Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

I am working on a 90' 240 (non turbo) it idles fine, although upon quick throttle or above 1500 RPM the fuel injectors stop getting signal and cut out. When the RPM drops below the threshold, the injectors kick back in. Any ideas?

Hi, need a little help here from someone with a brain, I've disqualified myself.

Me old '79 244 with the Stromberg won't run with the crankcase ventilation hoses in place, just seems to have too much gas coming from the engine.

I've checked the compression, 90-92 and even across all four. I've also done a 'tune-up' and oil change(s). One of the side effects of this is that the oil goes black real quick after a change. Tried the old 'squirt the oil and recheck the compression', same results.

Oh, car is real low mileage, about 130k kilometers or 80k miles, had a cam belt at 70k miles.

Anyone run into this before?

Thanks heaps.

I just got done having the dealer install a new neutral safety switch and a new shiftlock solenoid. And immediately after getting home I have a new problem: Just about every time I try to start, the engine cranks, then suddenly stops cranking before it starts. If I listen carefully I can hear the starter(?) spinning down (a whirring sound that lasts for no more than a second). The I release the key, turn it off, try again and usually it cranks and starts. A couple times (this has been two days now) it takes several tries.

Sounds like the solenoid is not staying engaged. Seem correct?

If that's correct, how do I determine whether the problem is the starter solenoid or the ignition swith? I have noticed flaky things from my ignition switch last winter - it would seem to stick in the 'start' position instead of just releasing back to 'on' when I release my thumb pressure on the key. But rarely and only when cold.

Then again - could any of this have to do with the repairs i just paid the dealer to do?

Thanks to all who have any ideas...

Hey! This is my first post and I am hoping to be able to identify this problem and fix it myself, or with a friend.

The up arrow on the dashboard is on (the overdrive arrow), and my car will not shift into 4th gear, I topped off the transmission fluid, which was low...
But all that happens when I try to de-press the overdrive button is the light faintly gets brighter and then I press it again and it faintly gets less brighter. Also the button does not "click" or really do anything when I push it, it almost feels like it is stuck but still sticking outwards it is not stuck inwards. Also it has been a problem for about 4 days and turning the car on and off does not re-set it like it is suppose to... in the past that light would be on but it would still shift into 4th, not any longer...What can I do? THANKS so much for reading this, I hope I was clear enough.

I was under my car today because for some reason i thought the tranny mount was loose, but instead all i saw was this.



All in all the mount wasnt loose.

WELL FIRST I HAVE YET TO GET UNDER THE CAR TO EXAMINE THE EXISTING

RELAY. NOW SAYING THAT, I WORK FOR AN ELECTRICAL DISTRIBUTOR AND

HAVE ACCESS TO A PLEATHERA OF ELECTRICAL COMPONETS, I HAVE LOOKED

AND LOOKED AND I CAN'T SEEM TO FIND A MANUFACTURER AND A PART NUMBER

FOR ONE OF THESE LITTLE BUGGERS. ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS??

1984 VOLO 244 DL SPEED MANUAL.

Hey guys. Brand new to the forum. Have been reading the posts here for the past hour and almost feel like my problem has been discussed already, but I'm desperate! Car turns over and will sputter/start for 2 seconds and the dies (Check cold start injector and works fine - I assume that's what that 2 second sputter is). Will start and run with starting fluid fine. Will just crank and crank without catching and never smelling gas. Here's what I did:
*New outside fuel pump a year old (changed only as preventative seeing that the original was in there for 30 years)
Last 2 days:
* Changed fuel filter (had a lot of gas pressure/leakage when I did)
* Swapped out fuel pump relay and fuse in fuse panel to no avail
*Changed the fuse to the in-tank pump
*Changed fuel pressure regulator next to the fuel distributor
*Checked air flow sensor plate
*Swapped out coil; changed plugs and coil (plug wires are only about a year old)
** I am concerned that the spark I get when plug is grounded to block is white/yellow, not blue. But it runs with the starting fluid no problem??

It's like there is no fuel getting to the 4 main injectors for some reason; could that mean the fuel distributor?? Yet fuel is geting to the cold start injector just fine.
Sure do apprciate any input; thank you!

Eric

My non-power antenna looks to be broken off, & I'd like to replace the booger. Of course, most places only have the power masts. Have any of you had any joy in adding some sort of aftermarket antenna to replace the OEM antenna? I'd like to install some sort of mast with a booster coil mast, since both the stock radio & my new deck get horrible AM reception
Cheers
Marty

http://community.seattletimes.nwsource.com...22&slug=1937339

"The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety based its findings on a study of four years' worth of accidents in which drivers were killed. The crashes occurred between 1989 and 1993 and involved 1988 through 1992 vehicles.

The group said no drivers of '88 through '92 Volvo 240s were killed during those years, so its death rate was the lowest."


The number 1 reason I bought a 240 ...

We're under the hood again, '82 245 DL auto, B21F, k-jet injection.

Intermittent stalling while running - whether cold or hot; at idle, coast, or under throttle, high or low fuel level - and no-start. Does not give any warning, no sputter, just cuts off dead. Sometimes starts right back up, sometimes not, but always eventually starts.

Question - How many fuel pump/fuel injector relays does this car have? Have replaced green under-dash fuel pump relay. Are there more in this car? Hard to tell from wiring diagram in Chilton manual. I thought only one, but figured I'd better check.

Car did this a year and a half ago. Found loose connection at fuel pump in tank with evidence of arcing, repaired and tested, but didn't fix problem. Tweaked a lot of wires and connections, used gas drier, eventually car just quit stalling (even took it on a 2500 mile round trip), not sure what we did!

Now the gremlin's back.

More problems, questions, but will wait for input on this one! I am searching archives, but not finding a lot on '82's, not sure if remedies for 86's, etc., apply...

THANKS SO MUCH!!! I'm so glad you guys are here!
Regina

A ps - car won't stall when driving very hard - i.e. holding manually in lower gears, foot to floor, full throttle. Can't drive like this all the time though (dogs thrown all around the car, cops not happy)

I am about to cry. I love my car and when driving down the freeway it more or less died. Upon checking every possible thing, my cousin and I figured the timing belt slipped a few teeth and needs to be replaced. Upon doing so the engine, after back firing once or twice and the distributor being jiggled, will start but with no power and it shakes a lot. Is it possible that the timing belt is not installed correctly or could one of the valves or pistons be bent? If the first, does anyone have a diagram of how it is suppose to look other then what is in the Haynes book. And if the later, is there a way to check this without pulling everything apart? I am about $6 from being absolutely poor and I need my car running as soon as possible.

Thanks,
Julie

Thank you everyone for your comments. I am glad to hear that there is not a possibility for bent valves. I am hoping that we can reset the timing correctly. It is also possible the wires were installed incorrectly. And to answer the question, the whole distributor, plugs, wires, and coil were changed. The compression has also been tested. We plan on attacking it again tomorrow. I will update when I have more news.

A screw has worked loose on my alternator repair and gouged the heck out of its cooling fan. I'm going to have to pull it back out and replace the screw & the fan. I can't tighten the screw temporarily because it's INSIDE the fan end plate perimeter, so no tool can get onto it without removal of the plate. BOSCH, why make life harder than it needs to be? I hate cars!!!! They deliberately aren't built for cheap, easy mantenance!!! I just hope it's not a weeks' wait & $$$ for a fan, just because it's 'special'! The screw is hard enough to get, the national nut & bolt suppliers agents stock of allen screws was inadequate last time too. I'm not expecting any improvement. I can't buy just 3 bolts of that size (4mmx110mm AFAIR) at a fair price if they aren't a stock item. The OEM philips heads are just an insult to myintelligenceas they're always too tight to get undone without cutting thru' at least one, because I haven't a complete tool range for every single different screw head I have to deal with, and the proliferation and complexity of choices of fixings is too great. It might be engineerinly ideal, but something less exacting and slightly larger and more common is better for servicability. The Krauts lost the war because they were too clever, and their equipment was too precise for ordinary folk to keep it running.

Hi all,

I've got a 240 dl wagon with 207,000 miles - drove it about 800 miles yesterday no problems. Today the battery/charging light came on slightly, flickering a bit. It got stronger and dimmer over the course of about half an hour of driving, sometimes going away completely but then coming back on in a minute or so. I got home and put it on the charger and the battery was drawing pretty good.

The battery is about 6 years old. The belts are tight.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Spencer

My mother bought a radiator for her 1987 240DL and it's for an automatic, though I know this doesnt matter much as the oil cooling holes will just go unused

however, it has a good sized hole near the top right side.
It's a Nissens Radiator.

I believe the hole is for a sensor, but it's a good sized hole with no threading.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/euro/catalog/s..._WATrad_pg1.htm

appears to be a plug and bushing for it, but I want to be 100% sure.


Also, what's the best way to take the old radiator off? do I have to drain the block?

What's the best bleeding procedure once coolant is added again?

I know bleeding is a very annoying process on my '86 BMW.

All my windows on my 93 240 have stoped working, none of the controls work on any of them. I have tried the fuse, but it appears ok, I changed it for good measure. Checked the manual wiring diagram, and it mentions a relay, could this be the problem? If so do you know where it is located? Any other ideas of how this can be sorted are appreciated.

Can someone please tell me what the part, circled in the photo, is, and what it does please? Volvo 240 GL

It is connected to the throttle assembly via a cable, but this cable does not seem to have any real movement effect on the part. Is that normal?

Thanks for your help.

[attachmentid=4585]

Had central locking fail after changing unrelated fuse that went due to age . 1989 740 Estate (Wagon).

Tried the fuse, relay, all wiring looked OK. After much hair pulling, dont have much to begin with, I located the problem.

I removed the fuse box/relay panel turned it upside down and discovered the supply wire was loose. This had been butchered by a previous attempt to 'repair' it and the spade would just not fit back into the relay base.

The cure was simple. I cut it off and crimped another terminal on to the supply wire re fitted the relay to its base then pushed the new terminal home.

Makes me wonder what other delights await me in other places on the car.

Still I am happy now and can at least unlock/lock my doors, a bonus this summer with all the rain we have had!

hi, i have a 1990 non turbo volvo with a b230f motor and was wondering what is out there as far as performance upgrades go

My 1990 240 has 85,700 miles on it. When I was driving the car and put it into neutral, I heard a noise like "a fan blade hitting metal". When the car is in drive there is no noise and seems to be fine. The noise also occurs when it is in "park".
I was about a mile or less from home when this occurred, and have not started the car since.

Can any one suggest the what the transmission problem may be?

Thanks, Phil

My longtime mechanic recommended I pull my roof rack, said it'd improve mileage by 3 mpg. I just filled up for the second time since removing the stock rack. The first tankful was all freeway, & I got about 3.5mpg better, and the second was my usual type of driving, & I got almost 3 better. IPD sells a Roof Rack Plug kit, but your vehicle already has plugs, & all I had to do was cinch the mounting screws down, & voila! Plus it is a bit quieter.

My 93 245 has always had a rattling plastic sound over bumps and start up since I got it last summer.I thought it might be a loose strut part or similiar.Looking thru the previous owner repair bills (all dealer work) The owner complained about "a plastic rattling sound behind the center console" only 9 months after they bought it new in 94...The dealer dismissed it as "coins in the ashtray".So this sound or loose part has been doing this for 14yrs!!I have a bad heater control valve and once I poked around under there to see how hard it would be to replace the valve.I saw no loose parts that would rattle,now I am wondering what part could remain loose shaking and rattling for 14 yrs,apparently with no ill effects,except for the aggravating sound???

Hi all I finally tracked down an annoying rattle, turns out that the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold is broken. I'm wondering what the pipe is called and how much of a pain it is to replace. I've had a quick look at a couple of parts website and can't find it anywhere. To me it looks like an air pipe that blows air on to the manifold?????


Any input would be great.

Cheers,
matt

Don't want to offend any purists out there, however I have a 265 Wagon fitted with a holden 253 V8 and trimatic (was like that when I got it). Wondering if anyone is aware of any brand of extractors that would suit this application. I imagine something designed for a LJ Torana might suit but unsure.
Many Thanks,
Golvo.

Please help and confirm what I have done. I have been given a no go 1990 240 wagon it was a broken belt, I removed the head to recondition it. I now have two options for finding tdc on the flywheel one is correct and the other will be 180 degrees out. I have removed the bottom reinforcement casting and watched the indents1 from the engine side go round, I have visually placed them more or less level with the ignition timing hole and then nudged no.1 piston up/back to tdc. On this stroke i intend to rebuild, is this correct.

Anyone out there know the size of my 93 245 rearlower shock bolts??The volvo dealer in town says the size is not in the parts book???

The fuel gauge on my '93 240 seems to have a life of its own, it sometimes reads fine , but the majority of the time it just reads empty, occassionally showing the right reading then dropping again. I'm sure I read some where this was caused by a blocked vent pipe? Anybody have any knowledge of this, or any ideas to sort this problem?

I was trying to set my idle air bleed adjustment screw, for which I need the air valve closed and adjust the screw to get 700rpm???

My 88 B230F (RHD!) is supposed to have a red/white wire coming out in a test point near the RIGHT tower to ground out and close the idle air valve- the only such wire is at the LEFT tower, and it's in a connector into the wiring form- breaking the connection does stop the motor-cannot restart without re-joining the connector. the air valve can be heard adjusting after connection broken.


There is a different 'free' connector on the outside rear of the Left tower, which does NOT have a red/white wire, just red, and a blue. A red/white wire is secured to the coil on the forward side, with the red wire-looks factory assembled? Can't see other spare wires/connectors with similar colours anywhere, and red/white not present in connector block at Left firewall. (?)

Anyone????

After I fixed my horn I found an ignition coil in my cellar I took from my old 89 245 5 speed before it was towed...It looks exactly like the one in my 93 245,cleaner and newer looking,so I put in the 93.Now ,in the morning it takes a bit to start the car but after that fine. Anyone know about coils for these year 245"s?

Hi Folks,

I'm the original owner of a 1992 Volvo 240 with about 300K kilometres. Vehicle has had excellent maintenance history with minimal repair issues.

Today for the first time we are now predictably feeling/hearing low-frequency excess vibration under limited conditions:

1. When engine is turned on
2. When engine is turned off
3. When vehicle accelerates at low speeds

When cruising at any speed or accelerating at higher speeds (above 60km/hr) the problem diminishes almost entirely.

Your knowledgeable input and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much,

Scott

In my Volvo 240 1989 the service light comes on everytime I start my car and it stays on for about the first 3 minutes of driving, then goes away.



I am pretty sure this is related, I can start my car fine on a cold engine(I just bought a new starter a couple of months ago). But if the engine is hot and I start it, the car has trouble starting(like it's not getting enough gas) and I get the Service light AND the Check engine light for the first 3 minutes.



Can anyone help me with diagnose this problem? I am really poor and would like to be able to fix this by myself if it is easy enough.

Has anyone had this happen? Bought the new odo gear from FCPGroton installed it and nothing. Once in a while the odo will creep a tenth or so but that's it. Also my abs light is on. The speedo works but not the odometer. I thought maybe the rear axle speed sensor was the culprit, but I'm reading that if it's shot, neither the odometer or the speedometer will function. Any help would be appreciated.

1984 244 GL.
clock only runs when the car is on.
i think its running...

i have recently replaced my blower motor, so i had all that stuff apart.
but it didnt run before that either.
i mean i checked all the connections and i thought it was good.

any thoughts on what could be doing this?
it cant be the clock right?
or could the wire that keeps it running when off be affected in the clock?

thanks as always, and happy to be here!
matty

I have original Volvo speakers in the front doors and the rear shelf on my 240. I intend to replace the original speakers and the headunit.

Appreciate if I could get some advice / recommendations on speaker brands and speaker size to fit the front doors and the rear shelf.

Thanks!

I own a 1992 Volvo 240 and most of my speakers are blown. I want to get new speakers (all 4 of them) but I don't want some old salvaged Volvo 240 speakers. I want to buy some nice new speakers. I'm new when it comes to anything involving changing something in a car, so can someone please tell me what speakers will fit and easily take place of those speakers where I wont have to do any un neccesary cutting or moddify in order to get them to fit (I don't want holes also). Thanx

-Paul

On my Volvo 240 DL 1989...If I drive awhile and get the engine hot and I stop the engine and try to start it again(like if I go to the gas station real quick to buy something) the engine will be real stubborn when starting. It actually turns and starts fine, but it acts like it is not getting any gas and will want to die out as soon as it starts. This is only when the engine is hot, not when it's cold. Any idea why this is?

Thanks,
-Darin

I stuck an ohmmeter on the connections leading to my horn with the key turned with the battery on....no movement on the meter so I guess I have no power goin to the horn.Its a 93 245 so it has an airbag,so when I discon