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The purpose of this post is to assist others who may have some variations from the different tutorials on the web for changing the XC90 2.5T timing belt. I ran into a few surprises and wanted to share those with others who might be facing the same thing. This isn't a whole tutorial, there are enough of those out there. It's just supplemental info for people who might run into similar snags.
Vehicle: 2005 XC90 2.5T
Engine Number This made a difference for me. There are timing belt kits for engine numbers up to 3188688 and kits for 3188689 and beyond. The difference is with the tensioner. My engine number was on the sticker on the lower timing belt cover. If that's missing it's on the back of the engine block and a pain to locate from what I understand.
Below are the part numbers for the different timing belt kits.
Serpentine Belt All the tutorials I found stated the tensioner could be moved with a 14mm wrench. Well not if your tensioner has a large T60 torx inlet like mine and this one.
I ended up taking a fellow Volvo owners advice and pieced together the tool I needed because there doesn't seem to be one out there. I bought a 1/2" drive T60 bit like this one.
However just putting this onto a 1/2" breaker won't work due to the limited clearance. So if you hammer the torx bit out of the socket you are left with a T60 torx bit that will fit into a 12mm 3/8" drive socket which barely fits in the small space. You'll have to tape the torx bit into the socket so you don't lose it. Once you get the socket into the tensioner I slid a 19mm wrench onto the ratchet for more leverage. Just push towards the front of the car and the belt should come off pretty easily.
Oscillation Damper / Harmonic Balancer / Crankshaft Pulley I tried to get this sucker off but finally gave up. I left it on as others have and it was fine. I did however have to remove the lower plastic cover (number 1 in the below image).
It's held on by two 10mm bolts. You can't really see what you're doing but you can feel around and get a 10mm wrench in there pretty easily. Once removed it allowed me to fish the new belt around the damper and get it seated on the crankshaft gear. Make sure the belt is actually on the gear. There are a few spots it can get snagged behind the damper. You can't see so it's all by touch but it's not too bad. I'm not sure if it's easier than removing the damper but I didn't have an impact wrench so it was my only option.
Tensioner and Idler I removed the old ones completely before taking the old belt off. It helped to have less for it to snag on. I also waited until I had the new belt on the crankshaft gear before putting the new ones on. This worked great and working around the new belt is easy, you just push it out of the way to install the new tensioner and idler.
Those Fun Timing Marks I had this all screwed up during the process. Adding to the fun I moved the crankshaft trying to remove the damper so I had to make sure everything was right. The lower timing mark is the hardest one to see. This image does a pretty good job of showing it to you. I lined up the mark on the engine block, through the valley of the gear and to the mark closest to you. This lined up to a mark I had previously put on the damper so I was convinced it was correct.
The upper cams move pretty easily so I was constantly having to reset those to make sure everything was correct. While putting the new belt on it took a few times to get the upper cams in the right spot. One tooth doesn't sound like much but it will be very noticeable on where the timing marks are. Just double and triple check everything is in the right spot. Once you get it right set the belt tension and tighten the center bolt on the tensioner.
Rotate the engine twice clockwise to see if the timing is okay. After the second time make sure the timing marks are all in the right spot.
Lower Timing Belt Cover This stupid thing is a pain. It just takes messing with it until it falls into place. It needs to sit behind the damper which means shoving the cover down there and your hand to get it to slip behind the damper. After about 10 minutes mine finally dropped into place.
Useful Resources Some of these are XC90 specific and some are other models but they all have useful information to do this job. This certainly isn't a complete list but these helped me.
Final Thoughts Take your time and you should be fine. Just remember before you button everything back up and turn that key triple check everything. It's not a hard job but if done wrong it can be very unforgiving and EXPENSIVE to fix. Good luck!
The check engine light was on my 2006 Volvo XC90 V8 engine and the code indicated it was fuel pressure related. I started by replacing the fuel filter located in front of the passenger side rear tire under the car. No good. The second step was the fuel pressure sensor. I found a few post online indicating it could be reached under the intake manifold but could see no way to remove it with human size hands. Below are the removal procedures I wrote down as I unearthed it from it’s hard to reach location. It’s a bit of a handful of a job which I had to do twice due to a kink in the fuel pressure sensor washer and moderate skills. See note 8. Second time is always easier and took about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Mine had metal gaskets on the intake which I deemed good to reuse. Go slow and take you time and it is manageable. 1. Remove the front plastic engine cover by pulling up. 2. Remove the cross brace at the back of the engine you will need 15MM and 18MM sockets and an 18 MM wrench. 3. Remove the back of engine plastic cover. 4. Passenger side of engine- A. remove power steering hose clamp where it heads under intake manifold. Flat blade shorty. B. Remove plastic cover over the accessory belt 2 torques drive bolts. C. Located under where the hose was you will need to remove (1) 10MM bolt holding down intake manifold. D. disconnect 2 vacuum lines this area. E. Disconnect sensor on back of manifold this area. 5. Remove intake manifold bolts with 6MM hex head. 9 in front and 11 in back. Could find no torque spec to replace and used 20 lbs as a guesstimate. 6. At the throttle body area. A. Disconnect air intake from throttle body. B. Disconnect three small diameter hoses at front of throttle body. A little coolant will leak out but not much. C. There is a couple of hoses at the back of the throttle body and into the manifold. I found it easier to remove (2) 10MM bolts from the doohickey with the larger diameter hose where it entered the block. The other small hose a pinch hose clamp. 7. You can now lift up the intake manifold. There will still be one hose connected going way under the manifold but there was plenty of slack to leave it connected. 8. The sensor is located under the throttle body area, has (1) 10 MM bolt and a wire connection. It fit very snuggle in the fuel rail and has difficult to remove. The fuel system is under pressure and gas you should let the pressure off back at the fuel filter before removal of the sensor. Fit the new one in carefully to make sure it does not kink the rubber washer.
I've read most of the threads on this subject and most have different ideas on the cause|solution. Here are the basic questions which are the most open to interpretation.
1 - is the airbag systems operational? 2 - if systems are okay. Then, why does the light reappear after most are able to reset via scanner or hard reset (battery pull)? 3 - can you visually inspect the SRS sensors in the engine bay for corrosion or is it possibly a bad "module"?
Thanks, inspection is due and they will not pass it as long as there is an "****" light visible, minus the "service reminder".
I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common?
Hello all, new to the forum and in need of help. I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detent. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn. Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years. I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!? Does this sound right to anyone? I am very mechanical but this thing is a whole different ballgame than my F150. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
Hi, I was wondering anyone knows if halogen headlight units can be direct plug and play replaced by OEM bixenon headlight units? I don't have to use HID bulbs but if all the socket and plugs are the same (both H7 on my halogen)?
Planning to install a roof rack on my XC90 and I saw the Surco safari rack at 4wheelonline. I like its aggressive design compared to crossbars and the price is within my budget. Does anyone have this kind of rack? Just curious about its quality and construction. Or do you have other recommendations similar to Surco? Thanks guys.
I've got a low speed vibration upon accelerating, and from consensus, I'm pretty sure it the result of a bad passenger side front axle. My question, is finding a replacement axle. Plenty of choices for the V8, but I'm having a devil of a time finding something for the 3.2 6 cylinder.
Does anyone have any information on a good source for 3.2L axles?
Hi All Just a newbie, searched around and couldn't find any previous threads on this specific problem, unless you know better, any help would be appreciated. The problem is that i have tob press the key fob three times before passenger door will stay locked on my xc90, it will lock then unlck again, all other doors lock and stay locked. If i use the door lock on drivers side or passenger side then it locks first time. Help
I have an '04 xc90 FWD with 99K on it. We've driven the same route in summer with the AC on at about 80MPH and until recently with Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's 235/65/17 and gotten about 23MPG on average.
We're just back from a trip on the same route only this time in cooler weather (no AC) with a new set of Bridgestone Ecopia EP422. Same size.And got a whopping 26 mpg on average at 80 mph and for one stretch I isolated out at a lower speed of 65 - 70 and we were up to 27.5 MPG. The car was similarly loaded in all cases.
Absolutely quiet tires too - a real pleasure. The car was delivered with MPG figures of 16 / 22. $114 at Costco with coupon. Interestingly enough their tire spec by mfgr & year doesn't show the xc90 any longer.
On the xc90 i'm buying everything works great on it except the manual shifting function... Automatic portion works fine, smooth shifts, but moving the shifter over into manual does nothing and in the message center in the left of the cluster it has "limited shifter functionality" or something like that... It works fine in drive but something I would want to address b/c i would like the manual functionality... Any ideas or previous experience with this issue?
Hi, I am about to buy an XC90 R Design '10 plate for the first time. I have a 2 yr old daughter and my wife's expecting twins. My query relates to the centre console on models that have the headrest TV screens and DVD player. Does having this feature restrict the removal of the centre console significantly? I want to be able to accommodate my eldest child sat on the middle booster seat in the forward position when she's old enough. TV screens for the kids is a great idea, but I'd rather have my child be able to sit comfortably as she grows.
Forgive me, but I'm new to this. I've got an 04 XC90 and it seems to be using an excessive amount of coolant, a gallon a month. I can't seem to find a leak, but in my search for the leak, I found what looks like an oil leak, just past the front oil pan, the whole area there is covered with oil (not on the oil pan, but the pan behind it). Now the charge air hose looks green and sticky, but not wet, so the leak could be there but I can't imagine a gallon of coolant coming out there. The intercooler charging pipes look like they have a little liquid on them but I see no actual leak. and now i'm panicking with oil all over just past the oil pan. Anybody have Ideas? I'll get on and post pictures in the morning after I take some.
Hello everyone. 2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensorS going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
The radio/CD audio system on my 2005 XC90 2.5T recently died - when pushed power button, nothing is turned on. I rarely used it, so I don't know exact time when it failed. As a result, the backup sensors also stopped working, as I heard the alert sound comes from the audio system.
I went to the dealer shop and they diagnosed the issue to be the bad ICM module. They gave me a quote of US $1,200 to put in a new one. However, they mention, due to the bad ICM, they cannot test if any other parts connected to it are functional, ie, if the backup sensors are still good - they may or may not work when the new ICM installed.
I don't know much about car mechanics and would like to check the forum to see if anyone has any experience with the ICM module issues. How serious is the problem? Should I go for a fix asap? Will the sensors work after the new ICM installed? The dealer shop called Volvo US and Volvo is willing to contribute $300 to the repair cost. Is this type of failure common for XC90s? I have just over 70k miles and have been following all maintenance schedules. Do you think maybe I should ask Volvo to contribute more (50-50 split) as I read through the post, it seems not that common issue.
Hello....I'm the guy with the XC90 in Gabon. Someone brought me some power steering fluid, brake fluid, oil,......but I forgot to ask for radiator fluid....crap!
Today I got the red triangle and low coolant warning...topping it off with water made it go away, but I need some fluid. I can't get Pentosin radiator fluid here. Is there another kind of radiator fluid I can put in the car that will mix with the existing stuff? If I just get ethylene glycol base will that work?
If I drain it all,out and start over from scratch...does it matter what kind of fluid I put in? Thanks.
I am pretty sure the leaking hose connector is a result of a different dimension. I am not sure if I can fix this with Teflon tape or if I can get a new connector that fits the aluminium nozzle. I read it was a good idea to replace the plastic one. I am hoping someone else has done this before me.
I have no idea why the timing belt is walking off. It always walks off exactly 3/8 of an inch.
2004 T6 XC90 with 110,000 mph. We moved to Libreville, Gabon and we have 1 of 4 Volvos in this country. I need steering fluid, but there is no way I can get the Pentosin CHF11S here. The biggest auto shop in town said they sell a "green synthetic steering fluid", but there is no reference to Pentosin CHF11S on it.....can I drain the steering fluid and start fresh with a non-Pentosin CHF11S type?
The turbo stopped working some time ago, and the check engine light is on. The volvo dealer simply told us that we need to replace the turbos. They did not appear to try very hard to understand the problem. I took the car to a specialist in turbo repairs, he said that the turbos are fine (they tested the pressure generated) but that a valve is stuck and needs to be replaced.
But we cannot find the part number for the valve anywhere.
We have searched all online resources without any luck. So I turn to you for help.
Please have a look at the pics below, and let me know if you can identify the part number so I can order a replacement.
Hello everyone! GROM Audio is looking for local beta testers for its coming soon USB/Bluetooth/AUX-In interface adapter for Volvo XC90 04-09 factory stereos. The adapter connects directly to factory stereo of your car and provides music interface for USB mass storage device (flash drive, external hard drive). The USB drive becomes your virtual CD changer and you are able to control the music, browse by folders, songs. The best feature is that you don't need the dedicated player for in-car use, and you retain your dashboard factory look. In addition to USB integration GROM adapter features Bluetooth connection for hands free and wireless playback and AUX-IN 3.5mm connector for any audio source. This is a new product from GROM Audio that utilizes MOST-Bus technology. You can read more about GROM Audio at company website. We are looking for people who live in San Francisco Bay Area and are willing to drive to our shop in Belmont. Please reply if interested or send private message for details. Thank you.
I have 2009 Volvo XC90 3.2 R with TF-80SC AWD gear box. By switching from 2nd to 3rd it jerks, but not all the time what could it be. it's annoying me. any idea? what I can do? Thanks for you help everybody.
Hi there I have an xc90 D5 awd. It has about 200 000 km on the clock. It started cutting out a month ago while driving on a gravel road. After cutting out about 10 times I just tried are 2nd key and it hasn't given us the problem ever again. I then went to Volvo who told me to replace the key .. R4200 rand.. Insane I obviously didn't go thru with it been using the other key ever since. Does anyone know how I can fix this myself
I've owned my XC90 for a few months now. It's a 04, and I'd like to update the interior and exterior to look like the newer models. Can anyone suggest some little, quick things I can do to update the look? Thanks.
Okay, I have an interesting issue. I have access to an XC90 that had a bad DIM with 86,000. The previous owner replaced the DIM with a used DIM that had 152,000 on it. The car has been driven for about a month with the used DIM.
If I get a new XEMODEX DIM, will it read the old mileage of about 86K or will it inherit the new "used" DIMs mileage of 152,000?
I went to the local Volvo dealer, who called Volvo direct and they would not give me an answer. They said that they could not read the mileage from the ECU, they could only get it from the DIM. That seemed fishy to me.
I just bought a 2008 XC90 I want to upgrade the audio system but haven't had much luck finding out what's available for this vehicle. Presenty, i have the 6 cd changer system but it's not the Dolby pro logic II deck with surround sound. I also want to have xm or sirius radio installed. I called a Volvo dealer and they can install Sirius (only) for around $800.00 however they can't offer me an upgrade for the audio system, only a new sub woofer? Has anyone on the forum installed an after-market system? I called a custom audio shop and they won't even work on Volvo vehicles due to the complicated electrical system. Thanks in advance. T.
[b]Volvo XC90 T6 AWD (2004) Changed my battery and now my turn signals won't work, won't show from display panel (interior) or light up (exterior), and my fog lamps are also not working. Used a memory settings save backup and checked fuses but can't figure out what's wrong. Electrical worked fine before battery change. Battery was aftermarket (non-OEM).
I'm writing this because the information I found online was incomplete or not very detailed regarding the XC90. Even some of the Volvo VADIS information was somewhat sparse. I did a horrible job of taking pictures along the way so I used others I found on the web along with some of my own. Hopefully someone finds this helpful.
Overall This job isn't that hard, it just takes time. If you follow what I have here along with some of the other resources listed at the bottom of this page you'll be just fine.
A Few Tips The lock rings are on tight. You'll probably need a special tool. Buy one or make one but a screwdriver and hammer probably won't cut it. Keep a vacuum handy. Both access areas had a ton of dirt in them and if you don't vacuum it up it goes right in the tank.
The Pump There are different pumps for different chassis numbers (last 6 numbers of your VIN) so make sure you get the right one. My pump was part number 31261819. I was able to find on at TascaParts.com. I paid $260 shipped for an OEM pump.
Getting Started First thing to do is disconnect the negative lead to the battery, let the car sit for a few minutes to avoid any unwanted airbag deployment.
Back Seats Next you need to remove the back seats. Mine only has the single row of back seats so if yours has the third row, I can't help with that. NOTE: the middle seat has an electrical connector that needs to be unhooked. Each seat is held on by (4) 13mm bolts. The front bolts are easy to get to after removing the plastic covers. There's a single tab you push down and the plastic covers slide forward. To remove the rear bolts I removed the floor panel in the cargo space. It's not even bolted down so it's easy to remove. After removing all the bolts the seats come out easily.
Carpet Removal The carpet comes up easily. There are two foam inserts that need to be removed also. This will reveal the two access panels for the fuel pump and level sensor. Why two access panels? Because the pump unit has hoses and electrical connections coming off it that stretch across the gas tank to the level sensor. If you want more detail - I got nothing
Fuel Level Sensor Side (drivers side) One thing I didn't plan on was the seat frame being potentially in the way. After looking at what it would take to remove it I decided to move forward to see what would happen. Thankfully it wasn't an issue for me.
The access panel is held on by (4) 10mm nuts. Simply remove them and work the access panel off the studs. The one nut under the seat frame isn't pleasant but easy enough with a 10mm wrench. Carefully remove the rubber gasket from the access panel and set the panel aside.The gasket has one wire going through it. I unplugged the wire, removed it from the gasket and set the gasket aside. This made it a little easier to work.
Next is removal of the plastic lock ring. This is where you need to make or buy a special tool. I got this one on Amazon and it worked great.
Mine was held on very tightly! I actually broke off one of the lock ring "ears" but was able to finally remove it. Because of the seat frame being in the way this is slow as you have about 1/8 of a turn to work with.
Once you get that off you need to remove the fuel pump hoses from the level sensor. There is one yellow plastic clip attached the the level sensor and one electrical connection (black wires). I removed the level sensor from the tank also. There might be a way to do it without unclipping the float but I couldn't figure it out. So I unclipped the float being VERY CAREFUL not to lose it in the tank. I also made a note of exactly how it needed to be reassembled.
Vacuum up the dirt around the edge and remove the o-ring also. I re-used the old one. You may want to use a new one. They're about $10 a piece. NOTE: be very careful not to vacuum up any gas - I've seen YouTube videos of this - hilarious unless it's you.
Finally you're ready to tie a wire or string (I used some old speaker wire) to the fuel pump hoses so when you pull them to the other side as you remove the pump you can feed the new hoses back through. Don't screw this up. Fishing the hoses from one side to the other would be a nightmare.
Fuel Pump Side (passenger side) Remove the access panel as described above.
This side has a lot more connections and hoses to deal with. It can be a pretty annoying juggling act of one of the electrical connections or fuel lines getting in the way as you work. Just keep at it, you'll be fine.
Remove the electrical connection and gas lines. Move all the connections and hoses out of the way as much as possible.
Remove the lock ring as described above, this side is thankfully easier.
Remove the fuel pump assembly. Be careful as my basket was full of gas. I had to use a turkey baster to suck some of it out. I had less than 1/8 of a tank of gas and I'm glad. You DON'T want to dump a bunch of fuel on the floor of your car.
Once again I had to unclip the float, once again being careful not to drop it in the tank.
Pull the fuel pump out with the hoses bringing the string or wire with it. Remove the string or wire from the old pump hoses and attach them to the new ones. You'll also want to remove the o-ring just as above.
Pull the hoses from the new pump over to the fuel sensor access hole. This took a few tries for me. Don't force it, eventually it will find it's way. Now install the new pump. Again I found it easier to remove the float and reattach it after getting both in the tank. It just seems like the fuel pump hole is too small to fit both. You might be able to make it work - if so great. Keep on working the pump into the tank. Don't force it, eventually it will find it's home.
Reinstall the o-ring and then work the lock ring back into the hole. Tighten the lock ring making sure the arrow on the fuel pump is facing to the rear of the car.
Install the access panel gasket making sure the wires are going through the appropriate holes. For any holes not used make sure to use the plugs attached to the gasket.
Replace the access panel and tighten the nuts.
Back To The Fuel Level Sensor Side Remove the string or wire from the new pump hoses. Make sure you have reinstalled the o-ring.
Reinstall the yellow clip to the fuel level sensor and electrical connection.
Install the fuel level sensor and (in my case) reattach the float.
Push down into the fuel tank and reinstall the lock ring. Once again make sure the arrow is pointing straight back.
Install the access panel gasket and run the wire through the gasket. Make sure any other holes are plugged with the plugs attached to the gasket.
Replace the access panel and tighten the nuts.
Finishing Up Replace the foam and carpet.
Reinstall the seats making sure to reconnect the electrical connection under the middle seat.
Replace the batter cable following the VADIS guidelines below.
I have owned a 2003 S60 AWD 2.5 turbo for a few years now. I love the car but tried of sitting on floor and need more room inside. I found this car at a dealer. Mileage: 36,548 Body Style: SUV Exterior Color: Silver Metallic Interior Color: Black Fuel: Gasoline Engine: 3.2L I6 24V MPFI DOHC Transmission: 6-Speed Automatic Drivetrain: AWD Doors: 4 2008 Volvo XC90 3.2 - $21,924. I am located in Chicago not sure if it is the right price and if there is mechanical problems are common for this car. I am going tomorrow to possibly buy. Thanks for any input that is left.
e just purchased an 04 XC90 T6. The radio on the car is not functioning. I pulled it this weekend and it is part number 30679465. I called the local JY and they didn't have any 30679465, but they did have a 30679180. Both look like they're for 'no car phone' installs. I made sure i'll get the VIN as the dealership said this is necessary to get the radio code... but my question is: are these two radio units interchangable? Thanks!
We have a 2007 XC90 and there is some issue where the car locks itself. It happens when the key is not in the ignition. I'll get out of the car and without pushing anything on the key fab it will lock. Then it will not unlock unless you hit lock, then unlock.
It happens all the time....Sometimes 30 minutes to an hour after getting out of the car and parking it in our garage. We rarely lock the car in our garage but we almost always find it locked.
- Seems to happen more often in the cold - Seems to be an issue with the car (educated guess) and not the key as it locks itself even when the key is completely out of range
Thanks in Advance to anyone that has any ideas, guesses or things to try to narrow down the problem!
Well since I have got past the transmission issue I would like to narrow down the ABS trouble. While at the dealer I had them give me the codes for the ABS light. He gave me two codes: BCM-0070 whisch is an ABS conrtrol module code BCM-0133 which is Brake Pressure fault- low signal Is there anything other than the module that can throw a BCM-0070? Could the actual pressure pump cause both the codes? If it is the module are you able to put in a used one and get it to work or are they all specifically programmed for each car?
Only asking because I was quoted over $1700+ to repair which included ABS control module, Brake pressure sensor labot and tax.
The issue began while driving at about 70mph on the highway. The car acted like it was running out of gas, skipping and hesitating. After getting off the highway the issue persisted. Accelerating from a stop caused the car to once again act like it was running out of gas sputtering and lurching. The CEL came on and it stalled once before getting to an AutoZone. The codes came back as P2177 (too lean off idle bank 1) and P0089 (fuel pressure regulator).
I limped home and parked the car for a few days to check out my options. After a few days the car drove perfectly with no issues. But the issue returned the same as before within a few more days. So here's what I've done thus far....
1. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor (no change) 2. Replaced spark plugs (no change) 3. Replaced fuel filter (car ran perfectly for a few weeks, self clearing the CEL) 4. Ran some Seafoam cleaner through a tank of gas (car continued to run fine) 5. A few days ago the issue returns, same as before 6. Cleaned MAF (no change)
After replacing the fuel filter and running the Seafoam it ran great. Then all of a sudden it's doing the exact same thing again.
I've scoured the web for more info but come up empty handed. My thoughts now lean toward the following...
1. Leak in the turbo system or TCV issue 2. Bad injector(s) 3. Bad coil(s) 4. Failing fuel pump 5. Random O2 sensor freaking out
I'd rather not toss $2000 in parts at the issue so any ideas are greatly appreciated!
I have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge. Anyone else dealt with a similar issue?
So I'm new to the Volvo scene, always liked them but never had one. Just got a 2009 XC90 with 70,000 miles and am doing a complete maint to it and keep finding differing info on what to get. Would like to know from personal experience what is good and what is not. It's a 3.2 with awd, thanks for the help in advance
I'm the orig. owner of a 2004 XC90 2.5T with 87,000 miles used almost exclusively in Arizona. Other than the fuel pump recall and the front struct seats I've had ot do little maintenance beyond discs, pads and oil changes. I changed the serpentine belt as a preventive measure. Rubber parts seem to degrade more rapidly in AZ.
I'm advised by the dealer to replace the front control arm bushings (or the entire part) for this reason which I'll do as soon as I replace the tires.
What is the consensus on the timing belt and water pump ? Plugs ? The manual says 120,000. I can feel the need to replace the motor mounts too. Any thoughts on the cost of each ? Thanks in advance.
I'm new to the forum because yesterday my 2004 XC90 wouldn't drive. I came to a stoplight and heard some grinding underneath the car and when the light changed and I stepped on the gas, it as as if I had it in neutral except that it sounded like someone was taking a chainsaw to the underside of my car. I was able to get it into a nearby parking lot and when I put the thing in either reverse or drive, the chainsaw noise kept going. It made no sound in neutral.
We found this site and immediately thought it might be the issue with the GM transmission, and since this car only has around 83k miles, thought I might be in line for the Volvo Goodwill Assistance Program. The body shop just called to inform me it's the Transfer Case and it "grenaded". Has anyone else had this problem, first of all, and is it similar to the transmission issue where I might get some help from Volvo?