Hello, we have answers for your Volvo-related questions!. Why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums. Together we can make our Volvo community a better place.
The common question. I'm buying a used Volvo model xxxx. What should I look for?
The short answer is a:
Full Service History (FSH)
Volvo's need servicing just like anyother car. If you are buying a used Volvo and the seller says: "it's a wonderful car. It just goes and goes. I've not had to spend a cent on it in the last two to three years!" Beware!
The car may be coming up for some very expensive repairs which the seller does not want to pay for or does not have the money to pay for the repairs.
Suppose the car you are buying is less than $4,000.00 and several years old. You might be stretching things if the car has had several different owners by demanding all the Receipts and paper work which may have been lost over the years. Let's face it, if the radiator was replaced 280,000k's ago-it might need replacing again. And all the original paper work and receipts now don't lessen the burden of replacing it again. That is simply an example only.
Having a pre-purchase examination by your local Automobile Association or similar organisation has it's advantages. They are inspecting cars all the time and have the equipment to do the job properly, e.g. lifts, inspection pits etc.
Once the inspection is finished-take the report to your local Volvo agent and have the agent cost up the report for repairs/replacements/updates etc. At the same time, ask the Volvo agent to look for common problems which the Agent would know about and the inspection service may have missed in their report.
HOW MUCH TO PAY?
Take the sellers asking price
minus the Volvo agent's quote
minus another $1,000.00 buffer for things the inspection missed (you could increase that $1,000.00 to $2,000.00 if none or few of the Volvo periodic services have been done)
Whatever is left over-that is the price you offer the seller.
WHAT EXACTLY AM I PAYING FOR WHEN I BUY A USED CAR?
You are paying the seller the perceived value of the life left in the car.
(If you are buying a classic car-none of the above rules apply.) Pricing/costing enthusiasts/collectors values is beyond this article.
These remarks apply regardless of whether or not the particular Volvo you are thinking about buying is:
Turbo or non-Turbo Petrol or Diesel Manual (Stick-Shift) or Auto (Gearless) Front Wheel Drive Rear Wheel Drive All Wheel Drive Sedan, Coupe, Station Wagon, Convertible, SUV.
"I'm thinking about buying a 1993 Volvo 850 Turbo, what should I look for?
You cannot be expected to know how to diagnose normal wear and tear of the transmission, turbo and suspension etc etc. You cannot be expected to recognise a faultless and fully serviceable car either.
What should I look for? The Volvo agent. Why? Normally, the agent has a reputation too good to loose. It is rare that they would miss something and not remedy the situation if you were to suffer lose because of their negligence. (I realise that there are exceptions to all these remarks. Please don't fill the forum with one off examples of disasters.) Mistakes do happen. Ask any doctor if you don't believe me!! I doubt that any agent would deliberately mislead you.
Check the dash board for bits of tape overing warning lights. Taping over warning lights with expensive repairs required is becoming common.
Do not post here for questions and technical matters. There are other sections in this forum for that. When you do, use the "Topic Title" wisely. eg. Please Help!!! (BAD); Displayed Bulb Position Failure (GOOD - title is more descriptive not general). Also search before posting. Chances are that you are not the first to ask. ---------------------------------------
--------------------------------------- Post here only for the introduction of yourself and your car. You may want to mention - model, year, color, price you paid. - where you are, your commute, purpose of the car. - what made you decide Volvo over another make. - what made you select that particular model. - what you use to drive or any other cars you own. - any project (if any) you might have for further improvements, etc.
Hey - My name is Leslie and it was just 4 (looong) short days ago that I bought (yes, it was on the cheap) my first Volvo, a 1993 940. I was pretty psyched about this whole deal because I've always wanted a Volvo, though my excitement grew less and less as the days, weeks then months passed that I waited for the muffler and the horn to get fixed (otherwise there's nothing wrong with the car). So I eventually bought the car sight unseen because I ended up in a bind when my Jeep developed major problems... Not being one to make waves, I will be pretty much end up giving away my Jeep(boo hoo) and I'm learning all about '93 Volvos! Well, maybe I should stick to St Bernards. I haven't gotten a lemon yet and I could ride them in a pinch! Oh, and I am quite literate, as well
Hello! I am Rick from upstate New York. I just bought my second Volvo, a 1995 850 wagon. I got it on the cheap and am doing some work to it as I go along. It's got about 163,000 miles on it, but it runs and drives just fine. I actually dig it even though I do kind of miss my 1991 240. Kind of. If it had a bit more power in it it would have been much harder to part with.
I just received delivery of my 1968 p1800s, thankfully -after- Hurricane Matthew made its way through my area. It's going to be quite a project to get it in as beautiful a shape as I know it can be, but one that I'm looking forward to undertaking...hopefully with all of your help! I'm sure you'll be seeing plenty more of me in the months ahead, but for now, I just wanted to say, "hello," and browse around the fourms to see what knowledge I can glean.
First stop: getting the brakes working! Wish me luck!
Hello, I have a no start problem, 1990 740 b234, bosch not regina, 2.4, was idling then just died like the car was tuned off, did it a couple times then just wouldn't start, on test 3 of port 2 on the self diagnostic box, the fuel injectors don't report(click), tested and no 12 v. at fuel injector connector, don't know whats causing it, it does start with a shot of starting fluid, do get code 232 some kind of lambda adjustment I guess? and 221 heated O2 sensor, some posts I read said those codes wouldn't keep it from starting? not sure and not sure what to check next, not very knowledgeable on volvos but am determined, open to any suggestions or ideas, I'm stumped as usual, thanks.
My name is Philip, I'm from Holland and on march 31st 2014 I have bought myself a Volvo V70 from 1999 with the 2.5 liter 10 valve engine (automatic) with 345.000 kilometers on it for just 900 euro's. I needed a car quick, it had to run on LPG/GPL and I prefered a Volvo since I had some experience doing maintenance on my girlfriends Volvo S40. For that kind of money, you will buy yourself some problems. But this is what it looked like when I bought it:
And here is a quick history on what has been done so far: 12 April 2014 - 349.000 KM - Changed the airfilter, sparkplugs and upper engine mount
16 April 2014 - 350.000 KM - Installed a HU-1205 radio, replaced the trunk locking mechanism, replaced some broken light fixtures and missing interiour parts and installed some new windscreen wipers (Bosch, ofcourse)
27 april 2014 - 361.000 KM - Found and applied an other way of reading the engine RPM for the LPG installation, because at irregular moments the engine would cut out on LPG
07 may 2014 - 361.000 KM - Replaced the rotor, distributer cap and sparkplug cables
11 june 2014 - 365.000 KM - Replace airco evaporator and installed a VDO Dayton PC5200 navigation system
1 July 2014 - 367.000 KM - Replaced the left headlight, front braking lines and the parkingbrakeshoes (is that a word?)
18 July 2014 - 369.000 KM - Replaced the interiour air filter
We recently purchased an 88 Volvo, it needs a little more work than I thought it needed. When we first got it , it started & ran ok, now it won't start. Wondering if anyone can help me troubleshoot what may be the problem. When attempting to start, it does not turn over. It was responding to jumper cables, but not anymore. thank you!
Good Morning Everyone, Just a quick introduction, I purchased a 2006 Volvo S80 for my Daughter, it will be a great first car and it was a deal with only one owner. I always join the forums, because I usually perform my own work on all my vehicles. Single Mom, that loves cars. Look forward to all information I can find, this would be my fourth Volvo over all my years. Thank You in advance for all information! Amy
I'm the happy owner of a 2006 Vovlo S60 2.0T with automatic transmission. I bought the car from the first owner with about a 160 000 km on the clock and with a full Vovlo dealer service history. I have maintained this service history with Volvo up to the current mileage of 207 000 km. The car has never given me any problems and is a pleasure to drive.
Hello, just introducing myself. I have owned the XC70 for 3 years now and love the car. I wanted a sedan and just recently bought the 2004 s60. So far I love the car!!! Just replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler this past weekend with a coolant flush. I have done some reading on flushing the transmission and their seems to be a debate on how to flush a vehicle with higher mileage. The s60 that I just bought has 218,000 miles on it and the transmission fluid has never been changed. My question is should I do the IPD kit and flush all 12 quarts out of the system or just drain 3.5 quarts wait a month or so and drain another 3.5 quarts and continue this process until all the fluid has been changed? Which is safer for my transmission? One more thing, if I do the IPD kit and flush all 12 quarts out is it a must to go to the dealer to have them reset my ECM? The dealer is really far from home so I was hoping I wouldn't. Thanks for all the help and I will try to help others the best I can on here.
Hi Volvo enthusiasts! I've got a 1992 wagon I love named, "Great White"..... She's been sitting a while as I had some health issues, now she's back to needing road repairs. I'll be asking a lot of questions...hopefully to save some money on repairs and getting her back where she belongs. I'm the second owner.......no accidents......169,000 miles. LOTS of life left in her!
Group: Members Posts: 1 Joined: Today, 07:49 PM Member No.: 185,569 Status: Online Location: USA Drives: 2008 Volvo C70
My alternator and ac belts broke on my 2008 C70 while moving across the US. Found a Volvo shop and they are telling me I need a compressor too. Do I need a a/c compressor for the vehicle to drive, or are they trying to rip me off?
Hi I am a new member I own a 2004 Volvo xc70 from when it was new and recently purchased another one for parts. So if I can help anyone with issues they might be having or if someone can help me that would be great! The 2004 xc70 that I just bought has a power problem, it doesn't have any. The battery is full and connected as it should be but the car is dead no lights, or beeps, bobs, dash nothing when you turn the key. Thankfully it does release the parking gear and it can roll. I have had issues with clusters in the instrument panel and in the steering column in my first xc70. If you're in Oshawa I highly recommend Vanderhyden's garage if you need something fixed. That's where I would take it but I am now in Barrie full-time. Whitby transmission was able to save me a transmission by successfully removing a front drive shaft that was so difficult to remove they thought it would ruin the transmission, but were successful in the end. If anyone has any insights in the power problem I would truly appreciate it. The car is in better shape (body and interior) than my first and if it's a relatively simple fix I'd rather drive it than start taking the doors and interior pieces out of it. It has 335K it my first princess has over 400K Looking forward to hearing from you. mrs pender
I have a 1995 Volvo 940. The door coverings have pulled away by the windows. Aesthetically it needs a little attention. Everyone tells me this is the best engine that Volvo ever made. Mechanics tell me the car is in great shape for its age.
I'd just thought I'd say 'hey'. I'm new to the forums here, and I'm new to Volvo's as a whole, I just bought myself (from the auctions) a 2002 V70 XC. It's done 104,400 kms (about 65000 miles), has had what looks to be one owner who has serviced it on time at the dealer since new!
The downside is said owner has had an accident in it (not sure what happened), and the car has a broken headlight, bumper bar and a few other things but there is no structural damage and the only unroadworthy thing on it is a set of front brake pads. So far so good then!
I upgraded to the V70 after taking a ride in a mates V70 (he has the original model) and I really liked it, and when I saw my XC at the auctions I was like why not. I decided to upgrade because my current car, a 1989 Ford Telstar, kept overheating and was just not reliable, and my other second car (yes, I have two cars!), a 1995 Eunos 500 is just too small and it too is 'getting on a bit'
So, here is my toy:
It's great isn't it?
Hopefully this car proves to be more reliable than the Telstar has been!
So anyway, a bit about me, my name is Jeremy (call me Jay if you wish!), I live in Melbourne and I'm 20 years old, and have owned 8 cars since I was 16, hopefully it's 8th time lucky with the Volvo!
Thanks everyone! Keen to get involved in the community and learn about these awesome cars!
I want to buy either a S60 or an S80. I used to have a 97 Volvo 850GLT 5 cylinder with low pressure turbo. The engine seemed bulletproof. But now I've noticed on the S80, the 6 cylinder 3.2 is the preferred engine. So is the 6 cylinder no turbo 3.2 better than the 5 cylinder low pressure turbo? Next, I remember on my Volvo, it was an 850GLT. They also made a T5 version of it which I'm pretty sure gave them a much larger turbo. But now things are getting confusing. I've heard that Volvo makes some of their engines and some of them they don't even make. In looking for S60 and S80 cars on the internet I've found 2.4 engine, a 2.5T engine, a 3.2 engine, even a 3.0L 6 cylinder turbo. I also think I saw one that had a twin turbo. SO, out of all of those engines, which ones are good and reliable?
Next, there is a 2.5T engine and a 2.5 T T5 engine. So what does T5 mean? What does T5 Platinum mean? What does T5 premier plus mean? And then, there is a T6 so what does a T6 mean? What does a T6 elite mean? What's a T6 executive mean? And what does a T6 Premier mean?
I don't know yet if I'm going with the S60 or S80 yet. They look about the same inside and out. If the 2.5T engine is available in both, I suppose I'd try to just get the S60. But does the S80 offer a better ride and is that 3.2 engine a smoother engine? The 2.5T engine has always been a chatty engine. And again what's the difference between the 2.5T and the 2.5T T5? Next, what is a S60 R? Does it have a bigger turbo or dual turbos? And also, does Volvo make any cars with manual transmissions in them anymore? All I can find are automatics.
I went to the local junk yard today to try to get side skirts for my Eclipse Turbo but they didn't have them. But I did find a lot of S60 and S80 Volvos in the junk yard that were NOT wrecked and that kind of scares me.
I'd also like to know what year did the S60 change it's body and interior. Looks like 2012? And what year did the S80 change theirs? Some say 2007 and I agree the inside of the S80 has been redone in 2007 but the outside still looks the same.
I bought a brand new Hyundai Elantra in 2012 and it only has 48,000 miles. It has a bad engine in it but it hasn't been recalled yet. And then last week it had a random electrical surge and since then nothing has been working right. It's at the dealer to fix and once it's completely fixed I'm selling it. I'm looking to buy in the $13,000 range for an S60 or S80. I'd like the miles to be 80,000 or under.
Thanks in advance guys for helping me with all my questions.
I did post in the Australia forum section but thought I should do a more formal introduction. Six months ago I purchased a new S60 Polestar (MY15). I looked around for an Australian Volvo forum and to my surprise - nothing. Previously I belonged to a Mazda forum which was brilliant for local information. Anyway, more about the car - WOW - that about sums it up. I am into alternative sports sedans and had a Mazda 6MPS (called a SPEED internationally). Not well known, not well sold and no new models after ~2006. This was a fantastic car that I lightly modded to get the best from a very capable package --> ~300kw and ~450nm = <<5 sec to 100kmh. It went like a rocket and was more like driving a go-cart more than a sedan. Anyway, I have been looking for a replacement / upgrade and it wasn't until the S60 Polestar was first released in Australia ~3 years ago that I sat up and took notice. A turbo charged sedan with AWD just like the Mazda but much more of a European level fit out. When the 3rd model was released and Volvo went international with the car I decided to have a closer look, and like what I saw. A few test drives of the local dealers demo model and I was soon its owner! It fits me like a glove - Rebel blue, hot looks, goes hard and no-body knows what it really is. I dont know how many have been sold in Australia but I have only seen one other in Sydney in 6 months. Unfortunately the Harman/Kardon 600W stereo has had problems and I'm not happy with the de-tune that was required to stop the door panel vibrating but apart from that it is a fantastic car. I am an older owner @ 53yo and am planning on having this car for the next +10 years so it will suit me perfectly into my retirement. Now I am thinking to myself that the engine in this car is capable of way more power without pushing it too far, how best to make this happen...... [attachment=15482:IMG_0845_1_.JPG]
this is no doubt old news to u all but on my 2000 s80 when locking the doors with remote the front passenger lock pops up as in open? the rear passenger side stays up the whole time? any ideas would be appreciated,thanks in advance
Hello everyone I live in France and I am retired, previously I worked as a technician in the building, and aviation maintenance technician, and mentoring of professional insertion for the unemployed. I just bought a station wagon volvo 940 gl diesel 1991. the body is in good condition for its age, and mechanics has been restored by its previous owner is diesel mechanic business. has some small problems but nothing insurmountable in my opinion: - Cold start, the clutch does not work completely, and I have trouble changing gears, the problem disappears as soon as the engine is up to temperature. - The AC did not work, but that is not important, because I do not intend to use. - The heater fan is not running, (may be related to the air conditioning?) -a few lights on the dashboard are permanently on, others do not light (especially that of the overdrive). Overall I am very satisfied with my purchase: it is a comfortable, enjoyable car to drive, and I'm pleasantly surprised by its low consumption: 7.6L for the first full. I intend to use it to tow a boat trailer 1T200, which does not have to be a problem. I'll settle all imperfections for a vehicle at the top, I hope to find useful tips on the forum, and if I do not find, I will certainly ask for help.
my English is not too good, I prefer to use an automatic translator
Over the weekend I purchased a 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon for $200. Drove it home seemed to run and shift just fine. I was told the transmission lines are leaking. That was an understatement BLEEDING would be a better description. I ride a motorcycle full time so this wagon is really for my dog, camping and canoe hauling. Hoping I don't have to put to much $$$ into to it to make a safe reliable car. Have a great day! Mark
I recently aquired a 1997 Volvo 850. It was supposedly just a blown head gasket. Pulled the head and found two broken pistons. It's a clean car and I like it. Just trying to decide if I want to sink a lot of money in it.
I'm just catching up on some missing maintenance on it right now, although overall its pretty good.
new DBA T2 rotors and Textar pads + FEBI Dot4 + fluid. still not that happy with the pedal feell, i'll try again with the bleeding. new Castrol 75w90 Syntrax GL5 in the angle gear and rear diff new OEM spark plugs new K&N air filter new Nexen N'fere SU1 tyres 215/45/17 I've done a couple of really short oil changes to clean it up then will settle on Mobil 1 0w40.
to do: new Mobil 3309 in the transmission volvo aluminium skid plate fix passenger side CV leak at the gearbox
Hi New to the Forum-I have a 1998 Volvo S90 question-Check Engine Light came on-I checked, and it is a P0017 ECT Sensor, but the Car Would Start didn't get a chance to change it-Then the car only Clicks,and No Start so I checked the Battery, and it was Dead-Had the Battery Charged, and still No Start only a Small amount of Clicks are heard, but the Lights come on-Could it still be the ECT Sensor or now the Starter or Alternator ?-Please give any suggestion Thanks.
I'm new in this Forum, I've learned new things on here about my car and have completed a few procedures with the help of everyone's postings.
I drained and filled my transmission on my 2005 Volvo S40 t5 since apparently it wasn't changed previously. I bought the car with 94,000 miles and just hit 110,000. I've read that these cars have transmission failures and shift flares. My car started hard shifting and was lagging between gears 3-4 and then 1-3. When driving 80mph the gear would pop out and I felt like I was in Nutural then it would pop back into gear. 2 days ago the car stalled on me (with the old fluid still in) I was turning right going less than 10 miles an hour, and the day before that Check Engine light came on. I changed my fluid by Draining and Filling since I wasn't comfortable with the flush. It drained 6 qt's. Was that too much to drain? I refilled it with the same amount. Took it for a drive and all of the gears would lag and it took a second or so in between shifting. 20 miles later still does the same. I keep checking the tranny fluid and it shows me that it's at the Hot level when the car is cold, hot or running. The Volvo manual calls for 8.2 quarts, and I know that the rest is in the converter.
I have no clue what to do next. Drain some of the fluid again? And refill? A replacement of the transmission wouldn't be worth it for me at this time. Apparently it ranges from $2,000 to 5,000. I've put in so much money into this car from new Engine Harness to new Hub assembly's. Last thing I need is my tranny to go out. I've included a picture of the old fluid while I was draining it.
If anyone is able to help me with the transmission problem would be greatly appreciated.
Can anyone assist with describing how to remove the high mount lamp on top of the rear tailgate of an XC60? OEM Part 31420367. It appears to be one piece accessed on the exterior of car. Is a special trim tool needed? There is very little info on the internet about this 3rd brake light.
Hi everyone. I own a 1989 Volvo740 gl that I am having trouble with. The car will run for a few minutes until it hits 140 degrees or so then it dies and I have to unplug the mass air flow sensor to put it in a rich mix limp home mode. It had a bad mass airflow sensor that I have since replaced with a new one. It has a new coolant temp sensor for the ecu still no improvement. I replaced the throttle position sensor no improvement. I tested to see if the idle air control motor was operating correctly, it is. does anyone have an ecu pinout for this vehicle or any idea what may be my issue?
Hi, I'm a new owner of a 1989 Volvo 740 GL Wagon. And I would like some advice on exhaust brand's and where to get them. This will be my first Volvo. And the first Volvo that I will be modding.There is a first for everything.