Volvo XC90 Forum

Feature my ride Mark forum as read and return

[b]Volvo XC90 T6 AWD (2004) Changed my battery and now my turn signals won't work, won't show from display panel (interior) or light up (exterior), and my fog lamps are also not working. Used a memory settings save backup and checked fuses but can't figure out what's wrong. Electrical worked fine before battery change. Battery was aftermarket (non-OEM).

How do I fix this problem?

How can i change the type of vehicle I drive in my profile, I have looked and tried everywhere. Thanks

2005 XC90 2.5T Fuel Pump Replacement

I'm writing this because the information I found online was incomplete or not very detailed regarding the XC90. Even some of the Volvo VADIS information was somewhat sparse. I did a horrible job of taking pictures along the way so I used others I found on the web along with some of my own. Hopefully someone finds this helpful.

Overall
This job isn't that hard, it just takes time. If you follow what I have here along with some of the other resources listed at the bottom of this page you'll be just fine.

A Few Tips
The lock rings are on tight. You'll probably need a special tool. Buy one or make one but a screwdriver and hammer probably won't cut it.
Keep a vacuum handy. Both access areas had a ton of dirt in them and if you don't vacuum it up it goes right in the tank.

The Pump
There are different pumps for different chassis numbers (last 6 numbers of your VIN) so make sure you get the right one. My pump was part number 31261819. I was able to find on at TascaParts.com. I paid $260 shipped for an OEM pump.

Getting Started
First thing to do is disconnect the negative lead to the battery, let the car sit for a few minutes to avoid any unwanted airbag deployment.

Back Seats
Next you need to remove the back seats. Mine only has the single row of back seats so if yours has the third row, I can't help with that.
NOTE: the middle seat has an electrical connector that needs to be unhooked.
Each seat is held on by (4) 13mm bolts. The front bolts are easy to get to after removing the plastic covers. There's a single tab you push down and the plastic covers slide forward. To remove the rear bolts I removed the floor panel in the cargo space. It's not even bolted down so it's easy to remove. After removing all the bolts the seats come out easily.

Carpet Removal
The carpet comes up easily. There are two foam inserts that need to be removed also. This will reveal the two access panels for the fuel pump and level sensor. Why two access panels? Because the pump unit has hoses and electrical connections coming off it that stretch across the gas tank to the level sensor. If you want more detail - I got nothing



Fuel Level Sensor Side (drivers side)
One thing I didn't plan on was the seat frame being potentially in the way. After looking at what it would take to remove it I decided to move forward to see what would happen. Thankfully it wasn't an issue for me.

The access panel is held on by (4) 10mm nuts. Simply remove them and work the access panel off the studs. The one nut under the seat frame isn't pleasant but easy enough with a 10mm wrench. Carefully remove the rubber gasket from the access panel and set the panel aside.The gasket has one wire going through it. I unplugged the wire, removed it from the gasket and set the gasket aside. This made it a little easier to work.

Next is removal of the plastic lock ring. This is where you need to make or buy a special tool. I got this one on Amazon and it worked great.


Lisle 63000 Fuel Tank Lock Ring Tool : Amazon.com : Automotive

Mine was held on very tightly! I actually broke off one of the lock ring "ears" but was able to finally remove it. Because of the seat frame being in the way this is slow as you have about 1/8 of a turn to work with.

Once you get that off you need to remove the fuel pump hoses from the level sensor. There is one yellow plastic clip attached the the level sensor and one electrical connection (black wires). I removed the level sensor from the tank also. There might be a way to do it without unclipping the float but I couldn't figure it out. So I unclipped the float being VERY CAREFUL not to lose it in the tank. I also made a note of exactly how it needed to be reassembled.



Vacuum up the dirt around the edge and remove the o-ring also. I re-used the old one. You may want to use a new one. They're about $10 a piece.
NOTE: be very careful not to vacuum up any gas - I've seen YouTube videos of this - hilarious unless it's you.

Finally you're ready to tie a wire or string (I used some old speaker wire) to the fuel pump hoses so when you pull them to the other side as you remove the pump you can feed the new hoses back through. Don't screw this up. Fishing the hoses from one side to the other would be a nightmare.



Fuel Pump Side (passenger side)
Remove the access panel as described above.

This side has a lot more connections and hoses to deal with. It can be a pretty annoying juggling act of one of the electrical connections or fuel lines getting in the way as you work. Just keep at it, you'll be fine.

Remove the electrical connection and gas lines. Move all the connections and hoses out of the way as much as possible.

Remove the lock ring as described above, this side is thankfully easier.



Remove the fuel pump assembly. Be careful as my basket was full of gas. I had to use a turkey baster to suck some of it out. I had less than 1/8 of a tank of gas and I'm glad. You DON'T want to dump a bunch of fuel on the floor of your car.

Once again I had to unclip the float, once again being careful not to drop it in the tank.



Pull the fuel pump out with the hoses bringing the string or wire with it. Remove the string or wire from the old pump hoses and attach them to the new ones. You'll also want to remove the o-ring just as above.

Pull the hoses from the new pump over to the fuel sensor access hole. This took a few tries for me. Don't force it, eventually it will find it's way. Now install the new pump. Again I found it easier to remove the float and reattach it after getting both in the tank. It just seems like the fuel pump hole is too small to fit both. You might be able to make it work - if so great. Keep on working the pump into the tank. Don't force it, eventually it will find it's home.

Reinstall the o-ring and then work the lock ring back into the hole. Tighten the lock ring making sure the arrow on the fuel pump is facing to the rear of the car.

Install the access panel gasket making sure the wires are going through the appropriate holes. For any holes not used make sure to use the plugs attached to the gasket.

Replace the access panel and tighten the nuts.

Back To The Fuel Level Sensor Side
Remove the string or wire from the new pump hoses. Make sure you have reinstalled the o-ring.

Reinstall the yellow clip to the fuel level sensor and electrical connection.

Install the fuel level sensor and (in my case) reattach the float.

Push down into the fuel tank and reinstall the lock ring. Once again make sure the arrow is pointing straight back.

Install the access panel gasket and run the wire through the gasket. Make sure any other holes are plugged with the plugs attached to the gasket.

Replace the access panel and tighten the nuts.

Finishing Up
Replace the foam and carpet.

Reinstall the seats making sure to reconnect the electrical connection under the middle seat.

Replace the batter cable following the VADIS guidelines below.


VADIS info
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1621802...ump%20VADIS.zip

Matthews Volvo Site Info
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vi...=10&t=22343

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vi...f=9&t=45908

Good luck!

I would like to connect my Minidisc or MP3 player to the car stereo. Does anyone know if this is possible. I have the in-dash 6 CD changer and Nav system.

I have owned a 2003 S60 AWD 2.5 turbo for a few years now. I love the car but tried of sitting on floor and need more room inside. I found this car at a dealer.
Mileage: 36,548
Body Style: SUV
Exterior Color: Silver Metallic
Interior Color: Black
Fuel: Gasoline
Engine: 3.2L I6 24V MPFI DOHC
Transmission: 6-Speed Automatic
Drivetrain: AWD
Doors: 4
2008 Volvo XC90 3.2 - $21,924. I am located in Chicago not sure if it is the right price and if there is mechanical problems are common for this car. I am going tomorrow to possibly buy. Thanks for any input that is left.

Thanks

e just purchased an 04 XC90 T6. The radio on the car is not functioning. I pulled it this weekend and it is part number 30679465. I called the local JY and they didn't have any 30679465, but they did have a 30679180. Both look like they're for 'no car phone' installs. I made sure i'll get the VIN as the dealership said this is necessary to get the radio code... but my question is: are these two radio units interchangable?
Thanks!

I have a set of cross bars from my 2005 Volvo V50. I now have an XC90. Does anyone know if they will fit my new car? They look like they do but the website has them listed as a different part number.

Any one have any ideas?

We have a 2007 XC90 and there is some issue where the car locks itself. It happens when the key is not in the ignition. I'll get out of the car and without pushing anything on the key fab it will lock. Then it will not unlock unless you hit lock, then unlock.

It happens all the time....Sometimes 30 minutes to an hour after getting out of the car and parking it in our garage. We rarely lock the car in our garage but we almost always find it locked.

Some observations....

- Seems to happen more often in the cold
- Seems to be an issue with the car (educated guess) and not the key as it locks itself even when the key is completely out of range


Thanks in Advance to anyone that has any ideas, guesses or things to try to narrow down the problem!

-Jeff

Well since I have got past the transmission issue I would like to narrow down the ABS trouble. While at the dealer I had them give me the codes for the ABS light. He gave me two codes:
BCM-0070 whisch is an ABS conrtrol module code
BCM-0133 which is Brake Pressure fault- low signal
Is there anything other than the module that can throw a BCM-0070?
Could the actual pressure pump cause both the codes?
If it is the module are you able to put in a used one and get it to work or are they all specifically programmed for each car?

Only asking because I was quoted over $1700+ to repair which included ABS control module, Brake pressure sensor labot and tax.

Thanks again for the help.

Keith

Hi Anyone have an idea where to get good quality lug nuts at a good price in Canada?


Thanks

I have a 2005 XC90, 2.5T with about 210K miles.

The issue began while driving at about 70mph on the highway. The car acted like it was running out of gas, skipping and hesitating. After getting off the highway the issue persisted. Accelerating from a stop caused the car to once again act like it was running out of gas sputtering and lurching. The CEL came on and it stalled once before getting to an AutoZone. The codes came back as P2177 (too lean off idle bank 1) and P0089 (fuel pressure regulator).

I limped home and parked the car for a few days to check out my options. After a few days the car drove perfectly with no issues. But the issue returned the same as before within a few more days. So here's what I've done thus far....

1. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor (no change)
2. Replaced spark plugs (no change)
3. Replaced fuel filter (car ran perfectly for a few weeks, self clearing the CEL)
4. Ran some Seafoam cleaner through a tank of gas (car continued to run fine)
5. A few days ago the issue returns, same as before
6. Cleaned MAF (no change)

After replacing the fuel filter and running the Seafoam it ran great. Then all of a sudden it's doing the exact same thing again.

I've scoured the web for more info but come up empty handed. My thoughts now lean toward the following...

1. Leak in the turbo system or TCV issue
2. Bad injector(s)
3. Bad coil(s)
4. Failing fuel pump
5. Random O2 sensor freaking out

I'd rather not toss $2000 in parts at the issue so any ideas are greatly appreciated!

2004 T6 XC90 with 110,000 mph. We moved to Libreville, Gabon and we have 1 of 4 Volvos in this country. I need steering fluid, but there is no way I can get the Pentosin CHF11S here. The biggest auto shop in town said they sell a "green synthetic steering fluid", but there is no reference to Pentosin CHF11S on it.....can I drain the steering fluid and start fresh with a non-Pentosin CHF11S type?

I have the "check stop lamp" message showing up. Both right and left brake lights are fine but the third brake light is totally out. I've heard of other Volvos having issues with the wiring harness near the hinge. Anyone else dealt with a similar issue?

So I'm new to the Volvo scene, always liked them but never had one. Just got a 2009 XC90 with 70,000 miles and am doing a complete maint to it and keep finding differing info on what to get. Would like to know from personal experience what is good and what is not. It's a 3.2 with awd, thanks for the help in advance

I'm the orig. owner of a 2004 XC90 2.5T with 87,000 miles used almost exclusively in Arizona. Other than the fuel pump recall and the front struct seats I've had ot do little maintenance beyond discs, pads and oil changes. I changed the serpentine belt as a preventive measure. Rubber parts seem to degrade more rapidly in AZ.

I'm advised by the dealer to replace the front control arm bushings (or the entire part) for this reason which I'll do as soon as I replace the tires.

What is the consensus on the timing belt and water pump ? Plugs ? The manual says 120,000. I can feel the need to replace the motor mounts too. Any thoughts on the cost of each ? Thanks in advance.

I'm new to the forum because yesterday my 2004 XC90 wouldn't drive. I came to a stoplight and heard some grinding underneath the car and when the light changed and I stepped on the gas, it as as if I had it in neutral except that it sounded like someone was taking a chainsaw to the underside of my car. I was able to get it into a nearby parking lot and when I put the thing in either reverse or drive, the chainsaw noise kept going. It made no sound in neutral.

We found this site and immediately thought it might be the issue with the GM transmission, and since this car only has around 83k miles, thought I might be in line for the Volvo Goodwill Assistance Program. The body shop just called to inform me it's the Transfer Case and it "grenaded". Has anyone else had this problem, first of all, and is it similar to the transmission issue where I might get some help from Volvo?

Thanks in advance for the guidance.

My AC stopped working recently. I connected a gauge to the low pressure side with engine running and AC on, the reading was in excess of 100. So naturally i didn't add any refrigerant. I have heard the compressor kick in a couple of times but now it doesn't.

The dice is giving code ECM5200

Possible source
Damaged A/C pressure sensor
Low pressure in the air conditioning (A/C) system


I found in Dice their are other codes example 520* there are several different final letters each being specific to a certain item. LLike:

Error Code from Dice [ 284: ECM-520D Air conditioning (A/C) pressure sensor. Signal too low]

Possible source
Open-circuit in the power supply
Open-circuit in the ground lead
Damaged A/C pressure sensor


Anyone ever had just the sensor go out? I'm wishing it is not the compressor. But since I'm getting code ECM5200 and not ECM520D or other it may be the dreadful dead compressor.

Anyone have any thoughts or helpful suggestions.

I have an 08 XC90, now running into the problem that the passenger side AC will work when on full cold, but driver side will blow hot when dialed in at full cold. 2nd row seating follows suit, 3rd row blows cold. Thoughts on a fix?

Where exactly is the crankshaft position sensor located? I have the part, and I've read that it is fairly simple to replace, but I cannot find anything to tell me where it is located. I read something about on top of the transmission and something about the bell housing, but although I know where the transmission is, that guidance doesn't help me. A pic would be great. Thanks in advance.

My 2004 XC90 has about 80K Miles... it's about time for a timing belt change. Does anyone know where I can find the instructions? I just did my 2002 C70 HPT Convertible with no problem... Wanted to find out if there are any nuances with the XC90...

Thanks

105K miles, developing a groaning noise when turning steering wheel during low speeds and stopped. Can feel slightly through steering column. No other problems, no clunking or any grinding noises, just "groaning" sound on initial movement. Fluid is full. While searching fix, I found this article on the C70 model, sounds like I might have same thing on my XC90. Has anyone experienced same and found fix. Thanks for the help.

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_...ring_lube.html

Hi Volvo lovers,

I am a new Volvo XC90 owner/fan.

The issue is my lovely 2006 XC90 2.5T started to show the bizarre 'No Oil Pressure. Stop Engine.' dash board message red color.

First things I checked right after seeing that message.
Engine oil level - FINE (actually full).
Engine oil - CLEAN and recently replaced.

I drove 100 miles and the weather was peaceful 40f degrees (5c). The sign would come and off intermittently and stayed there for some time. We were luckily at the destination so we stopped the car and did our biz.

After a couple of hours we started the engine, drove a car, came back home driving 100 miles back without an issue.

But after a day, actually today, I saw the same message again. It was intermittently again and then would stay. If I restart the engine the message would go away but then would come back after sometime of driving.



So I called a couple of normal non-Volvo repair shops and they didn't know what the issue is and didn't even know why I would check the engine pressure. So OK pass.

I called Volvo dealer and he said if it is a 'low engine oil' message you can just top it up but if it is a 'engine pressure' message then the issue can be huge so he advised to tow the car in.

But I read Volvo dealers are notorious about 'making issues bigger' and have customers fix/pay. So I am not sure what to do right now.

People on Forums are saying to get oil pressure checked and then check old O-rings next.

Is there anyone actually experienced this and got this fixed?

Please advise what to do or/and what would be the cure.

Thx a lot in advance,
flatlander84

I have a 2003 Volvo XC90 that turns over but will not start. The fuel pump has been replaced twice, once by the car lot I purchased the vehicle from - the car worked for maybe a week and the problem returned, and the second time by the Volvo dealership - again the car worked initially, maybe another week and the problem returned. I'm not even sure if it is the fuel pump, but after two fuel pumps, I'm thinking that the issue may be something else. I'm not sure if Volvo Dealership ran a full diagnostic or not, because they replaced the fuel pump because of the recall. Each time the car was "fixed" the car would start maybe after 3 seconds of cranking (which is long compared to my other cars that catch immediately) but on subsequent starts the 3 turns into 10 seconds, 15 seconds or so the next time, until eventually it just does not catch and I drain the battery in attempting to. It has actually been "fixed" three times, but the second time a fuse was replaced, and it worked, and deteriorated exactly the same way as the other times until it no longer started again. I'm hoping that the nature of how it begins failing can be of some assistance, I feel as if some type of pressure or something is being lost over time, the way it takes longer and longer to start before it decides not to. I have no clue where to even begin to resolve this issue and any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hi I have just replaced the rear discs and pads on a 2008 XC90 which has solved the problem I had with them. However, the parking brake is not working. When the old discs came off they did so easily without any resistance and the new ones went on just as easily so as far as I can tell the parking brakes weren't disturbed. The parking brake did come on after 3-5 clicks before this work was completed and now they are not operating after 8 clicks so am at a loss to understand this problem-any advice would be most grateful, Fred

I do not have a Volvo of my own, though I certainly wish I did, but I'm here to find out what I need for helping my sister with her XC90. From what I remember, it's an 04 T6, but I'm not entirely sure. She told me the turbo is cracked and needs replacing. I'm trying to save her some money and trying to do this myself. I've never had a turbo before, so I've never worked with one.

Does anyone know how to replace the bulb or light which lights the xc90 ignition keyhole?

Any hints, or manual pages how to do that are appreciated... and what type of bulb is required?

Greetings all

Hope someone can help/advise/guide:

I have a 56 plate D5 XC90.
Took it for service to a Volvo specialist - used them in the past and always appeared trustworthy.
An oil leak was identified - sump seal (am not too mechanically minded but it's where the bottom 3rd part of the engine connect with the middle part).
Was told that it can be fixed but it will be quite expensive as the engine would need to be taken out! After much deliberating and counting the pennies - I really didn't have much of a choice anyway... I gave the go ahead for the repair - £1000!!!!


They kept it for 3 days and I collected it on the 4th. Had to collect it 8am and run off to work (to try and earn a bit more for the £1000 down the drain)...
The car was feeling better driving it (had full service, new timing belt and water pump, new tyres...) but I opened the window for some fresh air and heard a strange "air escaping" sound as I was accelerating. I thought I'll get to the office first then have a look. Got there and opened the bonet - couldn't see anything obvious but what I noticed straight away was the oil leak! And it looked as if some sort of treatment was applied externally to fix this!! Phoned the garage and they were insisting that the engine was taken out and as far as they knew the oil leak was fixed! Said bring it back and we'll have a look - nothing that can't be sorted. But that proved not to be the case!! After keeping the car for another 4 days - I get a call saying that they can't fix it!! They've done everything possible and contacted Volvo and engine out again but still can't fix it! IT'S A POROUS ENGINE!!! I asked them to put this in writing, which they did after chasing them a few times and I said that I will only collect the car after they put this in writing!
1. As much as I (used to) trust this garage - I don't think they did what they said (engine out and all the rest)
2. I still have the same problem and my fear is that they might have made matters worse - I guess only time will tell

The garage said that Volvo should cover replacement of engine as it's faulty materials used!!!!
Before I start any talks with my back for recovering monies or involving trading standards and so on...

Has anyone ever heard of a POROUS engine?
Anyone been in a similar situation before and how did you deal with it?

Any advice/assistance would be much appreciated.

Oh - and if anyone has a petrol model (2.5 or the 3.2) am willing to exchange :-)

Apologies for the probably long story and thank you in advance

P.S. forgot to mention - the "air escaping" was identified as turbo pipe seal and was fixed

Hello all. I have a 2004 XC90 with P235/16 R18 tires. We purchased what I was told were replacement tires and brought them from USA to Libreville, Gabon (West Africa) where we live. Unloaded the boat, took the wrapped up tires to the local shop and it turns out the tires we bought in USA were P235/65 R17. The shop says it's not possible to put on an R17 where an R18 is....wonderful.

I know the "R" number is a measure of the hole of the tire or the wheel diameter, but does that means there is NO way these new tires will fit? It is a lost cause with the R17's without changing the wheel itself? Thanks.

Sad in Gabon!

03 xc90 with 83k miles.

Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.

I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.

Does anyone remember which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.

thanks

Lost coolant after dealer replaced a new fuel pump.

Before I start car, the level of coolant is Max and tank cap is tight. Driving back home and stop engine, the coolant level is still Max. Second day, coolant is lost and tank cap is a little loose. No more coolant loss if leaving it at home without driving. If I topped up the tank, after two days driving, coolant level is lower than MIN.

I did not find any leaks, like fuel tank and passenger's side floor.

Is it possible that tank cap causes this coolant loss?

Thanks for your comments.

Hello

I recently brought a 2010 XC90 from the UK to New Zealand.
This model has the Volvo HDD VNS (Melco) SatNav system.
Have purchased the latest genuine Volvo DVD Map update for 'Pacific Region' (Australia 17.0 and New Zealand 6.0 maps). Part 31337070 AA 1109
Have loaded DVD and followed normal map updating instructions but unfortunately it would seem this is not compatible with the system software. I get an error message asking for Disc 1 and saying this map disc is invalid. It appears to be reading the disc ok as it ran through the 'program update' in progress part and the original UK disc still reads.
The map discs for Pacific are produced by Sensis rather than Navteq. However this is just the maps themselves.
Presumably to run these there needs to be a HDD / systems type of upgrade or settings change done first? Surfing the net sugests this is perhaps what the 'Disc 1' is all about. I dont see these 'systems' discs sold anywhere though in the way the map discs are available
Dealer here is unsure what to do - does anyone have any idea of the potential process to change so we can run Pacific Region maps?

Many thanks

We've got a 2008 XC90witha rear entertainment system. The DVD player works fine, but the sound for movies is crackly -like there's a loose connection somewhere. The stereo itself plays fine, no sound issues, CD, aux in and radio all work perfectly, but the DVD player crackles (not distortion). Can anyone recommend a fix? Pull the center console out and look for loose wires? We have a kid and we'd like to play movies for trips, but the sound is driving me crazy and she's to young for headphones.

Anyone?

Naltimar

Dear all, I wonder if you can help me?

We have an XC90. I am in the UK. It cost us just over £50,000 and is now out of warranty although only just as Volvo extended the warranty for the faulty gearbox I am told. Like so many people have said here we bought it as a solid investment car - pay a lot to start with but get "Volvo" reliability - so I was surprised when the gearbox suddenly died at around 55,000 miles. The AA rescue service diagnosed the fault from about 50 yards away "Its a T6 XC90 - it will be the gearbox" and the main Volvo dealer have confirmed that its in need of a new one costing just over £4700 all inc. after discounts. Volvo have offered a good will gesture of 30%.

In the UK this falls under something called "The Goods and Services Act". Goods have to be "fit for purpose". Like nearly everyone the fault has shown itself out of warranty between 50k and 60k. My thoughts are that Volvo knew that this would be the case, based on other failures before ours. They knew, while the car was under warranty, that it was not fit for purpose but chose not to recall the fault because it would damage their reputation (as has been an issue with Toyota in the UK). Quite rightly, if they had made it known that there was a faulty gear box that would suddenly fail putting my family in danger as it did - I would not have bought the vehicle, so I understand their reasoning.
The many hundreds of reports I have found on the internet are not enough. I need to be able to present a case with "witness statements" and I would be grateful if those people who have experienced an XC90 T6 with transmission failure (only this specific fault) would send me a witness statement explaining who they are (Name and Address), what vehicle it was (i.e. XC90 T6), the year of manufacture and the mileage at which the fault came to light. The letter must be signed for it to carry any weight with the UK court - that's just how it is. If you are able to also send any supporting document (like a letter / invoice / bill from Volvo confirming the fault) then that would be helpful. In the UK there is a second action available in Negligence insomuch as it can be argued that Volvo were negligent in not recalling a product that they knew to be faulty. the fault is such that it can potentially cause danger (sudden and catastrophic loss of power while driving). In that circumstance it may be possible to backdate a claim over the previous six years and recover costs already incurred.

I do not know if its possible to find out how many XC90s have the fault or what percentage is affected or whether any technical information regarding the fault (expert assessment reports, details of the part number) and so on may be available - help in that regard would very much be appreciated also.

Finally, if there is anyone technically minded out there who knows how to get this message to a wider XC90 audience then I would be grateful. Its really upsetting that Volvo have chosen to manage the problem like this. My view is that the decision to not recall a design fault of this magnitude is fundamentally wrong and potentially unsafe.

I have set up an email address XC90@yipes.co.uk and would very much appreciate your help as I have described above.

Hi,


Planning to buy a mechanical oil pressure gauge to test it myself.
As I understood it is just to unbolt the bolt, plug the gauge in, read the gauge when engine is at operating temp.

Does anyone know where is the plug / any picture or blueprint would be much appreciated.


Thx in advance!!

RE: 2007 Volvo XC90 90k miles

Pulled into my driveway last night with the power steering working intermittently for last 5 minute leg of my trip. Woke up this morning with no power steering and sqealing noise coming from engine.

No fluid leak on driveway. Drove to dealer with no power steering. Very hard to turn wheel - even while moving.

Dealer checked and said it was not a fluid issue and that they thought a screw might have fallen out and needed to take apart the rear of the engine (a 5-6 hour job) just to diagnose the problem.

A screw from the steering column in the rear engine?

Thoughts?

hi my fuel filter housing has cracked and i need to replace it. i have been told by volvo that i need to have it programed is this true or not ???

Does anyone know where I can get a workshop / repair manual for the 2004 T6 AWD XC90, I dont mind paying for it as long as it has all the info

How can you tell if your XC90 has rain sensing windshield?

Hello to all...new to the forum and new Volvo owner. Just bought a 08' xc90 3.2l AWD on Monday, today, two days later, it is going in the shop for a noise when you shift into gear or as you accelerate, or come to a close stop, but not while your driving. It is a "certified" one from Annapolis Volvo and they don't seem to think it is a major issue and is safe to drive till they repair it. Any idea on what it could be? I know this may be dangerous to even post this type of question as I may just worry myself more but need to have some type of idea of what it could be and if it is going to be a long few years. Any help would be appreciated

My stereo died the other day. When I turn it off and on I get the Premium Sound splash screen then it goes either bright green or dull green and there is no sound from any source. The menus work and the bluetooth phone sound comes through the speakers but no music. I did a quick search and it all points to a bad ICM. I took it to a local dealer who ran the diagnostics and said the AMP was bad and needed to be replaced. What I find strange is, AMPs just amplify sound. The ICM is not producing any sound. The USB feature doesnt show anything is playing, I can't load a CD and when I press the AM/FM button nothing happens. I have a feeling they will be replacing the AMP only to turn around and have to order an ICM and have me wait another week.

Any thoughts or experience on this?

Hi I just sold my Volvo S40 2006 great car. I have bought a 2004 XC90 2.5T, which I love so far.

Am wondering what the cost is to replace the windshield, as I want to replace it?

thanks

Hello all, newbie here. I have scoured the forums for an answer to my question and in doing so I see I am not alone in my problems.

Background: 2013 XC90 with 2500miles experienced the electrical system shutdown while driving. Took car to German dealership (American living in Germany and bought American spec vehicle from American dealer that "only sells, does not repair") and they had vehicle two weeks and replaced CEM. This failure was after two previous attempts of keyless entry not working (not battery, both would not work) and the alarm would go off after entering car manually.

Issue/question:
I got in my vehicle and reset the seat manually to how I wanted the seat to be positioned. Then I press power on the radio and it instantly connected via bluetooth to my phone and started playing music. I thought that was a little weird, but was more concerned at paying attention as to how the vehicle was driving. After giving it more thought the next day I tried a few more things. I pressed the memory 1 button and the seat adjusted to how I had it set before the shop visit and I tested the radio stations and they were all of my favorites I had preprogrammed before.

I guess my question is.....does replacing the CEM not reset everything in the vehicle? I am just really concerned the work was not done or they just did some "software updates" not really replacing anything.

Thanks!!

Hi everyone, I am looking at a used xc90 with the 2.5. 76K miles. Anything in particular I should be aware of or keep an eye out for? I have heard of transmission issues, is this limited to one of the models or widespread? Anything else?

Hi Where can i buy tool 9997109 in Australia.

After several days of rain I found that the drivers side carpet is soaked. Upon further investigation I realized it was coming from underneath the car rather than from the side. I was able to put my hand under the carpet and feel the metal body underneath. It was soaked. I have never had this problem before and have not been in an accident. The car drives very well and has 130 miles. I recently replaced the transmission and was hoping to have this for a few more years. Can anyone help me with this? I don't have alot of $$$ to spend on this!

I have had my 2004 xc 90 since 2005 and have loved it. It got us out of many a snowy jam up here in Canada. Last year we had a mild winter and I thought a couple of times that my traction was poor but racked it up to neglecting to put my snow tires on. This year we have had a couple of snow storms and the vehicle performs terriblly despite snow tires.I can't make it up hills, that 2 wd pick up trucks cruise up and traction in general is extremely poor I took into the dealership who confirmed that a computer module controlling the 4 wd has failed and cost would be in the 3500 to 4500$ range to fix it. I'm reluctant to have it fixed since it is now 9 years old and has about 130000 miles on it. A number of other issues unrelated to the transmission were also found during the diagnostic tests. My question is whether the vehicle is safe- I can't imagine that the FWD xc90 handles this poorly in the snow so could the module be causing other issues that are effecting safety or is my AWD volvo now simply a FWD xc 90?
It's disconcerting in that I was completely unaware of any defect with the AWD, no warning light etc, until it became obvious during driving: a major safety problem to say the least.

I have a 2004 XC90. I am missing a plastic cap from the front passenger side roof rack. This is the factory roof rack/rail...not an accessory rack I bought. See the attached photo of the roof rail with the missing cap. Can anyone point me to an online store where I can buy a replacement? There's no Volvo dealer in the country where I live...


[attachment=10311:roof.jpg]

So, I am in the market for an XC90 and wanted to know your take on at used 2008 v6 with approx. miles of 55k. They are asking 19.5k (before negotiation) from an actual volvo dealer. So, anything i should be aware of or look for when i test drive it on Saturday etc etc etc? I certainly appreciate any/all help you guys/gals provide.

On a separate but equally important note, what price should I go in there with? What I mean is, I am prepared to spend $20k cash (out the door) so how far down should I try to get the price? I ask, bc I have never negotiated a used care before, I only leased new ones.

Thanks in advance.

Just purchased a 2010 XC 90 with the dual dvd's in the headrest, how do I get the audio to play through the car speakers?

The audio is working properly with the wireless headphones, but I can't figure out how to make it play through the car audio speakers.

Thanks