Volvo 240, 242, 244 & 245 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

HI GUYS,
WE HAVE A 1984 240 DL IN OUR SHOP. ORIGINALLY CAME IN WITH NO BRAKE PEDAL. WE FOUND REAR BRAKE CALIPERS LEAKING AND BRAKE MASTER NOT HOLDING PRESSURE. REPLACED BOTH CALIPERS AND MASTER. WE ALSO INSTALLED REAR SHOCKS. CUSTOMER WANTED FRONT STRUTS REPLACED. WE FOUND ALL HARDWARE BUSTED OR RUSTED. CUSTOMER ELECTED TO GO WITH COMPLETE USED STRUT ASSEMBLIES - FROM THE TOWER TO TO THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS. TWO METAL LINES IN FRONT HAD TO BE REPLACED. THE CAR WILL NOT BUILD UP BRAKE PRESSURE. MY GUYS WANT TO THROW A BOOSTER AT IT - THIS IS EXPENSIVE - I DO NOT HAVE CONFIDENCE IN THE BOOSTER THEORY. A BAD BOOSTER HAS ALWAYS FELT LIKE A HARD PEDAL TO ME. I HAVE RULED OUT THE MASTER CYLINDER - TRIED A DIFFERENT SUPPLIER. HAVE GONE THROUGH THREE MASTERS. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. THIS CUSTOMER HAS MANY MANY CARS IN MY CARE AND I NEED TO FIX THIS FOR HIM.
THANKS IN ADVANCE,
MARIE SUBLETT

I am convinced that I need a new ECU for my '80 245 DL...I see that new units are USD$300+ & I am about to drop a small fortune on fixing my house, so $ is tight. There is a local salvage yard w/several 240's & I doubt an ECU would even cost me $5. Problem is, none of them are '80 models--there's a '76 & the others are '82 or '83 & up...so what works?
(I see the other ECU thread, but neither it or the link within have any info on my car)
BTW, if anyone has a spare ECU that fits an '80 245, let me know.

Hi,

New here and wondering if anyone can help with a problem. I have a 93 Volvo 240 and today the vehicle seems to be stuck in park. I can only shift out of park by using the shift lock release button. Checked the manual and it said to check the fuses and they look okay... Any ideas?

Thx.

Hello all
My 1986 240 dl wagons right rear tail ight not working. I swswitched it with the left and the bulb showed good. I tried to track the wire down but volvo didnt want me to find it that easily. I need to get this problem fixed so my wife can have her car back and I can have my truck back

Hi.

I drive a 1984 Volvo 240GLM. The floor carpet on the driver's side of my car, almost always gets wet after a heavy downpour. At first, I thought the water was coming from the windshield, so I used some clear sealant to seal the areas surrounding the windshield. But water still gets in the driver's side floor carpet everytime it rains. I have no idea where the water is coming in from. Does anyone out there have any ideas?? If so, how can I put an end to this??

Thanks and best wishes!

Mark

I have a 1990 240 DL sedan that I purchased second hand. I noticed that when it rains, there is water in the Volvo mat over the carpet on the front passenger side. Yesterday, after a heavy rain, I removed the mat only to find the carpet under it was soaked to the point that there was a 1/4" of water on parts of the carpet.

My guess is that this water may have been accumulating from previous rains and/or snows, and I just did not realize it with the mat on top.

I have yet to investigate the source of the water (hopefully this weekend), but what might be the likely source of the water? And if there is a likely source, how best to fix it.

I need to get this fixed asap before I go rusting out the floorboard.

Thanks

hey guys i had my timing belt and tensioner and water pump replaced last september and a couple days ago i walk outside and see a puddle of coolant from under my car. i popped the hood and there was coolant on top of my water pump. it hasnt leaked ne more i just somehow lost a lot of coolant. it doesnt leak nemore tho which really puzzles me. water pump went bad? theres a slight wurrring sound when my car is at idle

When I hit the button to turn on the side mirror defroster, it does not light up. Instead the AC switch next to it lights. I also tested the AC switch and it did not turn on the compressor until I had been driving for about fifteen minutes. It was a very cold day (about 20F). Would this affect the AC response?

I just got a 1985 Volvo 240 wagon. For some reason the carpet on the passenger side is wet. It doesn't seem to dry up. I'm assuming there is a leak somewhere, probably in the passenger door, but i'm not really sure where to look. Any suggestions would be great.

Pete

Just been reading some old posts on cleaning breather pipes and and flame trap (anti-backfire valve).
I'm planning on having a go at mine tomorrow, but can't i.d. the flame trap.
The only thing I can see that resembles anything close, is about the size and shape of a slightly squashed satsuma, but black, not orange.
It's located about 10 inches to the left of the airbox and has a black rubber hose connected to one side going to air filter, on the other side, an identical black hose is connected and goes to breather on LH/S front of engine.

All of the pic's I've seen of flame traps, show them to contain what looks like rolled up foil.

Is somthing amiss, or am I looking in the wrong place?
Where should I be looking on an 89 240 DL 2.3 carb' motor?

Cheers,

Stu.

My '90 240 has a vibration that is driving me nuts. Vibrating as follows: nothing if very little at speeds below 55mph. More vibrations between 55–70mph. Vibrations less pronounced at speeds of 80+. MAJOR vibrations when I let off the gas between 75 and 55mph.

I've replaced the motor mounts (1 broken, 1 worn), the center support bearing (noisy) and carrier and both U-joints. The tires are worn, but rotating them makes no difference at all (I would have hoped to notice a little change) so I'm not ready to buy new. I haven't looked at tranny mount yet. It's the 5-speed and it gets hung-up sometimes in second and fifth. First has been a bear since the car was new. The tranny mount may be sagged-out? At a tire store a guy suggested I have a warped rear rotor, but I don't have any suggestion of that when I hit the brakes hard or soft. They also suggested a bad rear dif. (no way, the car only has 180K. I had a '77 with 400+k and still going strong that made noise but never vibrated) I lowered the car with springs from FCP last summer. It has been suggested as well that this may be causing driveshaft binding; however, no vibrations occured after I did the job. The vibrations started hapening about 10K after lowering. Also, someone suggested a worn trailing arm bushing. I've had shot rear bushings and never felt vibration from it, just clunks and 4-wheel throttle steer.

So...does anyone have a thought as to the most likely culprit? Warped rear rotor, trailing arm bushing or tranny mount?

Thanks in advance for the insight.

Niels

Had:
'79 Land Cruiser FJ55
'77 245
'88 Festiva ("party on wheels")
'86 VERY rusty FREE XJ6

Have:
'74 Alfa
'90 245
'98 V70R

Hello all!

I've finally joined the Volvo "cult" as some have described you lot - what a friendly, ready-to-help bunch of folks - I'm enjoying the community almost as much as the car!

My wife and I just bought a 1989 240 DL - with a whopping 87,000 km! Full records, all service history - a real jewel.

My only two gripes are the transmission--auto (yuk!) and the wheels - steel with hubcaps. The first I reckon I'll simply have to live with, but I'd like to explore the idea of putting M+S on those wheels, and buying a set of these for the rest of the year:

http://www.wheelcollision.com/wccpix/70148.jpg

I like the strong, slightly more commanding look they have versus the stock hubcaps. These are also 15 x 6, versus 14 x 5.5 I now have.

My questions are:

(1) will these fit the bolt circle pattern of my '89 240?
(2) recommended source for a nice set of these (without having to pay a huge amount) - I saw there are some folks from here in the Vancouver area - I'd be willing to go as far afield as Seattle if need be.

Again - a great site, and lots of great info - many thanks in advance for the many noobie questions I'll undoubtedly have ....

SP

1982 242 GLT 2.3L - no A/C
Whitby, Ontario, Canada

I am curently diagnosing a coolant leak in a car that wil be ice raced in about a week's time - not good if it's really cold out and you are pushing the car hard. I believe it's from the heater core as the windshield also fogged up - only on the passenger side? in a heated shop, also pooling on shop floor under fire wall. Can't see any hose leaks.

ANYWAY .... are there any diagrams/photos whatever that would help me visually in re/re-ing the heater core? Failing that could I have a verbal desription of how to go about it?

I don't need to have this look pretty when done, is there a quick and dirty way to accomplish this and still have it function. I don't care if the dash is trashde either.

Hello!
I recently purchased a 1990 240 DL for my daughter's first car. I'm trying to work all of the gremlins out of it before she begins driving it. One thing that I could use some help with is the heater controls. The heat is either all on or all off; there is no way to moderate it. Secondly, the shift indicator light is flashing at me non-stop. (It's a 5-speed.) It doesn't matter if I'm moving/stopped, what gear I'm in, what rpm's, nothing. It flashes from the time I start the engine to the time I shut it off. Short of pulling the bulb out, is there a fix for this?
Thanks for your help!

Im having trouble removing the steering column in order to replace the ignition switch and steering lock (key broke-off in ignition). I've gotten to the point of disconnecting the shaft from the column at the upper joint and have disconnected everything within the cabin. My problem is trying to get the column out of the car, I cant slide it back far enough to get the column under the crossmember. It seems to be hitting much of the sheetmetal and electrical under the dash. Has anyone here tried this before that can give me some pointers? I am using a Bentley Manual that my mechanic lent me.
Ben

I recently tried to replace a aftermarket headunit with another one and in the process somehow the yellow power wire from the car is now a constant hot. The radio will power up even when the key is not in the ignition and thus drains the battery. Not sure if anyone knows what is going on, but I am clueless right now. It did not happen with the old HU, but it is now happening with multiple ones I have tried. Thanks for your help.

I have a 93 240 with about 76K on it. Today after driving for a few hours, I parked the car. A few minutes later I had to move it and could not get the shifter out of park without a great deal of difficulty; I thought I was going to break it. Once out of park it shifted normally, and the transmission shifts normally with minimal noise while driving. I checked the ATF and it may be a bit low; it was difficult to read the dipstick. Any ideas?[FONT=Courier]

Hiya all,

I've been browsing the volvo forums for a few months now and thought I may as well join in.

I'm a big volvo fan and have owned five over the last few years, great motors.

I've a little question to ask.

Does anyone out there know if the clutch master cylinder on an 89 manual is a weakness. I'm about to replace mine for the second time in one year.

There's a metal band riveted to the reservoir that holds the resser tight onto the master cylinder, and it's this band that has split. Doesn't seem to be corroded.

The first time I replaced it with a used part that came off a slightly older 240 than mine, which leads me to think it's just coincidence that exactly the same has happened again.

Perhaps?

Stu.

Greetings All,
I think my topic makes my question pretty clear: Is it possible to get an automatic transmission to replace my manual one? I've been injured from a workplace injury, and I can't use my right hand. I can drive an automatic just fine, but the thought of replacing my beloved Volvo with something else is a thought I'd rather not contemplate.
Thanks in advance for helping me,
Yoda

Hello,

I'm Mark from Malaysia. I drive a 1984 Volvo 240GL (Automatic). I recently got rid of the original 1984 engine and carb and changed my engine to a fuel injected B230E engine from a 1992 240SE.

At the moment, the RPM when idling is about 900. But when I shift gears from Park or Neutral to Drive or Reverse, the RPM drops to about 500 and then goes back up to about 750. When the RPM hits 500, there is a 'ssss' sound (like air being released). But once the RPM goes up again, the sound stops. There were times when I shifted to Drive and the RPM went below 500 and the engine just died. I tried getting the car tuned by adjusting the CO level. But the mechanic has problems getting the correct mixture.

The sound seems to come fom the engine area, but can only be heard clearly from inside the car, towards front passanger side.

This air sound can also be heard when the engine is turned off. The moment I turn the key to off the engine, the sound comes for about 1 second and then just stops.

At first, I though i was a vacuum leak, and I got all the vacuum hoses as well as the injector O-rings checked. But this was not the problem. My mechanic check where the air sound was coming from, many times, but just cannot locate it.

Has anyone had this problem before? I hope someone can help me get rid of this problem.

Thanks and regards.

Mark

This kinda a basic question, what kind of radiator fluid do I use in my '91 240?

The manuel just says "volvo" or something like that but I'm sure there is a Pep Boys alternative.

While out for arun in my 240 a few days ago the clutch slipped on a slight incline it then slipped abit more when changing up or down, did not have time to look for any trouble did not drive car for a few days.
This morning took car up every local hill tried to make clutch slip it behaved pe
rfectly any -body got an idea what might be wrong or shall I let sleeping dogs lie

I have a 87 Volvo 240 and I am trying to tell what the difference in the body style of the '87 and the '92 models? I can't tell if it is me or not, but is the '92 body style shorter and taller than the '87? Or are they the same size?

whats wrong? all my electrics are on the fritz!!! dash lights, seat heater, turn signals are intermittent or dont work! Temp gauge goes up down and then back up into the red! the car's not even over heating (dont thnk) HELP

I am looking to replace the shocks and struts on 91 240 wagon and just wanted to get a little input from you guys on brands to go with and how hard the job would be.

I have heard that Bilstein was the best but I have a friend that works at AutoZone that can get Gabriels for me at a discount.

Any input on installation would be appreciated, I have done a few sets of shocks and struts before and have coil spring compressors but never worked on Volvo suspension.

I have just bought this car and I really love it. It's like the factory put alot of pride in building the 240's and I only bought this car after researching it on this forum. I originally bought this car for my nephew but I think I may keep it for myself.

1989 240 GL light came on without any mechanical problems or noises. Pressure switch is good so I just changed the oil and filter and added heavier weight of 10W40 and now the light is off. Any guesses I have a problem lurking? Thanks, George

Hello again,

Besides my cold start issue with my '87 240 DL, I also have this constant problem with the temp sensor guage. In Dec. 2003 a shop replaced the coolant temp sensor. Another shop in Jan. 2004 replaced the temp sensor, which fixed the problem until a few hours later it stopped working again. In Sept. 2005 a third shop replaced the coolant temp switch, which didn't help but the mechanic did notice a temporary slight increase in the temp from complete cold to more warm. In Nov. 2005 I took the vehicle in for a fluid change and the shop mentioned it ran rough, and that the temp sensor was probably an issue with something called an electrical relay switch (I don't exactly remember or know anything about that).

Please advise if you have any idea how to fix this problem. Any positive comments appreciated.

Regards, numek

Hi to all forum members / casual surfers

Mong Man from the S40 Forum is testing the water to see if any of the U.K. members / fellow volvo nuts (not just forum members) are up for a meet in March.

Check the U.K. Regional / Europe Forum for details.

Stu.

JUST WONDERING IF ANYONE HAS PURCHASED INTAKE BELLOWS FOR THEIR VOLVO AND IF SO WHERE AND AT WHAT PRICE.

THANKS

I am trying to replace the radio in my girlsfriends volvo when I took out the old radio there was no connectors the wires came from the back of the stereo right into the ignition wiring harnes. I cut the wires and now i am trying to math them up. I believe that there are only 2 speakers I dont think there is an amp. I can get the 2 speakers workin but I am only attaching one wire positive. it works for a little while then cuts out if i remove the wites then put the back itll work again, So I guess im looking for the negitives. Also when the car is on I am getting a negitive signal on the wires that go to the speakers. Does anyone have a wiring diagram?


I have white with a blue stripe
and blue with white as the speakers
there is a solid blue
solid gray
solid brown
and solid green

Thanks

Andy

Been reading a little about the electrical problems in a 240 since my last post. I just discovered the green circuit boards in my Volvo and wanted to know how often they should be replaced? Is corrosion an issue with them? I'm having intermittent problems with my tail lights shorting out.... And am hopeful that it is NOT a wiring harness issue....


Thoughts? Experiences? Advice?

The circuit boards are only $25 at Groton... However, don't want to throw good money if it is not a potential problem...

My car is a '91 240 wagon and it won't start. it will turn over but won't hit. We checked the fuel pump relay and replaced it, but it still won't start. When the key is turned, the fuel pump won't activated, as it will only activate when the fourth and sixth fuse terminals are jumped, as indicated by the Hayn'e Manual. However, even then, it still won't actually hit and start.

some background information: this problem occurred shortly after I rolled my car. The car was fine and ran right afterward, and for about 5 days after, but had been stalling and sort of shaking when run at a higher speed in those 5 days.

Thank you for whatever help you are able to offer!

Hello to this forum and seeking information anyone may have about the gas filler pipe on the 240 sedan (1986), when used at California gas stations. Something backs up inside and blocks the flow of gas, causing either gas to kick back up the pipe and/or turning off the pump automatically. The result is the tank can be filled only with a manually controlled trickle. Anybody ever experience this -- or have an idea about solving the question? The top end of the filler pipe may be a bit out-of-round by this time (20 years down the road).

I have a 1992 240 with only 93,000 original miles. Recently, the "check bulb" light was coming on when I applied the brake. Logically, I thought a bulb was out, but after checking everything was fine. Regardless, I replaced all the bulbs in the tail lights. Problem persisted and then started to smell a smoldering inside the car with lights on. Took the car to a Volvo specialist and then worked on it for a day or two claiming to have fixed a short. To no avail.... Now, one of my entire tail lights is "out"... (brake, signal, etc...)

General questions are..........

What is the 240 Volvo reputation for electrical problems?
Are there known electrical problems with the 240?
It seems that hourly troubleshooting at a dealer could cost lots of $$$. Are there troubleshooting steps I can take to narrow down the problems?
What is the "worst case" scenario? New wiring harness + labor?
Any NYC tri-state Volvo owners out there that want to recommend a service location?

david
917.861.0701

I have a hole in my exhaust pipe. I don't know whether or not its the muffler. Does it make a difference? The hole is at the connection of the wider flatter pipe....is that the muffler? If I replace the muffler does that include all the exhaust tailpipes? Is it expensive?
Thanks,
V

Please tell me your experience with fuel efficiency in a 240 with A/C turned on versus turned off. Is this an important issue for fuel costs?

Hello guys I am new member to the forum and the Volvo family.

I just recently purchased a 1991 240 wagon and the check engine light just came on yesterday. I have been having problems with hesitation when I first take off from stop but smooths out with more rpms. The light just came on today and I checked my Bentley manual and got the fault codes for the fuel system.(the ignition system checks ok)
I picked up the codes for 2-2-1,2-3-1,and 2-3-2 which are all codes for fuel system compensating for (extremely) rich or lean mixtures.

Now that I have the codes what should I start with first.

Just letting you know that I just changed plugs to bosch plus 4 and just put fuel injection cleaner in.

with my experiences with Fords and such I would usually check or replace O2 sensor but new to Volvo maybe something else would be a normal problem.

any help would be greatly appreciated.