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The purpose of this post is to assist others who may have some variations from the different tutorials on the web for changing the XC90 2.5T timing belt. I ran into a few surprises and wanted to share those with others who might be facing the same thing. This isn't a whole tutorial, there are enough of those out there. It's just supplemental info for people who might run into similar snags.
Vehicle: 2005 XC90 2.5T
Engine Number This made a difference for me. There are timing belt kits for engine numbers up to 3188688 and kits for 3188689 and beyond. The difference is with the tensioner. My engine number was on the sticker on the lower timing belt cover. If that's missing it's on the back of the engine block and a pain to locate from what I understand.
Below are the part numbers for the different timing belt kits.
Serpentine Belt All the tutorials I found stated the tensioner could be moved with a 14mm wrench. Well not if your tensioner has a large T60 torx inlet like mine and this one.
I ended up taking a fellow Volvo owners advice and pieced together the tool I needed because there doesn't seem to be one out there. I bought a 1/2" drive T60 bit like this one.
However just putting this onto a 1/2" breaker won't work due to the limited clearance. So if you hammer the torx bit out of the socket you are left with a T60 torx bit that will fit into a 12mm 3/8" drive socket which barely fits in the small space. You'll have to tape the torx bit into the socket so you don't lose it. Once you get the socket into the tensioner I slid a 19mm wrench onto the ratchet for more leverage. Just push towards the front of the car and the belt should come off pretty easily.
Oscillation Damper / Harmonic Balancer / Crankshaft Pulley I tried to get this sucker off but finally gave up. I left it on as others have and it was fine. I did however have to remove the lower plastic cover (number 1 in the below image).
It's held on by two 10mm bolts. You can't really see what you're doing but you can feel around and get a 10mm wrench in there pretty easily. Once removed it allowed me to fish the new belt around the damper and get it seated on the crankshaft gear. Make sure the belt is actually on the gear. There are a few spots it can get snagged behind the damper. You can't see so it's all by touch but it's not too bad. I'm not sure if it's easier than removing the damper but I didn't have an impact wrench so it was my only option.
Tensioner and Idler I removed the old ones completely before taking the old belt off. It helped to have less for it to snag on. I also waited until I had the new belt on the crankshaft gear before putting the new ones on. This worked great and working around the new belt is easy, you just push it out of the way to install the new tensioner and idler.
Those Fun Timing Marks I had this all screwed up during the process. Adding to the fun I moved the crankshaft trying to remove the damper so I had to make sure everything was right. The lower timing mark is the hardest one to see. This image does a pretty good job of showing it to you. I lined up the mark on the engine block, through the valley of the gear and to the mark closest to you. This lined up to a mark I had previously put on the damper so I was convinced it was correct.
The upper cams move pretty easily so I was constantly having to reset those to make sure everything was correct. While putting the new belt on it took a few times to get the upper cams in the right spot. One tooth doesn't sound like much but it will be very noticeable on where the timing marks are. Just double and triple check everything is in the right spot. Once you get it right set the belt tension and tighten the center bolt on the tensioner.
Rotate the engine twice clockwise to see if the timing is okay. After the second time make sure the timing marks are all in the right spot.
Lower Timing Belt Cover This stupid thing is a pain. It just takes messing with it until it falls into place. It needs to sit behind the damper which means shoving the cover down there and your hand to get it to slip behind the damper. After about 10 minutes mine finally dropped into place.
Useful Resources Some of these are XC90 specific and some are other models but they all have useful information to do this job. This certainly isn't a complete list but these helped me.
Final Thoughts Take your time and you should be fine. Just remember before you button everything back up and turn that key triple check everything. It's not a hard job but if done wrong it can be very unforgiving and EXPENSIVE to fix. Good luck!
The check engine light was on my 2006 Volvo XC90 V8 engine and the code indicated it was fuel pressure related. I started by replacing the fuel filter located in front of the passenger side rear tire under the car. No good. The second step was the fuel pressure sensor. I found a few post online indicating it could be reached under the intake manifold but could see no way to remove it with human size hands. Below are the removal procedures I wrote down as I unearthed it from it’s hard to reach location. It’s a bit of a handful of a job which I had to do twice due to a kink in the fuel pressure sensor washer and moderate skills. See note 8. Second time is always easier and took about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Mine had metal gaskets on the intake which I deemed good to reuse. Go slow and take you time and it is manageable. 1. Remove the front plastic engine cover by pulling up. 2. Remove the cross brace at the back of the engine you will need 15MM and 18MM sockets and an 18 MM wrench. 3. Remove the back of engine plastic cover. 4. Passenger side of engine- A. remove power steering hose clamp where it heads under intake manifold. Flat blade shorty. B. Remove plastic cover over the accessory belt 2 torques drive bolts. C. Located under where the hose was you will need to remove (1) 10MM bolt holding down intake manifold. D. disconnect 2 vacuum lines this area. E. Disconnect sensor on back of manifold this area. 5. Remove intake manifold bolts with 6MM hex head. 9 in front and 11 in back. Could find no torque spec to replace and used 20 lbs as a guesstimate. 6. At the throttle body area. A. Disconnect air intake from throttle body. B. Disconnect three small diameter hoses at front of throttle body. A little coolant will leak out but not much. C. There is a couple of hoses at the back of the throttle body and into the manifold. I found it easier to remove (2) 10MM bolts from the doohickey with the larger diameter hose where it entered the block. The other small hose a pinch hose clamp. 7. You can now lift up the intake manifold. There will still be one hose connected going way under the manifold but there was plenty of slack to leave it connected. 8. The sensor is located under the throttle body area, has (1) 10 MM bolt and a wire connection. It fit very snuggle in the fuel rail and has difficult to remove. The fuel system is under pressure and gas you should let the pressure off back at the fuel filter before removal of the sensor. Fit the new one in carefully to make sure it does not kink the rubber washer.
The drivers windows when engaging the auto up will close then go back to it's previous position. I physically have to keep the button engaged for the window to close... Otherwise, it works... Any suggestions? Thx...
In the past on my cars, I've always used a magnetic oil plug to trap those fine metallic shavings or whatever. They are available on the XC-90, but on eBay, all say that they are not compatible with the 2014 XC-90. Prior years are okay.
What is that about? Isn't a 3.2 engine in 2013 and 2014 the same? Are the threads different on the oil pan and the plug between 2013 and 2014? Or is the reach on the prior plugs too long and will be hit by moving parts (like the crank) in the 2014?
Does anyone know info on this? Is anyone using magnetic plugs on a 2014 XC-90? If so, where did you get it? Or, does anyone know the thread specs on the XC-90's Oil drain plug?
I plan on doing interim oil changes on my new 2014 XC90 between the scheduled 10,000 mile intervals. Doing some research, I ran across a couple of statement or theories on copper vs aluminum crush washers. And some statements.
+ Has heat properties more similar to steel for steel oil pans. - Copper is denser than aluminum meaning there is a risk of stripping threads in an aluminum oil pan, because copper needs more torque to start the crush.
+ Crushes easier than copper and seals better being less dense.- - May react more strongly with other chemicals and materials than copper.
I'm curious as to what you all think is the better crush washer for the oil drain plug.
I haven't done my first oil change yet, so I don't know if the oil pan on the 2014 3.2L 6 cylinder engine is aluminum or steel. You might comment on that. I can figure it out real easy when I get around to doing my oil change when I drop the splash shroud off.
Been combing through all the usual suspects in terms of this helpful forum, as well as many other for a simple breakdown repair procedure for a leaking condenser. Haven't actually found anything on this, so hopefully it's so easy it needs limited explanation. Can I just remove the bolts, slide out the old, slide in the new, reattach hoses, and recharge system?
There is a pin-hole leak in the front of the condenser unit next to the receiver drier portion (Volvo P/N CH 664303) of the OEM unit.
Vehicle is a 2005 XC90, 2.5T, FWD (VIN ends in X51203240). Honest indy repair shop says $850 repair, but they are using a Volvo part and aren't the cheapest labor. I've looked this thing over and over, and it seems like the easiest repair in the world. The only catch is the system evacuation and recharge.
Questions: 1) Should I take the vehicle to be evacuated before replacing the part, and then return to have the system properly recharged? Can I do this myself, or do I run serious risk of endangering the passengers/driver, or ruining the compressor unit if simply buying a canister of R-134a with a built-in pressure gauge for the recharging?
2) What exactly would be the procedure for evacuation, removal, and recharge of the system so as to not accidentally ruin expensive components (compressor and the like)?
3) My unit appears similar to the unit here: http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/ however there are other units which I believe are for newer models that include a very differently styled receiver dryer (Google condenser and you'll see a little appendage off to the side which is canister shaped and quite larger and rounder than the older configuration which I believe mine is...). Do I need anything other than a replacement unit, or should I also have on hand replacement hardware, seals, lubricants, etc.?
4) Can I simply by a canister to recharge the system, or is this a dumb idea?
Any ideas or procedural breakdown would be appreciated. Will post repair video once I get the part, but can't decide if I should do this, or leave to AC shop...
Hi all! New member here. I've been looking at the XC90 for the longest time. This would be my first luxury brand purchase. I have owned cars (mostly Japanese) and laboriously kept the maintenance schedule thus, cars last a long time with me. I keep them until they die. I currently drive a 12 year old Honda Accord (bought new). Still runs as good as the day it rolled out of the dealership lot.
I am aware of the tranny issues on the XC90 model and thus, narrowed my search to 2008 and newer. I saw this XC90 2008 with 70k miles at a reasonable price sold by a Volvo dealer. Carfax looks clean and I am thinking of doing a test drive and having it inspected at another Volvo dealer.
Since the XC90 I am looking at is technically a 6 year old vehicle, what are the potential mechanical and electrical problems I would be facing down the road? Any particular items I should be looking out for when test driving and having it checked out by a mechanic?
I would like to hear the experiences of current and previous owners or those who have heard of issues on this vehicle.
PS. The same Volvo dealer has a 2012 XC90 with 68k miles but, $10k more expensive. Should I bite the bullet on the 2008 or get the more expensive 2012?
I just joined the forum. I've belonged to other forums over many years and received lots of great information. I"m sure I'll experience that here too.
My Question on this first thread: I just took delivery of my new 2014 XC-90. I've got about 2,500 miles on it now and at 5,000 miles, I'd like to change the oil and the oil filter. I don't want to wait until 10,000 miles for the dealership to do it. I like to change the oil more often
Looking at purchasing a filter, I notice online that the 2014 XC90 is different from the 2013 and previous years.
Question: Can someone tell me the difference from the 2013 and earlier models? It seems the 2014 is unique somehow and requires a 2014 only compatible filter.
Thanks. I know I"ll have other questions too in the future.
Can someone help me find a paint code for the silver running boards? Or maybe someone has found a product that is a very close match. Some of the paint is chipping on mine and I don't want to repaint the whole thing.
Car was parked on Sunday with no issue and after being outside the house (it is pretty hot today) I started it to move it to the other side of the driveway. It has a message that says Anti-Skid off. I am trying to research this but none of the threads seem to point to a fault.
The air conditioning unit in my XC-90 is confounding me.
It works fine, blows lots of cold air, *except* after the car has been parked in the hot sun (SoCal here), in which case nothing engages - I start up the car, hit the AC, and no fan, no cold air, nothing. All the LEDs on the AC controls are working fine -- there's power to the AC unit. But it won't engage until I park it in a relatively cool spot and the car comes back to a normal temperature. Then everything works fine. Oddly, if AC running, doesn't matter how hot it is outside, the AC will continue to operate as long as I don't shut it off. It just seems for to need a cool cabin temp to start. Weird.
I have several hypotheses, but I'm sure there's somebody here who might know this system much better than I. So, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi all, It seems I'm the proud owner of a xc90 piggy bank in place of my single disc cd player. Yes got to love kids. Our car is a 2004 xc90 with the high performance stereo system, it has the amp under the drivers seat and single cd player in the dash.
Is it possible to retro fit the 6 disc stacker (yes i know these have issues, and even more room for the kids to put loose change) but I want to fit the grom audio usb adapter so we can finally listen to our mp3's. The grom audio only works with the cd changer. So my question really is, can I either make my car think it has the cd changer,(as far as I can see the grom takes the place of it, so i don't think i need it physically in the car) or do I have to fit an actual cd stacker and make it work in my car and then fit the grom audio adapter?
By the way I tried the aux-in wired into the radio up in the roof and my soldering isnt too good and now I only have right hand side sound, but when the cd player was working I had stereo sound.
Or is it possible to add a later model cd player (mp3 compatible) to my car? I'm guessing software needs to be uploaded, but is there more issues than just that?
Has anyone had any luck replacing our 5W bulbs (license plate, parking lights etc.) with LED's ? Do they generate an error code due to lack of resistance ? All my 5W's seem to go in rapid succession at the same time and the LED's will last longer.
Have 2014 XC-90 w/10k miles. Problem is sporadic (has happened approx 10-15 times over past year).
From standing stop (stop light, etc) -- press on accelerator and VERY LITTLE to no acceleration. Engine continues to run smoothly -- no indication of fuel starvation, no roughness --- just no acceleration. It does NOT appear to be transmission oriented because when it finally "kicks in" there is no feeling of transmission shifting or wild tach movement (to indicate that there was a changing of the gears, etc). I get things back to "normal" by pumping the accelerator (usually a reflex action because the are vehicles behind me wanting to "go"). VERY disconcerting issue. Local Volvo dealer says "cannot find any error messages", etc. My only complaint with the car -- second XC-90 and 5th Volvo.
My XC90 is sometimes not starting and it is starting again after 6-12 hours, not within 1 or 2 hours. When it is not starting, no dashboard error messages, radio is working fine, battery is full, cranks.
I think that car prevents itself by starting it and car automatically unlocks it after fixed time (like after 6-12hours). Is it possible??
What is the problem?? How to fix that? If anyone had same problem and fixed that, please let me know. If you know a good Volvo mechanic near Kingston UK, please introduce to me.
I've been having a squeak in the front end on the driver's side of my '04 XC90 2.5T AWD for a while now. It happens sometimes when going over bumps and when turning. From reading these forums, I figured I needed to replace the spring seats, which I tackled and finished today. Yet the squeak is till there! What else could this problem be?
This is for a 2004 XC90 2.5T. A car service place advised today to change out the front rotors. I was able to find the minimum thickness of 25MM but not the original thickness which would help me to calculate how much is actually left. ( I only have a digital caliper and can measure the amount of wear to date)
Cant seem to locate this spec anywhere. Much appreciate any help.
I have a 2008 XC90 with the 3.2L six. I have a question concerning the 6 speed AWTF-80 SC transmissions. It deals with the torque converter lockup. Does the torque converter lock up in 3rd and 4th gears as well as the higher gears? Does the torque converter lockup disengage when the brakes are applied? The reason I'm asking is that I'm trying to isolate a vibration problem during light acceleration and I would like to rule in or out a problem with the torque converter. I would appreciate any info.
My husband and I keep going back and forth on whether to get a Volvo XC90 or a Lexus RX350. I really like Volvo's and have always wanted to own one. The problem is, for the money, we get SO much more amenities and features on the Lexus. Here are the two cars in more details:
2011 Lexus RX350, AWD (certified pre-owned) $35,729 28,803 miles Navigation, heated and cooled seats, back up camera, power lift gate, memory seats, push button start and homelink 18 city/24 Hwy mpg
2013 Volvo XC90, AWD (certified pre-owned) $39,998 6,300 miles heated seats, memory seats, blind spot monitoring, DVD player in head rests.
Volvo doesn't have homelink, navigation, back up camera, cooled seats, power lift gate or push button start. The Lexus doesn't have the DVD system or a third row, although, we don't absolutely need the third row.
The problem is, I love the way the Volvo looks. Better than the Lexus. And, like I said, I have always wanted a Volvo. From what I hear they last forever and are great cars, if you take care of them.
So, I would love to hear feedback from Volvo owners on what they think of these two vehicles and which is the better buy. Is it worth going for the Volvo even though it has less amenities? Thanks!
Hi, I am about to buy an XC90 R Design '10 plate for the first time. I have a 2 yr old daughter and my wife's expecting twins. My query relates to the centre console on models that have the headrest TV screens and DVD player. Does having this feature restrict the removal of the centre console significantly? I want to be able to accommodate my eldest child sat on the middle booster seat in the forward position when she's old enough. TV screens for the kids is a great idea, but I'd rather have my child be able to sit comfortably as she grows.
Hi, I was wondering anyone knows if halogen headlight units can be direct plug and play replaced by OEM bixenon headlight units? I don't have to use HID bulbs but if all the socket and plugs are the same (both H7 on my halogen)?
Hello all, new to the forum and in need of help. I have a 2006 XC90 AWD 2.5L Turbo 85K miles. Tonight my school teacher wife went out after school to start the car and the key will not turn past the first detent. Lights, radio, etc work but the key will not turn. Only error message on the screen is "Alarm System Service Required" but that has been on and off for almost two years. I called the dealer and they said to tow it in and they would have to tear the steering column apart as the steering lock is broken...?!? Does this sound right to anyone? I am very mechanical but this thing is a whole different ballgame than my F150. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
2.5T Sport Utility 4D Turbo Mileage: 152,xxx Automatic All Wheel Drive Traction Control ABS (4-Wheel) Cold A/C Power Windows Power Door Locks Cruise Control Power Steering Telescoping Wheel AM/FM Stereo CD Player (Multi-Disc) Premium Sound Navigation System Parking Sensors Dual Air Bags F&R Side Air Bags Power Seats Leather Third Row Seats Moon Roof Roof Rack Alloy Wheels Clean Title
NC State Inspection PASSED... Inspection is still current!
NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS
************* Timing Belt Replaced JUNE 2013! (Receipts Available)
************* Brand New Radiator Installed JUNE 2013! (Receipts Available)
************* Brand New Water Pump JUNE 2013! (Receipts Available)
Over $2,200.00 of mechanical work under the hood, Receipts will be sent along with the key.
Contact 919-949-2886 for more information about this vehicle. Thanks!
I've read most of the threads on this subject and most have different ideas on the cause|solution. Here are the basic questions which are the most open to interpretation.
1 - is the airbag systems operational? 2 - if systems are okay. Then, why does the light reappear after most are able to reset via scanner or hard reset (battery pull)? 3 - can you visually inspect the SRS sensors in the engine bay for corrosion or is it possibly a bad "module"?
Thanks, inspection is due and they will not pass it as long as there is an "****" light visible, minus the "service reminder".
I recently had my timing belt | water pump changed as preventative maintenance. I have 126K on the clock. Two days after having it done, the "low coolant - stop safely" light comes on for about two minutes during cold start. I checked the reservoir during the cold start and no coolant disappears. So, it seems to me that coolant is at level. What gives?
One more thing, just had my door replaced as well and the SRS service light tripped and the body shop didn't have a scanner to clear the fault. Is that common?
Planning to install a roof rack on my XC90 and I saw the Surco safari rack at 4wheelonline. I like its aggressive design compared to crossbars and the price is within my budget. Does anyone have this kind of rack? Just curious about its quality and construction. Or do you have other recommendations similar to Surco? Thanks guys.
I've got a low speed vibration upon accelerating, and from consensus, I'm pretty sure it the result of a bad passenger side front axle. My question, is finding a replacement axle. Plenty of choices for the V8, but I'm having a devil of a time finding something for the 3.2 6 cylinder.
Does anyone have any information on a good source for 3.2L axles?
Hi All Just a newbie, searched around and couldn't find any previous threads on this specific problem, unless you know better, any help would be appreciated. The problem is that i have tob press the key fob three times before passenger door will stay locked on my xc90, it will lock then unlck again, all other doors lock and stay locked. If i use the door lock on drivers side or passenger side then it locks first time. Help
I have an '04 xc90 FWD with 99K on it. We've driven the same route in summer with the AC on at about 80MPH and until recently with Bridgestone Dueler Alenza's 235/65/17 and gotten about 23MPG on average.
We're just back from a trip on the same route only this time in cooler weather (no AC) with a new set of Bridgestone Ecopia EP422. Same size.And got a whopping 26 mpg on average at 80 mph and for one stretch I isolated out at a lower speed of 65 - 70 and we were up to 27.5 MPG. The car was similarly loaded in all cases.
Absolutely quiet tires too - a real pleasure. The car was delivered with MPG figures of 16 / 22. $114 at Costco with coupon. Interestingly enough their tire spec by mfgr & year doesn't show the xc90 any longer.
On the xc90 i'm buying everything works great on it except the manual shifting function... Automatic portion works fine, smooth shifts, but moving the shifter over into manual does nothing and in the message center in the left of the cluster it has "limited shifter functionality" or something like that... It works fine in drive but something I would want to address b/c i would like the manual functionality... Any ideas or previous experience with this issue?
Forgive me, but I'm new to this. I've got an 04 XC90 and it seems to be using an excessive amount of coolant, a gallon a month. I can't seem to find a leak, but in my search for the leak, I found what looks like an oil leak, just past the front oil pan, the whole area there is covered with oil (not on the oil pan, but the pan behind it). Now the charge air hose looks green and sticky, but not wet, so the leak could be there but I can't imagine a gallon of coolant coming out there. The intercooler charging pipes look like they have a little liquid on them but I see no actual leak. and now i'm panicking with oil all over just past the oil pan. Anybody have Ideas? I'll get on and post pictures in the morning after I take some.
Hello everyone. 2004 XC90 T6. Local Volvo dealer (Bangkok at the time) said my check engine light was due to the O2 sensorS going bad. I changed out the one under the car, then my wife threw out (accident) the other so I didn't change the one accessible from the hood. The check engine light went away so I figured that was that.
Fast forward a year later, I buy an Autel Maxiscan MS509 and now I'm getting check engine code P0455 which is probably the O2 sensors I didn't replace. Other than deductive reasoning, is there some way to look at the data on my OBD reader to confirm which O2 sensor is bad?
The radio/CD audio system on my 2005 XC90 2.5T recently died - when pushed power button, nothing is turned on. I rarely used it, so I don't know exact time when it failed. As a result, the backup sensors also stopped working, as I heard the alert sound comes from the audio system.
I went to the dealer shop and they diagnosed the issue to be the bad ICM module. They gave me a quote of US $1,200 to put in a new one. However, they mention, due to the bad ICM, they cannot test if any other parts connected to it are functional, ie, if the backup sensors are still good - they may or may not work when the new ICM installed.
I don't know much about car mechanics and would like to check the forum to see if anyone has any experience with the ICM module issues. How serious is the problem? Should I go for a fix asap? Will the sensors work after the new ICM installed? The dealer shop called Volvo US and Volvo is willing to contribute $300 to the repair cost. Is this type of failure common for XC90s? I have just over 70k miles and have been following all maintenance schedules. Do you think maybe I should ask Volvo to contribute more (50-50 split) as I read through the post, it seems not that common issue.