 as stated above with the CIS system 4spd manual with elec. O/D. The car will start but run and idle poorly unless it is revved up considerably. It has always started hard but does not clear up once warm like it used to. I did a little imaginative engineering to the fuel pump relay... and substituted a 40 amp headlight relay. I figured out which wires make the high pressure pump run not sure what 3 blue wires do but the engine ran similarly to above unless power was supplied to them. I replaced cap & rotor as well as plugs but did not get a chance to check the wires as I was racing the sun. I have removed the strainer from the in-tank pump and replaced the little rubber hose that connects pump to fuel outlet pipe. The car was running only off the high pressure pump for short while due to the above problem and now makes a whining noise but has operated OK for last 10K miles. I am not interested in making the car perfect as far as the initial start problems are concerned; just making it drivable.

having cold start idling problems.car will start and just idle but then stops .it is a 244 84 model.has any body solved this problem yet.runs fine when warm
spaggo.

Hi,


As many of you know, I drive a 1984 Volvo 240GL (Auto) ...fitted with a B200E engine and a Pierburg 175 Cd carburetor. My car is close to perfect condition. However, there is one problem I have been facing ever since I got my car.


Everytime I start my car in the morning, it starts/ignites immediately. But after less than a second, it dies off. This happens no matter how many times I start the car. It just does not want to idle. Dies off everytime I start it. The only way to get it to idle and not die off is to pump the accelerator a couple of times after starting it. This helps to get the engine to idle. But the idling is very weak. It does not die off, but it feels like it would die, because the idling is so weak. The engine also vibrates violently while this is happening.


But after 7 minutes or so, when the engine warms up, the idling gets stronger and the engine vibration smoothens out a bit. Once the engine is hot, everything is perfect. Compression is good, tuning is also OK. No problems at all when the engine is hot.


This problem does not only happen in the morning. If I leave the car overnight without starting in the morning, but decide to start it in the afternoon when the weather is hot. I get the same problem. But once I get to work and its time to go home (9 hours later) and I try starting the car in the evening, it starts and idles (but the idling is weak). The engine only fails to idle when I start the car for the first time of the day. Does not make any dufference whether it's in the morning or afternoon. The first start of the day is what gives me problems.


I have tried everything. I recently serviced the carburetor (changed some carb parts too). Tuned it and tuned everything else. But still the same thing. Everything stablises only when the engine is hot.


A few months ago, I got my car tuned during servicing. The morning cold start problem was solved. The idling was good. But I had to retune the car because the tuning was not right. I found that my fuel consumption was a bit high. But after re-tuning, the cold start problem came back, but everything else was perfect.


Has anyone encountered this problem before? Any idea what the problem might be? I have taken my car to so may Volvo specialists (all of them were former FA mechanics), but none of them could solve this problem. They can tune my car to perfection, but the cold start problem still persists. Need help!!


Regards.


Mark David

I have a 1989 Tan interior Volvo 240 DL. The carpet on the rear deck (where speakers are) is badly stained. Anyone know where I can get a replacement, online prefrably.

Thanks

Syzygyone

to all you pre 1977 Volvo owners [well at least the 2 series ones] I have been forced by ineptitude of Bosch so called experts to become an expert on the fuel injection system fitted to these cars [and to Mercedes, BMW, and exotic Italian as well]

the system is called continuous, mechanical, K Jetronic or "that bloody system" but as I say I have paid $1,000 to make mine worse and then got the book, took the whole lot apart and fixed it

so whatever your questions on the distributor, the injectors, the WUR or whatever I am a full bottle and can explain how to fix those cold start, warm start, hot start, no start etc problems or at least explain where to start looking/measuring

Hi,

I've broken part of one of my keys off in the trunk lock. For a while I was able to open the trunk regardless, but now the lock just won't open anymore. I took it to the dealer (locksmiths refused me any help) and they gave me a quote of about $600!

Yikes!

Is there a cheaper way to get this fixed?

Thanks!

Is there some special trick to pulling the spark plugs wires out?

Hi There,

I know that after many years of driving, carbon will build up at certain areas in the engine. I drive a 1984 Volvo 240GL, and I have a strong feeling that my engine has accumulated a lot of carbon build up. How can I do the de-carbonising? How is it done? How much will it cost? Does anyone know who can do it? Any recommendations? Thank you.

Mark.

hey guys u know how the volvos had boxes that held 5.25 speakers in the back?? well i have done somethin to the rear deck...i have took out the 5.25 which sucked cause i had pioneers then...and now i have modified the back to house 6.5 speakers...alpines this time around...and they sound great...wayy better than before..what do u think ... did i do the right thing??? or no....100 bucks for what i had to do for the car including speakers...thanks just needed another view point at this

hi ya gand well i hope sombody can help me out with this one.we have a 86 240 gl wagon that has 171,000 miles on her that is in verry godd shapw for her age and runs verry well to but now it has a problem somtimes when im going down the road it will just die and will not start for about 10 min.or so and when it does start when i reach 2.5 rpms it will sie agian to.after about another five or six trys it will start and run great and the maybe a few days later it will do the same thing all over.ive replaced the fuel filter,the coil,fuel pump realy,the pic up coil in the dist.,put a new wiring harness on the fiel pump becase it was frayed,took off the throtel body and clend it verry well. and it is still doing the same thing sombody said it may be the big black box on the washer fluid tank the control mog.i need help i thiught i was a perty good tech. but this one has me baffeled please help me out thanks

Hi,

I drive a 1984 Volvo 240GL (Auto). Just wondering what are the advantages of electrical grounding. I see these grounding wires being sold in most car accessory shops and they look easy to use. If I were to do the grounding for my car, would it be advised? Will I be able to feel any differences to my car when driving it? Also, what are the points that I should ground?
Thanks in advance.

Mark David

1986 240DL sedan with automatic.
The OD doesn't work when it's not warmed up. I drive 25 miles on the highway each way to/from work. When I go to work, or go home, even on hot days, the OD won't kick in until I've driven 6 or 7 miles. Then it works perfectly as long as the car stays warmed up. When it's not working, I have to keep the speed around 65-70. I push the switch and the light comes on, push the switch again and the light goes off, but the OD doesn't kick in. Then, all of a sudden, after 6 or 7 miles, it just kicks down to OD and works great after that.
Where do I start with this? What's likely to be the problem?

Thanks!
Thomas

yea today i was driving and i had just filled up my tank and drove about 15 miles and the the white number stopped. why did that stop? is it broken? my odometer and my speedometer still work. my odometer it hink works but im not sure. but the tripmeter is the problem. is it fixable? thanks

Howdy! I'm new here and new to Volvos. I'm a VW Rabbit enthusiast, but had to sell one of my cabbies (Rabbit convertible) to get more room for butts. I test drove this volvo and fell in love. Got it for $500. But I have some questions. Some easy, some not so easy.
1. What size engine is it? Is there more than one? How do I tell?
2. In the VW world the Bentley manual is king. Before I go buy a Haynes, can you tell me how good it is? Should I buy the Bentley for Volvo?
3. What fuel injection system is this using? K-Jetronic or something else (it's non-turbo and automatic tranny).
4. Is this an interference engine? How often should the timing belt be done? I'm going to do it, since I've no idea how old it is, but if it's a non-interference engine I don't feel bad about waiting a bit.

I have some other questions, but they're more technical and specific, so I'll create topics for those.
Many thanks! Hope this forum is as informative and friendly as the VW ones are!
Thomas

hey guys yeah i have a question...theres like soemthin squeakin...when im just rolling along w/o pushin the gas pedal...just rolling..it makes this sqeaking sound...is it maybe because i ran over that pothole??and somethig is messed up with my wheel?? thanks

I keep seeing this OEM acronym while i'm looking for parts, what does it stand for and what does it mean?

thanks

I have a 93 volvo 240 which has been running great since about a month ago.
Im a 22 year old volvo tech out of SAFE but all I know are the new volvo's. I have no experience with the 240 systems, nor any tech at work to help me. Here was I have going on. The 240 will idle great but as soon as you off idle it, it will start bucking and misfiring bad. Under a load or just sitting there in park.
fuel pressure within specs, maf with in specs, i've changed the ecm and had no luck. ect, knock and tps all within specs. I was wondering if the ignition module might be bad? When it starts misfiring, it's running rich, you can smell it. I can't figure it out and it is kicking my butt. I've already put both fuel pumps, cap rotor coil plugs maf and a flame trap. I hate throwing parts at it but theres senior volvo tech here. The other volvo tech is a toyota master who/s been woking on volvo's for as long as i have 1yr. Any input would be a great help.

hey guys! this is my first post!
jsut wanted to quickly say that despite bad reputation i have maximum respect for the ol 240gl - back when i drove one i once burnt a turbo skyline to 100kmh;)

and the prob.. overdrive is not working and pressing the button does NOTHINGGG
there is no response in revs or driving or anything it feels useless, touching switch wires together with it in gear doesnt do anything...

the volv in question is an 86 240gl wagon aussie import 2.3l(?) 4speed manual with overdrive and i call it drifting cloud
my sisters been driving the beast for a bit and im taking it on a long drive tommorow but she neglected to warn me about the overdrive problems - it hasnt been working since the master and slaves were overhauled 6 months ago
i thought it was just the switch becuase the gearnob was loosened from years of drifting and it sometimes comes loose but its not that...
so i did a bit of research on ur awesome site and others...
i looked under the car and what i think is the solenoid (can see it from under passesnger side on the overdrive assembly and it looks like a black cylinder) had the yellow wire unplugged so i cleaned em up both up with steel wool and still no dice.
ive currently got the relay from behind the glovebox (i pulled it and the car still works) pulled it to bits on my desk and i cant find any testing help but it looks all spic inside. is there a way to tell if its the solenoid, relay or other? could it be something else? my parents keep the car well serviced for her at a volvo specialist...should i check gearbox oil? something overdrivey that my jap import doesnt have anything close to?? i want that electric euro special stuff!!

its just gonna be really annoying driving a good 900km with no overdrive ehhee please someone its gotta be a simple fix!! if i know what the prob is il be down at a volvo parts dealer firrst thing tomorrow!!!

hehe thanks in advance anyone please!! in the spirit of all things volvo:)

I have a 1982 Volvo 240 Diesel Wagon it was running Great! it turns over but wont fire up and run any suggestions on what the problem might be?

Hi all,

I was just wondering if anybody knows how I might install a new stereo in my 1986 Volvo 240 2.3 GL Est. I have a Sony CDX F7500 to put in it, but I haven't the foggiest idea on what I might need to get it in.

I also don't know how to get the old one out!

Thanks all,

Jimmy

PS. Also, what is the speaker size for the doors? I think its 10cm, but not sure.

I leaned back a little too hard in my driver side front seat this morning and broke the headrest on my 1986 240 DL. Now it is very loose and the appertatus that holds it in place seems to be all out of whack. Is there anything I can do to fix this? The whole top of my seat feels loose and unsecure now, I'm not sure what to do. Any advice?

Belt is loose and slips when A/C is on. Are there shims on the crank pulley, b/c it doesn't look like the A/C Comp is adjustable.

I went to Wal-Mart to have my oil changed, and the mechanic called me over the PA. I went back there, and he said he couldn't get the hood open. I found this very peculiar, so once I was home without an oil change, I crawled underneath there to try and figure it out. There's a wire that needs to be connected to something right close to the release mechanism, and I so I don't know where it goes. The release handle inside the car is in a position as though the hood was already open. Any ideas?

Ian Dunham

OK, everyone, this is my first trouble post: 1990 240 GL wagon, auto, after starting, after the engine warms up a little, we get a surging at idle as follows:
rrRRRRrr chug-chug-chug rrRRRRrr chug-chug-chug rrRRRRrr chug-chug-chug
it almost stalls on the chugs. The car has been sitting since xMas and my 16-year-old has been sitting in it playing the radio, waiting to get his license. We've started it up, briefly, but only put it on the road this week. On it's maiden voyage, this stuff started. Eric got his license this week, so he is frantic to get everything fixed so we can get an inspection sticker. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Hello all,

I wanted to know what the size range was for
valve adjusting shims, 91 Volvo 240 (smallest to largest
thickness available.)

Thanks, Icebrick

I am hoping someone here can help me as I am having zero luck anywhere else. I have a 1993 Volvo 240 (automatic) with about 135,000 miles on it. About a year and a half ago it started stalling. I have had 3 mechanics look at it and they all say it looks great. It seems to stall when I am going less than 5 miles an hour if my foot isn't on the gas or brake. Like if I am backing out of a parking space I have to put the gas on quickly so that it doesn't stall. It stalls more often if the air conditioner is on (which I try not to use as it causes the car to almost overheat if it is really hot outside). Also, sometimes when I am driving at high speeds it jerks a little every few seconds. I'm not sure if this is related. I have had the idle air motor replaced about a year ago. The only thing that seems to work is if the idle is turned up, but even when this is done the stalling problem comes back in a few months. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them the best I can!

reading one of your Google ads




Its a bit much having someone using the word doctor in vain [or in vein?]

The Divorce Doctor